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THE  tIBSARV   OF 


DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  AND 
GARMENT  DYER. 


THE  PRACTICAL 

MY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  AND 
GARMENT  DYER: 


COMPRISING 
DRY  OR  CHEMICAL  CLEANING;   PURIFICATION  OF  BENZINE;   REMOVING 

STAINS;  WET  CLEANING;  FINISHING  CLEANED  FABRICS;  CLEANING 

AND   DYEING  FURS,  SKIN    RUGS   AND   MATS;    CLEANING  AND 

DYEING    FEATHERS;    BLEACHING  AND   DYEING   STRAW 

HATS;  CLEANING  AND  DYEING  GLOVES;  GARMENT 

DYEING;    STRIPPING;    ANALYSIS   OF 

TEXTILE    FABRICS. 


EDITED    BY 

WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 

EDITOR  OF  "THE  TECHNO-CHEslrCAL  RECEIPT  BOOK." 

SECOND  EDITION,  IN  GREAT  PART  RE-WRITTEN  AND  MUCH  ENLARGED. 

ILLUSTRATED  BY  TWENTY-ONE   ENGRAVINGS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 
HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO. 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHERS,  BOOKSELLERS,  AND  IMPORTERS 

810  WALNUT  STREET 

1907 


COPYRIGHT,  BY 
HENEY  CAKEY  BAIRD  &  CO. 

1907 


/  r 


PREFACE  TO  THE  SECOND  EDITION. 


IN  preparing  this  edition  of  THE  PRACTICAL 
SCOURER  AND  GARMENT  DYER,  the  original  scope 
of  the  work,  which  is  that  of  a  handbook  on  the 
processes  employed  by  the  Cleaning  and  Dyeing 
Trades,  has  been  adhered  to,  and  the  text  on  which 
the  book  is  now  based  is  expressed  in  the  title 
THE  PRACTICAL  DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER  AND 
GARMENT  DYER.  It  may,  however,  be  well  to  point 
out  that  in  this  edition  the  subject  of  Dry  Cleaning 
has  been  treated  with  greater  amplitude  than  in  the 
old  one,  and  that  the  section  Cleaning  and  Dyeing 
Furs,  Skin  Rugs  and  Mats  here  given,  appears  now 
for  the  first  time. 

It  has  been  endeavored  to  bring  the  matter  of  the 
work  to  the  level  of  the  latest  developments,  which 
necessitated  the  rewriting  to  a  great  extent  of  every 
section,  so  as  to  bring  the  book  up  to  date,  and 
render  it  serviceable  as  a  reference  and  guide  to  the 
processes  and  improvements  which  have  from  time 
to  time  been  introduced,  and  practically  applied 
either  at  home  or  abroad. 

The  aim  has  been  to  describe  clearly  and  in  detail 
the  various  operations,  and  to  give  reliable  receipts 
for  the  removal  of  stains,  as  well  as  for  the  bleaching 
and  dyeing  of  various  fabrics,  v\hich  will  yield  the 


VI  PREFACE  TO   THE   SECOND   EDITION. 

results  indicated.  In  doing  this  numerous  foreign 
and  domestic  books  and  journals  bearing  on  the 
various  subjects  have  been  consulted  and  drawn  on. 

Still,  knowing  the  difficulties  that  present  them- 
selves in  the  application  of  receipts  in  practical 
working,  due  to  differences  in  the  mode  of  manipu- 
lation, as  well  as  to  differences  which  exist  between 
the  various  samples  of  what  are,  nominally,  the  same 
materials,  satisfactory  results  may  not  always  in  the 
first  instance  be  obtained.  Nevertheless  the  receipt 
should  not  be  condemned,  but  another  trial  should 
be  made  which,  with  the  exercise  of  a  little  care  in 
working,  will  ensure  success. 

The  Table  of  Contents  and  the  Index  have  both 
been  carefully  prepared,  and  being  very  full,  will 
make  reference  to  any  subject  in  the  volume  easy 
and  satisfactory. 

WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT. 

PHILADELPHIA,  September  ij,  1907. 


CONTENTS. 


i. 

DRY  OR  CHEMICAL  CLEANING. 

PACK 

Discovery,  in  1866,  by  M.  Judlin,  of  the  detergent  powers  of  ben- 
zine: Reasons  for  the  success  of  dry  cleaning;  Betterment  of 

social  conditions  by  chemical  cleaning I 

Value  of  chemical  cleaning  for  certain  purposes;  Origin  of  the 
phrase  "dry  cleaning;"  Real  definition  of  dry  or  chemical 

cleaning 2 

Solvents  which  may  be  used  in  dry  cleaning;  Constitution  of  many 
stains  in  garments;  Advantages  of  dry  cleaning  over  the  older 

methods 3 

Benzine  and   its  properties;    Benzine  as  a  solvent  for  oils  and 

greases;   Mttbod  for  testing  benzine 4 

Chemical  nature  of  benzine;  Addition  of  soap  to  benzine  to  in- 
crease its  cleaning  power 5 

Dr.  M.  Richtcr's  discovery  of  antibenzirpyrine;  Classification  of 
oleates  soluble  in  benzine;  Power  of  the  acid  oleates  to  absorb 

waier 6 

Solubility  of  benzine  soaps;  Cause  of  the  decomposition  of  ben- 
zine soaps;  Preparation  of  antibenzinpyrine 7 

Benzul  or  benzine  and  its  properties 8 

Method  of  distinguishing  benzine  from  benzol;  Turpentine  and 

mode  of  obtaining  it 9 

Properties  and  varieties  of  turpentine 10 

Carbon  tetrachloride  or  tetracbloromenthane,  and  its  properties.,      n 
Advantages  of  the  use  of  carbon  tetrachloride  over  that  of  benzine.     12 

Storage  of  carbon  tetrachloride. 13 

Dangers  of  benzine  and  other  sojvents  in  dry  cleaning;  Pre- 
cautions to  be  used 14 

Conditions  under  which  combustion  and  explosion  can  take  place; 
Danger  of  using  benzine  or  gasoline  in  ordinary  dwelling 
houses;  Necessity  of  covering  all  vessels  containing  inflam- 
mable liquids 15 

(Vii) 


viii  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Indication  of  spontaneous  ignition;  Means  of  lessening  the  risk 
of  fire  and  explosion  and  provision  for  rr.inimizing  these  effects; 

Ammonia  as  a  fire  extinguishing  agent 16 

Cause  of  ignition  by  electric  sparks;  Dr.  W.  Richter's  observa- 
tions on  spontaneous  firing;  Regulations  regarding  dry-cleaning 

establishments  in  Paris 17 

Increasing  the  content  of  moisture  in  the  air  as  a  means  to  de- 
crease danger  from  fire;  Prevention  of  ignition  by  electric 
sparks  by  the  addition  of  soap  to  the  benzine;  Quantity  of  soap 

required  for  that  purpose 18 

The  cleaning  process;   Goods  suitable  for  the  dry  process;   Goods 

less  suitable  and  not  suitable  for  dry  cleaning 19 

Means  of  removing  dust  from  garments;   Preparation  of  articles 

for  dry  cleaning 20 

Necessity  of  th<  roughly  drying  the  garments  previous  to  cleaning; 

Mode  of  freeing  benzine  from  moisture : 21 

Process  of  dry  cleaning  suitable  lor  s  nailer  establishments;  Ves- 
sels used  for  the  purpose;  Making  a  tampion  22 

Draining  and  drying  the  articles 23 

Apparatus  for  draining  the  articles;   Washing  silk  articles 24 

Machines  requited  for  working  on  a  larger  scale;  Benzine  wash- 
ing machines;  Power-driven  washing  machine,  described  and 

illustrated 25 

Cylinder  or  cage  of  the  machine,  described  and  illustrated 26 

Washing   machine    for   hand    power,   illustrated;     Washing    the 

articles 27 

Cincinnati  hand  extractor,  described  and  illustrated 28 

Table  for  brushing  garments,  described  and  illustrated;   Heating 

the  evaporating  mom 79 

Cleaning  white  woolen  and  silk  goods,  and  white  goods 30 

Cleaning  colored  silks 31 

Cleaning  and  renovating  real  velvet  goods 32 

Steaming  velvet  goods 33 

Restoring  lustre  to  articles  which  may  have  become  dull;  Velvet- 
steamers  34 

Method  of  steaming  velvet;  Chemical  cleaning  of  carpets;  Re- 
storing the  dressing  on  the  back  of  a  rug 35 

Purification  of  benzine;   Filtering,  and  apparatus  for  this  purpose.     36 
Purification  of  benzine  with  sulphuric  acid '* 37 


CONTENTS.  ix 

PACE 

Hasselbach's   method    of  clarifying   benzine;     Deodorization   of 

benzine 38 

Purification  of  benzine   by  distillation;    Superiority  of   distilled 

benzine 39 

Steam  generators;   Precautions  in  purifying  benzine  by  distilling.  40 

Practical  benzine  distiller,  described  and  illustrated    41 

Improved  benzine  still,  described  and  illustrated 42 

Putification  of  benzine  previous  to  distillation;  Apparatus  for  dis- 
tilling benzine  thus  purified,  described  and  illustrated 43 

II. 

REMOVING  STAINS. 

On  what  the  process  of  removing  stains  depends;  Necessity  of 
ascertaining  the  cause  of  the  stain 47 

Tools  required  for  the  removal  of  stains;  Removal  of  stains  from 
white  goods 48 

Use  of  water  for  the  removal  of  stains;  Chief  cleaning  agents 
used;  Ether,  and  its  properties 49 

Mode  of  testing  ether;  Chloroform  and  its  properties,  and  mode 
of  testing  it 50 

Alcohol,  and  its  properties;    Ammonia,  and  its  properties 51 

Benzme;   Carbon  letrachloiide;   Acetic  acid,  and  its  properties  ..     52 

Fusel  oil;  Glycerine,  and  its  properties:   Borax,  and  i's  properties.     53 

Adulteration  of  borax;   Hyposulphite  of  sodium,  and  its  properties.     54 

Stannous  chloride  or  tin  salt,  and  its  properties;  Chloride  of  lime, 
and  its  properties;  Preparation  of  eau  de  Javelle 55 

Various  bleaching  fluids;  Chlorine  water;  Tartaric  acid,  and  its 
properties;  Citric  acid,  and  its  properties 56 

Oxalic  acid,  and  its  properties;  Acid  oxalate  or  binoxalate  of 
potassium,  or  salt  of  sorrel;  Hydrochloric  acid;  Ox -gall,  and 
mode  of  purifying  it 57 

Treatment  of  stains  in  dust  coats,  morning  dresses,  rain  coa's,  etc.; 
Removal  of  stains  in  velvet  and  plush;  Scouring  water,  and  its 
preparation  58 

Operation  of  removing  stains;  Auxiliary  agents  for  the  rapid 
absorption  of  water 59 

Scouring  water  for  the  removal  of  stains  which  have  not  been  dis- 
solved in  dry  cleaning;  Soap  for  the  removal  of  wine  and 
vinegar  stains 60 


X  CONTENTS. 

Soap  fOI  tke  removal  of  all  kinds  of  stains;  Soap  for  the  removal 
of  stains  from  silk;  Preservation  of  ox-gall;  Soap  for  silk  tis- 
sues   61 

Soap  for  the  removal  of  stains  from  calico;  Scourirg  fluids; 
Scouring  fluid  for  all  kinds  of  stains,  the  derivation  of  which 
cannot  be  ascertained;  English  scouring  fluid;  Scouring  pen- 
cils 62 

Schwemmer's  scouring  fluid;  Removal  of  dust  stains,  and  of  stains 
of  unknown  derivation 63 

Preparation  for  cleaning  woolen  goods;  Treatment  of  silk,  satin, 
etc. :  Removal  of  grease  stains 64 

P.enzinized  magnesia;   Gelatinized  benzine 65 

Etherized  magnesia 66 

"Water  stains"  due  to  milk,  soup,  beer,  etc.;  Mode  of  cleaning 
a  coat;  Treatment  of  very  old  grease  stains 67 

Removal  of  paint  and  varnish  stains,  stains  of  resin,  tar,  or  wagon 
grease 68 

Removal  of  stearin  and  wax  stairs,  and  of  fruit  stains 69 

Remnval  of  stains  of  red  wine,  cheriies,  whortleberries,  etc.,  and 
of  milk  and  coffee  stains 70 

Removal  of  soup  stains,  as  well  as  smaller  grease  stains  in  general; 
Removal  of  stains  of  beer,  wine,  punch,  sugar,  gelatine,  glue, 
etc.;  Removal  of  grass  stains,  and  stains  from  green  nuts,  as 
well  as  so-called  tannin  stains 72 

Removal  of  acid  stains,  nitric  acid  stains,  stains  of  wine-vinegar, 
sour  wine,  etc.,  and  of  lye  and  lime  stains,  urine  stains,  and 
perspiration  stains 73 

Removal  of  greasy  shine  of  men's  worn  worsted  or  cheviot  gar- 
ments; Removal  of  nitrate  of  silver  stains,  aniline  color  stains, 
ink  stains 75 

Removal  of  iron  and  rust  stains 78 

Table  showing  the  best  means  of  cleaning  all  kinds  of  fabrics  from 
any  stain  79 

Directions  for  removing  stains  which  apply  especially  to  the  gar- 
ment d)  er 80 


CONTENTS.  XI 

PAGE 
III. 

WET  CLEANING. 

Water;     Importance  of  pure  and   soft   water  in  wet  cleaning; 
Clarifying  turbid  water;   Dangers  in  using  hard  water  and  water 

containing  iron 83 

Purification  and  testing  of  water;   Sirrple  method  of  testing  water 
as  to  its  softness;   Determination  of  the  presence  of  gypsum, 

chlorine  combinations,  ammonia,  and  nitric  acid 84 

Testing  water  for  lime;  Transient  and  permanent  hardness  of 

water;   Detection  of  iron  in  water 85 

Softening  of  hard  water;    Purification  of  water  in  which  gypsum 
predominates;  Testing  the  purified  water;   Purification  of  water 

containing  iron 86 

Wet  washing  of  men's  garments;   Sorting  the  garments  and  pre- 
paring them  for  washing 87 

Washing  dark  garments;   Souring 88 

Washing  cloaks,  ht  avy  overcoats,  and  gray  uniform  cloaks 89 

Washing  men's  dark  clothes  with  quillaia  bark 90 

Mode  of  extracting  quillaia  bark 91 

Removal  of  stains  before  washing,  and  a  mixture  for  this  purpose; 

Washing  ladies'  garments 92 

Testing  light-colored   cotton  garments  as  to  whether  they  will 
stand  wet  washing:   Treatment  of  cotton  garments  which  will 

not  stand  washir  g  with  soap 93 

Mode  of  preventing  colois  from  running:    Washing  corsets 94 

Washing  ladies'  half-wool  and  wool  garments 95 

Washing  raw  silk  garments,  and  lustre  and  barege  garments 96 

Washing  garments  trimmed  with  black  velvet;   Wet  washing  white 

wool  and  white  silk  fabrics 97 

Construction  of  a  bleaching  chamber 98 

Removal  of  sulphur  stains;    Bleaching  with  potassium  permanga- 
nate and  sulphurous  acid 99 

Bleaching  white  wool  or  silk  articles  with  peroxides;   Bleaching 
wiih   hydrogen    peroxide;    Bleaching  white  woolen  blankets, 

garments,  etc ico 

Preservatives  for  hydrogen  peroxide;   Bleaching  with  sodium  per- 
oxide  f IO2 

Bleaching  of  jute 104 

Washing  light-colored  wool  and  silk  articles 105 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

PACK 

Washing  white  woolen  undergarments;   Cleaning  white  cloth  caps 

and  felt  hats;    Washing  white  woolen  knit  or  woven  articles. ..  106 
Washing  white  silk   handkerchiefs,  white  silk  stockings,  colored 
silk  cloths;   Washing  silk  gloves;    Cleaning  colored  silk  gloves; 

Cleaning  6ne  colored  embroideries 107 

Preparation  of  eau  de  Javelle 108 

Preventing  colors  from  running;   Washing  of   small  table-covers 

with  colored  embroideiy 109 

Washing  ladies'  scarf ^  with  variegated  colors,  antimacassars,  cush- 
ion covers,  etc no 

Safeguards  against  bleeding  of  colors 112 

Washing  laces,  blonde  laces,  embroideries  on    linen;    Cleaning 

real  laces 113 

Appliance  for  washing  laces,  described  and  illustrated 114 

\Yashingcurtains 115 

Treatment  of  cream-colored  curtains;  Reviving  the  colors  of  cur- 
tains; Washing  curtains  in  the  machine 116 

Washing  colored  curtains;    Washing  veils  .    117 

Washing  silk  and  silver  laces 1 1 8 

Washing  gold  laces;   Cleaning  gold  and  silver  galloons 119 

Cleaning  paras  Is. 1 20 

Washing  carpets 122 

IV. 
FINISHING  CLEANED  FABRICS. 

Importance  of  thorough  finishing;  Best  means  cf  removing  water 
from  wet  textile  fabrics i  25 

Hydro-extractors;  Finishing  white  and  colored  woolen  shawls, 
fichus,  etc 126 

Finishing  white  and  colored  silk  shawls,  etc.;  Finishing  laces, 
embroideries,  etc 127 

Imparting  a  soft,  velvety  feel  to  plush  and  similar  articles;  Giving 
black  silk  laces,  etc.,  a  good  lustre;  Dressing  for  white  em- 
broideries; Finishing  curtains 128 

Finishing  plush  draperies;  Finishing  men's  garments;  Steam- 
boards  and  their  construction,  described  and  illustrated 129 

Steam-table,  described  and  illustrated 131 

Directions  for  pressing  men's  garments;    Pressing  a  man's  coat.  ••    132 


CONTENTS.  xiii 

PAGE 

Pressing  pantaloons  and  waistcoat*;   Finishing  ladies'  garments..    133 

Dressing  for  men's  and  ladies'  summer  garments 134 

Dn,  ing  cylinder  and  drying  table,  illustrated;   Steam  heated  puff 

irons,  described  and  illustrated 135 

Dressings  for  garment  dyers  and  laundrymen;   Dressing  for  light 

woolens 1 36 

Dressing  for  silk;   Dressings  for  cotton  and  linen;   Formulas  for 

the  preparation  of  gloss  starch 137 

Elastic  gloss  starch;   Cream  gloss;    Water-proofing  fabrics,  and 

formulas  for  this  purpose 138 

Waterproof  finish 139 

Fire-proofing  fabrics;   Nicoll's  fire-proof  dressing;    Martin's  fire- 
proof dressing 140 

V. 

CLEANING  AND  DYEING  FURS,  SKIN  RUGS  AND  MATS. 
Cleaning;   Examination  of  the  articles  and  removing  dust  from 

them;    Furs  to  be  washed  in  benzine 141 

Wet-cleaning  of  very  dirtv  furs  and  skins 142 

Restoring  the  skins  after  washing   143 

Furs  which  cannot  stand  wet-cleaning;  Trealment  of  skins  cleaned 

with  benzine 144 

Process  of  softening  hard  and  verv  dirty  skins;    Washing  ladies' 

and  gentlemen's  fur  collars;    Washing  sheep-skins 145 

Bleaching  white  skins;   Bleaching  with  potassium  permanganate.    146 

Bleaching  with  sodium  peroxide;  Removing  water  from  the  skin   147 
Washing  very  much  tendered  skins;   Dyeing;   Precaution  to  be 

taken  in  order  to  get  ths  original  color 148 

Modes  of  dyeing  gray,  browns,  and  blacks;   UseofUrsols 149 

Drawbacks  of  the  Ursols 150 

Black  on  skins 151 

Tipping  furs  with  black;   Brown  on  skins;   Very  dark-brown. ...    152 
Medium  to  dark-brown;  Red-brown;   Chestnut  on  skins;   Russet 

on  skins      153 

Golden  on  skins;   Silver-gray  on  skins:   Scarlet  on  skins;   Orange 

on  skins:    Bright  green  on    skins;    Maroon  on  skins;    Drying 

cleaned  and  dyed  skins 154 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

VI. 
CLEANING  AND  DYEING  FEATHERS. 

Cleaning;   Brightening  blacks,  browns  and  ordinary  dark  colors; 

Purifying  feathers  chemically 155 

Dressing  of  feathers;   Re-whitening  natural  white  feathers 156 

Bleaching  feathers;   Dyeing 157 

Utensils  used  in  dyeing;   Use  of  mordants 158 

Modes  of  adding  coloring  matter  to  the  dye  bath 160 

Treatment  of  portions  of  birds;   Dyeing  ostrich  feathers;   Clean- 
ing large  feathers 161 

Feathers  in  bulk ;   Decolorizing 162 

Freeing  from  grease 1 63 

Removing  natural  brown  spots  and  points  from  white  feathers. ..  164 

Dyeing  ostrich  feathers  black 165 

Dyeing  ostrich  feathers  bronze;   Green 167 

Olive;   Gold;   Other  colors  including  fashionable  colors;   Cream, 

ivory;   Rose;   Salmon;  Maize,  bamboo iC8 

Pale  blue;    Butter,   bouton  d'or,  mandarin,  coq  roche;    Parme, 

heliotrope,  prune;   Geld,  old  gold 169 

Gray;  Coquilicot,  cardinal;  Garnet;    Beige,  tobacco,  Siam,  and 
intervening   shades;    Chartreuse — pale   yellow;    Cresson — dull 

yellow  green   1 70 

Olive;    Vesuve,   Etna — dull,   fiery  tones;   Vieux-rose;    Navy,  ad- 
miral;   Russe 171 

Gray-blua  colors;    Green-blue  colors;    Maroon,  loutre;    Om^re 

(shaded)  tricolored   171 

The  shading  box  and  its  construction 173 

Borde  (bordered  feathers) ;   Light  mirror,  dark  border     174 

Dark  mirror,  light  border   1 75 

Dyeing  fancy  feathers;   Cleaning;   Definition  of  fancy  feathers; 

Washing  fancy  feathers 177 

Decolorizing 178 

Freeing  from  fat;   Treatment  of  white  feathers 1 79 

Dyeing  black ;   Chicken  feathers;   Mordanting 180 

Dyeing 181 

Treatment  with  chlorine;   Turkey  feathers 182 

Pigeon  feathers;   Goose  and  duck  feathers;   Peacock  feathers  ...  183 
Parrot  feathers;    Skins  of  kingfishers  and  magpies;    All  other 


CONTENTS.  XV 

PACK 

kinds  of  birds'  wings,  skins,  heads  and  tails;    Bronze-green, 

olive,  gold;   Other  colors  including  mode  colors;   Ombr6 184 

Changeant;   Drying  of  feathers 185 

Drying  frame;   Drying  drum 186 

VII. 

BLEACHING  AND  DYEING  STRAW  HATS. 
First  step  in  bleaching  straw;   Cleaning  straw  hats,  and  soap  for 

that  purpose 1 88 

Actual  decoloration  (bleaching)  of   straw;   Various  methods   of 
bleaching;    Freeing  the  articles  from  coloring  matters,  resins, 

wax,  etc 189 

Bleaching  with  chlorine;  Apparatus  for  preparing  bleaching  liquor, 

described  and  illustrated 191 

Vessels  for  bleaching  straw  articles;   Bleaching  with  hypochlorites 

(bleaching  fluids) 194 

Bleaching  with  sulphurous  anhydride  (sulphurous  acid  in  a  gas- 
eous state) ;  Oven  for  burning  sulphur,  described  and  illustrated; 

Bleaching  with  liquid  sulphurous  anhydride 195 

Means  of  simplifying  the  process  of  bleaching 196 

Bleaching  with  hydrogen  peroxide,  and  with  sodium  peroxide 197 

Dyeing  of  straw;    Black  on  straw 198 

Silver-gray  on  straw;  Chestnut- brown 199 

Medium  brown  on  straw;  Cheapest  brown  on  straw  hats;  Havana- 
brown,  Catechu-brown 200 

Maroon;   Violet;   Yellow;   Use  of  aniline  colors  for  dyeing  straw; 

Mode  of  dissolving  aniline  colors 201 

Beige  on  straw;   Tobacco-brown;   Gendarme-blue 202 

Cardinal;   Dark  green;   Myrtle  green;   Dark  maiine  blue;   Silver- 
gray  203 

VIII. 
CLEANING  AND  DYEING  GLOVES. 

Cleaning  kid  gloves;  Restoration  of  lusire  to  gloves 204 

Method  of  cleaning  white  gloves;   Removal  ol  rust  and  ink  stains  205 

The  fat  bath,  and  its  preparation 206 

Washing  chamois  gloves;   V\  ashing  buckskin  gloves 207 

Washing  gauntlets;   Cleaning  Suede  gloves;   Dyeing  kid  gloves. .  208 


XVI  CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Black  on  gloves;  Brown  on  gloves 209 

Morocco-red  on  gloves;  Gray  on  gloves;  Use  of  aniline  colors 

for  dyeing  gloves 210 

Red  on  gloves;  Violet;  Blue 211 

Green  on  gloves;  Yellow,  and  brown  on  gloves;  Aniline  colors 

suitable  and  unsuitable  for  dyeing  gloves 212 

IX. 

GARMENT  DYEING. 
Difficulties  of  this  branch  of  the  dyeing  trade;   Advisability  of 

testing  goods  previous  to  accepting  them  for  re-dyeing 214 

Points  which  have  to  be  considered  by  the  garment  dyer;  Colors 

which  may  be  dyed  on  the  original  color 215 

Dyeing  silks 216 

Precautions  to  be  observed  in  washing  and  dyeing  silks;   Cleaning 

and  stripping  the  goods;  Testing  goods  for  strength 217 

Black  on  silk 218 

Dark-brown  on  silk ;   Coffee-brown  on  silk 220 

Tobacco- brown  on  silk;   Gold;   Bordeaux  red 221 

Scarlet  on  silk ;   Crimson ;   Cherry-red 222 

Cream  on  silk;   Rose  color;   Salmon  rose;   Carail;   Pale  blue,  ciel.  223 

Alkaline  blue;  Navy  blue;   Helictrope 224 

Prune  on  silk;   Silver-gray;   Gray;  Wood-gray 225 

Vesuve,  dull  fiery  tones  on  silk;   Bright  green;   Pea  green;   Green.  226 
Dull   yellow-green   on    silk;    Mess   green;    Olive;    Very   bright 

green ;   Cinnamon-brown ;    Yellow 227 

Greenish-yellow  on  silk;   Orange;   Mauve;   Fancy  colors,  and  all 

intervening  tones  on  silk 228 

Dyeing  genuine  velvet;   Dyeing  wool  and  silk  (gloria)  fabrics; 

Definition  of  gloria;  Dyes  which  act  equally  on  wool  and  silk 

at  boiling  heat 229 

Dyes  which  have  a  stronger  affinity  for  wool;   Division  of  the  acid 

dyes  according  to  their  affinity  for  silk  and  wool;   Best  means 

of  dyeing  wool  and  silk  to  shade 230 

Production  of  "  shot "  effects 231 

Dyeing  woolen  garments  and  fabrics;   Application  of  the  acid 

dyestuffs 232 

Usual  method  of  dyeing  wool  with  acid  dyes;  Use  of  dyestuffs. . .  233 


CONTENTS.  Xvii 

PAGE 

Dyeing  with  mordant  dyes 234 

Preparing  woolen  garments  for  dyeing;  Sorting  and  cleaning  the 

the  garments 235 

Black  on  wool;  Jet  black;  Blue  black 236 

Violet  black;  Dead  black;  Diamond  black;  Brown  black 237 

Chromotrop  black;  Logwood  black;  Gray  on  wool;  Pearl  gray; 

Dark  gray 238 

Scarlet;  Crimson;  Deep  Red;  Ponceau;  Maroon;  Terracotta 

red ;  Cherry  red ;  Bordeaux  red  239 

Claret  red;  Bright  red;  Orange;  Yellow;  Bright  yellow;  Deep 

yellow ;  Golden  yellow 240 

Green;  Dark  green;  Bright  green;  Sage  green;  Medium  green; 

Olive  green;  Emerald  green;  Blue;  Bright  blue;  Dark  blue..  24.1 
Navy-blue;  Blue-black;  Deep  navy-blue;  Peacock  blue;  Dark 

peacock  blue;  Violet  blue;  Deep  sky-blue;  Violet 242 

Mauve;  Brown;  Yellow  brown;  Olive  brown;  Deep  seal;  Deep 

brown ;  Walnut - 243 

Olive  brown;  Dyeing  mixed  cotton  and  wool  goods;  Black 244 

Blue-black;  Lark  blue;  Dark  brown 245 

Scarlet;  Crimson;  Orange;  Dark  green;  Slate;  Dark  gray; 

Drab;  Cornflower-blue;  Sage  brown 246 

Dark  sage;  Peacock  green;  Dyeing  of  cotton  goods;  Removal 

of  size;  Method  of  working  with  direct  dyes 247 

Scarlet  on  cotton;  Crimson  red;  Pink;  Claret;  Maroon 248 

Salmon;  Yellow;  Old  gold;  Dark  yellow;  Cream;  Orange; 

Green ;  Sage  green 249 

Bright  grass  green;  Dark  green;  Blue;  Sky  blue;  Navy  blue; 

Dark  navy;  Violet  blue;  Plum;  Violet;  Brown 250 

Light  brown;  Dark  brown:  Gold  brown;  Chestnut  brown; 

Black ;  Gray 25 1 

Dyeing  cotton  and  linen  garments  containing  jute;  Most  common 

colors  for  these  mixed  goods;   Dyes  most  in  use  for  pure  jute; 

Dyes  for  mixtures  of  jute  with  cotton  and  linen;    Mixing  the 

dye  with  the  dressing 252 

Receipt  for  black 253 


CONTEXTS. 


STRIPPING  COLORS  FROM  GARMENTS  AND  FABRICS. 

Clothes  with  which  the  garment  dyer  has  to  deal;  Stripping  with 
hot  soda  and  soap;  Process  for  stripping  some  of  the  aniline 
colors 254 

Bath  for  removing  browns  and  blacks;  Stripping  silks  dyed  with 
aniline  colors 255 

Stripping  woolens;   Stripping  mixtures  of  wool  and  silk,  an^  mix- 
tures of  wool  and  cotton  ;   Stripping  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen  256 
An  old  method  of  stripping  woolens ;   Stripping  with  potassium 
permanganate;   Various  stripping  agents 257 

XI. 

ANALYSIS  OF  TEXTILE  FIBERS. 

Characteristics  of  the  principal  fibers  as  shown  under  the  micro- 
scope ;  Cotton ;  Flax  . .  • 259 

Hemp;  Jute;    Silk;  Tussah  silk;    Wool 260 

Chemical  examination  of  fibers  and  fabrics;   Basis  of  all  vegetable 

fibers;   Effect  of  various  chemicals  on  vegetable  fibers 261 

Effect  of  chemicals  on  wool ;   Determination  of  wool  and  of  silk  .   262 
Determination  of  the  presence  of  vegetable  fibers  in  a  tissue  of 

wool  and  silk 263 

Testing  white,  or  not  too  dark -colored,  mixed  tissues 264 

Detection  of  silk  in  wool,  or  wool  in  silk 265 

Preparation  of  tissues  for  chemical  testing 266 

Summary  for  distinguishing  the  purity  of  a  fabric  by  chemical 
agents;  Cotton;  Cotton  in  linen  cloth;  Cotton  in  woolen  cloth ; 

Jute ;    Linen;   Silk ;  Tussah  silk 267 

Recognition  of  cloth  containing  silk  and  wool;    Mercerized  cloth  268 
Index 269 


PRACTICAL  DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER  AND 
GARMENT  DYER. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING. 

IN  1866,  a  Frenchman,  M.  Judlin,  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  an  entirely  new  industry  by  discovering  the 
detergent  powers  of  benzine,  and  the  art  of  dry 
cleaning  has  now  spread  over  the  entire  civilized 
world.  The  success  of  the  method  was  due  to  the 
fact  that  it  altered  neither  the  fit  nor  the  fashion  of 
the  garments,  while  wet  washing  with  soap  not  un- 
commonly affects  one  or  both  of  them,  so  that  other 
processes  are  often  required  after  wet  washing ;  which 
are  unnecessary  with  dry  cleaning.  The  dry  clean- 
ing of  garments  is  thus  simple  and  rapid,  and  what 
is  more,  most  of  the  benzine  used  can  be  recovered 
for  use  again. 

Chemical  cleaning  does  much  towards  the  better- 
ing of  social  conditions,  and  to-day  the  celebrated 
remark  of  Liebig  that  the  civilization  of  a  nation 
could  be  measured  by  the  amount  of  soap  it  con- 
sumes, might  be  supplemented  by  adding  that 
those  countries  in  which  the  chemical  cleaning  es- 


2     DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

tablishments  are  not  well  patronized,  are  by  far  less 
cultured  than  those  which  have  recognized  the  worth 
and  value  of  this  industry. 

The  full  significance  of  chemical  cleaning  is  steadily 
gaining  ground,  and  it  is  becoming  more  and  more 
a  matter  of  necessity  to  have  such  garments  as  can- 
not well  be  laundried  thoroughly  dry-cleaned  from 
time  to  time. 

Chemical  cleaning  is  especially  valuable  to  doctors 
and  nurses,  and  all  those  coming  in  contact  with  in- 
fectious diseases,  it  having  been  proved  that  this  pro- 
cess not  only  destroys  germs  in  clothing,  but  also 
renders  the  garments  treated  practically  immune. 

The  phrase  "  dry  cleaning,"  or  as  the  French  call 
it,  nettoyage  a  sec,  originated  from  the  fact  that  no 
water  is  used  in  the  process.  However,  in  reality, 
the  garments  are  immersed  and  washed  in  benzine, 
benzol,  or  some  other  solvent.  Thus  the  term  "  dry 
cleaning  "  is  a  misnomer,  and  the  real  definition  of 
dry  or  chemical  cleaning  is  immersion  in  a  liquid 
which  dissolves  fat.  It  may  be  objected  that  the 
soap  and  soda  used  in  ordinary  washing  dissolve  fats, 
but  in  this  instance  it  is  not  a  case  of  solution  pure 
and  simple.  What  is  dissolved  is  soap  formed  by 
the  chemical  action  of  alkali  upon  the  fat,  and  not 
the  fat  as  such.  Any  fat  that  is  not  converted  into 
soap  is  emulsified,  and  passes  away  undissolved  into 
the  rinsing  water.  The  definition  of  dry  or  chemical 
cleaning  thus  includes  two  points :  Firstly,  total  im- 
mersion in  a  liquid,  and  not  local  applications  of 
liquid  with  a  sponge,  etc.,  the  latter  being  merely  a 


DRY   OR    CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  3 

stain-removing  process,  and  secondly,  that  the  action 
of  the  liquid  must  be  purely  solvent,  and  must  neither 
emulsify  the  fat  nor  alter  it  chemically.  The  fat 
must  be  recoverable  from  the  solvent  by  simple  dis- 
tillation. 

Although  benzine  and  benzol  are  generally  used 
as  solvents,  they  are  not  the  only  liquids  available. 
Ether,  chloroform,  acetic  ether,  carbon  tetrachloride, 
alcohol,  could  all  be  used  for  chemical  cleaning, 
although  price  and  other  considerations  forbid  their 
employment,  or  restrict  it  within  narrow  limits. 
Some  of  them,  especially  carbon  tetrachloride,  will 
no  doubt  be  much  more  largely  used  in  the  future 
than  they  are  now.  Briefly  stated,  dry  cleaning  is 
based  upon  the  solvent  power  for  grease  of  benzine, 
benzol  and  other  solvents. 

Most  stains  in  garments  consist  of  dirt  held  by- 
grease  of  various  kinds  collected  during  the  wearing 
of  the  clothes.  By  removing  the  grease — the  dirt- 
carrying  vehicle — the  dirt  is  released  and  the  stain 
disappears.  As  compared  with  the  older  method  of 
cleaning,  this  process  possesses  great  advantages, 
the  possibility  of  shrinking  and  felting  of  woolen 
stuffs,  almost  unavoidable  in  the  treatment  with 
water,  being  entirely  excluded.  Furthermore,  the 
most  delicate  colors  are  not  affected  or  in  the  least 
injured,  and  richly-trimmed  ladies'  gowns  can  be 
cleansed  without  the  necessity  of  ripping  off  any 
portion  or  removing  the  trimmings.  The  padding 
of  mens'  coats  is  not  shifted,  and  many  household 
articles  which  would  be  rendered  useless  by  the 


4          DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ordinary  method  of  cleaning  may  by  this  process  be 
restored  to  their  original  cleanness,  and  besides  the 
expense  of  ripping  apart  and  re-sewing  is  avoided. 

As  previously  mentioned  the  fluids  chiefly  used 
for  this  cleaning  process  are  as  follows :  Benzine, 
benzol,  turpentine,  and,  in  most  modern  times,  carbon 
tetrachloride  or  tctrachloro-methane. 

i .  Benzine,  also  known  as  petroleum  spirit,  is  a 
water-white,  limpid  liquid,  with  the  peculiar  and 
characteristic  odor  of  petroleum.  It  is  highly  in- 
flammable and  requires  handling  with  great  care. 
It  begins  to  evolve  gas  at  86°  F.,  and  boils  between 
122°  and  140°  F.  It  is  the  second  lightest  product 
obtained  during  the  refining  of  petroleum.  It  has  a 
specific  gravity  of  0.730  to  0.760.  A  product  hav- 
ing almost  identical  properties  with  benzine  is  shale 
naphtha,  obtained  by  distilling  Scotch  shale.  It  has 
generally  a  slightly  higher  specific  gravity,  higher 
boiling-point,  and  is  not  so  volatile  as  the  petroleum 
product. 

As  a  solvent  for  oils  and  greases,  benzine  is  not 
excelled,  but  no  matter  whence  it  may  be  derived, 
for  the  purpose  of  the  garment  cleaner,  a  product 
haying  a  specific  gravity  of  between  0.728  to  0.735 
is  the  best,  so  that  it  can  be  readily  expelled  from 
the  garments  at  the  normal  heat  of  a  stove.  A  pro- 
duct of  less  specific  gravity  is  not  required,  and 
makes  the  process  more  expensive  by  reason  of  the 
greater  loss  due  to  evaporation  during  washing.  A 
sufficiently  accurate  method  for  testing  benzine  as  to 
its  availability  for  dry  cleaning  is  as  follows :  Pour 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  5 

the  benzine  in  a  clean,  white  porcelain  dish,  and 
allow  it  to  spontaneously  evaporate.  No  residue 
should  remain  in  the  dish,  and  no  perceptible  odor 
should  adhere  to  the  dish. 

It  is  a  principal  requisite  that  the  benzine  should 
be  free  from  odoriferous  substances  as  otherwise  the 
garments  might  retain  a  disagreeable  smell.  To  be 
sure,  benzine  itself  cannot  be  freed  from  its  charac- 
teristic odor,  but  the  latter  can  be  completely  ex- 
pelled by  a  suitable  oven-heat. 

Benzine  as  found  in  commerce  is  not  a  definite 
chemical  combination  but  a  mixture  of  hydrocar- 
bons of  the  paraffine  series  and  must  not  be  con- 
founded with  the  definite  chemical  compound  benzol 
(C6H6)  of  the  aromatic  series. 

While,  as  previously  mentioned,  benzine  is  not 
excelled  as  a  solvent  for  oils  and  greases,  its  use  is 
of  no  value  for  the  removal  of  ordinary  dust  or  dirt 
such  as  frequently  collects  on  the  bottoms  of  dresses 
and  pantaloons. 

When  rubbed  between  the  hands  benzine  causes  a 
sensation  of  hardness  which  is  due  to  the  withdrawal 
of  fatty  substances  from  the  skin.  It  has  long  been 
recognized  that  if  an  alkali,  chiefly  in  the  form  of 
soap,  or  another  chemical  compound  in  a  dissolved 
state  could  be  added  to  benzine,  the  cleaning  power 
of  the  latter  would  be  considerably  increased,  and  its 
use  could  be  extended  to  very  dirty  articles  upon 
which,  by  itself,  it  exerts  but  little  influence.  For 
about  twenty-five  years  endeavors  have  been  made 
to  add  soaps  to  benzine  by  attempting  to  dissolve 


6    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

thoroughly  dried  soaps  in  benzol,  alcohol,  turpentine, 
etc.,  and  adding  the  resulting  product  to  benzine. 
Under  the  name  of  benzine  soaps  various  products 
are  now  found  in  the  market,  and  are  much  used, 
forming  in  fact  an  important  item  of  the  dry-clean- 
er's outfit.  In  1893,  Dr.  M.  Richter  discovered  that 
sharply-dried  soaps  of  the  alkaline  earths,  for  in- 
stance, neutral  magnesia  soap,  dissolve  in  benzine 
and  possess  the  power  of  preventing  electric  excita- 
tion of  the  benzine  and  the  consequent  spontaneous 
firing  caused  thereby.  The  term  antibenzinpyrin 
has  been  applied  by  the  inventor  to  such  soaps. 

According  to  Dr.  Richter,  the  oleates  soluble  in 
benzine  may  be  classified  as  follows : 

1.  Hydrated    acid    oleate    of    the    alkaline    salts, 
called  benzine  soaps. 

2.  Anhydrous  normal  oleates  of  the  salts  of  the 
alkaline  earths,  called  antibenzinpyrin. 

A  very  interesting  fact  is  the  power  of  the  acid 
oleates  to  absorb  water.  This  may  be  readily  ob- 
served by  adding,  drop  by  drop,  water  to  a  ten  per 
cent,  solution  of  benzine  soap.  On  shaking,  the 
water  yields  a  clear  solution  with  the  benzine  soap. 
Attention  may  here  be  drawn  to  the  fact  that  the 
goods  to  be  cleaned  always  contain  moisture,  and  as 
benzine  does  not  mix  with  water,  satisfactory  results, 
without  the  use  of  benzine  soap,  can  only  be  ob- 
tained by  previously  drying  the  goods  as  much  as 
possible.  With  the  use  of  benzine  soap  such  drying 
is,  however,  superfluous.  On  coming  in  contact 
with  the  goods,  the  benzine  soap  absorbs  the  par- 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  7 

tides  of  water  contained  in  a  finely-divided  state  in 
the  goods,  lays  bare  the  fibre,  and  thus  allows  the 
benzine  to  exert  its  grease-dissolving  power.  Of 
course  there  is  a  limit  to  the  water-absorbing  power 
of  benzine  soap. 

The  solubility  of  benzine  soaps  is,  however,  only 
conditional.  From  solutions  of  less  than  0.2  per 
cent.,  the  soap  is  in  a  short  time  precipitated  in  the 
form  of  slime.  Generally  speaking  it  may  be  laid 
down  as  a  rule  that  the  lower  the  temperature  and 
the  more  water  the  benzine  soap  has  absorbed,  the 
more  readily  precipitation  will  take  place. 

In  addition  it  maybe  mentioned  that  the  extremely 
disagreeable  property  of  benzine  soaps  of  being 
readily  decomposed  by  weak  acids  is  solely  due  to 
the  content  of  water. 

The  well-known  fact  that  in  wet  washing  of,  for 
instance,  carpets  and  curtains  from  smoking  rooms, 
the  soap  frequently  is  suddenly  broken,  applies  also 
to  chemical  washing,  there  being  no  doubt  of  its 
being  caused  by  substances  of  an  acid  character. 
This  difficulty  which  cannot  be  foreseen,  is  extremely 
annoying  and,  as  it  frequently  occurs,  may  even  be 
called  a  calamity,  because  by  reason  of  the  decom- 
position of  the  benzine  soap,  protection  from  electric 
ignition  becomes,  illusive.  The  fact  is  that  hydrated 
benzine  soaps  are  only  anti-electric  so  long  as  they 
remain  in  solution  and  contain  no  more  free  oleic 
acid  than  the  acid  salt  requires. 

Preparation  of  antibenzinpyrin, — Dissolve  22  Ibs. 
best  quality  white  grain-soap  (75  per  cent,  fat)  in 


8    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

water,  and,  at  about  203°  F.,  add  magnesium  chlor- 
ide or  magnesium  sulphate  (Epsom  salts)  so  long 
as  separation  takes  place.  The  semi -liquid  magne- 
sium oleate  floating  on  the  surface  is  then  removed 
and  remelted  with  fresh  boiling  water.  The  product 
thus  purified  is  wrapped  in  a  linen  cloth  and  freed 
from  adhering  water  in  a  centrifugal.  The  product, 
which  still  contains  water,  is  then  slowly  heated  in  a 
copper  boiler  to  266°  F.  by  means  of  indirect  steam. 
When  the  mass  flows  quietly,  the  steam  is  shut  off, 
and  15  Ibs.  of  odorless  petroleum  are  stirred  in. 
This  anhydrous  magnesium  oleate  is,  while  still  in  a 
liquid  state,  dissolved  in  20  gallons  of  benzine.  With 
the  exception  of  a  very  slight  sediment,  the  product 
should  dissolve  clear,  and  remain  so ;  a  slimy,  white 
precipitate  indicates  that  the  magnesium  oleate  used 
still  contained  water,  and  consequently  had  not  been 
long  enough  heated.  Of  this  benzine  solution  one 
quart  is  to  be  used  as  an  addition  to  every  25  gallons 
of  benzine.  Dilution  may  also  be  reduced  to  one- 
half,  hence  to  about  10  to  n  gallons.  In  this 
case  one  pint  suffices  for  25  gallons  of  benzine. 

2.  Benzol  or  benzene. — This  liquid  is  obtained  from 
the  portion  of  coal  tar  boiling  at  212°  F.  It  is  a 
water-white,  limpid  liquid,  is  strongly  refractive,  and 
has  a  peculiar  aromatic  odor  and  taste.  It  boils  at 
from  176°  to  212°  F.  Its  specific  gravity  is  0.85  to 
O.88.  It  is  easily  inflammable,  burning  with  a  lum- 
inous, smoky  flame.  It  is  very  volatile  and  when 
exposed  to  the  atmosphere  vaporizes  without  leaving 
behind  any  residue.  It  is  a  powerful  solvent  for  all 


DRY    OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  9 

oils  and  fats,  and  yields  excellent  results  in  dry 
cleaning,  but  though  somewhat  cheaper  now  is  still 
too  expensive  for  the  purpose. 

Benzine  can  be  distinguished  from  benzol  in  the 
following  manner :  Benzine  is  colored  violet  by  a 
crystal  of  potassium  iodide,  while  benzol  i$  colored 
carmine.  If  to  two  cubic  centimeters  of  benzine, 
three  or  four  drops  of  a  clear  ether  solution  of  sand- 
arac  (i  to  10)  are  added  a  persistent  cloudiness  is 
produced  in  the  benzine,  while  with  benzol  heated  in 
the  same  manner  the  cloudiness  will  soon  pass  away. 
Finally,  if  the  benzol  is  shaken  with  a  drop  of  alco- 
hol, it  will  become  clouded,  while  the  benzine  will 
remain  clear. 

Benzol  has  not  the  slightest  action  on  the  most 
delicate  tints  and  colors,  and  new  stuffs  frequently 
acquire  a  much  finer  appearance  when  washed  with 
it  previously  to  being  sold. 

3.  Turpentine.  This  product  was  formerly  known 
as  oil  or  spirit  of  turpentine,  but  these  terms  have  in 
the  course  of  time  fallen  into  disuse,  and  the  name  of 
turpentine,  originally  applied  to  the  resinous  mater- 
ial itself,  is  now  generally  given  to  the  volatile  liquid 
used  by  painters  for  cleaning  purposes,  etc. 

Turpentine  is  obtained  by  distilling  the  oleo- 
resinous  exudations  of  various  species  of  Finns. 
The  crude  turpentine  is  put  into  a  large  still,  heat  is 
applied,  and  a  little  water  from  time  to  time  added 
to  the  contents  of  the  still.  Distillation  is  continued 
as  long  as  turpentine  passes  over,  when  the  resinous 
residue  is  run  off  through  a  stop-cock  at  the  bottom 


IO   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

of  the  still,  is  passed  through  several  strainers,  and 
then  constitutes  rosin.  On  condensing  the  distillate, 
the  turpentine  separates  from  the  water  and  is  dipped 
into  barrels,  in  which  it  enters  commerce. 

Turpentine  is  a  water-white,  clear  liquid  of  a 
peculiar  and  very  characteristic  odor.  It  is  lighter 
than  water,  its  specific  gravity  varying  between  0.85 
and  0.87.  It  is  insoluble  in  water,  although  it  im- 
parts its  odor  to  it.  It  boils  at  about  302°  F.,  and 
is  completely  distilled  at  a  temperature  of  338°  F. ; 
old  samples  may,  however,  leave  a  very  small  residue 
behind  them. 

Turpentine  is  readily  combustible ;  it  flashes  at 
97°  to  1 00°  F.,  and  at  a  slightly  higher  temperature 
burns  with  a  luminous  flame  accompanied  with  the 
emission  of  much  smoke. 

Of  the  different  varieties  of  turpentine  the  French 
product  is  the  best.  It  is,  however,  almost  ex- 
clusively consumed  in  France  itself,  very  little,  if 
any,  being  exported.  American  and  Russian  tur- 
pentines are  the  best  varieties  for  the  purpose  of 
dry-cleaning.  They  have  very  similar  properties, 
Russian  turpentine  having  rather  more  odor  than 
the  American  product.  Austrian  turpentine  cannot 
be  recommended,  it  always  showing  a  slightly  yel- 
lowish color  even  when  thoroughly  rectified. 

German  turpentine  obtained  by  destructive  dis- 
tillation of  various  species  of  Pinus  should  not  be 
used,  as  it  possesses  a  peculiar  odor  which  cannot 
be  removed  from  garments  treated  with  it.  Besides 
it  rapidly  turns  yellow  on  exposure  to  air,  and 
resinifies. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  II 

Although  turpentine  is  an  excellent  solvent  for 
grease,  oils,  etc.,  it  is  not  a  good  material  to  use 
with  the  dry  process,  it  being  apt  to  leave  behind  a 
somewhat  unpleasant  odor.  This  is  more  likely  to 
be  the  case  with  Russian  than  with  American  tur- 
pentine, and  when  the  garments  are  dried  slowly. 
For  this  reason  it  is  but  seldom  used,  although  fre- 
quently recommended  for  removing  oil  and  paint 
stains  from  garments. 

There  is  no  good  reason  for  the  generally  prevail- 
ing idea  that  turpentine  when  used  for  cleaning  silk 
stuffs,  imparts  to  them  a  soft  feel  and  greater  luster 
and  softness. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  or  tetrachloromethane,  CC14, 
is  a  colorless,  mobile,  volatile  fluid,  of  a  peculiar 
chloroform-like  odor.  It  is  heavier  than  water,  hav- 
ing a  specific  gravity  of  [.629;  boiling-point 
170.6°  7r.  It  is  now  prepared  on  a  large  scale  by 
the  reaction  of  carbon  bisulphite  with  chloride  of 
sulphur,  which  are,  both  bodies,  readily  and  cheaply 
prepared  by  the  direct  union  of  their  elements. 
Besides,  the  by-product  of  the  reaction  is  free  sul- 
phur, which  can  be  reconverted  into  carbide  and 
chloride,  for  use  again  as  the  whole  of  the  sulphur 
is  recovered. 

Carbon  tetrachloride  is  coming  more  and  more 
into  use  for  dry  cleaning,  and  in  other  ways  as  a 
solvent  for  fats  and  greases  on  account  of  its  non- 
inflammability,  which  gives  it  an  enormous  advantage 
over  benzine.  Although  still  more  expensive  than 
benzine,  it  is  cheaper  than  it  used  to  be,  and  thanks  to 


12    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

improved  methods  of  manufacture,  there  seems  to  be  a 
good  chance  that  in  the  near  future  it  will  not  greatly 
differ  in  price  from  benzine,  which  in  time  will  prob- 
ably become  more  expensive.  There  is  no  limit  to 
the  artificial  production  of  tetrachloride,  but  benzine 
cannot  as  yet  be  obtained  except  from  petroleum, 
and  it  is  impossible  that  this  natural  product  will  be 
obtained  on  the  present  enormous  scale  for  a  much 
longer  time.  It  must  not  be  forgotten,  moreover, 
that  the  user  of  carbon  tetrachloride  has  a  great 
advantage  over  the  user  of  benzine  in  respect  to  fire 
insurance.  Carbon  tetrachloride  is  neither  com- 
bustible nor  explosive,  and  poured  upon  a  fire  puts 
it  out  exactly  as  so  much  water  would  do.  It  is 
slightly  poisonous,  but  its  fumes  are  not  so  deleter- 
ious as  those  of  benzine. 

Even  the  best  samples  of  benzine  are  apt  to  leave 
some  smell  behind  them  in  goods  which  have  left  the 
cleaner.  Whatever  may  be  thought  of  the  smell  of 
carbon  tetrachloride  during  use  it  is  only  in  the 
rarest  cases,  when  it  has  been  used  on  heavy  woolens 
for  the  most .  part,  that  it  leaves  any  trace  of  odor 
perceptible  to  the  dry-cleaner's  customers.  More- 
over, the  effect  upon  dyes  has  to  be  considered. 
Dry  cleaning  with  benzine  is  less  likely  to  affect  sen- 
sitive dyes,  especially  in  light  shades  than  wet  wash- 
ing. It  is,  however,  true  that  carbon  tetrachloride 
affects  such  dyes  as  a  class  less  than  any  kind  of 
benzine,  and  is  therefore  especially  adapted  for 
cleaning  garments  dyed  in  delicate  tints,  and  par- 
ticularly when  the  fabric  is  an  expensive  one,  such 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  13 

as  silk.  These  are  evidently  cases  when  the  excess 
of  cost  to  the  cleaner  involved  in  the  use  of  carbon 
tetrachloride  is  of  comparatively  small  importance. 

Another  advantage  of  carbon  tetrachloride  is  that 
it  can  be  used  in  combination  with  the  cheaper  ben- 
zine. The  cleansing  power  of  the  mixture  is  at 
least  equal  to  that  of  pure  benzine,  and  the  addition 
of  the  carbon  tetrachloride  checks  to  some  extent 
any  tendency  to  firing  of  the  benzine  by  electricity 
or  otherwise. 

In  stain-removing,  carbon  tetrachloride  is  quite  as 
effectual  as  benzine,  and  has  much  less  tendency  to 
spread  out  and  make  perceptible  outlines  at  the 
place  where  it  is  applied.  For  this  purpose  it  can 
also  be  mixed  with  benzine.  In  glove-cleaning  car- 
bon tetrachloride  leaves  the  leather  softer  and  less 
liable  to  crack  on  stretching  than  is  the  case  when 
benzine  is  used. 

One  other  important  point  still  remains  to  be  men- 
tioned. There  is  much  loss  by  evaporation  when 
benzine  is  employed,  both  during  the  use  and  during 
the  storage  of  the  liquid.  In  use  this  loss  is  largely 
unavoidable,  but  is  less  in  the  case  of  carbon  tetra- 
.chloride  than  with  benzine,  as  the  former  has  a 
higher  boiling  point  than  the  latter.  In  storage  the 
loss  which  is  so  difficult  to  prevent  in  the  case  of 
benzine,  especially  when  the  stock  is  frequently 
drawn  upon,  can  be  completely  avoided  in  the  case 
of  the  tetrachloride  by  covering  it  with  a  deep  layer 
of  water.  Carbon  tetrachloride  is  more  than  half  as 
heavy  again  as  water,  and  will  not  mix  with  it. 


14        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Hence  the  water  swims  on  the  top  and  effectually 
prevents  all  evaporation  of  the  carbon  compound, 
which  can  be  drawn  off  at  will  from  under  the  water. 
It  is  well  known  that  benzine  is  to  some  extent  mis- 
cible  with  water,  and  also  that  wet  benzine  is  quite 
useless  for  dry  cleaning  purposes.  The  water  over 
the  carbon  tetrachloride  should  be  kept  at  a  good 
depth,  say  three  or  four  inches,  so  that  there  may  be 
not  only  an  effectual  barrier  to  the  escape  of  carbon 
tetrachloride  vapor  which  has  a  very  perceptible 
tension  in  hot  weather,  but  a  superincumbent  weight 
will  accelerate  the  flow  of  the  carbon  compound 
from  the  reservoir. 

THE  DANGERS  OF  BENZINE  AND  OTHER  SOLVENTS  IN 
DRY  CLEANING. 

It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say  that  in  working 
with  benzine  or  benzol,  and  even  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, the  greatest  care  has  to  be  observed.  Naked 
lights  or  a  stove  should  not  be  allowed  in  the  work- 
ing room.  Where  incandescent  electric  light  is 
available,  the  burner  should  be  in  a  double  air- 
tight glass  cover.  Failing  electric  light,  the  room 
should  be  lit  from  outside  through  an  air-tight 
window. 

Benzine  and  benzol  are  not  only  highly  inflam- 
mable in  a  liquid  state,  but  have  such  low  boiling 
points  that  they  give  off  large  volumes  of  vapor  at 
ordinary  temperatures.  This  vapor  is  of  course 
combustible  like  the  liquids,  but  unlike  the  latter,  it 
can,  by  mixing  with  air,  form  a  dangerous  and 


DRY    OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  15 

powerful  explosive.  Two  conditions  must  exist  be- 
fore combustion  or  explosion  can  take  place.  One 
is  that  the  liquid  or  the  vapor  must  be  in  contact 
with  oxygen,  i.  e.  in  practice  with  the  air,  and  the 
other  is  that  there  must  be  a  sufficiently  high  tem- 
perature where  the  two  meet  to  cause  chemical 
action  between  them.  If  either  of  these  conditions 
is  absent  there  is  no  possibility  of  ignition  or  explos- 
ion. Now  experience  has  shown  that  the  tempera- 
ture which  meets  the  second  of  the  two  essential 
conditions  may  be  comparatively  low  and  may  be 
reached  in  various  ways  with  the  intervention  of  a 
flame  or  electric  spark. 

In  an  ordinary  dwelling  house  the  use  of  benzine 
or  gasoline  is  fraught  with  great  danger.  Both 
vaporize  at  ordinary  temperatures,  and  the  vapor  is 
not  absorbed  in  the  atmosphere,  but  falls  to  the  floor 
level,  where  it  flows  in  a  stream  in  the  direction  of 
any  air  current  by  which  it  may  be  affected.  If  this 
stream  should  happen  to  come  in  contact  with  a 
flame  in  another  room,  it  would  carry  the  fire  back 
to  the  bulk  of  the  gasoline,  and  cause  an  explosion. 

All  vessels  (hydro-extractors,  washing  and  rinsing 
machines,  etc.)  containing  inflammable  liquids  should 
have  adequate  covers,  and  should  as  far  as  practic- 
able be  kept  closed  during  use.  The  covers,  more- 
over, should  be  balanced,  so  that  if  forced  open  by 
explosion  they  will  fall  back  by  their  own  weight  and 
cut  off  the  air  supply  from  the  burning  liquid  ;  or  in 
case  of  rinsing  vessels  which  cannot  be  kept  closed 
during  use,  an  iron  cover  should  be  suspended  from 


1 6        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

above  by  a  cord  passing  to  a  catch  at  some  distance 
from  the  vessel,  when  in  emergency  it  can  be  imme- 
diately set  free,  so  that  the  cover  will  fall.  In  many 
large  establishments  the  use  of  rinsing  vessels  has 
been  entirely  abandoned,  and  rinsing  is  effected  in 
closed  washing  machines  with  clean  benzine.  A 
loud  crackling  noise  heard  while  rinsing  in  benzine 
may  be  considered  as  a  forerunner  of  spontaneous 
ignition.  In  this  case  allow  the  goods  to  rest 
quietly  for  some  time  in  the  vessel,  and,  if  possible, 
introduce  moist  air  into  the  room.  Such  spontaneous 
ignition  occurs  more  frequently  with  white,  than  with 
dark-colored,  goods.  Attention  is  also  directed  to 
special  safety  appliances  which  are  now  available  for 
the  storage  of  inflammable  liquids. 

By  the  means  above  described  the  risk  of  fire  and 
explosion  can  be  greatly  lessened,  but  it  is  still  neces- 
sary to  make  provision  for  minimizing  these  effects. 
There  should  be  an  ample  water  supply,  with  hy- 
drants and  hose  in  order  to  prevent  the  extension  of 
flames,  but  water  should  not  be  used  in  attempts  to 
extinguish  burning  benzine.  For  the  latter  purpose 
blankets  and  a  supply  of  sand  should  be  kept  in 
readiness.  Steam  jets  will  be  useful  in  the  event  of 
fire,  as  well  as  for  the  preventative  purpose  of  humidi- 
fication  when  the  air  is  dry. 

Ammonia  is  also  an  excellent  fire  extinguishing 
agent.  When  thrown  in  a  hearth  it  acts  imme- 
diately ;  instead  of  flames,  volumes  of  black  smoke 
rise  up,  and  every  trace  of  fire  disappears.  As  a  fire 
may  cut  the  ordinary  exit  by  the  door,  there  should 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  1 7 

be  provided  an  outside  fire  escape  if  the  room  is  not 
on  the  ground  floor.  All  persons  employed  should 
have  clear  instructions  what  to  do  in  case  of  fire,  and 
wear  woolen  or  other  non-inflammable  outer  gar- 
ments. 

Ignition  by  electric  sparks,  which  is  now  recog- 
nized as  the  cause  of  most  instances  of  so-called 
spontaneous  firing  of  benzine  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
textile  fabrics — especially  undyed  wool  and  silk 
— and  many  other  materials  become  electrified  when 
rubbed  or  moved  quickly  in  benzine,  and  sparks 
may  result  causing  explosion. 

According  to  Dr.  W.  Richter,  it  is  a  singular  fact 
that  spontaneous  firing  has  never  been  observed  in 
the  morning,  but  always  in  the  afternoon  hours,  and 
further,  always  when  work  is  slack,  and  never  in  the 
busy  season.  Richter  attributes  spontaneous  firing 
to  the  formation  of  sparks  by  the  alternation  of  the 
positive  electricity  of  the  wool  with  the  negative 
electricity  of  the  benzine.  Whether  the  formation 
of  sparks  is  promoted  by  metals  has  not  yet  been 
determined.  Spontaneous  firing  may  also  depend 
on  a  mixture  of  benzine,  steam  and  air  in  certain 
proportions.  Experiments  have  shown  that  the 
risk  of  sparking  is  greatly  increased  in  frosty  weather 
and  when  the  air  is  especially  dry. 

In  Paris  no  dry-cleaning  establishments  are  al- 
lowed within  the  city  limits.  This,  of  course,  is  a 
protection  from  fire  as  far  as  houses  in  the  city  are 
concerned,  but  not  the  establishment  itself.  To  de- 
crease danger  from  fire,  F.  Fischer  has  recommended 
2 


I  8    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

to  artificially  increase  the  content  of  moisture  in  the 
air  by  steaming  or  otherwise.  This  can  be  readily 
done  if  steam  jets  are  available.  While  Dr.  Richter 
considers  this  an  excellent  plan,  it  is  unfortunately 
not  very  suitable  for  dry-cleaning  establishments,  as 
the  moisture  might  impair  the  effect  of  chemical 
cleaning.  It  has  also  been  recommended  to  increase 
the  viscosity  of  benzine  by  the  addition  of  fat,  to 
diminish  friction.  But  neither  this  nor  the  addition 
of  alcohol,  ether,  chloroform  and  carbon  tetra- 
chloride,  has  proved  of  any  effectual  use. 

As  previously  mentioned,  benzine  may  be  ren- 
dered less  liable  to  ignition  by  electric  sparks  by  the 
addition  of  soap.  According  to  Dr.  Gartenmeister, 
an  addition  of  o.oi  per  cent,  of  magnesia  soap  pre- 
vents electric  excitation  in  the  goods  so  long  as  the 
magnesia  soap  is  not  separated  by  water  or  decom- 
posed by  stronger  acids. 

An  addition  of  o.oi  per  cent,  of  benzine  soap — 
hydrated  acid  alkali  oleate — also  prevents  electric 
excitation  so  long  as  the  soap  is  not  precipitated  by 
the  withdrawal  of  water  as  anhydrous  soap,  or  de- 
composed by  a  stronger  acid. 

The  employment  of  magnesia  soap  in  addition  to 
benzine  soap  is  useless. 

For  the  prevention  of  electric  excitation  the  re- 
quired small  quantity — o.oi  per  cent,  of  benzine 
soap  or  magnesia  soap — should  be  added  to  the  pure 
benzine  in  which  the  washed  goods  are  rinsed. 
However,  in  most  cases  the  necessary  quantity  of 
benzine  soap  remains  in  the  tissue  from  washing. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  19 

Apart  from  the  risk  of  fire  and  explosion,  injury 
to  health  may  result  from  breathing  the  fumes  of 
benzine,  etc.,  and  care  should  be  taken  to  make  the 
exposure  to  those  fumes  as  brief  as  possible.  Meals 
should  not  be  taken  in  the  room  in  which  inflamma- 
ble fluids  are  used,  and  suitable  accommodations 
should  be  provided  elsewhere. 

THE  CLEANING  PROCESS. 

Dry  cleaning  is  not  adapted  for  every  kind  of 
tissue,  and  the  first  proceeding  should  be  to  sort 
the  goods  to  be  cleaned. 

Suitable  for  the  dry  process  are : 

a.  White   silk   fabrics   and   ribbons,  and   such  as 
contain  other  colors,  but  in  which  white  is  neverthe- 
less the  prevailing  color. 

b.  Woolen  and  half-woolen  fabrics. 

c.  Silk-velvet  and  all  other  colored  silk  stuffs. 

d.  Light-colored  woolen  and  half-woolen  fabrics. 

e.  Dark-colored  articles. 

It  is  especially  advisable  to  keep  velvet,  plush,  and 
other  goods  with  a  pile  surface  separate  from  other 
kinds  of  material. 

Less  suitable  for  dry  cleaning  are  half-silk  fabrics, 
as  well  as  cotton  and  linen  stuffs. 

Not  suitable  for  dry  cleaning  are  especially  white 
linen  and  cotton  pantaloons,  vests,  sun  and  rain  um- 
brellas, satin  shoes,  etc.  These  articles,  which,  for 
reasons  readily  understood,  cannot  be  brought  into 
the  wash  machine,  require  cleaning  by  hand  with 
the  tampion  and  brush. 


20   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Colored  articles  which  discolor  when  treated  with 
the  tampion  must,  of  course,  be  separated  to  prevent 
other  stuffs,  especially  white  or  those  with  a  white 
ground,  from  becoming  smeared.  This  generally 
happens  with  stuffs  dyed  with  tar  colors  which  have 
not  been  sufficiently  steamed. 

There  are  a  number  of  methods  and  several  kinds 
of  apparatus  for  carrying  out  the  actual  process  of 
dry  cleaning  according  to  whether  the  work  is  to  be 
done  on  a  large  or  small  scale;  the  principle  of 
cleaning  being,  however,  the  same  in  every  case. 

It  is  a  great  advantage  and  saving  of  time  and 
benzine  to  get  as  much  dust  as  possible  beaten  or 
shaken  out  of  the  garments.  This  is  best  done  with 
whips  on  a  mattress.  If  sticks  are  used  buttons  get 
broken  and  other  damage  ensues.  A  slowly  revolv- 
ing star  wheel  similar  to,  but  smaller  than,  the  type 
used  for  carpet  beating,  is  a  very  good  machine  for 
the  purpose.  Hooks  should  also  be  closed  with 
pliers  to  prevent  them  catching  and  tearing  any 
thing.  After  beating  the  garments  should  be  thor- 
oughly brushed,  especially  the  pockets,  with  a 
medium  stiff  brush.  Too  hard  a  brush  is  apt  to  tear 
the  wool  from  men's  garments  which  may  cause 
shiny  spots.  For  garments  of  soft  or  fine  texture  a 
soft  woolen  rag  made  into  a  ball  may  be  used  in 
place  of  a  brush.  This  woolen  rag  should  be  as 
near  as  possible  of  the  same  color  as  the  article  to  be 
cleaned,  i.  e.  a  light-colored  rag  should  be  used  for 
light  stuffs  and  one  of  a  dark  or  black  color  for  dark 
stuffs.  A  chief  requirement  is  that  the  brushes, 


DRY    OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  21 

rags,   etc.,  used  are  themselves   clean ;   further  that 
they  are  perfectly  dry,  i.  e.  free  from  water. 

Finally,  the  garments  should  be  dried  to  remove 
any  moisture  they  contain,  as  the  presence  of  water 
prevents  the  benzine  from  acting.  If  there  is  water 
in  the  benzine  or  in  the  goods,  damp  places  will  be 
formed  in  the  latter.  These  places  retain  their  own 
dirt  and  absorb  dirt  from  their  immediate  neighbor- 
hood, and  the  dirt  in  them  is  effectually  protected 
from  the  detergent  action  of  the  benzine.  The  result 
is  that  the  goods  leave  the  washing  machine  covered 
irregularly  with  dark  stains.  If  treated  at  once  these 
stains  can  generally  be  removed  quite  readily  by 
means  of  a  good  rubbing  and  brushing  with  benzine 
soap.  If,  however,  the  goods  have  been  dried  they 
often  resist  this  treatment  successfully,  and  nothing 
remains  to  be  done  but  to  wash  them  all  over  again, 
taking  care  of  course  to  use  perfectly  dry  benzine. 
It  is  obvious,  however,  that,  on  the  ground  of 
economy,  both  of  benzine  and  of  time  and  labor, 
prevention  is  better  than  cure,  and  the  following 
simple  method  is  invariably  successful.  Should  the 
benzine  be  wet,  a  few  yards  of  white  and  perfectly 
dry  cotton  cloth  should  be  run  in  the  machine  with 
the  benzine  for  a  few  minutes.  The  cotton  will  ab- 
sorb the  whole  of  the  moisture,  and  after  its  removal 
the  ordinary  washing  can  be  safely  placed  in  the 
machine.  After  the  cotton  has  been  used  a  few 
times  for  drying  the  benzine,  it  cannot  be  trusted  to 
take  up  the  water  efficiently.  It  is,  therefore,  cen- 
trifuged,  dried,  wet-washed,  and  again  made  abso- 


22    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

lutely  dry.  It  can  then  be  used  again  for  the  same 
purpose.  If  this  procedure  is  followed,  the  same 
piece  of  cotton  can  be  almost  indefinitely  used. 

In  smaller  establishments  the  actual  process  of 
dry  cleaning  may  be  carried  on  as  follows : 

Five  vessels  sufficiently  large  to  allow  of  the  con- 
venient handling  of  the  stuffs  to  be  treated  in  them 
are  used.  The  vessels  may  be  of  zinc-sheet,  though 
it  is  better  to  have  them  made  of  copper-sheet,  or  to 
employ  large  stone-ware  pots  such  as  are  much  used 
in  the  chemical  industry.  Each  vessel  should  be 
provided  with  a  well-fitting  lid.  The  vessels  should 
be  cylindrical  in  form  and  greater  in  depth  than 
diameter. 

Fill  the  vessels  three-quarters  full  with  benzine, 
and  then  sort  the  articles  which  are  to  be  cleaned. 
Separate  the  lighter  from  the  darker,  and  in  this 
manner  arrange  several  piles  of  articles.  Spread  out 
each  article,  first  the  lighter  and  last  the  darker, 
upon  a  table  covered  with  zinc-sheet,  see  Fig.  5,  and 
remove  the  worst  stains.  For  this  purpose  tie  a 
piece  of  wadding,  the  size  of  a  fist  and  made  into  a 
ball,  into  a  piece  of  white  linen  so  that  the  corners 
of  the  latter  can  be  used  as  a  handle,  fhis  con- 
trivance is  called  a  "  tampion."  Now  dip  the  tam- 
pion into  benzine  in  a  dish  until  it  is  thoroughly 
saturated,  and  vigorously  rub  the  dirtiest  places  until 
the  greater  portion  of  the  dirt  is  removed.  Proceed 
in  the  same  manner  with  all  the  articles,  the"  darker 
being  taken  last,  because  by  repeatedly  dipping  the 
tampion  into  the  benzine,  the  latter  acquires  a 
darker  color. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  23 

The  benzine  remaining  after  the  operation  is  fin- 
ished is  poured  into  a  large  vessel,  which  is  provided 
with  a  well- fitting  lid.  Now  wash  the  articles  treated 
with  the  tampion,  one  after  the  other,  in  vessel  No.  i, 
throw  them  into  vessel  No.  2,  and  cover  the  latter. 
Then  thoroughly  wash  lot  No.  I  with  the  hands,  and 
in  the  meanwhile  bring  the  articles  in  vessel  No.  2 
into  No.  3.  Now  throw  the  washed  lot  No.  I  into 
vessel  No.  2,  and  then  commence  washing  the  next 
lot,  bringing  in  the  meanwhile  the  articles  in  vessel 
No.  3  into  No.  4  and  those  in  No.  2  into  No.  3.  The 
lot  washed  next  is  then  thrown  into  vessel  No.  2. 

This  changing  of  the  articles  from  one  vessel  to 
the  other  is  done  for  the  purpose  of  always  bringing 
the  first  lot,  that  is,  the  white  pieces,  in  contact  with 
pure  benzine,  the  latter  becoming  constantly  darker 
by  washing  the  articles.  The  articles  first  treated 
are  finally  again  washed  in  vessel  No.  5,  then  spread 
out  upon  the  table  and  examined.  If  dirty  places 
are  still  found,  the  articles  are  rubbed  with  a  clean 
tampion  dipped  into  the  benzine  in  vessel  No.  5,  and 
then  for  some  time  placed  in  vessel  No.  5.  From 
the  latter  they  are  thrown  into  a  vessel  provided  with 
a  lid;  in  which  the  adhering  benzine  drains  off  and 
is  from  time  to  time  removed  by  tilting  the  vessel. 
The  articles  are  finally  wrung  by  passing  them 
between  the  rolls  of  a  wringer,  or,  still  better,  the 
adhering  benzine  is  removed  by  means  of  a  centri- 
fugal worked  by  hand.  The  articles  are  then  dried 
in  quite  hot,  closed,  drying-chambers,  provided  with 
contrivances  for  the  escape  and  condensation  of  the. 
benzine  vapors. 


24   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

By  this  treatment  the  articles  are  thoroughly 
cleaned  as  far  as  can  be  done  with  benzine.  It 
must,  however,  be  mentioned  that  all  stains  produced 
by  alkalies,  acids,  sugar,  milk,  etc.,  resist  the  action 
of  benzine.  The  same  is  also  the  case  with  the 
so-called  sweat-stains,  which  are  caused  by  a  change 
in  the  color.  To  remove  such  stains,  the  separate 
.places  must  be  subjected  to  a  special  treatment,  as 
will  be  explained  later  on. 

The  method  above  described  is  very  practical,  but 
possesses  the  inconvenience  of  the  operator  being 
much  exposed  to  the  vapors  of  the  benzine.  This 
may,  however,  be  avoided  by  carrying  on  the  work 
under  a  well-drawing  chimney. 

For  draining  the  articles,  a  tall  cylindrical  vessel 
of  zinc  or  copper,  provided  with  a  perforated  false 
bottom,  is  generally  used.  The  adhering  benzine 
drains  off  through  the  perforated  bottom,  and  is  from 
time  to  time  drawn  off  through  a  cock  near  the  true 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  vessel  may  also  be  pro- 
vided with  a  movable  lid  and  screw,  so  that  by  ap- 
plying pressure  this  portion  of  the  operation  is  ac- 
celerated. 

Silk  articles  are  simply  washed  by  hand  in  the 
above- described  manner,  as  otherwise  they  would 
suffer  too  much.  Besides,  if  only  individual  stains 
have  to  be  removed,  the  articles,  with  the  exception 
of  the  stained  portion,  remain  intact,  and  the  latter 
itself  is  only  treated  with  the  greatest  care. 

For  working  on  a  larger  scale,  the  arrangement 
above  described  is,  however,  unsuitable,  and  a  num- 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  25 

ber  of  good  machines  will  be  required,  namely,  a 
benzine  washing  machine,  an  extractor,  a  cleaning 
table,  a  tank  or  tub  for  rinsing,  and  a  couple  of 
cylindrical  tanks  of  zinc. 

All  machines  and  vessels  used  in  a  dry-cleaning 
establishment  should  be  hermetically  closed  in  order 
to  prevent  evaporation  of  the  solvent  employed. 

All  kinds  of  benzine  washing  machines,  both  for 
hand  and  power,  are  on  the  market,  and  there  should 
be  no  difficulty  in  finding  a  suitable  one.  It  should 
close  hermetically,  be  easy  to  get  at  in  all  its  parts, 
work  evenly,  and  be  kept  scrupulously  clean.  The 
simplest  form  of  machine  is  merely  a  closed  cylinder 
divided  into  two  parts  lengthwise  by  a  set  of  parallel 
pipes,  and  capable  of  rotation  on  its  axis,  which  is 
kept  horizontal.  The  best  material  is  iron,  all  inner 
parts  being  galvanized  or  tinned.  The  speed  of 
rotation  is  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  turns  per 
minute.  The  stuff  is  on  one  side  of  the  pip^s. only,  so 
that  it  is  dipped  into  the  benzine  at  every  revolution, 
and  can  be  taken  out  after  it  has  been  left  to  drain 
in  the  cylinder. 

A  better  form  of  machine,  however,  is  a  rotating 
cage,  into  which  the  goods  are  put.  It  turns  inside 
a  fixed  cylinder  containing  the  benzine,  into  which 
the  lower  half  of  the  cage  dips.  The  cage  is  divided 
lengthwise  in  the  same  manner  as  the  rotating 
cylinder  in  the  first  machine. 

Fig.  i  shows  a  power-driven  washing  machine, 
manufactured  by  Edw.  C.  Grever  &  Co.,  Cincinnati, 
O.  The  outside  shell  or  tub  is  made  of  hard  brass 


26        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

or  galvajiized  iron  of  ample  strength,  riveted  on  cast- 
iron  heads,  the  joints  of  which  are  planed  and  fast- 

FIG.  i. 


ened  together  with  bolts.  These  are  made  perfectly 
oil-tight.  The  tub  is  fitted  with  a  sliding  door  and 
patent  reverse  movement.  Only  cut  gears  are  used, 
all  of  which  are  protected  by  guards. 


FIG.  2. 


The  cylinder  or  cage  of  the  machine  shown   in 
Fig.  2,  is  made  of  No.  13  half-hard  brass,  riveted  on 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  2; 

to  the  flange  of  the  cast-iron  spiders,  which  form  the 
heads.  The  flange  extends  over  the  sheet  brass 
thereby  relieving  the  rivets  of  the  strain  caused  by 
the  falling  of  the  goods.  The  inside  surface  of  the 
cast-iron  spiders  is  covered  with  brass  or  copper. 
The  special  process  of  embossing  the  brass  cylinder 
leaves  no  sharp  edges  to  tear  or  damage  the  goods, 
as  the  ridge  of  the  perforation  is  rolled  over  and 
forms  a  solid  and  smooth  bead  which  adds  strength 
to  the  plates.  The  hinges  extend  across  the  length 
of  the  door  and  serve  to  prevent  the  springing  of  the 
latter. 

FIG.  3. 


Fig.  3  shows  a  washing  machine  of  similar  con 
struction  for  hand- power. 

Washing.  In  many  establishments,  the  garments, 
after  having  been  freed  from  dust,  as  previously  de- 
scribed, are  first  brushed  over  with  solution  of  ben- 
zine soap  in  benzine.  The  lightest-colored  goods 
are  taken  first  and  run  from  10  to  15  minutes  in  the 


28        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

washer  filled  with  fresh  benzine.  They  are  then 
transferred  to  fresh  benzine  in  a  second  washer,  and 
run  there  for  15  minutes,  while  the  darker  goods  go 
into  the  first  machine  without  the  benzine  in  it  being 
changed.  After  the  second  benzine  bath,  the  gar- 
ments are  lifted  from  the  machine  and  more  goods 
put  into  the  latter  until  the  benzine  is  too  dirty,  when 

FIG.  4. 


it  is  distilled.  The  garments  lifted  from  the  machine 
are  centrifuged  in  a  hydro-extractor  or  centrifugal 
machine.  Fig.  4  shows  the  Cincinnati  hand  ex- 
tractor, which  can  be  easily  converted  into  a  power 
machine  by  slipping  onto  the  crank  shaft  a  pair  of 
tight  and  loose  pulleys.  The  gears  are  accurate  and 
practically  noiseless  in  operation.  The  basket  is 


DRY   OR    CHEMICAL   CLEANING. 


29 


suspended  on  steel  ball  bearings,  and  is  24  inches  in 
diameter  and  14  inches  high. 

The  centrifuged  goods  are  examined,  and  well 
brushed  over  with  a  solution  of  benzine  soap  in  ben- 
zine. The  garment  is  spread  out  on  the  top  of  a 
table  covered  with  zinc,  and  furnished  with  a  rim,  an 
outlet  pipe,  and  box  for  soap  and  brush,  Fig.  5. 
The  top  of  the  table  thus  constitutes  a  shallow  tank, 
and  all  unnecessary  loss  of  benzine  is  avoided.  After 
the  brushing  the  goods  may  either  be  again  run  in 

FIG.  5. 


the  machine  with  fresh  benzine  containing  benzine 
soap,  or  worked  in  the  solution  in  a  vat.  Finally  the 
goods  are  centrifuged  and  hung  up  for  the  rest  of 
the  benzine  to  evaporate. 

When  the  pieces  leave  the  hydro-extractor  they 
are  almost  dry,  but  in  order  to  thoroughly  free  them 
from  fumes  they  must  air  several  hours  in  a  warm 
room.  This  evaporating  room  must  be  warmed  by 
means  of  hot  air  or  steam  heat,  direct  fire  being  of 
course  out  of  the  question. 


30   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYE^R. 

In  the  above-described  manner  even  rather  dirty 
goods  will  be  turned  out  in  a  faultless  condition, 
and  only  in  rare  cases  subsequent  washing  with  soap 
will  be  required.  Even  very  dirty  goods  will  often 
require  only  a  final  brushing  with  cold  water  after 
the  evaporation  of  the  benzine.  It  is,  however,  very 
important  to  remember  that,  if  soap  must  be  used, 
the  temperature  of  the  soap  bath  must  in  no  case 
exceed  80°  F. 

White  woolen  and  silk  goods  are  brushed  over 
with  a  somewhat  weaker  solution  of  benzine  soap  in 
benzine,  and  run  for  from  10  to  15  minutes  in  the 
washer.  As  regards  silk  this  is  done  on  account  of 
the  greater  danger  of  explosion,  and  wool  readily 
turns  gray,  especially  in  damp  weather  and  with 
fresh  benzine.  Benzine  several  times  distilled  is,  on 
the  whole,  better  for  white  goods  than  fresh  benzine, 
the  former  being  specifically  lighter  than  the  latter, 
and  the  goods  turn  out  more  beautiful,  the  spe- 
cifically lighter  the  benzine  is. 

White  goods  after  being  well  dried  and  brushed, 
and  hooks  and  eyes,  buckles  and  other  sharp  objects 
attached  to  them  removed,  are  thoroughly  washed 
with  a  strong  solution  of  benzine  soap.  They  are 
then  immediately  rinsed  in  a  bath  mixed  with  weak 
benzine  soap  solution  and  next  hydro-extracted. 
The  goods  are  then  brought  into  a  washing  machine 
containing  benzine  and  well  dissolved  benzine  soap 
and  run  in  the  machine  for  15  to  20  minutes,  when 
they  are  rinsed  twice  in  clean  benzine.  When  thus 
cleaned  remaining  stains  are  easy  to  remove  and  the 


DRY    OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  31 

goods  turn  out  better  than  by  dry  washing  after  re- 
moving the  stains.     White  uniforms  and  fancy  cos 
tumes,  if  the  lining  and  make-up  permit,  are  best 
brushed  off  with  water  feebly  acidulated  with  hydro- 
chloric acid,  and  hard  material  is  steamed  moist. 

Colored  silks,  when  very  dirty  and  stained,  cannot 
be  properly  cleaned  by  the  dry  process,  but  the  then 
necessary  wet  cleaning  should  be  preceded  by  a 
washing  with  benzine.  When  the  silk  is  thus  par- 
tially cleaned,  the  wet  washing  can  be  of  a  gentler 
character,  and  will  be  more  rapidly  effected,  and  the 
colors  will  much  less  suffer  from  it.  One  point 
which  deserves  special  attention  is  the  frequent  oc- 
currence of  red  stripes  interwoven  in  the  waists  of 
ladies'  blouses.  These  red  stripes  usually  give  up 
their  dye  to  the  benzine,  whereby  not  only  the  silks, 
but  everything  else  in  the  machine  are  ruined. 
Waistbands  containing  such  stripes  must  always  be 
removed  from  the  garment  before  cleaning.  Small 
articles  are  cleaned  together  in  a  coarse  muslin  bag, 
otherwise  they  are  very  liable  to  be  lost.  If  a  wet 
cleaning  must  follow  the  chemical  treatment,  make 
a  lukewarm  solution  of  a  gall  soap,  or  of  a  good 
neutral,  olive-oil  soap.  Then  spread  the  article  on 
a  clean  surface — best  on  a  slab  of  marble — and  apply 
the  soap  to  it  with  a  soft  brush,  or  if  the  silk  is  very 
fine,  with  a  sponge.  Work  as  rapidly  as  possible  to 
lessen  the  chance  of  the  color  being  affected,  rinse 
thoroughly  but  expeditiously,  and  immediately  after- 
wards place  the  silk  in  an  acetic  acid  bath.  Centri- 
fuge the  articles  rolled  separately  in  calico.  After 
drying  dress  with  a  solution  of  gelatine,  and  press. 


32        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Although  by  washing  in  the  machine,  most  of  the 
grease  and  dirt  attached  to  the  goods  are  removed, 
there  are  frequently  stains  of  paint,  acid,  fruit,  etc., 
which  are  not  affected  or  removed  by  the  benzine. 
It  is  therefore  necessary  to  subject  the  goods  to  a 
thorough  examination  after  they  have  been  taken 
from  the  washing  machine,  and  if  stains  are  found,  to 
remove  them  by  special  means,  which  will  be  referred 
to  later  on. 

Cleaning  and  renovating  real  velvet  goods. — This 
kind  of  work  constitutes  a  special  department  in 
cleaning  establishments  and  will  therefore  be  here 
discussed  in  detail.  As  a  rule,  goods  of  this  class 
are  injured  by  having  been  crushed  or  exposed  to 
rain.  The  cleaner's  office,  therefore,  is  to  remove 
the  spots  and  other  damages  arising  from  these 
causes.  The  operation  consists  of  two  processes, 
namely,  cleaning  and  steaming.  First  of  all  the  vel- 
vet must  be  freed  from  dust,  which  is  best  accom- 
plished by  placing  the  article  on  a  soft  foundation 
and  beating  thoroughly  with  an  ordinary  beater,  such 
as  is  used  for  upholstered  furniture.  The  article  is 
next  manipulated  with  a  wire  br-ush,  special  atten- 
tion being  given  to  particularly  hard  spots.  When 
the  article  has  thus  been  freed  from  dust,  it  is  thor- 
oughly rubbed  with  benzine,  applied  with  a  soft 
woolen  rag,  special  attention  being  paid  to  the  dam- 
aged parts.  Stains  caused  by  oil,  paint,  tar,  varnish, 
etc.,  which  do  not  yield  to  the  treatment  with  ben- 
zine or  chloroform,  are  removed  by  covering  them 
with  butter  or  lard,  allowing  them  to  stand  for  some 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  33 

time,  and  rubbing  again  with  benzine.  The  article 
is  then  dried  with  the  assistance  of  heat  and  rubbed, 
in  the  same  manner  as  with  benzine,  with  rectified 
alcohol,  using  a  soft  woolen  rag  .and  giving  special 
care  to  spots  caused  by  crushing  and  rain.  Should 
there  be  spots  due  to  corrosive  substances,  they 
should  be  treated  with  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  am- 
monia ;  but  in  case  the  color  is  not  revived  by  this 
means,  a  little  logwood  and  green  vitriol  (ferrous 
sulphate)  must  be  used  to  restore  it.  The  spots 
thus  dyed  are  allowed  to  dry  and  are  again  brushed. 
Very  dirty  articles  must  be  entirely  cleaned  with 
benzine. 

When  the  velvet  has  been  thoroughly  cleaned, 
that  is,  clean  to  the  backing,  steaming  may  be  pro- 
ceeded with.  This  is  done  on  the  steaming  board, 
which  is  covered  with  a  thick  woolen  cover,  over 
which  a  soft  linen  cloth  is  drawn  to  prevent  the 
steam  from  being  too  moist  when  it  strikes  the 
velvet.  Care  should  be  taken  to  use  steam  as  dry 
as  possible.  The  steam  valves  must  close  properly 
so  that  the  flow  ot  steam  can  be  regulated  at  will. 
Everything  being  in  order,  the  article  is  stretched 
smoothly  over  the  steam  board,  and  a  little  steam 
being  turned  on,  the  damaged  places  are  thoroughly 
scrubbed  with  a  small  sharp  brush — a  nail  brush  will 
do — until  they  have  been  restored,  after  which  they 
are  brushed  with  a  larger  softer  brush,  in  order  to 
remove  gloss  and  the  former  brush  marks  and  to 
give  the  whole  a  uniform  appearance.  The  steam  is 
then  allowed  to  flow  in  with  greater  force,  but  the 
3 


34        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

article  must  not  become  too  hot,  so  that  after  clos- 
ing the  valve,  it  will  not  become  moist  by  the  con- 
densation of  the  steam.  Good  light  is  a  special 
requisite  and  the  work  should  be  done  in  a  place 
free  from  all  draught,  for  a  single  cold  draught  of  air 
is  sufficient  to  spoil  all.  If,  however,  notwithstand- 
ing every  precaution,  an  article  becomes  damp,  it 
must  be  at  once  dried  and  the  process  repeated. 
Every  portion  of  a  ripped  garment  as  well  as  every 
part  of  a  whole  article  should  be  secured  with  pins 
so  that  no  shifting  can  take  place.  When  all  the 
stains  have  been  removed,  the  articles  are  exposed 
to  a  heavy  flow  of  steam  for  the  purpose  of  equaliz- 
ing the  whole.  Whole  velvet  jackets  are  for  this 
purpose  hung  upon  broad  hangers  so  that  the  sleeves 
are  well  spread  out  and  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
touch  the  articles  while  still  warm  or  damp. 

Articles  which  may  have  become  dull  may  be 
rubbed  with  a  soft  woolen  rag  moistened  with  oil,  dis- 
solved in  benzine,  but  this  must  be  done  very  care- 
fully and  uniformly. 

These  directions  if  carefully  followed  will  insure 
success,  but  the  work  is  not  so  easy  as  it  looks  on 
paper;  dexterity  and  care  are  both  necessary,  and  a 
certain  routine  is  only  acquired  by  practice. 

Large  establishments  have  specially  constructed 
velvet-steamers.  Such  an  apparatus  is  so  constructed 
that  owing  to  interior  partitions,  the  water  must  ab- 
solutely separate  from  the  steam.  In  addition  the 
steam-pipe  is  provided  with  a  discharge  pipe  for  the 
condensed  water.  The  steamer  is  constructed  of 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  35 

copper  and  enclosed  on  all  sides,  so  that  the  steam 
can  escape  only  in  front  where  it  is  to  act. 

After  having  been  cleaned  the  article  is  most  suit- 
ably steamed  by  not  taking  too  large  a  surface  at  one 
time,  but  steaming  a  portion  thoroughly,  brushing 
with  a  hard  brush  from  bottom  to  top  and  repeating 
brushing  and  steaming  until  the  velvet  shows  a  uni- 
form appearance.  When  thus  the  entire  surface  of 
the  garment  has  been  uniformly  treated,  a  gentle 
flow  of  dry  steam  is  again  passed  through.  Finally, 
the  garment  is  brushed  from  top  to  bottom.  By 
this  process  velvet  and  plush  are  made  to  look  like 
new. 

Chemical  cleaning  of  carpets .  In  order  to  achieve 
good  results  in  cleaning  carpets,  the  dust  must  first 
be  removed.  This  is  especially  true  of  Smyrna  rugs, 
the  colors  of  which  will  never  appear  fresh  and  clean 
unless  every  particle  of  dust  has  been  taken  out, 
while  washing  with  soap  and  water  would  more  or 
less  spoil  them.  The  colors  are  likely  to  change 
and  run,  and  the  dressing  on  the  back  of  the  rug  is 
apt  to  dissolve,  and  the  rug  become  limp  like  a  rag. 
When  this  has  happened  the  dressing  may  be  re- 
stored by  nailing  the  rug,  bottom  side  up,  to  the 
floor,  coating  it  with  glue,  etc.,  and  drying  thor- 
oughly. However,  this  never  equals  the  original 
dressing. 

A  dust-free  carpet  can  be  chemically  cleaned  by 
spreading  it  out  upon  the  floor  and  rubbing  section 
by  section  with  a  linen  cloth  tightly  rolled  together 
and  soaked  in  benzine  and  benzine  soap.  This  will 


36   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

freshen  the  colors  and  clean  the  carpet.  Weak  acetic 
acid  may  also  be  applied,  and  the  carpet  then  dried 
and  steamed.  As  the  colors  of  carpets  are  generally 
fast  to  light,  but  seldom  fast  to  washing,  wet  clean- 
ing should  not  be  resorted  to  unless  absolutely 
necessary. 

PURIFICATION   OF   BENZINE. 

It  is  of  the  greatest  importance  to  every  dry  cleaner 
to  recover  as  much  as  possible  ot  the  benzine  which 
he  has  employed  for  removing  dirt  and  grease  so 
that  it  can  be  again  used  for  the  same  purpose. 
Many  methods  for  doing  this  have  been  proposed, 
and  a  few  of  them  will  here  be  described. 

Filtering. — The  benzine  is  filtered  in  succession 
through  sand,  charcoal  and  flannel.  A  suitable  fil- 
tering apparatus  consists  of  a  zinc  drum  from  40  to 
50  inches  high  and  13  to  14  inches  in  diameter,  pro- 
vided with  a  closely-fitting  cover  and  with  a  conical 
lower  end.  At  the  bottom  of  the  cylindrical  part  of 
the  drum  is  a  perforated  plate  to  support  the  filter- 
ing medium  which  consists  of  a  felt  layer  about  one 
and  a  half  inches  thick,  covered  with  clean  sand, 
which  is  itself  covered  by  coarsely-powdered  animal 
charcoal  or  well-burnt  wood  charcoal.  A  tap  at  the 
bottom  of  the  conical  drum  admits  the  withdrawal  of 
the  filtered  benzine.  The  felt  must  be  washed  from 
time  to  time,  and  fresh  sand  and  charcoal  put  in. 
While  filtered  benzine  is  not  sufficiently  colorless  for 
use  on  light-colored  articles,  it  answers  very  well  for 
those  dyed  with  dark  or  medium  shades. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  37 

Purification  of  benzine  with  siilphuric  acid. — The 
benzine  is  compounded  with  dilute  ( ^  to  y2  per 
cent.)  sulphuric  acid  and  allowed  to  stand  quietly 
for  24  to  36  hours,  when  it  will  be  sufficiently  clari- 
fied and  can  at  once  be  used.  Although  benzine  so 
purified  can  be  used  without  disadvantage  for  all  silk 
and  all  wool  grades,  the  acid  which  it  retains  makes 
it  extremely  destructive  of  all  cotton  fabrics,  so  that 
it  is  inadmissible  even  with  silk  or  woolen  goods,  if 
they  are  lined  with  cotton.  This  destructive  action 
comes  on  with  time  in  any  case,  but  immediately  if 
the  articles  are  ironed. 

This  drawback  may,  however,  be  remedied  by  the 
following  process:  Bring  the  benzine  into  a  large 
earthenware  vessel,  and  while  stirring  constantly, 
mix  it  with  sulphuric  acid  in  the  proportion  of  one 
quart  acid  to  100  quarts  benzine.  Allow  the  mixture 
to  stand  quietly  24  to  48  hours.  If,  however,  the 
benzine  is  to  be  used  the  next  day,  draw  it  off  care- 
fully into  a  lead-lined,  sheet-iron  vessel  and  mix  it 
with  one  pound  of  lime  powder  obtained  by  slaking 
ordinary  lime ;  the  powder  should  be  perfectly  dry. 
In  about  12  hours  all  the  dirt  and  lime  will  have 
settled  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  The  benzine  is 
then  drawn  off  through  a  tap  placed  about  four 
inches  above  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  Benzine 
thus  purified  has  an  odor  different  from  that  of  the 
fresh  or  distilled  product ;  the  odor,  however,  disap- 
pears immediately  on  drying.  The  benzine  is  not 
perfectly  water-white,  it  showing  a  yellowish  tint, 
but  it  can  without  hesitation  be  used  for  goods  of 


38        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

dark  and  light  color,  including  silk.  Even  white 
garments  turn  out  perfectly  clear  if  after  washing 
with  the  clarified  benzine  they  are  rinsed  in  fresh 
benzine. 

The  method  of  clarifying  benzine  invented  by 
Hasselbach  is  said  to  yield  very  satisfactory  results. 
It  consists  in  mixing  the  benzine  with  from  I  to  2 
per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  concentrated  sulphuric 
acid,  the  quantity  depending  on  the  amount  of  dirt 
in  the  benzine.  The  mixture  of  benzine  and  acid  is 
well  shaken  and  allowed  to  stand  until  it  has  com- 
pletely separated  into  two  layers.  The  upper  layer 
of  benzine  is  then  decanted  and  mixed  thoroughly 
with  i  per  cent,  of  its  weight  of  the  following  solu- 
tion :  Alum,  20  ozs. ;  acetate  of  lead,  12  ozs. ;  sul- 
phate of  magnesia,  5  ozs. ;  sulphate  of  soda,  5  ozs. , 
water,  10  gallons.  The  mixture  is  allowed  to  stand 
and  decanted  from  the  precipitated  lead  sulphate 
before  use.  The  acetate  of  alumina  eventually 
present  throws  out  all  the  fatty  acids  from  the  ben- 
zine. The  soluble  sulphates  make  the  liquid  heavy, 
so  that  the  purified  benzine  will  rise  to  the  surface, 
whence  it  can  be  drawn  off  for  further  use. 

Deodorization  of  benzine. — Dissolve  in  the  badly 
smelling  benzine  about  I  to  2  per  cent,  of  its  weight 
of  a  free  fatty  acid.  Then  add  about  ^  per  cent, 
of  tannin  and  mix  intimately.  Finally  add  suffi- 
cient soda  or  potash  lye,  eventually  also  milk  of 
lime,  to  saponify  the  fatty  acid  and  neutralize  the 
tannin,  and  shake  repeatedly.  After  some  time  the 
milky  fluid  separates  into  two  layers — a  salty,  sapon- 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  39 

aceous  slime  on  the  bottom  and  supernatant  clear 
benzine  almost  free  from  color  and  odor.  This 
benzine  when  decanted  and  filtered  may  be  at  once 
used  for  many  technical  purposes,  and  when  dis- 
tilled yields  an  excellent  and  pure  product.  The 
fatty  acids  of  tallow,  olive  oil,  or  of  other  fats  and 
oils,  may  be  used  for  the  purpose,  but  they  should 
show  but  little  odor  of  rancid  fat.  Oleic  acid  may 
also  be  employed,  but  it  must  previously  be  shaken 
with  a  TV  per  cent,  soda  solution  to  get  rid  of  the 
badly  smelling  volatile  fatty  acids,  especially  butyric 
acid. 

Purification  of  benzine  by  distillation.  The  best, 
and  in  fact  only  satisfactory,  process  for  the  recovery 
and  purification  of  benzine  as  yet  known  is  distilla- 
tion. In  proper  hands  the  distillation  is  not  only 
perfectly  safe,  but  it  wastes  less  of  the  benzine  than 
any  other  purification  process.  In  clearing  benzine 
with  sulphuric  acid  or  benzine  powders,  the  organic 
dirt  particles  undergo  a  change  by  which  the  dirty 
gray  coloring  turns  clear  and  yellowish,  but  a  per- 
fectly colorless  fluid  which  could  be  safely  used  for 
cleaning  white  or  light-colored  articles  is  not  ob- 
tained. Besides  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  benzine 
thus  cleared  possesses  the  strength  and  power  be- 
longing to  fresh  or  distilled  benzine.  Benzine 
cleared  by  repeated  filtering  will  certainly  lose  the 
greater  part  of  its  dirt,  but  none  of  the  grease  and 
soap  absorbed  by  it.  Benzine  cleared  in  this  manner 
will  also  not  be  perfectly  colorless,  although  it  is 
much  better  than  that  cleared  with  sulphuric  acid. 


40   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Any  one  having  doubts  on  the  subject  should  con- 
vince himself  by  making  a  trial  of  the  two  methods. 
For  instance,  light  clothes  washed  in  benzine,  cleared 
with  sulphuric  acid,  never  look  clear  and  fresh.  In 
proof  of  this,  take  a  dress  and  wash  the  skirt  in  fresh 
or  distilled  benzine,  to  which  has  been  added  a 
small  quantity  of  benzine  soap,  and  then  wash  the 
waist  in  benzine  cleared  .with  sulphuric  acid,  to 
which  likewise  a  little  benzine  soap  has  been  added. 
The  difference  will  at  once  be  apparent,  for  while  the 
skirt  will  be  perfect,  the  waist  will  have  a  grayish 
yellow  tinge. 

No  matter  whether  a  cleaning  establishment  be 
large  or  small,  a  distilling  apparatus  should  be  one 
of  its  appointments.  The  small  quantity  of  steam 
needed  for  distilling  can  be  provided  by  a  small 
steam  generator,  in  case  other  power  is  wanting. 
These  steam  generators  are  chiefly  used  where  no 
more  than  one-half  atmospheric  pressure  is  required, 
as  for  steaming,  distilling,  dyeing,  and  the  like.  They 
have  a  wrought-iron  fire  box,  require  little  fuel,  and 
are  at  the  same  time  economical  and  most  satisfac- 
tory. They  take  up  little  room  because  they  need 
not  be  walled  in,  and  can  be  set  up  in  any  place  pos- 
sessing a  chimney. 

In  purifying  benzine  by  distilling,  care  should  be 
had  not  to  fill  the  apparatus  above  the  mark  indi- 
cated on  the  gauge  and  in  the  commencement  of  dis- 
tillation to  regulate  the  steam,  so  that  the  benzine 
runs  off  cold  and  water-clear  from  the  condenser. 
With  too  high  a  steam  pressure  oil  and  fat  pass  over 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING. 


with  the  benzine  vapors,  and  therefore  the  pressure 
should  not  exceed  ]/2  atmosphere. 

Fig.  6  shows  a  practical  benzine  distiller.  It  is 
composed  of  three  principal  parts :  The  kettle  for 
the  reception  of  the  dirty  benzine ;  the  condenser  in 
which  the  benzine  vapor  is  cooled  off,  and  the  di- 
vider through  which  the  distilled  benzine  flows  out. 

FIG.  6. 


The  apparatus  is  filled  with  the  dirty  benzine  up 
to  the  mark  indicated  on  the  gauge,  through  the  hole 
A,  which  is  hermetically  closed  after  the  filling. 
Steam  is  then  gradually  introduced,  and  the  cold 
water  cock  B  turned  on,  the  still  being  then  in  work- 
ing order.  The  benzine  flows  through  valve  Ct  while 
the  water  separated  from  the  benzine  has  its  outlet 
through  the  pipe  D.  After  the  benzine  ceases  to 
flow  the  steam  is  shut  off  and  the  valve  E  opened  so 


42    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

that  the  dirt  residues  may  run  out.  By  this  simple 
process  the  apparatus  actually  cleans  itself,  and  no 
benzine  is  lost. 

The  apparatus  is  constructed  of  hammered  pol- 
ished copper,  is  very  strong,  and  can  be  easily  kept 
clean  and  in  good  working  condition. 

The  benzine  still  shown  in  Fig.  7  is  manufactured 

FIG.  7. 


by  Edward  C.  Grever  &  Co.,  Cincinnati,  Ohio.  It  is 
constructed  of  extra-heavy  sheet  copper,  with  flanged 
centre  and  dome.  It  rests  on  a  strong  wrought-iron 
frame  at  a  convenient  height  for  reaching  all  of  the 
valves  and  cocks.  The  still  is  supplied  with  steam 
cock  and  coil,  gauge  glass,  vacuum  valve,  air  cock, 
waste  cock,  worm,  valve,  indicator  and  hand  hole. 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING. 


43 


A  simple  method  of  purifying  the  dark  and  fre- 
quently perfectly  black  benzine  previous  to  distilla- 
tion is  as  follows :  Mix  the  benzine  with  dilute  soda 
solution  (about  10  quarts  of  soda  solution  to  1,000 
quarts  of  benzine.)  After  separation  has  taken  place, 
draw  off  the  lye  and  wash  the  benzine  with  water. 

FIG.  8. 


The  benzine  thus  treated  is  then  subjected   to  dis- 
tillation. 

The  apparatus  shown  in  Fig.  8  is  especially  suit- 
able for  the  distillation  of  the  benzine  treated  in  the 
above  manner,  it  having  the  advantage  of  working 
continuously.  A  is  a  cylindrical  vessel  of  sheet-iron 
or  cast-iron  with  arched  top  and  bottom,  the  latter 
being  provided  with  a  discharge- cock,  /.  The  top 


44        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

is  furnished  with  the  inlet-pipe  h,  the  float  d,  the 
steam-pipe  a,  and  the  steam  discharge-pipe  b.  At 
k  is  placed  a  glass  gauge.  In  order  to  be  enabled 
to  observe  the  influx,  the  inlet-pipe  h  is,  at  i,  pro- 
vided with  an  intermediate  glass  tube.  The  float  d 
is  connected  with  the  jointed  lever /in  such  a  man- 
ner that  in  moving  up  or  down  it  opens  or  closes  the 
cock  g.  The  pipe  a  for  the  admission  of  steam  is 
bent  upwards  in  the  interior  of  the  vessel  and  pro- 
vided above  its  mouth  with  an  arched  iron  plate, 
whereby  the .  current  of  steam  is  uniformly  dis- 
tributed over  the  surface  of  the  fluid.  The  pipe  can 
be  closed  by  the  cock  y.  The  pipe  b  for  discharg- 
ing the  steam  is,  at  c,  provided  with  a  so-called 
safety-funnel  of  the  ordinary  construction,  which 
prevents  any  of  the  fluid  to  be  distilled  from  being 
carried  to  the  condenser.  At  x  the  pipe  enters 
the  worms  oo.  B  is  the  reservoir  for  the  benzine 
to  be  distilled.  In  the  cover  of  this  reservoir, 
which  is  also  constructed  of  iron,  is  a  man-hole,  so 
that  it  may  be  cleansed  when  necessary;  n  is  the 
funnel-pipe  for  filling  the  reservoir,  and  m  the  gauge. 
On  the  bottom  of  the  reservoir  B  is  the  discharge- 
cock  v,  which  is  directly  connected  with  the  pipe  h. 
C  is  the  condenser  with  the  worm  oo,  the  inlet-pipe 
for  water  s,  and  the  discharge-pipe  t.  Below  the 
condenser  stands  a  cylindrical  iron  vessel,  D,  for  the 
reception  of  the  distillate.  It  is  hermetically  closed 
by  a  lid  in  which  is  secured  the  discharge  pipe  for 
gas,  r.  In  the  funnel-like  expansion  of  the  upper 
end  of  r  lies  a  light  hollow  metal  ball  which  serves  as 


DRY   OR   CHEMICAL   CLEANING.  45 

a  valve.  On  the  bottom  of  the  vessel  D  is  a  dis- 
charge-cock or  a  bent  tube,  g,  so  fixed  that  it  is 
laterally  inclined.  The  worm  o  enters  the  vessel  be- 
low the  cover.  The  vessel  is  further  provided  with 
a  glass  gauge,  p. 

The  mode  of  working  with  this  apparatus  is  as 
follows :  The  reservoir  B  being  filled  with  the  dirty 
benzine,  the  cock  v  is  opened.  Since  the  vessel  A 
is  still  empty,  the  float  d  assumes  its  lowest  position, 
the  arrangement  being  such  that  then,  by  the  jointed 
lever  f  connected  with  the  float,  the  cock  £"is  opened, 
and  hence  the  benzine  can  pass  from  B  to  A.  By 
the  benzine  gradually  rising  in  A,  the  float  is  lifted 
and  the  cock  g  gradually  closed,  until,  when  A  is 
about  two-thirds  full,  it  is  entirely  closed  and  the  in- 
flux interrupted.  Now  open  the  cock  y  for  the  ad- 
mission of  steam,  and  distillation  will  commence  in 
a  few  minutes.  Now  since,  with  one  volume  of 
water  in  the  form  of  steam  8  to  10  times  the  volume 
of  hydrocarbons,  according  to  the  degree  of  their 
volatility  and  height  of  their  boiling-points,  are 
driven  off,  it  is  evident  that  the  level  in  the  vessel  A 
will  gradually  fall  and  the  float  d  sink  down,  whereby 
the  cock  g  is  opened  and  a  fresh  influx  in  proportion 
to  the  decrease  of  the  level  in  A  produced.  With 
continuous  working  so  much  waste- water  collects  in 
the  vessel  A  that  the  cock  g  finally  remains  entirely 
closed  in  consequence  of  the  high  position  of  the 
float;  hence,  the  discharge- cock  /has  to  be  occasion- 
ally opened.  However,  with  careful  manipulation  it 
is  not  necessary  to  shut  off  .the  steam  nor  to  inter- 


46        DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

rupt  distillation  even  for  a  few  minutes.  The  distil- 
late which  collects  in  the  vessel  D  consists  of  water 
and  the  oily  hydrocarbons ;  the  former  is  drawn  off 
by  occasionally  inclining  the  pipe  q.  In  the  begin- 
ning of  distillation  the  steam  flowing  into  A  forces 
out  the  air  through  the  worm  o  to  D,  and  from  here 
through  the  pipe  r  into  the  open  air,  for  which  pur- 
pose r  may  be  connected  with  a  chimney.  The 
previously  mentioned  metal  ball  in  r  is,  however, 
absolutely  required,  otherwise  a  considerable  loss  of 
benzine  by  volatilization  may  be  incurred. 

With  this  apparatus  from  2000  to  2500  quarts  can 
be  conveniently  distilled  in  12  hours,  the  quantity 
depending,  of  course,  on  the  volatility  and  the  boil- 
ing-point of  the  material  to  be  purified. 


II. 

REMOVING    STAINS. 

THE  process  to  be  adopted  for  removing  stains 
will  largely  depend  on  the  material  of  which  the 
textile  fabric  is  made,  and  also  whether  it  is  dyed  or 
not  dyed,  and  on  the  character  of  the  stains  them- 
selves. The  latter  may  be  broadly  divided  into  two 
classes,  viz.:  Stains  of  a  fatty  and  a  non-fatty  nature. 
Besides  there  have  to  be  taken  into  consideration 
stains  which  destroy  the  color  and  those  which  have 
no  effect  upon  it.  In  the  former  case  the  stain  itself 
may  be  readily  removed,  but  sometimes  it  will  be 
impossible  to  restore  the  impaired  color.  The  first 
thing  is  to  find  out  what  has  caused  the  stain.  If  no 
conclusion  can  be  reached  on  this  point,  the  clean- 
ing agents  it  is  proposed  to  try  must  be  tested  as  to 
their  action  on  the  dye  on  some  part  of  the  garment 
which  is  invisible  when  it  is  worn,  or  at  any  rate 
where  change  in  the  dye  would  be  likely  to  escape 
observation.  This  must  be  done  before  the  stains  in 
a  conspicuous  place  are  meddled  with. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  every  failure  to  re- 
move a  stain  increases  the  difficulty  of  dealing 
with  it,  and  one  of  the  chief  troubles  of  the  profes- 
sional cleaner  is  with  stains  which  the  owners  of  the 
.garments  have  themselves  tried  in  vain  to  get  rid  of. 
(47) 


48        DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

The  tools  required  for  the  removal  of  stains  con- 
sist of  tampions,  some  pieces  of  buckskin,  large  and 
small  brushes,  and  a  marble  or  glass  slab.  A  glass 
slab  is  to  be  preferred  to  a  wooden  board,  because  it 
does  not  stain,  is  readily  cleaned,  and  is  not  attacked 
by  chemicals.  Small  hard  wood  boards  rounded  off 
on  both  sides,  which  if  necessary  may  be  pushed  into 
sleeves,  etc.,  are  also  very  useful. 

The  removal  of  stains  from  white  goods  is  accom- 
plished with  comparative  ease,  as  the  question  of 
color  does  not  come  into  consideration,  and  quite 
energetic  means  may  be  resorted  to.  Cotton  fabrics 
or  fabrics  containing  cotton  should  not  be  treated 
with  strong  acids,  as  they  have  a  destructive  effect 
upon  the  fibre,  dilute  acids  even  having  some  action. 
If  an  acid  is  required,  certain,  organic  acids  such  as 
acetic,  oxalic  and  tartaric  acids  may  be  used.  Linen 
and  other  fabrics  made  from  vegetable  fibres  should 
be  treated  in  the  same  way  as  cotton.  Wool,  silk 
and  all  animal  fibres  should  not  be  treated  with 
strongly  alkaline  liquids.  Weak  ammonia,  as  well  as 
weak  solutions  of  soda  may  be  applied,  but  it  is 
preferable  never  to  use  any  other  alkali  than  am- 
monia, which  does  not  act  upon  fabrics  made  of 
these  fibres.  Acids  of  moderate  strength  have  no 
effect  on  animal  fibres. 

However,  white  goods  .are  most  readily  cleaned 
with  soap  and  water.  In  difficult  cases,  chlorine 
and  similar  agents  are  employed.  Soap  is  also  an 
excellent  agent  for  removing  stains  from  colored 
fabrics,  provided  the  dye  is  fast.  For  shaped  and 


REMOVING   STAINS.  49 

trimmed  articles  it  is,  however,  best  not  to  use  it,  or 
at  least  very  sparingly. 

Many  stains  can  be  removed  with  water.  The 
principal  requisite  is  to  use  only  distilled  or  soft 
water,  otherwise  a  white  ring  is  formed  around  the 
stain  which  has  been  treated,  and  this  ring  does  not 
disappear.  Spread  the  article  upon  the  glass-plate, 
moisten  a  brush  with  rain-water  and  brush  the  stain 
until  it  is  no  longer  visible ;  then  dry  with  a  piece  of 
buckskin,  as  otherwise  the  water  will  form  rings,  es- 
pecially with  light-colored  articles.  The  treatment 
is  rendered  more  efficient  by  adding  to  the  water  a 
little  salt  for  white  goods,  and  for  colored  ones,  a 
little  spirit.  For  silks  as  much  spirit  is  added  as  can 
be  done  without  affecting  the  dyes.  Goods  also  dry 
much  faster  when  spirit  has  been  added  to  the  water. 

Below  an  account  of  the  chief  cleaning  agents  used 
is  given.  The  chemicals  should  be  absolutely  chem- 
ically pure,  otherwise  it  may  happen  that  in  remov- 
ing one  stain  a  new  one  may  be  produced. 

Ether.  Pure  ether  is  a  colorless,  very  limpid 
fluid,  of  a  peculiar,  penetrating  odor,  and  at  first  a 
very  pungent  taste ,  the  after-taste  is  cooling,  and 
should  not  be  bitter.  Ether  is  extraordinarily  vola- 
tile, boils  at  from  93°  to  95°  F.,  and  burns  with  a 
bright  yellow  flame,  yielding  water  and  carbonic 
acid.  Its  vapor  mixed  with  a  large  quantity  of  air, 
if  ignited,  explodes  with  great  violence.  In  conse- 
quence of  this  property  and  the  great  density  of  its 
vapor,  extreme  care  should  be  exercised  in  handling 
ether  or  manipulating  with  it  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
4 


50        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

flame.  The  latter  should  never  be  done  if  it  can 
possibly  be  avoided,  nor  should  the  ether  be  allowed 
to  stand  in  a  warm  room.  Ether  is  miscible  in  all 
proportions  with  spirit  of  wine,  but  not  with  water, 
which  dissolves  one-tenth  its  volume.  The  presence 
of  water  and  alcohol  is  detected  by  mixing  the  ether 
with  an  equal  bulk  of  carbon  disulphide,  which 
should  result  in  a  perfectly  clear  liquid  ;  a  piece  of 
potassium  kept  in  the  ether  for  24  hours  becomes 
coated  with  a  yellowish  film,  and  imparts  a  yellow- 
ish color  to  the  liquid  if  alcohol  be  present.  Ani- 
line-violet is  insoluble  in  absolute  ether,  but  in  the 
presence  of  I  per  cent,  of  alcohol  colors  the  liquid 
distinctly. 

Ether  is  an  excellent  solvent  for  fats  and  resins. 

Chloroform.  This  is  less  dangerous  than  ether. 
It  is  a  limpid,  colorless,  diffusive  liquid,  not  inflam- 
mable, of  an  agreeable  ethereal  odor,  a  hot  sac- 
charine taste,  and  a  neutral  reaction.  In  a  perfectly 
pure  state  it  is  difficult  to  keep,  and  hence  some 
alcohol  is  added,  so  that  its  specific  gravity  varies 
between  1.488  and  1.492,  and  its  boiling-point  is 
increased  to  149°  F.  When  brought  upon  the  skin 
chloroform  evaporates  rapidly,  with  the  production 
of  a  cold  sensation. 

When  chloroform  is  shaken  in  a  perfectly  clean 
glass-stoppered  vial  with  an  equal  bulk  of  sulphuric 
acid,  no  color  should  be  imparted  to  either  liquid 
after  remaining  in  contact  for  24  hours.  Should  a 
coloration  appear,  the  chloroform  is  not  pure.  If  5 
centimeters  of  purified  chloroform  be  thoroughly 


REMOVING   STAINS.  51 

agitated  with  10  cubic  centimeters  of  distilled  water, 
the  latter,  when  separated,  should  not  affect  blue 
litmus-paper  (absence  of  acids),  nor  test-solution  of 
nitrate  of  silver  (chloride),  nor  test-solution  of  iodide 
of  potassium  (free  chlorine). 

Alcohol  is  a  colorless,  very  mobile  fluid  and  pos- 
sesses a  characteristic  odor  and  taste.  When  ex- 
posed to  the  air  in  a  thin  layer,  it  evaporates  rapidly 
without  leaving  behind  a  residue.  It  is  very  inflam- 
mable and  burns  with  a  non-luminous,  blue  flame. 
It  is  miscible  with  water,  ether  and  chloroform  and 
gives  clear  mixtures  with  the  majority  of  volatile 
oils.  Pure  alcohol  dissolves  either  entirely,  or  par- 
tially, fat  oils,  fats  and  many  resins.  It  is  also  a 
solvent  for  numerous  organic  and  inorganic  com- 
pounds (salts,  alkaloids,  etc.). 

Ammonia.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important 
agents  for  the  removal  of  stains.  It  forms  a  color- 
less fluid,  with  a  strong,  penetrating  odor  and  a 
pungent,  acrid  taste.  When  highly  concentrated  it 
reddens  the  skin  and  produces  blisters.  It  imparts 
a  brown  color  to  turmeric-paper,  a  blue  color  to  red 
litmus-paper,  and  a  green  color  to  the  juice  of  violet 
flowers. 

When  shaken  with  an  equal  quantity  of  lime  water, 
it  should  yield  a  clear,  or  at  the  utmost  slightly  turbid, 
fluid,  otherwise  it  has  been  in  contact  with  air  and 
absorbed  carbonic  acid  from  the  latter.  Empyreu- 
matic  products  are  recognized  by  the  dark  colora- 
tion, as  well  as  by  the  odor,  which  appear  on  heating 
the  fluid  previously  slightly  acidulated  with  sulphuric 
acid. 


52        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

In  commerce  ammonia  is  generally  sold  according 
to  degrees  of  Baume.  For  removing  stains  the  pro- 
duct of  1 8°  to  20°  Be.  suffices. 

Ammonia  suitable  for  cleaning  purposes  should 
evaporate  at  the  temperature  of  boiling  water  with- 
out leaving  any  residue.  When  using  it  for  the  re- 
moval of  stains  it  should  first  be  ascertained  whether 
any  of  the  colors  suffer  a  change  by  it. 

Benzine  has  been  previously  described.  It  is  used 
both  alone  and  mixed  with  other  solvents.  These 
mixtures,  however,  become  unfit  for  use  if  they  turn 
turbid.  Stains  of  axle  grease  and  the  like  are  rubbed 
with  warm  benzine  soap  solution,  and  then  well 
rinsed  in  benzine.  The  same  process  is  good  for 
coffee,  chocolate,  blood  and  gelatine  stains. 

Carbon-tetrachloride  has  been  previously  described. 
It  is  an  excellent  agent  for  removing  grease  stains, 
taking  out  even  old  stains,  and  does  not  make  an 
ugly  border  to  the  place  as  benzine  does. 

Acetic  acid. — This  increases  the  efficacy  of  alco- 
hol, benzine  and  ether  in  many  cases. 

Acetic  acid  occurs  in  commerce  in  various  degrees 
of  purity  and  strength.  For  our  purposes  chemic- 
ally pure  acid  can  only  be  taken  into  consideration, 
and  it  should  especially  be  free  from  empyreumatic 
substances.  The  degree  of  acidity  is  of  minor  con- 
sideration, since  too  strong  an  acid  can  be  readily 
reduced  by  the  addition  of  water. 

Acetic  acid  is  a  colorless  fluid  of  a  peculiar  pun- 
gent taste,  and  when  applied  to  the  human  skin 
causes  redness  and  swelling,  followed  by  paleness  of 


REMOVING   STAINS.  53 

the  part.  Prolonged  application  is  followed  by  vesi- 
cation  and  desquamation  of  the  cuticle.  At  the 
ordinary  temperature  acetic  acid  evaporates  per- 
ceptibly ;  it  boils  at  244.4°  F.  Acetic  acid  neutral- 
ized with  pure  carbonate  of  soda  and  diluted  with 
water  should  not  be  changed  by  potassium  perman- 
ganate solution. 

Acetic  acid  is  used,  diluted  with  water  for  remov- 
ing stains  caused  by  alkalies  and  for  livening  up 
colors  injured  by  street  dust,  especially  on  ladies' 
skirts.  The  goods  are  afterwards  rinsed  with  clean 
water.  Care  must  always  be  exercised  in  using 
acetic  acid  on  dyed  goods. 

Fusel  oil. — This  is  an  excellent  solvent  for  var- 
nishes, oil-colors  and  resins.  The  smell  of  it  is  got 
rid  of  by  airing  the  cleaned  articles. 

Glycerin  is  a  syrupy  liquid  having  the  specific 
gravity  1.28  at  59°  F.  It  is  transparent,  colorless, 
inodorous,  very  sweet,  and  somewhat  warm  to  the 
taste,  oily  to  the  touch,  without  action  upon  litmus, 
and  soluble  in  all  proportions  in  water  and  alcohol ; 
also  in  spirit  of  ether,  but  not  in  ether,  chloroform, 
benzol,  fixed  oils,  or  volatile  oils. 

Glycerin  is  a  solvent  for  alkalies,  alkaloids,  dye- 
stuffs,  and  other  bodies.  It  also  serves  for  finishing 
fine  fabrics,  etc. 

Borax. — Borax  forms  large,  colorless,  monoclinic 
prisms,  which  are  transparent,  inodorous,  have  a 
mild,  sweetish,  cooling,  and  afterwards  alkaline,  taste, 
and  in  dry  air  effloresce  superficially  and  become 
opaque.  It  is  soluble  in  12  to  15  parts  of  cold,  and 


54        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

in  2  parts  of  boiling,  water,  and  in  4  to  5  parts  of 
glycerin,  but  insoluble  in  alcohol.  The  aqueous  so- 
lution has  a  slightly  alkaline  taste,  colors  red  litmus- 
paper  blue,  and  the  juice  of  violet  flowers  green. 

Borax  is  very  frequently  adulterated  with  Glauber's 
salt  (sodium  sulphate),  rock-salt  (sodium  chloride), 
and  potassium  chloride.  If,  in  a  dilute  and  heated 
solution  strongly  acidulated  with  hydrochloric  acid, 
a  heavy  precipitate  is  formed  by  barium  chloride 
solution,  Glauber's  salt  may  be  supposed  to  be  pre- 
sent. An  admixture  of  rock-salt  is  recognized  by 
the  white  flakes  which  are  formed  in  an  aqueous 
solution  acidulated  with  nitric  acid  by  the  addition 
of  nitrate  of  silver.  Potassium  chloride  is  recognized 
in  the  solution  by  the  formation  of  a  white  crystal- 
line precipitate  on  adding  a  large  quantity  of  tartaric 
acid.  The  presence  of  carbonate  of  soda  is  shown 
by  the  effervescence  of  the  solution  on  adding  hy- 
drochloric acid. 

Borax  is  used  for  fixing  mineral  dye-stuffs,  as  an 
addition  to  starch,  and  as  a  substitute  for  alkalies 
(potash,  soda;. 

Hyposulphite  of  sodium  occurs  in  commerce  in 
large,  transparent,  colorless,  monoclinic  prisms  or 
plates,  which  have  the  specific  gravity  1.74,  are 
neutral  or  faintly  alkaline,  are  inodorous,  and  have 
a  cooling,  bitter,  slightly  alkaline,  and  sulphurous 
taste.  It  is  permanent  in  the  air,  soluble  at  a  med- 
ium temperature  in  less  than  an  equal  quantity  of 
water,  but  insoluble  in  spirits  of  wine.  By  adding 
an  acid  to  the  aqueous  solution  gaseous  sulphurous 
acid  escapes,  while  sulphur  separates  in  white  flakes. 


REMOVING   STAINS.  55 

It  is  used  as  a  bleaching  agent,  and  also  as  a  de- 
chlorizing  agent  for  fabrics  bleached  with  chlorine. 

Stannous  chloride,  or  tin  salt,  occurs  in  commerce 
in  a  solid  form  as  well  as  in  solution.  In  a  solid 
form  it  forms  white,  columnar  crystals  which  are 
readily  soluble  in  water,  and  have  an  acrid,  metallic 
taste.  It  being  poisonous  when  taken  internally, 
care  should  be  used  in  handling  it.  The  solution  of 
tin-salt  in  water  always  shows  a  more  or  less  milky 
turbidity. 

Chloride  of  lime  is  a  white  or  whitish  powder,  or  in 
friable  lumps,  dry  or  but  slightly  damp,  with  a  feeble 
odor  of  chlorine,  and  a  disagreeable  bitter  and  saline 
taste.  Under  certain  circumstances  it  may  undergo 
decomposition  on  keeping,  either  with  the  evolution 
of  oxygen,  or  by  conversion  into  a  mixture  of  chlor- 
ide and  chlorate  of  calcium.  On  exposure  to  the 
air  it  absorbs  and  combines  with  carbonic  acid  and 
becomes  moist.  It  has  an  alkaline  reaction,  but 
finally  bleaches  test-paper.  When  rubbed  with 
water  it  is  almost  entirely  dissolved,  the  lime  remain- 
ing behind.  This  forms  the  chloride  of  lime  solu- 
tion which  serves  as  a  basis  for  the  bleaching  and 
decolorizing  process,  and  for  the  preparation  of  the 
various  bleaching  fluids. 

Thus  the  well-known  eau  de  Javelle  is  obtained  by 
mixing  a  filtered  solution  of  I  part  of  chloride  of 
lime  in  12  parts  water  with  a  solution  of  potassium 
carbonate  (potash)  (i  part  potash  in  4  parts  water). 
The  mixture  is  allowed  to  settle  and  is  filtered. 

Chloride  of  lime  solution  in  the  same  manner  de- 


56   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

composed  by  alum  or  aluminium  sulphate  gives 
Wilson's  bleaching  fluid ;  and  by  sulphate  of  mag- 
nesium, Ramsey's  or  Grouvelle 's  bleaching  fluid. 
These  bleaching-fluids  are  colorless,  or  of  a  faintly 
yellowish  color.  They  are  extensively  used  for 
bleaching  textile  fibres,  fabrics,  and  wash-clothes, 
and  serve  also  for  removing  fruit  and  red-wine  stains 
from  the  latter. 

A  too  vigorous  action  of  the  chlorine  upon  the 
textile  fibre  is  counteracted  by  subsequent  immer- 
sion of  the  fabric  in  solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite 
or  ammonia. 

Chlorim-water. — This  is  less  frequently  used  than 
bleaching-fluid.  It  forms  a  clear,  greenish-yellow 
liquid,  possessing  the  suffocating  odor  and  acrid,  irri- 
tating taste  of  chlorine.  It  evaporates  without  leav- 
ing any  residue,  but  separates  crystals  of  chlorine 
hydrate  when  cooled  to  the  freezing-point  of  water. 

Tartaric  acid  crystallizes  in  colorless,  oblique, 
rhombic  prisms  or  tables,  which  are  inodorous  and 
have  a  strongly  acid  and  disagreeable  taste.  They 
have  the  specific  gravity  1.764,  dissolve  at  62.6°  F. 
in  0.6  part  of  water,  2  parts  of  85  per  cent,  alcohol, 
3.6  parts  of  absolute  alcohol,  23  parts  of  ether,  and 
250  parts  of  absolute  ether;  they  are  more  soluble 
in  the  same  liquids  at  the  boiling  temperature,  and 
are  likewise  soluble  in  methyl  alcohol  and  in  glycerin, 
but  insoluble  in  chloroform  and  benzine.  It  is  a 
complete  substitute  for  the  more  expensive — 

Citric  acid,  with  which  it  is  frequently  mixed,  and 
in  many  cases  even  sold  as  such.  Hence,  whenever 


REMOVING   STAINS.  57 

citric  acid  is  prescribed  tartaric  acid  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  it. 

Oxalic  acid  forms  flat,  oblique,  rhombic  prisms, 
which  are  colorless,  transparent,  not  deliquescent, 
inodorous,  of  a  strongly  acid  taste  and  reaction,  and 
soluble  in  about  8  parts  of  water  at  ordinary  temper- 
ature, and  in  nearly  all  proportions  of  boiling  water. 
They  dissolve  in  2^  parts  of  cold  and  1.8  parts  of 
boiling  strong  alcohol,  and  are  but  slightly  soluble 
in  ether.  Oxalic  acid  is  very  poisonous.  It  is 
rather  cheap,  and  as  in  some  cases  it  serves  as  a 
complete  substitute  for  tartaric  and  citric  acids,  it  is 
very  frequently  used. 

Acid  oxalate,  or  binoxalate,  of  potassium,  popu- 
larly called  salt  of  sorrel,  is  a  combination  of  oxalic 
acid  with  potassium  carbonate.  It  occurs  in  com- 
merce in  large  colorless  crystals  which  dissolve  with 
difficulty  in  water.  Oxalic  acid  as  well  as  acid  oxa- 
late  of  potassium  is  much  used  for  removing  stains. 

Hydrochloric  acid.  This  well-known  acid  should 
be  entirely  free  from  iron,  and,  hence,  should  not  be 
colored  red  by  sulphocyanide  of  potassium. 

Ox-gall  should  never  be  used  as  furnished  by 
abattoirs.  In  that  state  it  forms  a  green,  or  brown- 
ish-green, viscid,  transparent,  or  more  frequently 
translucent  fluid  of  a  peculiar,  disagreeable  odor.  It 
is  best  first  to  cleanse  it,  which  is  done  by  mixing  it 
in  a  bottle  with  an  equal  part  by  weight  of  90  per 
cent,  alcohol.  The  mixture  is  occasionally  agitated, 
then  set  aside,  filtered,  and  finally  evaporated  to  a 
syrupy  consistency,  or  to  complete  dryness.  In  this 


58        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

state  ox-gall  forms  a  clear  solution  in  water,  and  in 
90  per  cent,  alcohol. 

When  cleaning  dust  coats  it  is  best  to  go  over 
them  entirely  as  in  treating  them  partially  rings  are 
readily  formed.  Hems  and  seams,  as  well  as  lined 
cuffs  and  collars  should  be  treated  last,  slightly  moist. 
As  scouring  water  use  a  mixture  of  water  6  parts, 
ether  5  parts,  and  acetic  acid  I  part. 

In  case  stains  of  oil,  paint  or  other  difficult  stains 
are  found,  the  wet  article  is  best  treated  with  ben- 
zine, then  using  immediately  the  above-mentioned 
scouring  water,  and  finally  drying  thoroughly  with  a 
piece  of  buckskin. 

Morning  dresses,  rain  coats,  etc.,  which,  as  a  rule, 
are  only  soiled  around'  the  bottoms  are  treated  by 
moistening  the  stained  portions  with  water  acidulated 
with  acetic  acid,  or  if  the  color  will  stand  it,  with 
soap  water.  Then  rinse,  scour,  rinse  and  centrifuge. 

Stains  in  velvet  and  plush  are  removed  with  ether 
and  water,  brushing  against  the  grain  and  when  dry, 
with  the  grain.  For  dark  and  black  velvet,  alcohol 
is  very  suitable. 

In  removing  stains  from  lined  garments  it  is  ad- 
visable to  open,  if  possible,  a  seam,  and  push  a 
small  board  covered  with  linen  between  lining  and 
goods  to  prevent  the  former  from  becoming  wet. 

In  case  some  stains  cannot  be  completely  removed 
from  white  garments,  try  to  hide  them  as  much  as 
possible  by  covering  them  with  a  white  substance, 
such  as  starch,  gypsum,  magnesia,  or  talcum. 

The    following    scouring   water    may    be    advan-. 


REMOVING   STAINS.  59 

tageously  used  for  silk:  Distilled  water,  I  quart; 
ether,  I  quart;  acetic  acid,  ^  quart.  For  one- 
color,  acid-dyed  woolen  stuffs  use  only  distilled 
water  acidulated  with  acetic  acid ;  for  one-color 
woolen  stuffs  dyed  with  wood-dyes,  distilled  water 
with  an  addition  of  ammonia  and  ether ;  for  one- 
color  and  colored  half-wool  and  cotton  goods,  dis- 
tilled water  with  an  addition  of  ether;  for  colored 
woolen  and  half-wool  stuffs,  distilled  water  only ; 
for  black  and  white  half-wool  stuffs,  as  well  as  for 
striped  and  checkered,  a  scouring  water  consisting  of 
distilled  water,  i  quart;  ether,  i  pint,  and  4^  ozs. 
common  salt. 

In  removing  stains  the  operation  must  not  be 
carried  on  too  wet,  and  nothing  but  the  stain  to  be 
removed  should  be  treated.  The  spot  should  be 
dried  as  quickly  as  possible  to  prevent  the  formation 
of  rings,  which  is  frequently  the  case  in  working 
with  watery  substances.  Light-colored  silk  goods 
are  most  difficult  to  manipulate,  as  rings  are  likely 
to  form  and  the  places  to  be  treated  readily  lose 
lustre.  In  this  case  attempts  should  be  made  to 
dissolve  the  stain  or  remove  it  from  the  wrong  side 
of  the  goods.  This  refers  to  the  treatment  with 
water ;  benzine  and  ethereal  substances  may  be 
more  energetically  applied. 

As  auxiliary  agents  for  the  rapid  absorption  of 
water,  hygroscopic  substances  are  used,  plaster  of 
Paris  and  talcum  powder  being  particularly  suitable 
for  the  purpose.  When  a  stain  has  been  removed 
scatter  by  means  of  a  fine  sieve  plaster  of  Paris  over 


60        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

the  spot ;  the  layer  must  be  sufficiently  deep  to  ab- 
sorb all  the  water.  Then  hang  the  article  up,  and 
when  dry  remove  the  plaster  of  Paris  by  rubbing 
and  brushing.  This  process  is,  however,  suitable 
only  for  light-colored  goods.  For  dark-colored 
stuffs  terre  de  Sauniere  or  French  earth  is  used,  if  a 
piece  of  buckskin  does  not  suffice  for  the  absorption 
of  the  water. 

The  rings  formed  in  removing  stains  in  raw  silk 
garments,  as  well  as  water  and  rain  stains,  are  got 
rid  of  by  vigorous  steaming. 

Stains  which  have  not  been  dissolved  by  the  ben- 
zine in  dry  cleaning  are  in  most  cases  readily  re- 
moved by  carefully  applying  the  following  scouring 
water : 

Dissolve  in  5  quarts  of  distilled  water  2j^  ozs.  of 
common  salt  and  add  to  the  solution  8  ozs.  90  per 
cent,  alcohol  and  I  ^  ozs.  ether.  Shake  the  mixture 
thoroughly.  It  is  used  as  follows :  Moisten  a  clean 
rag  or  piece  of  soft  leather  with  the  mixture  and  try 
to  remove  the  stain  by  rubbing  very  carefully.  Silk 
or  goods  with  delicate  colors  has  to  be  manipulated 
with  special  care,  as  by  rubbing  too  vigorously  the 
colors  are  injured  and  a  whitish  shine  is  produced 
which  can  only  be  removed  by  re-dyeing.  This  rule 
not  only  applies  to  the  above-mentioned  scouring 
water,  but  to  the  removal  of  stains  in  general.  The 
lighter  and  the  more  skilled  the  hand  of  the  operator 
is,  the  better  for  the  article  to  be  cleaned. 

An  excellent  soap  for  the  removal  of  wine  and 
vinegar  stains  is  prepared  by  mixing  16  parts  of 


REMOVING   STAINS.  6 1 

ordinary  soap  with  2  parts  turpentine  and  I  part 
ammonia. 

A  good  soap  for  the  removal  of  all  kinds  of  stains 
is  prepared  as  follows :  Reduce  2  Ibs.  Castile  soap 
and  i  Ib.  cocoa-nut  soap  to  thin  shavings,  mix  with 
4%^  ozs.  alum,  I  oz.  alcohol,  8  ozs.  potash  solution, 
and  4^  ozs.  ox-gall,  and  heat.  The  next  day  add 
to  the  mass  2  quarts  of  alcohol,  4  fresh  eggs,  and  2 
ozs.  of  spirits  of  camphor,  and  stir  until  intimate 
combination  is  effected. 

A  good  soap  for  the  removal  of  stains  from  silk  is 
obtained  as  follows  :  Melt  2  parts  of  white  grain  soap 
and  add  I  part  Venice  turpentine  and  I  part  ox-gall. 
Stir  constantly  while  mixing  the  ingredients. 

Another  formula  is  as  follows  :  Saponify  1 1  Ibs.  of 
cocoa-nut  oil  and  6  Ibs.  of  tallow  with  8  Ibs.  of  soda 
lye  of  40°  Be.  To  the  soap  thus  obtained  add  12 
ozs.  turpentine,  13  ozs.  ox-gall,  and  about  i^  ozs. 
ultramarine  green. 

Ox  gall  is  subject  to  rapid  putrefaction  and  may 
be  preserved  as  follows :  Open  the  gall  bladder  and 
express  the  fluid.  Mix  100  parts  of  the  fluid  with 
7  parts  of  acetic  ether;  the  latter  must  of  course  be 
carefully  removed  at  the  time  the  gall  is  to  be  used. 

Another  soap  for  silk  tissues  has  the  following 
composition :  Reduce  9  Ibs.  of  grain  soap  to  very 
fine  shavings  and  mix  with  20  Ibs.  of  ox  gall. 
Evaporate  the  mixture  until  a  sample  solidifies  upon 
a  glass  plate.  Then  add  to  the  mass  while  it  is  still 
quite  hot,  a  mixture  of  10^  ozs.  sugar,  10^  ozs. 
honey,  8^  ozs.  Venice  turpentine  and  22^  ozs. 
ammonia. 


62    DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

For  the  removal  of  stains  from  calico,  the  follow- 
ing soap  may  be  used  to  advantage:  Mix  9  Ibs.  of 
white  soap  with  4^  Ibs.  of  ox  gall  and  14^  ozs.  of 
Venice  turpentine.  Ammonia  may  be  substituted 
for  ox  gall.  Reduce  4^  Ibs.  of  white  grain  soap  to 
shavings  and  heat  in  an  iron  kettle  in  a  water-bath 
together  with  2^  Ibs.  ammonia.  When  solution  is 
complete  add,  in  order  to  obtain  an  actually  solid 
soap,  7  ozs.  of  alcohol. 

Scouring-fluids. — a.  For  leather  and  tissues.  Ether 
i  part,  turpentine  4  parts. 

b.  Camphor  8  parts,  alcohol   I  part,  ether  I  part. 

c.  For  coarse  tissues.     Mix  I  part  of  ether  with  9 
parts  of  turpentine. 

Scouring-fluid  for  all  kinds  of  stains,  the  deriva- 
tion of  which  cannot  be  ascertained.  Dissolve  8  parts 
of  Castile  soap  in  30  parts  alcohol  and  add  I  part 
turpentine  and  the  yolks  of  4  eggs. 

Or:  Heat  to  the  boiling  point  20  parts  ox  gall, 
40  parts  borax,  500  parts  alcohol,  and  200  parts 
ammonia.  Then  add  30  parts  glycerin  and  the 
yolks  of  2  eggs. 

English  scouring-fluid  for  the  removal  of  stains  of 
resin,  acid,  wax,  tar  and  grease,  consists  of  100  parts 
by  weight  of  95  per  cent,  alcohol,  35  of  ammonia  of 
specific  gravity  0.875  and  *5  of  benzine.  Bring  the 
weighed  benzine  into  a  glass  vessel,  add  the  alcohol, 
shake  thoroughly,  and  finally  add  the  ammonia. 

Scouring  pencils,  a.  Soap  powder  70  parts,  pul- 
verized borax  10,  carbonate  of  magnesia  25,  fresh 
ox-gall  20,  soft  soap  10.  Dissolve  the  borax  in  the 


REMOVING   STAINS.  63 

ox-gall,  assisting  solution  by  rubbing,  then  mix  with 
the  solution,  in  very  small  portions  at  a  time,  the 
carbonate  of  magnesia,  gradually  add  the  soap  pow- 
der and  sufficient  soft  soap  to  obtain  a  mass  of  a 
doughy  consistency.  Scatter  magnesia  powder  upon 
a  smooth  board,  roll  the  mass  out  into  long  sticks 
and  cut  up  the  latter  into  suitable  size. 

b.  Mix  30  parts  of  quillaia  extract  and  30  parts  of 
borax  and  make  the  mixture  into  a  stiff  mass  with 
1 20  parts  of  fresh  ox-gall  and  about  450  parts  of 
soap  powder.  Form  the  mass  into  sticks. 

Schwemmer  s  scotiring  fluid.  This  is  a  patented 
article.  The  solution  of  ammonia  in  alcohol  and 
ether  frequently  used  for  the  removal  of  stains  is  so 
mixed  with  turpentine  that  on  shaking,  the  fluids 
form  an  emulsion  which  remains  constant  during  the 
operation  of  scouring.  A  suitable  mixture  consists 
of  4  ozs.  turpentine,  4  ozs.  ammonia,  2  ozs.  alcohol, 
2  ozs.  ether,  and  2  ozs.  acetic  ether. 

Dust  stains  are  best  removed  by  thorough  beating 
and  brushing.  Old,  dried-in  stains  in  fabrics  of 
wool,  silk,  satin,  etc.,  are  brushed  over  with  a  little 
yolk  of  egg  mixed  with  alcohol,  which  is  allowed  to 
dry  and  then  scraped  off.  Any  adhering  yolk  of 
egg  is  finally  removed  by  means  of  a  clean  linen  rag 
and  warm  water. 

Stains  of  unknown  derivation  in  plain  or  dyed 
cotton  goods  are  first  treated  with  a  very  weak,  luke- 
warm solution  of  soap,  to  each  quart  of  which  a 
teaspoonful  of  ammonia  has  been  added.  Washing 
is  effected  with  a  sponge  or  tampion  dipped  into  the 
fluid.  The  fabric  is  finally  washed  in  water. 


64       DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

It  may  here  be  again  remarked  that  before  at- 
tempting the  removal  of  stains,  an  experiment  should 
in  all  cases  be  made  on  a  portion  of  the  fabric  where, 
if  a  change  in  the  color  should  take  place,  it  would 
be  least  noticed. 

For  cleaning  woolen  goods,  especially  when  col- 
ored, prepare  a  mixture  of  20  parts  ox-gall,  40  parts 
borax,  200  parts  water  of  ammonia,  and  500  parts 
alcohol.  When  solution  is  complete,  add  30  parts 
glycerin  and  the  yolk  of  2  eggs. 

Wash  the  fabric  in  the  boiling  solution,  using  a 
wooden  spoon  for  handling  it.  Then  rinse  it  in  clean 
warm  water  and  dry  it  in  the  air,  but  not  in  the  sun. 

Silk,  satin,  etc.,  are  treated  with  a  solution  of  40 
parts  borax,  and  10  parts  soap  in  70  parts  dilute 
alcohol,  and  30  parts  ether.  Add  to  the  solution 
the  yolks  of  2  eggs  and  10  parts  carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia. Thoroughly  shake  the  mixture  before  use 
and  apply  it  to  the  stains.  Then  wash  in  lukewarm 
water,  rinse  in  cold  water,  and  dry  at  a  moderate 
heat.  Smooth  with  a  moderately  warm  iron.  Any 
adhering  particles  of  magnesia  are  removed  with  a 
brush. 

Grease  stains,  recent  as  well  as  old,  are  best  re- 
moved by  dry  cleaning.  A  good  plan  of  dealing 
with  oil  stains  is  to  rub  them  over  with  a  little  oleic 
acid,  allow  this  to  soak  in,  then  treat  the  stains  with 
soap  and  water,  which  will,  as  a  rule,  be  found  effec- 
tive in  removing  them.  However,  as  the  fabric  may 
be  affected  by  the  soap,  the  following  plan  may  be 
recommended :  Wet  the  fabrics,  with  the  exception 


REMOVING    STAINS.  65 

of  silk,  and  after  placing  several  thicknesses  of  blot- 
ting-paper under  the  stained  portions,  rub  with  a 
tampion  and  a  sponge  dipped  in  benzine  or  turpen- 
tine. When  the  stain  has  disappeared  from  the  sur- 
face, place  a  piece  of  blotting-paper  upon  it  and  pass 
a  hot  flat-iron  several  times  over  it.  The  entire 
fabric  is  finally  washed  in  warm  soap-water,  to  which 
ammonia  has  been  added,  or,  still  better,  in  a  warm 
decoction  of  soaproot  or  of  quillaia-bark. 

The  use  of  benzine  for  the  removal  of  grease  spots 
has  the  disadvantage  that  a  spotty  appearance  is 
frequently  left  on  the  fabric.  To  overcome  this  de- 
fect, the  use  of  the  following  preparations  has  been 
recommended : 

Benzinized  magnesia. — This  is  prepared  by  mix- 
ing calcined  magnesia  (not  carbonate  of  magnesia) 
with  just  sufficient  pure  benzine  so  as  to  moisten  it 
without  being  pasty.  It  should  be  just  wet  enough 
so  that  when  the  mass  is  pressed  between  the  fingers, 
a  small  quantity  of  liquid  benzine  is  squeezed  out. 
In  this  state  it  forms  a  crummy  mass  which  is  kept 
for  use  in  a  well-corked,  somewhat  wide-mouthed, 
glass  bottle.  For  use  spread  the  preparation  quite 
thickly  over  the  stains  and  rub  it  thoroughly  to  and 
fro  with  the  tip  of  the  finger.  Brush  off  the  small 
lumps  of  earthy  matter  thus  formed,  lay  on  more  of 
the  preparation,  alllowing  it  to  remain  until  the  ben- 
zine has  entirely  evaporated,  and  then  brush  off  the 
adhering  particles  of  magnesia. 

Gelatinized  benzine  may  be  used  in  the  same 
manner,  it  being  in  many  cases  preferable  to  ben- 
5 


66        DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

zinized  magnesia.  It  is  prepared  by  dissolving  in  a 
quart  bottle  120  parts  of  soap  in  180  parts  of  hot 
water  and  adding  30  parts  of  ammonia.  Then  add 
sufficient  water  to  fill  the  bottle  three-quarters  full, 
next  sufficient  benzine  to  fill  it  entirely,  and  shake. 

Of  this  solution,  mix  one  teaspoonful  in  a  half- 
pint  bottle  with  some  benzine,  and,  after  mixing,  fill 
the  bottle  with  benzine,  shaking  constantly.  With 
this  gelatine,  stains  of 'all  sorts  can  be  removed 
without  risk  of  injury  to  even  the  most  delicate 
colors.  However,  if,  on  account  of  the  employment 
of  benzine,  the  formation  of  circles,  rings,  etc.,  is 
feared,  scatter  upon  the  place,  while  still  wet,  plaster 
of  Paris  or  talcum,  which  after  drying  is  brushed  off. 

In  many  cases,  especially  when  the  grease-stains 
are  fresh,  the  damage  may  be  remedied  by  the  use 
of  ammonia  or  weak  soda  solution,  and  subsequent 
washing.  From  silk  fabrics  grease-stains  are  re- 
moved with  benzinized  magnesia  or  gelatinized  ben 
zine;  etherized  magnesia,  which  is  prepared  in  a 
similar  manner  as  benzinized  magnesia,  being,  how- 
ever, preferable  for  the  purpose. 

Etherized  magnesia  is  prepared  by  mixing  calcined 
magnesia  with  sufficient  ether  to  form  a  thin  paste, 
which  is  spread  over  the  stains.  When  the  ether 
has  vaporized,  brush  off  the  magnesia  spot  and 
finally  rub  with  a  piece  of  soft  white  bread.  Under 
certain  conditions,  etherized  magnesia  as  well  as 
alcohol,  may,  however,  act  energetically  upon  colors. 

All  stains  of  a  fatty  nature  disappear  by  thorough 
chemical  cleaning,  and  there  remain  behind  only  the 


REMOVING   STAI1S7S.  67 

so-called  "  water-stains  "  due  to  milk,  soup,  beer, 
etc.,  which  can  be  brushed  out  with  water.  Such 
stains  as  well  as  those  of  coffee,  wine,  sugar  and  tea 
disappear  from  white  goods  by  treatment  with  luke- 
warm soap  solution  and  thorough  washing  with 
water.  Checked  and  all  other  stuffs  for  which  soap 
cannot  be  used  are  treated  with  cold  water  slightly 
acidulated  with  acetic  acid,  which  generally  accom- 
plishes the  object  and  does  not  injure  even  the  most 
delicate  colors.  When  the  entire  front  of  a  coat  is 
covered  with  smaller  and  larger  stains  of  this  nature 
it  is  best  to  work  from  seam  to  seam,  spreading  the 
coat  upon  the  scouring  board,  brushing  it  thoroughly 
and  quickly  with  water,  and  absorbing  the  latter  at 
once  with  a  piece  of  buckskin.  Special  attention 
must  be  paid  to  the  lining  because  by  pressure  it 
frequently  produces  darker  stains.  Care  must  also 
be  had  that  the  coat  does  not  lose  shape  by  this 
treatment  and  that  the  stiffening  and  interlining  are 
not  shifted  ;  hence  as  little  water  as  possible  should 
be  used. 

Very  old  grease  stains  are  first  treated  with  chloro- 
form and  then  with  benzinized  magnesia.  Stains  of 
solid  fats,  such  as  tallow,  lard,  wax,  paraffine,  cere- 
sine,  etc.,  are  first  softened  with  castor  oil  and  then 
treated  as  above.  Saponification  of  the  grease  in 
the  tissues  by  the  use  of  ammonia  or  soda  lye  can- 
not be  recommended  for  wool  and  silk,  and  for 
cotton  and  linen  only  when  the  colors  are  fast  to 
soap ;  with  these  materials  satisfactory  results  are, 
as  a  rule,  also  obtained  with  ether,  benzine  or  chloro- 
form. 


68   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Grease  stains  upon  the  back  of  garments  caused 
by  long  hair  are  removed  by  rubbing  with  a  piece 
of  cotton  dipped  in  the  following  mixture  :  Ammonia 
4  spoonfuls,  common  salt  I  spoonful ;  shake  thor- 
oughly. Or,  dissolve  a  small  quantity  of  gall  soap 
in  water,  moisten  a  small  brush  with  the  solution, 
brush  the  stains  and  rinse  in  clean  water. 

Paint  and  varnish  stains  are  first  treated  with 
pure  turpentine.  Old  stains  are  best  removed  by 
repeated  applications  of  a  mixture  of  turpentine  and 
chloroform,  the  solvent  being  allowed  to  soak  well 
in  before  the  application  of  blotting  paper  as  de- 
scribed under  "  grease  stains."  Chloroform  by  it- 
self is  also  an  excellent  solvent  for  old  stains  and  the 
removal  of  the  latter  with  benzinized  magnesia  is 
then  readily  effected. 

Stains  of  resin,  tar,  or  wagon-grease.  To  remove 
these  and .  similar  stains  from  white  goods,  moisten 
the  fabric,  rub  the  stain  with  a  sponge  dipped  in 
turpentine,  place  blotting-paper  beneath  and  on  top 
of  the  grease  spot,  and  pass  a  hot  iron  several  times 
over  it.  Finally  wash  the  entire  fabric  in  warm  soap 
water.  Colored  cotton  or  woolen  fabrics  are  mois- 
tened, the  stains  thoroughly  soaped  and  after  allow- 
ing the  soap  to  act  for  a  few  minutes,  washed  alter- 
nately with  turpentine  and  water. 

If  the  stains  do  not  yield  to  this  treatment,  spread 
a  mixture  of  yolk  of  egg  and  turpentine  over  the 
stains ;  when  dry  scrape  it  off,  and  finally  wash  in 
hot  water. 

As  a  final  means,  the   fabric  may  be  washed  in 


REMOVING   STAINS.  69 

water  to  which  some  hydrochloric  acid  has  been 
added,  and  thoroughly  rinsed  in  soft  water. 

Articles  of  silk,  satin,  etc.,  are  moistened,  and  the 
stains  rubbed  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  a  mixture  of 
ether  and  chloroform.  When  the  stain  has  disap- 
peared scatter  bole  (pipe-clay)  upon  the  place,  cover 
with  blotting-paper,  and  pass  a  hot  iron  several 
times  over  it. 

If  the  stain  has  not  disappeared,  mix  yolk  of  egg 
with  chloroform,  spread  the  mixture  over  the  stain, 
allow  it  to  dry,  then  scrape  off,  and  treat  as  pre- 
viously described. 

Stearin  and  wax-stains  are  carefully  removed  as 
much  as  possible  with  a  knife.  Then  place  a  wet 
linen  rag  beneath  and  blotting-paper  on  top  of  the 
stain  and  pass  a  warm  flat-iron  over  it. 

If  the  stain  is  inaccessible  with  the  flat-iron,  treat 
it  with  chloroform,  which  will  surely  remove  it. 

Fruit-stains  disappear  from  linen  goods  (table- 
cloths, napkins,  handkerchiefs,  etc.),  by  rinsing  in 
can  de  Javelle  or  another  bleaching-fltiid,  or  in  weak 
solution  of  chloride  of  lime,  which  must,  however, 
be  perfectly  clear,  and  to  which  some  vinegar  may 
be  added.  When  the  fabric  is  clean,  it  is  thoroughly 
rinsed  in  running  water  and  best  drawn  through  a 
solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite,  or  of  soda. 

White  cotton  goods  may  be  treated  in  a  similar 
manner.  Fruit-stains  frequently  disappear  by  simply 
washing  in  soap-water  to  which  some  borax  or  am- 
monia has  been  added. 

Woolen  goods  are  either  immersed  in  a  weak  so- 


/O        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

lution  of  sulphurous  acid,  or  subjected  to  the  action 
of  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda  for  about  one 
hour,  and  then  brought  into  a  solution  of  tartaric 
acid,  where  they  remain  until  the  stain  has  dis- 
appeared. They  are  finally  washed  in  water  to 
which  some  bicarbonate  of  soda  has  been  added. 

For  colored  goods  the  above-mentioned  methods 
cannot  be  used,  it  being  first  necessary  to  make  an 
experiment  to  see  whether  the  colors  will  stand  chlo- 
rine or  sulphurous  acid,  i.  e.,  whether  they  are  likely 
to  be  changed  or  perhaps  entirely  destroyed  by  the 
action  of  these  agents.  If  the  colors  will  stand  soap, 
the  stains  will  disappear  by  washing  in  tepid  soap 
solution,  or  in  a  decoction  of  soap-root  or  quillaia 
bark,  otherwise  they  will  have  to  be  covered  by 
dyeing. 

S fains  of  red  wine,  cherries,  -whortleberries,  etc.,  in 
white  goods  are  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  fruit- 
stains. 

Stains  of  wine  may  be  quickly  and  easily  removed 
from  linen  by  dipping  the  stained  parts  into  boiling 
milk,  the  milk  to  be  kept  boiling  until  the  stain  dis- 
appears. 

Milk  and  coffee-stains.  Apply  a  mixture  of  yolk 
of  egg  and  glycerin,  then  wash  in  warm  water,  and 
while  still  moist,  iron  the  fabrics  upon  the  wrong 
side  with  a  flat-iron  which  should  not  be  too  hot. 

As  a  rule,  milk-  and  coffee-stains  are  difficult  to 
remove,  especially  from  light-colored  and  finely 
finished  goods.  From  woolen  and  mixed  fabrics 
they  are  taken  out  by  moistening  them  with  a  mix- 


REMOVING   STAINS.  /I 

ture  of  i  part  glycerin,  9  parts  water,  and  ^  part 
ammonia.  This  mixture  is  applied  to  the  goods 
by  means  of  a  brush  and 'allowed  to  remain  for  12 
hours,  occasionally  renewing  the  moistening.  After 
this  the  stained  pieces  are  pressed  between  cloth 
and  then  rubbed  with  a  clean  rag.  Drying,  and  if 
possible  a  little  steaming,  are  generally  sufficient  to 
thoroughly  remove  the  stains. 

Stains  on  silk  garments  which  are  dyed  with  deli- 
cate colors,  or  finely  finished,  are  more  difficult  to 
remove.  In  this  case  5  parts  of  glycerin  are  mixed 
with  5  parts  of  water,  and  ^{  part  of  ammonia 
added.  Before  using  this  mixture  it  should  be 
tried  on  some  part  of  the  garments  where  it  will 
not  be  noticed,  in  order  to  see  if  the  mixture  will 
change  the  color.  If  such  is  the  case,  no  ammonia 
should  be  added.  If,  on  the  contrary,  no  change 
takes  place,  or  if,  after  drying,  the  original  color  is 
restored,  the  above  mixture  is  applied  with  a  soft 
brush,  allowing  it  to  remain  on  the  stains  for  6  to  8 
hours,  and  is  then  rubbed  with  a  clean  cloth.  The 
remaining  dry  substance  is  then  carefully  taken  off 
by  means  of  a  knife.  The  damaged  places  are  now 
brushed  over  with  clean  water,  pressed  between 
cloths,  and  dried.  If  the  stain  is  not  then  removed, 
rubbing  with  dry  bread  will  cause  it  to  disappear. 
To  restore  the  finish,  a  thin  solution  of  gum  arabic 
— in  many  cases  beer  is  preferred — is  brushed  on, 
then  dried,  and  carefully  ironed.  By  the  careful 
manipulation  above  mentioned  stains  will  be  success- 
fully removed. 


72        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Soup- stains,  as  well  as  smaller  grease-stains  in  gen- 
eral, are  removed  by  washing  in  hot  water  to  which 
some  soda,  or  borax,  or  ammonia  has  been  added. 

Stains  on  cotton  goods  need  only  be  rubbed  with 
rectified  oil  of  turpentine  or  benzine.  The  surplus  of 
the  solvent  is  then  removed  with  blotting-paper  and 
the  fabric  washed  in  clean  soap-water,  whereby  the 
stains  will  be  successfully  removed. 

Silk  fabrics  are  treated  in  the  same  manner,  ether 
or  chloroform  being,  however,  preferred  to  benzine. 

Stains  of  beer,  wine,  punch,  sugar,  gelatine,  glue, 
etc.  Comparatively  speaking,  these  stains  are  very 
readily  removed,  simple  washing  in  clean,  tepid  soap- 
water  being  in  most  cases  sufficient.  It  necessary, 
the  fabric  may  be  washed  in  eau  de  Javelle  or  an- 
other bleaching-fluid,  or  in  perfectly-clear  solution 
of  chloride  of  lime  to  which  some  vinegar  has  been 
added.  It  is  finally  thoroughly  rinsed  in  water,  or, 
still  better,  in  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda. 

Grass-stains  are  removed  from  linerr  goods  by 
washing  in  boiling  water  or  by  treating  with  a 
bleaching-fluid. 

Another  plan  is  to  wash  the  stained  places  in  clean, 
cold  soft  water,  without  soap,  before  the  garment  is 
otherwise  wet. 

Grass- stains  on  cotton,  woolen,  or  silk  fabrics  are 
removed  by  moistening  them  with  chloride  of  tin  and 
immediately  washing  in  a  large  quantity  of  water. 

Stains  from  green  nuts,  as  well  as  so-called  tannin- 
stains,  are  repeatedly  washed  with  water  and  alcohol, 
then  treated  with  dilute  chlorine-water,  pure,  per- 


REMOVING   STAINS.  73 

fectly  clear  chloride  of  lime  solution  acidulated  with 
vinegar,  or  one  of  the  various  bleaching-fluids,  and 
finally  washed  in  much  water. 

Acid  stains,  when  fresh,  disappear  by  moistening 
them  with  ammonia  or  soda  solution,  the  original 
color  being  in  almost  all  cases  restored  by  the  sub- 
sequent application  of  chloroform. 

Old  stains  resist  all  reagents  and  have  to  be  re- 
dyed. 

Nitric  acid  stains.  These  stains  are  generally  of 
a  yellow  color,  and,  when  fresh,  can  be  removed  from 
brown  or  black  woolen  garments  by  moistening  them 
for  a  while  with  concentrated  solution  of  permanga- 
nate of  potash  and  rinsing  with  water.  Old  stains 
are  brushed  over  with  nitrate  of  silver  solution, 
whereby  they  acquire  a  black  color. 

Stains  of  wine-vinegar,  sour  wine,  etc.,  are  re- 
moved by  neutralizing  the  acid  with  water  of  am- 
monia, soda,  or  a  similar  agent. 

Lye-  and  lime-stains  disappear  from  linen  fabrics 
by  washing.  From  cotton,  woolen,  and  silk  goods 
the  stains  are  removed  by  carefully  applying  to  them, 
drop  by  drop,  any  acid  (with  the  exception  of  sul- 
phuric and  tartaric  acids),  until  they  have  disap- 
peared, and  then  thoroughly  washing.  Hydrochloric 
acid  free  from  iron  is  best  suited  for  the  purpose. 

Urine  stains  are  treated  with  alcohol  or  dilute  cit- 
ric acid  solution  and  the  place  where  the  stain  has 
been  is  revived  with  chloroform. 

Perspiration  stains  are  removed  from  woolen  and 
cotton  goods  with  sodium  hyposulphite  solution  and 


74        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

subsequent  washing  with  water;  from  silk  and  satin 
also  with  dilute  sodium  hyposulphite  solution,  or 
from  silk  with  strong  salt  water  in  which  the  article 
is  allowed  to  remain  3  to  4  hours.  From  worsted 
and  cheviot  garments  perspiration  stains  are  removed 
by  brushing  with  benzine  and  finally  by  washing 
with  soap  and  water.  If,  as  is  frequently  the  case, 
the  ground  color  of  colored  goods  is  injured  by  this 
process,  it  has  to  be  remedied  by  re-dyeing. 

Perspiration  stains  are  removed  from  woolen  goods 
with  distilled  water  and  a  small  quantity  of  castile 
soap  solution  by  brushing  the  spot  and  then  rinsing 
to  remove  all  the  soap  ;  the  spot  is  finally  moistened 
with  saccharic  acid  solution.  Subsequent  thorough 
washing  is  absolutely  necessary,  as  otherwise  the 
lining  would  be  burned  by  the  remaining  acid.  Silk 
articles  as  well  as  cotton  goods  are  treated  in  the 
same  manner,  chlorine  instead  of  saccharic  acid 
being,  however,  used  for  the  latter.  By  reason  of 
the  varying  constitution  of  the  stuffs  no  general  rule 
can,  however,  be  laid  down  and  the  removal  of  such 
stains  has  to  be  done  by  a  skilled  hand. 

Perspiration  stains  may  also  be  removed  with  a 
mixture  of  i  part  ammonia,  3  parts  alcohol  and  3 
parts  ether.  From  white  linen  and  cotton  goods 
they  are  removed  by  rational  washing  with  soap. 

Uniform  facings,  cuffs,  pocket  flaps,  etc.,  of  a  red 
or  other  color,  when  soiled  by  perspiration  are  first 
chemically  cleaned  with  benzine  soap.  They  are 
next  thoroughly  brushed  and  rinsed  in  clean  benzine. 
When  the  benzine  has  evaporated,  they  are  again 


REMOVING   STAINS.  75 

thoroughly  brushed  with  lukewarm  water  to  which 
ammonia  has  been  added,  then  rinsed  by  means  of  a 
sponge  with  lukewarm  water  and  dried  with  a  flannel 
rag  of  the  same  color  as  the  goods.  By  the  appli- 
cation of  the  water  and  ammonia,  the  dirt  imme- 
diately dissolves  so  that  it  can  be  removed  with  the 
finger  nail  or  a  dull  knife. 

Greasy  shine  of  mens'  worn  worsted  or  cheviot 
garments  is  removed  be  gently  rubbing  the  shiny 
places  with  glass  or  emery  paper,  and  then  vigor- 
ously vaporizing  by  means  of  a  moist  cloth  and  hot 
iron,  or  by  steaming.  If  the  color  of  the  goods 
allows,  the  places  may  also  be  thoroughly  brushed 
with  alum  solution,  dried  and  ironed  while  quite  damp. 

Nitrate  of  silver  stains  in  white  goods  are  re- 
moved with  a  fluid  consisting  of  100  parts  by  weight 
of  distilled  water,  4  parts  by  weight  of  ammonia,  and 
4  parts  by  weight  of  chloride  of  mercury.  The 
same  object  is  more  rapidly  effected  with  potassium 
cyanide  solution,  but  this  substance  being  extremely 
poisonous,  great  care  is  required  as  well  as  subse- 
quent thorough  washing. 

Aniline  color  stains.  Red  stains  due  to  aniline 
color  are  removed  with  hot  alcohol  or  with  soda 
solution  heated  to  122°  F.,  provided  the  ground 
color  is  sufficiently  fast  not  to  be  attacked  by  the  soda. 

Ink  stains.  These  may  be  due  to  aniline  ink  and 
nutgall  ink. 

In  the  first  case  the  stains — provided  they  are  not 
on  silk  fabrics — will  generally  yield  to  washing  in 
soap-water,  in  a  bleaching  fluid,  or  in  alcohol  acidu- 
lated with  vinegar. 


76        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

The  removal  of  stains,  due  to  nut-gall  ink,  is  more 
difficult.  If  not  too  old,  stains  on  linen  fabrics  some- 
times yield  by  laying  the  latter  in  a  bleaching  fluid 
or  chloride  of  lime  solution,  allowing  them  to  remain 
for  some  time.  In  applying  these  substances  great 
care  must  be  taken,  especially  with  bleaching  fluid, 
not  to  use  them  .too  strong,  or  they  will  act  upon  the 
fabric  and  destroy  it. 

The  stains  also  frequently  disappear  by  treating 
them  with  a  concentrated  solution  of  oxalic,  tartaric, 
or  hydrochloric  acid. 

A  peculiar  method  of  treating  ink  stains,  as  well 
as  iron-mould  stains,  is  as  follows :  Scatter  upon  the 
moistened  stain  pulverized  oxalic  acid  and  rub  it 
into  the  tissue  with  a  bright  piece  of  iron  ;  or  stretch 
the  stained  portion  of  the  fabric  over  a  heated  bright 
tin  pot  or  tin  plate,  and  rub  in  the  powdered  oxalic 
acid.  The  action  is  the  more  effective  the  more 
intimately  the  stain  is  brought  in  contact  with  the 
heated  metal. 

To  produce  the  best  effect  it  is  only  necessary  to 
scatter  fine  tin  dust  or  tin  shavings  upon  the  stain 
previously  moistened  with  hot  oxalic  acid  solution. 
The  stain  disappears  as  if  by  magic. 

Another  method  is  as  follows :  Mix  equal  parts  of 
cream  of  tartar  and  citric  acid,  powdered  fine.  This 
forms  the  salt  of  lemons  as  sold  by  druggists.  Pro- 
cure a  hot  dinner-plate,  lay  the  part  stained  on  the 
plate,  and  moisten  with  hot  water ;  next  rub  in  the 
above-mentioned  powder  with  the  bowl  of  a  spoon 
until  the  stain  disappears ;  then  rinse  in  clean  water 
and  dry. 


REMOVING   STAINS.  77 

The  stain  may  also  be  washed  in  a  solution  of 
yellow  prussiate  of  potash  to  which  sulphuric  acid 
has  been  added,  and  the  blue  spot  thereby  formed 
removed  by  rinsing  in  potash  solution.  If,  after 
this,  a  yellow  stain  should  remain,  it  is  removed  with 
sulphuric  acid. 

Beschorner  recommends  the  following  process : 
Place  the  linen  fabric  in  a  mixture  of  15  parts  dis- 
tilled water  and  2  parts  hydrochloric  acid,  allow  it  to 
remain  in  the  mixture  for  half  an  hour,  then  wash 
thoroughly  in  clean  water,  and  pour  ammonium  sul- 
phide over  the  still  moist  stain  ;  the  latter  operation 
should  be  conducted  in  the  open  air.  After  ten 
minutes,  when  the  iron  has  been  converted  into  fer- 
rous sulphide,  rinse  the  linen  in  clean  water,  pour  a 
mixture  of  I  part  hydrochloric  acid  and  15  parts  dis- 
tilled water  over  it,  and  again  rinse  in  clean  water. 

Fresh  ink-stains  on  cotton  or  woolen  goods  are 
generally  removed  by  allowing  a  drop  of  grease  from 
a  burning  tallow  candle  to  fall  upon  the  stain,  and 
washing  in  a  concentrated  solution  of  pyrophosphate 
of  soda.  The  older  the  stain  the  more  thoroughly 
it  has  to  be  washed. 

For  stains  on  fabrics  dyed  with  fast  colors,  chloride 
of  lime  or  tartaric  acid  may  be  used. 

Old  ink-stains  are  washed  in  dilute  chloride  of  tin 
solution,  and  the  fabric  thoroughly  rinsed  in  soft  water. 

From  silk  fabrics  ink-stains,  as  a  rule,  cannot  be 
removed,  the  only  remedy  being  to  re-dye  the 
stained  portions. 

If  the  colors  of  the  fabric  permit,  the  stain  may  be 


78   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

moistened  with  strong  vinegar,  covered  for  some  time 
with  beechwood  ash,  and  finally  washed  in  strong 
soap-water. 

From  scarlet  woolen  fabrics  black  ink-stains  can 
be  readily  removed  by  moistening  the  stain  with 
cold  water  by  means  of  a  white  rag,  then  applying  a 
few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  and  after  the  disappearance 
of  the  black  stain  washing  with  clean  cold  water. 

Iron  and  rust  stains  may  generally  be  removed  in 
the  same  manner  as  ink-stains.  They  frequently 
disappear  readily  and  rapidly  by  placing  the  fabrics 
in  a  bleaching  fluid  or  a  clear  solution  of  chloride  of 
lime  acidulated  with  acetic  acid,  and  finally  thorough 
washing  in  water. 

The  stains  also  disappear  in  boijing  solution  of 
tartaric  acid.  Very  good  results  are  frequently  ob- 
tained by  the  use  of  hot  solutions  of  oxalic,  tartaric 
or  citric  acid. 

The  removal  of  iron  or  rust  stains,  which  at  the 
same  time  form  oil  or  fat  stains,  is,  however,  more 
difficult.  It  may  most  readily  be  accomplished  by 
washing  in  a  bath  of  I  part  soft  soap,  I  part  glycerin, 
and  3  parts  water. 

When  stain's  are  to  be  removed  from  dyed  fab- 
rics, a  preliminary  test  should  be  made  to  ascertain 
the  behavior  of  the  dye  towards  the  reagent,  this  be- 
ing especially  necessary  with  fabrics  upon  which  the 
coloring  matter  is  not  fixed,  and  which  yield  the 
latter  by  simple  treatment  with  water  or  soap-water. 

The  following  table  gives  at  a  glance  the  best 
means  of  cleaning  all  kinds  of  fabrics  from  any  stain. 


REMOVING    STAINS. 


79 


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80   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

The  preceding  table  and  the  receipts  previously 
given,  together  with  the  directions  which  follow, 
afford  a  ready  means  of  determing  the  proper  method 
of  procedure.  Taking  out  grease  and  other  spots 
from  clothes  is  an  application  of  chemistry  which 
has  a  practical  interest  for  everybody.  It  demands 
a  certain  acquaintance  with  solvents  and  reagents, 
even  though  the  laws  of  chemical  affinity  on  which 
their  action  depends  may  not  be  understood.  The 
general  principle  is  the  applying  to  the  spot  of  a 
substance  which  has  a  stronger  affinity  for  the  mat- 
ter composing  it  than  this  has  for  cloth,  and  which 
will  render  it  soluble  in  some  liquid  so  that  it  can  be 
washed  out.  At  the  same  time  it  must  be  something 
that  will  not  injure  the  texture  of  the  fabric  or  change 
its  color. 

The  following  directions  apply  especially  to  the 
garment  dyer : 

Steam  has  the  property  of  softening  fatty  matters 
and  thus  facilitating  their  removal  by  reagents. 

Sulphuric  acid  may  be  employed  in  certain  cases, 
especially  to  brighten  and  raise  greens,  reds,  and 
yellows,  but  it  must  be  diluted  with  at  least  100 
times  its  weight  of  water  or  more,  according  to  the 
delicacy  of  the  shades. 

Hydrochloric  acid  is  used  with  success  for  remov- 
ing spots  of  ink  and  iron-mould  upon  a  great  num- 
ber of  colors  which  it  does  not  sensibly  affect. 

Sulphurous  acid  is  only  used  for  bleaching  un- 
dyed  goods,  straw  hats,  etc.,  and  for  removing  fruit- 
stains  upon  white  woolen  and  silk  fabrics.  The 


REMOVING   STAINS.  8 1 

fumes  of  burning  sulphur  are  also  employed  for  this 
purpose,  but  the  liquid  acid  (or  a  solution  of  the 
bisulphite — not  bisulphate — or  soda  or  magnesia)  is 
safer. 

Oxalic  acid  serves  for  removing  spots  of  ink  and 
iron,  and  the  residues  of  mud-spots  which  do  not 
yield  to  other  cleansing  agents.  It  may  also  be  em- 
ployed for  destroying  the  stains  of  fruit  and  astrin- 
gent juices,  and  stains  of  urine  which  have  long  been 
upon  any  tissue.  Nevertheless  it  is  best  confined  to 
undyed  goods,  as  it  attacks  not  only  fugitive  colors, 
but  also  certain  of  the  lighter  fast  colors.  The  best 
method  of  applying  it  is  to  dissolve  it  in  cold  or  luke- 
warm water,  and  to  let  a  little  of  the  solution  remain 
upon  the  spot  before  rubbing  it  with  the  hands. 

Citric  acid  serves  to  revive  and  raise  certain  colors, 
especially  greens  and  yellows ;  it  destroys  the  effect 
of  alkalies  or  any  bluish  or  crimson  spots  which  ap- 
pear upon  scarlets.  In  its  stead  acetic  acid  may  be 
employed. 

Ammonia  is  the  most  energetic  and  useful  agent 
employed  for  cleaning  tissues  and  silk  hats,  and  for 
quickly  neutralizing  the  effects  of  acids.  In  the 
latter  case  it  is  often  sufficient  to  expose  the  goods 
to  the  fumes  of  this  alkali  in  order  to  remove  such 
spots  entirely.  Ammonia  gives  a  violet  cast  to  all 
shades  produced  with  cochineal,  lac,  the  redwoods, 
or  logwood,  and  all  colors  topped  with  cochineal. 
It  does  not  deteriorate  silks,  but  at  elevated  temper- 
atures it  perceptibly  attacks  woolens.  It  serves  to 
restore  the  black  upon  silks  damaged  by  damp. 
6 


82   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Carbonate  of  soda  (soda  crystals)  serves  equally 
in  most  of  the  cases  where  ammonia  is  employed. 
It  is  good  for  hats  affected  by  sweat.  Soda -and 
potash  only  serve  for  white  goods,  of  linen,  hemp, 
or  cotton,  because  these  alkalies  attack  colors  and 
injure  the  tenacity  and  suppleness  of  woolens  and 
silks.  For  the  same  reason  white  soap  only  is  to  be 
recommended  for  cleaning  white  woolen  tissues. 

Mottled  soaps  serve  for  cleaning  heavy  stuffs  of 
woolen  or  cotton,  such  as  quilts.  For  such  articles 
as  do  not  require  great  suppleness.or  softness  of  feel, 
the  action  of  the  soap  may  be  enhanced  by  the 
addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  potash. 

Soft  potash  soaps  may  be  usefully  employed  in 
solution  together  with  gum  arabic  or  other  mucilag- 
inous matters,  for  cleaning  dyed  goods  and  espe- 
cially self-colored  silks.  This  composition  is  prefer- 
able to  white  or  marbled  soaps,  as  it  removes  the 
spots  better  and  attacks  the  colors  much  less. 

Ox  gall  dissolves  most  fatty  bodies  without  injur- 
ing either  the  color  or  the  fibre.  It  may  be  used 
preferably  to  soap  for  cleaning  woolens ;  but  not  for 
cleaning  stuffs  of  light  and  delicate  colors  which  it 
may  spoil  by  imparting  to  them  a  greenish-yellow  or 
even  a  deep-green  tint.  It  is  also  mixed  with  other 
matters  such  as  turpentine,  alcohol,  honey,  yolk  of 
egg,  fuller's  earth,  etc.,  and  in  this  state  is  used  for 
cleaning  silk. 

Yolk  of  egg  possesses  nearly  the  same  properties 
as  ox- gall,  but  is  much  more  expensive.  It  must  be 
used  as  quickly  as  possible,  for  it  loses  its  efficacy 
with  keeping.  It  is  sometimes  mixed  with  an  equal 
bulk  of  turpentine. 


III. 

WET   CLEANING. 

Water.  A  very  important  point  in  wet  cleaning 
is  pure  and  soft  water,  and  it  should  be  especially 
free  from  lime  and  iron.  Soft  river  water  and  rain 
water  are  most  preferable  to  use,  as  well  as  distilled 
water  such  as  collects  in  large  establishments  where 
steam  power  is  used.  Turbid  water  holding  solid 
substances  in  suspension  must  be  clarified  before  use 
by  filtering  or  settling.  In  practice  impure  water 
may  be  boiled  with  bran  and  the  dirty  scum  formed 
skimmed  off.  Hard  water  containing  lime  and 
magnesia  salts  cannot  be  used  for  wet  cleaning. 
These  salts  have  the  property  of  decomposing  the 
soap  which  is  used  and  forming  with  the  fatty  matter 
of  the  soap  insoluble  lime  and  magnesia  soaps, 
which  are  precipitated  out  of  the  water  in  the  form 
of  curdy  masses  that  settle  on  the  fibres  of  the  fab- 
rics and  often  impart  to  them  a  spotty  appearance. 

Water  to  be  used  for  cleaning  and  bleaching 
should  be  free  from  iron.  With  the  use  of  water 
containing  iron  the  fibres  can  never  be  suitably 
cleaned  and  bleached,  even  the  smallest  content  of 
iron  imparting  to  the  fabrics  a  yellowish  tone;  wool 
especially  turns  readily  yellow. 
(83) 


84        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Purification  and  testing  of  water.  A  simple 
method  for  testing  water  as  to  its  softness  is  as  fol- 
lows: Dissolve  a  small  quantity  of  good  pure  soap 
in  alcohol  and  allow  a  few  drops  of  the  solution  to 
fall  into  the  water  to  be  examined.  If  the  water  be- 
comes milky  or  turbid,  it  is  hard ;  if  it  remains  clear 
or  becomes  only  slightly  turbid,  it  is  soft.  If  soap 
chips  added  to  boiling  water  dissolve  completely  in 
it  and  a  clear  soap  water  is  formed  after  cooling,  the 
water  may  be  used  without  hesitation ;  if,  however, 
after  cooling  the  soap  a  curdy  layer  forms  on  the 
surface,  the  water  is  hard. 

The  mere  appearance  of  water  is  of  no  value  in 
judging  it,  since  even  crystal-clear  water  may  to  a 
high  degree  be  saturated  with  gypsum.  The  purity 
of  water  also  varies  with  the  season  of  year,  the  con- 
tent of  lime  being  greater  in  summer. 

For  the  determination  of  the  presence  of  gypsum 
add  to  the  water  2  or  3  drops  of  hydrochloric  acid 
and  10  drops  of  barium  chloride  solution;  the  for- 
mation of  a  precipitate  indicates  the  presence  of 
gypsum. 

The  presence  of  chlorine  combinations  is  indi- 
cated if  a  precipitate  is  formed  on  adding  to  the 
water  2  to  3  drops  of  nitric  acid  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  nitrate  of  silver. 

To  test  for  ammonia  add  to  the  boiling  water  10 
drops  of  caustic  potash  solution ;  if  a  piece  of  red 
litmus  paper  held  over  the  boiling  water  turns  blue, 
the  water  contains  ammonia. 

Nitric  acid  in  water  is  detected  by  evaporating  the 


WET   CLEANING.  85 

water  to  be  tested  to  half  its  quantity  and  adding  a 
few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid  and  a  small  quantity  of 
indigo  solution.  The  water  contains  nitrates  if  on 
heating  it  the  blue  color  disappears. 

The  presence  of  lime  is  tested  by  mixing  the 
water  with  ammonia  until  it  smells  of  the  latter  and 
then  adding  a  little  ammonium  oxalate ;  if  a  precipi- 
tate is  formed  the  water  contains  lime. 

To  test  for  iron  add  to  the  water  a  few  drops  of 
nut-gall  tincture  ;  if  a  blue-black  precipitate  is  formed 
it  is  due  to  the  presence  of  ferric  oxide. 

A  distinction  is  made  between  transient  and  per- 
manent hardness.  If  bicarbonate  of  lime  predomi- 
nates, which  by  mere  boiling  separates  as  carbonate 
of  lime,  transient  hardness  is  indicated.  On  the 
other  hand,  permanent  hardness  exists  if  sulphate  of 
lime,  which  does  not  separate  in  boiling,  predomi- 
nates. The  degrees  of  hardness  are  accurately  de- 
termined by  means  of  a  standard  soap  solution,  but 
the  test  has  to  be  made  by  an  expert  chemist. 

By  simply  allowing  hard  water  to  stand  quietly  for 
some  time,  precipitates  are  formed,  which  become 
more  apparent  on  boiling.  If  after  standing  for  a 
longer  time  the  water  deposits  a  brown  skin  on  the 
sides  of  the  vessel,  it  contains  iron  and  is  unsuitable. 
To  test  the  hardness  of  water  mix  about  a  pint  of  it 
with  tincture  of  soap  of  the  druggist;  the  greater 
the  content  of  lime  and  magnesia  salts  is,  the  more 
turbid  the  water  will  become.  By  boiling  a  sample 
of  the  water  which  has  been  found  to  be  hard  by  the 
reaction  with  tincture  of  soap  over  an  alcohol  lamp, 


86        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

it  will  become  turbid  and  after  cooling  a  precipitate 
of  carbonate  of  lime  and  carbonate  of  magnesia 
settles  on  the  bottom  of  the  vessel.  By  decanting 
the  supernatant  clear  fluid  and  adding  tincture  of 
soap  to  it,  further  turbidity  indicates  the  presence  of 
gypsum. 

Hard  water  is,  as  a  rule,  softened  by  the  addition 
of  soda  as  follows:  After  adding  the  soda  to  the 
water,  stir  thoroughly  and  allow  the  whole  to  stand 
over  night.  The  next  morning  take  a  sample  in  a 
clean,  clear  glass  and  add  a  little  ammonium  oxalate. 
If  the  water  becomes  milky,  it  has  not  been  suffi- 
ciently softened  and  more  soda  has  to  be  added. 

For  the  purification  of  water  in  which  gypsum 
predominates  use  soda  and  caustic  soda,  the  process 
being  best  effected  at  a  boiling  heat.  Independent 
of  alkali  salts,  water  to  be  used  for  cleaning  should 
not  contain  readily-soluble  salts  of  the  metals  of  the 
alkalies  and  of  the  metals  of  the  alkaline  earths. 
Thus,  for  instance,  magnesium  sulphate,  magnesium 
chloride  and  aluminium  sulphate  should  not  be 
present. 

The  purified  water  may  be  tested  as  to  its  avail- 
ability by  dipping  in  it  a  small  piece  of  red  litmus 
paper;  the  latter  should  turn  only  very  slightly  blue. 
When  mixed  with  ammonium  oxalate  solution,  no 
turbidity  should  appear. 

Water  containing  iron  may  be  purified  by  exposure 
to  the  air,  the  soluble  ferrous  iron  combinations 
being  oxidized  by  the  oxygen  of  the  air  and  con- 
verted into  insoluble  ferric  iron  salts.  If  chemicals 


WET   CLEANING.  87 

are  to  be  used,  an  addition  of  milk  of  lime  is  the 
cheapest  and  most  effective  means. 

For  the  purification  of  water  which  contains  iron 
and  lime,  it  is  advisable  to  mix  it  first  with  lime  solu- 
tion and  then  with  soda  solution,  and  allow  the  pre- 
cipitate which  is  formed  to  settle,  which  requires 
about  three  hours.  The  precipitate  contains  lime 
and  ferric  oxide. 

In  all  doubtful  cases  it  is,  however,  advisable  to 
have  the  water  tested  by  an  expert  chemist. 

Wet  washing  of  metis'  garments.  A  properly 
washed  suit  of  clothes  must  have  a  good  appearance, 
be  properly  smoothed  and  ironed,  must  not  smell  of 
soap,  dirt,  or  acid,  have  the  proper  feel  of  the  ma- 
terial, its  original  color  unimpaired,  as  also  that  of 
the  lining,  and  show  no  pale  seams  and  button- 
holes. The  first  thing  to  be  done  with  this  kind  of 
washing  is  to  sort  it,  putting  on  one  side  the  gar- 
ments to  be  wet- washed,  and  on  the  other  those  for 
which  dry-cleaning  is  preferable.  The  sorting  re- 
quires great  experience  to  identify  goods  which 
would  suffer  in  appearance  or  color  by  wet-washing, 
and  not  come  out  like  new  clothes.  Dress  clothes, 
colored  waist-coats  and  most  uniforms,  must  be 
chemically  cleaned.  Many  other  coats  and  even 
waistcoats,  however,  either  on  account  of  the  way 
they  are  made  or  of  the  liability  of  their  material  to 
shrink  and  wrinkle,  cannot  be  washed  wet. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  with  the  goods  intended 
for  wet-washing  is  to  turn  all  the  pockets,  sleeves 
and  trouser-legs  inside  out.  It  not  unfrequently 


88        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

happens  that  clothes  are  received  for  cleaning  with 
things  in  the  pockets,  which,  when  they  get  wet, 
will  spoil  not  only  the  particular  garment,  but  the 
others  washed  with  it. 

Dark  garments  are  washed  with  soda,  light  ones 
with  soap,  except  in  the  case  of  dark  waistcoats, 
which  are  soap-washed  for  the  sake  of  the  lighter 
lining.  The  articles  to  be  washed  with  soda  are  then 
placed  in  a  lukewarm  solution  of  soda,  the  dirtiest 
garments  at  the  bottom.  The  sleeves  and  pockets 
are  next  turned,  but  trouser  legs  are  left  inside  out, 
and  the  garments  are  brushed  over  on  both  sides 
with  lukewarm  soap  water.  If  dark  pocket  linings 
are  left  hanging  out  over  a  light  coat,  the  lining 
easily  stains  the  material  of  the  coat,  especially  in 
the  washing  machine.  The  soaping  is  continued 
till  a  permanent  lather  remains  on  the  clothes. 
Neglect  of  this  precaution  will  cause  the  finished 
washing  to  have  a  greasy  and  disagreeable  feel. 
After  the  brushing  over  with  soap,  the  goods  are 
passed  through  a  lukewarm,  weak  soda  solution,  and 
next  through  cold  water,  and  are  then  centrifuged. 
After  centrifuging,  most  of  the  soap  and  dirt  will 
have  been  removed.  The  goods  are  then  passed 
twice  or  three  times  through  clean  water  and  placed 
in  cold  water  to  be  soured.  This  souring  is  a  very 
important  step  in  the  operation,  as  it  gives  a  fresh 
appearance  and  a  good  feel  to  the  finished  goods, 
and  prevents  any  trouble  with  the  linings  due  to  the 
bleeding  of  dyes. 

The  souring  is  done  with  acetic  acid,  the  bath  be- 


WET   CLEANING.  89 

ing  used  lukewarm  to  make  it  penetrate  the  fabric 
more  readily  and  more  uniformly.  According  to  the 
thickness  of  the  cloth,  the  acid  is  added  for  each  lot 
in  one,  two  or  three  portions.  This  again  is  a  most 
important  precaution.  If  with  thick  heavy  fabrics 
all  the  acid  is  put  in  at  once,  it  often  happens  that 
the  finished  goods  still  smell  of  soap  and  have  a  hard 
feel,  while  the  faded  parts  of  them  show  out  more 
clearly,  and  the  seams  look  much  lighter  than  the 
cloth.  All  this  is  avoided  by  adding  the  acid  in 
portions.  Garments  with  black  cotton  linings  are 
soured  last,  as  they  always  bleed  a  little  in  the  pro- 
cess. Waistcoats  with  dark  lining  may  also  be 
placed  after  washing  and  rinsing  in  salt  water  to  pre- 
vent the  black  dye  from  bleeding.  After  souring  the 
goods  are  rinsed  first  in  warm,  and  then  in  cold,  water 
If  any  acid  is  left  in  the  garments  they  will  be  un- 
naturally stiff  and  have  a  hard  unpleasant  feel. 
Thorough  rinsing  is  especially  necessary  for  light- 
colored  goods  in  order  to  insure  clearness  of  the 
colors,  and  it  is  advisable  to  treat  them  after  souring 
for  10  minutes  in  a  washing  machine  with  clean,  luke- 
warm water,  then  pass  them  once  more  through  water 
and  centrifuge. 

Cloaks,  heavy  overcoats  for  men  and  servants  are 
washed  with  soap  and  are  treated  differently  from 
suits. 

Gray  uniform  cloaks  can  rarely  be  cleaned  with 
benzine,  as  the  street  dirt  often  adheres  so  strongly 
that  only  soaping  will  remove  it.  Very  dirty  places 
should  be  brushed  over  with  benzine  before  the  gar- 


90        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ment  is  washed  as  a  whole.  The  lining  requires  just 
as  careful  treatment  as  the  cloth,  especially  in  places 
particularly  subject  to  be  soiled,  i.  e.  which  come  into 
contact  with  a  horse  or  with  boot-tops. 

Nearly  all  the  articles  just  referred  to  are  of  heavy 
material  from  which  it  is  difficult  to  rinse  the  soap 
completely.  They  are  also  too  large  and  stiff,  for 
the  most  part,  to  be  easily  wrung.  They  should 
therefore  be  rinsed  first  in  a  centrifugal  and  then 
passed  through  warm,  and  next  through  cold,  water, 
and  then  again  through  the  centrifugal,  till  the  water 
comes  clear  from  the  machine.  These  goods  are 
soured  as  already  described,  but  in  the  case  of  heavy 
garments  two  persons  are  required  to  see  after  the 
wringing.  The  rinsing  is  done  in  three  baths,  the 
first  two  warm,  the  last  cold.  If  a  very  soft  feel  is 
wanted,  the  final  rinsing  before  centrifuging  must  be 
in  soft  water. 

Mens'  dark  clothes,  like  light  ones,  are  soaked  in 
soda  solution,  the  darkest  underneath  and  then 
brushed  over  with  fresh  soda  solution.  To  prevent 
bleeding  onto  the  linings  the  goods  are  now  slightly 
soured  and  rinsed  once  cold.  The  souring  removes 
the  disagreeable  rancid  smell  often  acquired  from  the 
body,  and  which  if  it  occurs  on  a  single  article  would 
otherwise  infect  the  whole  batch. 

Many  operators  prefer  washing  mens'  dark  clothes 
with  quillaia  bark.  Dark  one-color  articles  such  as 
brown,  dark  blue,  dark  green,  olive  and  black,  as 
well  as  all  dark  mixed  goods  which  do  not  contain 
green  or  other  delicate  colors,  are  first  soaked  in  a 


WET   CLEANING.  91 

cold  weak  soda  bath.  Great  care  must  however  be 
taken  that  mixed  goods  containing  bright  colors, 
especially  green  and  tobacco-brown,  come  not  in 
contact  with  soda  or  soap.  By  paying  close  atten- 
tion, the  workman  will  soon  learn  which  articles  may 
be  soaked  aud  which  cannot  be  thus  treated.  Arti- 
cles the  colors  of  which  are  liable  to  run  are  not 
soaked  at  all,  but  simply  moistened. 

The  quillaia  bark  is  scalded  with  hot  water — 2  Ibs. 
of  bark  to  3  bucketfuls  of  water.  The  whole  is  then 
allowed  to  stand  to  clarify,  only  the  clear,  yellow 
liquid  being  used.  Of  this  extract  add  about  2  to  3 
quarts  to  a  bucketful  of  lukewarm  water,  or  enough 
for  the  bath  to  froth  well.  The  efficiency  of  the  bath 
is  increased  by  the  addition  of  a  whiskey  glass  full 
of  ammonia.  For  green  and  green-  mixed  articles 
add  to  the  bath  a  small  quantity  of  acetic  acid.  For 
very  delicate  blue  colors  a  few  drops  of  sulphuric 
acid  may  be  added  to  the  bath  without  decreasing 
its  efficiency.  In  this  manner  the  baths  may  be  so> 
prepared  that  even  the  most  sensitive  colors  are  not 
impaired. 

After  washing  and  rinsing  the  goods  are  passed 
through  water  soured  with  acetic  acid.  Articles 
which  contain  black  cotton,  as  is  frequently  the  case 
with  mixed  goods,  are  brought  into  salt  water,  as 
well  as  waistcoats.  If  the  colors  of  the  latter  goods 
have  already  run,  draw  the  articles  quickly  through 
a  bath  slightly  soured  with  sulphuric  acid,  rinse  well, 
and  then  place  them  in  salt  water. 

The  quillaia  bark  may  be  scalded  three  times  in 


92        DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

succession  before  it  has  yielded  all  its  washing  sub- 
stance. 

Since  by  washing  with  soap  or  quillaia  all  stains 
cannot  be  removed,  it  is  advisable  to  get  rid  of  them 
as  much  as  possible  by  suitable  means  before  wash- 
ing. An  excellent  mixture  for  this  purpose  consists 
of  i  oz.  each  of  acetic  ether,  ether,  chloroform  and 
carbon  tetrachloride.  Oil-paint  stains  are  either 
softened  with  turpentine  or  fat,  or  removed  with 
chloroform.  Varnish,  wagon  grease  and  tar  stains 
are  also  softened  with  turpentine ;  stearine,  paraffine 
and  resin  with  alcohol. 

If  in  men's  colored  garments  spots  are  found  where 
the  color  has  beea  destroyed  by  urine,  moisten  them 
with  pure  decoction  of  logwood,  allow  to  dry, 
moisten  once  more,  and  after  again  drying,  dab  the 
spots  with  copperas  solution;  when  dry^  brush  with 
a  sharp  brush.  If  the  stains  do  not  disappear  by 
this  treatment,  moisten  them  with  wine  vinegar. 

Washing  ladies'  garments.  In  many  establish- 
ments ladies'  garments,  no  matter  whether  they  are 
to  be  washed  with  soap  or  quillaia,  are  first  chem- 
ically washed,  but  the  articles  intended  for  wet  wash- 
ing are  not  passed  through  a  fresh  benzine  bath. 
For  dark  articles,  such  as  red-brown,  brown,  green, 
blue  and  black  garments,  which  cannot  be  subjected 
to  soap  washing,  such  treatment  is  indispensable. 
However,  it  can  also  be  highly  recommended  for 
light-colored  articles,  as  the  dirt  dissolves  more 
readily  in  the  subsequent  soap-washing.  If  articles 
containing  oil  stains  are  only  washed  wet,  the  stains, 


WET   CLEANING.  93 

which  can  rarely  be  entirely  removed  with  soda  or 
soap,  appear  again  in  a  few  days  and  become  imme- 
diately perceptible  by  the  adherence  of  dust. 

Colored  ladies'  garments,  for  instance,  with  red, 
blue,  green,  brown,  etc.,  are  spread  upon  a  table, 
brushed  with  dilute  alcohol,  patted  dry  with  a  piece 
of  buckskin,  and  hung  up  on  two  hangers. 

Light-colored  cotton  garments  should  be  exam- 
ined as  to  whether  they  will  stand  wet  washing.  A 
trial  may  be  made  with  a  corner  or  inside  seam,  or 
by  cutting  a  small  piece  from  the  band,  and  after 
washing  and  drying  compare  it  with  the  garment.  If 
the  color  has  faded  or  become  duller,  it  is  best  to 
chemically  clean  the  garment.  However,  generally 
speaking,  cotton  articles  do  not  become  sufficiently 
clean  by  chemical  cleaning. 

Wash-fast  garments  are  placed  upon  a  table,  and 
the  dirty  places,  especially  the  hem-lining  which  is 
frequently  soiled  with  street-dirt,  thoroughly  brushed 
with  cold  soap  water.  They  are  then  washed  suc- 
cessively in  two  cold  soap  baths  which  should  well 
lather,  next  rinsed  and  soured. 

For  cotton  garments  which  will  not  stand  washing 
with  soap,  the  following  process  may  be  used  to 
advantage :  Scald  a  few  pounds  of  wheat  bran  with 
boiling  water,  allow  to  stand  and  cool  to  ioo°F. ; 
then  stir  thoroughly  and  pass  the  whole  through  a 
hair-sieve.  In  this  slippery  milky  liquor  wash  the 
articles  either  with  the  hand  or  upon  the  wash-board, 
finally  rinse,  centrifuge,  and  hang  up  to  dry.  Fine 
black  and  white  checkered  cotton  garments  may  in 


94   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

this  manner  be  successfully  cleaned,  as  well  as  all 
articles  with  delicate  colors,  the  most  sensitive  colors 
being  in  no  way  injured.  The  colors  do  not  bleed, 
since  such  bran  extract  does  not  contain  any  solvent 
substances  but  much  gluten,  in  consequence  of  which 
articles  thus  cleaned  do  not  require  further  finish. 
Rapid  drying  is  advisable. 

A  similar  method  is  as  follows :  Bring  quite  hot 
water  into  a  copper  kettle  and  add  wheat  bran  in  the 
proportion  of  ]fa  of  the  weight  of  the  articles  to  be 
cleaned.  Let  the  whole  draw  for  5  minutes,  then 
boil  for  10  minutes,  allow  to  cool,  then  enter  the 
articles  and  bring  slowly  to  the  boiling  point,  work- 
ing the  articles  constantly.  Then  allow  to  cool 
slowly  to  77°  F.,  next  wash  the  articles  thoroughly, 
and  rinse  twice.  Cotton  articles  thus  treated  turn 
out  perfectly  clean,  and  the  colors  retain  their  orig- 
inal freshness. 

The  colors  of  fabrics  containing  white  silk  together 
with  black  cotton  are  very  apt  to  run ;  this  is  pre- 
vented and  removed  by  placing  the  articles  imme- 
diately after  washing  and  rinsing  in  salt  water  for  one 
to  two  hours,  then  at  once  starching,  centrifug- 
ing  and  quickly  drying.  Such  articles  may  be 
washed  with  soap  or  quillaia,  or  wheat  bran,  accord- 
ing to  the  degree  of  dirt;  wheat  bran,  however, 
being  always  the  safest  agent. 

Corsets  are  soaked  in  a  strong  soap  bath,  brushed 
with  ammonia  or  soda  lye,  rinsed,  passed  through  a 
bath  slightly  soured  with  hydrochloric  acid,  again 
rinsed,  and  centrifuged. 


WET   CLEANING.  95 

Ladies'  half-wool  and  wool  garments  are  as  a  rule, 
wash-fast.  However,  on  account  of  their  shape, 
some  of  them  cannot  be  wet-washed,  but  have  to  be 
dry-cleaned  and  freed  from  stains,  while  the  colors 
of  others  will  not  stand  soap-washing,  though  the 
shape  of  the  garments  might  permit  it.  When  it 
comes  to  mixed  colors,  either  woven  or  printed,  one 
of  the  colors  is  sure  not  to  be  fast.  Such  pieces 
should  first  be  chemically  cleaned,  and  then  finished 
in  a  cold  solution  of  quillaia  bark  (about  I  or  2 
quarts  to  a  bucket  of  soft  water).  They  are  then 
rinsed  and  soured  with  acetic  acid.  Dark  blue  and 
dark  green  garments  are  treated  in  the  same  manner, 
a  few  drops  of  acetic  acid  being,  in  the  latter  case, 
added  to  the  quillaia  solution.  A  preparatory  chem- 
ical treatment  will  also  be  necessary  for  garments 
suitable  for  wet-washing,  but  which  contain  a  num- 
ber of  grease  or  other  fatty  stains.  After  the  ben- 
zine bath,  these  pieces  take  wet  treatment  very  well. 

Wool  and  half-wool  stuffs  are  best  washed  upon  a 
table  with  a  wood  or  slate  plate.  It  is  an  old  rule 
that  soapsuds  used  on  woolens  should  not  be  too 
strong  nor  too  hot.  Only  hand-warm,  and  even  less, 
is  the  proper  temperature,  and  if  the  suds  are  light 
and  foamy,  the  bath  will  be  of  sufficient  strength. 
A  proper  brush  is  another  matter  of  importance,  for 
nothing  is  more  foolish  than  to  apply  a  coarse-fibred 
brush  to  a  delicate  costly  fabric. 

Black  and  white  checks  in  wool  and  part  wool 
should  before  being  wet-cleaned,  be  taken  through  a 
bath  consisting  of  pure  water  and  a  little  common 


96        DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

salt.  After  being  dried  they  are  washed  in  the 
usual  manner.  After  rinsing  allow  them  to  remain 
for  a  short  time  in  a  solution  of  common  salt,  and 
then  dry  quickly  in  the  air. 

Rinsing  plays  a  most  important  part  in  wet- 
cleaning.  Four  baths  are  usually  necessary  to  in- 
sure a  proper  rinsing.  The  first  lukewarm,  with  a 
slight  addition  of  soda;  the  second  and  third  plain 
warm  water.  After  being  thoroughly  rinsed  in  these 
three  baths,  the  garments  should  for  some  time  re- 
main immersed  in  the  last  cold  bath.  If  white  and 
light-colored  pieces  have  not  been  sufficiently  rinsed 
and  still  retain  some  soap,  they  will  be  marked  with 
yellowish  streaks  after  they  have  dried. 

To  freshen  up  the  colors  which  generally  fade  a 
little  under  the  soap  process,  a  warm  water  bath 
should  be  prepared  in  a  clean  wooden  vessel  and 
enough  pure  sulphuric  acid  slowly  added,  while  con- 
stantly stirring,  to  give  the  bath  a  faint  acid  flavor. 
All  but  black  pieces  should  be  taken  through  this 
bath,  then  rinsed  and  centrifuged.  Black  articles 
require  a  bath  of  common  salt. 

If  the  shape  of  raw-silk  garments  permits,  they 
are,  after  removal  of  stains,  washed  quite  warm, 
rinsed  and  soured  hot  in  hydrochloric  acid. 

With  lustre  and  barege  garments  great  care  has  to 
be  taken.  While  they  stand  wet-washing,  they  fre- 
quently become  very  curly  and  shrink  so  that  they 
cannot  be  again  smoothed  by  ironing.  Such  gar- 
ments should  not  be  washed  on  the  wash-board,  but 
simply  brushed  and  treated  entirely  cold  and  also 
cold-starched. 


WET   CLEANING.  97 

If  garments  trimmed  with  black  velvet  are  wet- 
washed  like  white  articles,  they  should,  after  wash- 
ing, be  only  drawn  through  acetic  acid,  or  not  at  all 
soured,  and  starched.  If,  however,  the  fabric  requires 
starching,  the  velvet,  when  the  garment  is  dry, 
should  be  steamed  and  treated  with  a  sharp  brush. 
Finally,  to  restore  lustre  and  softness,  rub  the  velvet 
with  a  small  rag  moistened  with  olive  oil.  This,  of 
course,  has  to  be  done  very  carefully  so  as  not  to 
touch  the  fabric  and  soil  it. 

Wet-washing  white  wool  and  white  silk  fabrics. 
Previous  to  washing  white  wool  and  white  silk 
articles,  such  as  cloths,  woolen  covers,  jackets,  silk 
shawls,  etc.,  remove  all  metallic  hooks  and  buttons. 
Then  soak  the  articles  for  half  an  hour  in  a  luke- 
warm bath  containing  about  ^  Ib.  of  soda  in  solu- 
tion. Next  prepare  two  baths  with  soap,  which 
should  lather  well,  and  successively  wash  the  goods 
in  them.  Washing  is  effected  by  squeezing  below 
the  surface  of  the  bath  the  smaller  articles  such  as 
fichus,  etc.,  and  shaking  them ;  they  should  never 
be  rubbed  between  the  hands.  Larger  articles,  such 
as  blankets,  etc.,  are  washed  either  upon  the  wash 
board  or  in  the  washing  machine.  Good  castile 
soap  should  be  preferably  used.  The  suds  should 
only  be  lukewarm  and  never  allowed  to  get  too  hot 
or  too  cold.  To  the  last  soap  bath  some  blue  is,  as 
a  rule,  added.  For  this  purpose  dissolve  in  an 
earthenware  vessel  2  to  4  ozs.  of  indigo  carmine  and 
add  a  few  drops  of  the  solution  to  the  bath.  After 
having  passed  through  the  last  soap  bath,  the  articles 
7 


98   DRV  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

are  wrung  out  or  centrifuged,  and  brought  into  the 
sulphuring  chamber.  The  latter  should  not  be  kept 
too  warm  as  otherwise  the  articles  become  too  dry 
and  cannot  be  properly  shaped. 

A  suitable  bleaching  chamber  for  woolens  should 
have  walls  and  floor  of  brick- work  set  in  cement, 
and  be  ceiled  with  planks  thickly  covered  outside 
with  felt.  Wooden  pegs  should  be  used  for  the  ceil- 
ing instead  of  iron  nails  to  prevent  all  chance  of 
rusty  water  dripping  on  the  goods  to  be  bleached 
.  and  staining  them.  Just  below  the  ceiling  lathes 
cross  the  chamber,  being  supported  on  wall  brackets 
and  thickly  tinned  hooks  are  screwed  into  the  un- 
.  derside  of  the  lathes  for  suspending  the  articles  to 
be  bleached.  They  are  so  placed  that  when  the 
goods  are  hung  upon  them,  the  sulphurous  acid  gets 
all  around  each  article.  Hence  the  hooks  have  to 
be  spaced  according  to  the  size  of  the  articles,  some 
lathes  being  reserved  for  larger  and  others  for  smaller 
ones.  From  garments  to  be  bleached,  brass  hooks 
and  eyes  and  pins  have  to  be  removed  before  bring- 
ing them  into  the  chamber. 

When  all  the  goods  are  hung  up  sulphur  is  set 
fire  to  in  an  iron  pan  and  put  into  the  chamber. 
The  air-tight  door  of  the  chamber  is  then  closed,  and 
the  goods  are  left  overnight.  It  is  usual  to  burn 
half  an  ounce  of  roll-sulphur  for  every  10  cubic  feet 
of  the  capacity  of  the  chamber.  The  oxygen  in  10 
cubic  feet  of  air  will  burn  more  sulphur  than  this, 
but  if  the  quantity  given  above  is  much  exceeded 
solid  sulphur  is  apt  to  be  sublimed  on  to  the  goods, 
and  its  removal  is  a  matter  of  great  difficulty. 


WET   CLEANING.  99 

Small  pale  yellow  sulphur  stains  can  be  readily 
removed  from  the  articles  while  still  moist,  by  gentle 
rubbing  with  solution  of  oxalic  acid  in  water;  dark, 
nearly  brown  stains  can,  however,  be  scarcely  re- 
moved. If,  in  sulphuring,  the  articles  turn  yellow, 
and  the  sulphur  is  not  completely  consumed,  spon- 
taneous renewal  of  air  is  lacking. 

Another  method  is  as  follows  :  Do  not  blue  after 
washing  but  only  when  the  articles  have  been  sul- 
phured. Then  rinse  them  in  lukewarm  water  and 
next  in  a  warm  bath  to  which  a  few  drops  of  indigo 
carmine  solution  and  cochineal  decoction  have  been 
added. 

White  woolen  blankets  with  blue  or  red  borders 
can  be  sulphured  without  damage  to  the  colors  and 
then  treated  like  other  white  articles. 

A  more  convenient,  though  somewhat  more  ex- 
pensive, bleaching  process  is  that  with  potassium 
permanganate  and  sulphurous  acid.  For  this  pur- 
pose fill  an  earthenware  vessel  with  cold  water  and 
dissolve  in  it  about  I  oz.  of  potassium  perman- 
ganate. Move  the  articles  in  the  solution  for  about 
10  minutes  so  that  they  show  a  brown  appearance; 
them  press  them  out  thoroughly  and  bring  them  into 
another  earthenware  vessel  containing  a  fresh  water 
bath  with  about  2  quarts  of  sulphurous  acid.  In 
this  bath  the  articles  should  remain  overnight.  The 
two  baths  should  be  well  covered  to  preserve  them 
for  further  use.  The  next  morning  the  articles  are 
taken  from  the  sulphurous  acid  bath,  passed  rapidly 
to  a  bath  soured  with  sulphuric  acid  and  to  which  a 


IOO      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

few  drops  of  methyl  violet  6  B  have  been  added  suf- 
ficient to  give  the  bath  a  pale  green  color.  The 
articles  are  finally  rinsed  and  contrifuged. 

Bleaching  white  wool  or  silk  articles  with  peroxides. 
When  the  articles  have  been  washed  in  the  above- 
described  manner,  they  are  passed  for  the  removal 
of  soap  through  two  lukewarm  baths  and  thoroughly 
squeezed  out.  Prepare  in  an  earthenware  vessel  a 
cold  water  bath  containing  one  part  hydrogen  per- 
oxide for  every  15  parts  of  water.  Place  the  goods 
in  the  bath  and  allow  them  to  remain  in  it  for  one- 
half  to  one  hour,  according  to  requirement,  taking 
care  that  every  article  is  below  the  surface  of  the 
bath  so  as  to  be  thoroughly  saturated.  Cover  the 
bath.  When  taking  the  articles  from  the  bath 
squeeze  them  superficially  and  hang  them  in  a  room 
through  which  a  current  of  air  passes  and  the  tem- 
perature of  which  does  not  exceed  68°  F.  The 
bleaching  process  takes  place  together  with  evapor- 
ation. The  saturated  articles  may  also  be  exposed 
to  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  whereby  the  process  is 
accelerated. 

Since  hydrogen  peroxide  is  for  the  sake  of  dur- 
ability brought  into  commerce  slightly  acidulated, 
the  bleaching  bath  must,  before  use,  be  neutralized 
by  the  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  ammonia.  The 
baths  should  be  well  covered  for  future  use  and 
brought  up  to  the  required  strength  by  the  addition 
of  fresh  hydrogen  peroxide.  The  latter  should  be 
kept  in  well-closed  vessels  in  a  cool  place. 

Bleaching  white  woolen  blankets,  garments^  etc. — 


WET   CLEANING.  IOI 

The  articles  thoroughly  freed  from  dirt  and  other 
impurities  by  wet  washing  are  centrifuged  and  then 
bleached.  For  this  purpose  old  tubs  which  are  not 
thoroughly  clean  should  never  be  used ;  even  with 
new  tubs  it  is  advisable — and  this  applies  to  all  wood 
utensils  used — to  bleach  them  before  use  with  a  one- 
half  per  cent,  hydrogen  peroxide  solution  to  with- 
draw the  coloring  matter  contained  in  the  wood. 
Water  and  acids  must  be  free  from  iron  ;  even  water, 
otherwise  suitable,  which  has  stood  for  some  time  in 
an  iron  conduit,  may  contain  iron  and  be  thereby 
rendered  unfit  for  use.  Fill  a  wooden  tub  with  cold, 
pure,  soft  water,  add  for  every  10  parts  of  water  one 
part  hydrogen  peroxide,  as  well  as  a  small  quantity 
of  ammonia,  stir  thoroughly,  introduce  the  articles 
and  allow  them  to  remain  until  they  have  acquired 
the  desired  tone  of  purity.  If  after  bleaching  with 
hydrogen  peroxide  the  articles  are  not  to  be  blued, 
it  is  advisable  to  dry  them  in  the  sun  in  order  to 
complete  the  bleaching  process.  Bluing,  if  required, 
is  effected  in  a  fresh,  cold,  or  at  the  utmost,  luke- 
warm bath  with  aniline  blue  or  methyl  violet.  The 
goods  are  then  immediately  centrifuged  and  dried. 
It  is  best,  if  possible,  to  dry  such  articles  in  the  open 
air  in  the  shade;  in  drying  in  the  drying  chamber, 
care  should  be  taken  to  do  it  slowly  at  a  low  tem- 
perature and  with  good  ventilation. 

Hydrogen  peroxide  is  an  excellent  bleaching 
agent,  but  its  bad  keeping  properties  restrict  its  use- 
fulness. As  previously  mentioned  the  commercial 
article  is,  as  a  rule,  slightly  acidulated,  such  mineral 


[O2      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

acids  as  hydrochloric  and  sulphuric,  and  one  or  two 
strong  organic  acids,  especially  acetic,  having  been 
found  efficient  in  increasing  its  durability.  Addition  of 
one  of  these  makes  even  weak  solutions  of  hydrogen 
peroxide  keep  fairly  well.  For  many  purposes,  how- 
ever, the  use  of  acids  with  peroxide  is  objectionable, 
and  several  other  efficient  preservatives  have  been 
discovered.  The  chief  of  these  are  benzoic  acid, 
phenacetine  and  lactophenine.  A  solution  of  hy- 
drogen peroxide  of  3  per  cent,  strength  decomposes 
so  spontaneously  at  the  ordinary  temperature  that  it 
loses  half  its  strength  in  from  one  week  to  a  fort- 
night, according  to  the  weather.  When  mixed  with 
from  one-half  to  a  whole  gramme  of  benzoic  acid  to 
the  quart,  again  according  to  the  weather,  the  per- 
oxide will  still  have  six-sevenths  of  its  original 
strength  after  the  lapse  of  a  month.  Phenacetine 
and  lactophenine  have  a  still  more  powerful  preserv- 
ative action.  From  £  to  -^  of  a  gramme  of  them  is 
as  effectual  as  a  gramme  of  benzoic  acid.  Even 
with  -.jV  of  a  gramme  per  quart  of  either  phenacetine 
or  lactophenine,  half  the  original  strength  of  the  per- 
oxide often  remains  after  the  lapse  of  a  month. 
Having  regard  both  to  efficiency  and  to  economy, 
phenacetine  is  the  best  preservative  for  hydrogen 
peroxide,  and  in  no  way  interferes  with  its  industrial 
action. 

As  a  substitute  for  the  not  very  constant  hydrogen 
peroxide,  sodium  peroxide  may  be  recommended  as 
a  bleaching  agent.  Its  use  for  white  silk,  especially 
ribbons,  is  as  follows :  Rub  the  silk  gently  with  a 


WET   CLEANING.  IO3 

medium  hard  brush  and  hand-warm  soap  solution,  so 
that  the  threads  of  the  tissue  are  not  pushed  together. 
Then  rinse  thoroughly  in  water  of  86°  to  100°  F. 
and  bring  the  silk  into  the  sodium  peroxide  bath. 
For  the  latter  use  an  enameled  vessel,  copper  being 
unsuitable  for  the  purpose,  provided  with  a  second 
perforated  bottom.  The  vessel  should  be  of  suitable 
size,  as  the  silk  must  not  be  pressed  together,  and 
should  have  plenty  of  room.  Dissolve  in  10  quarts 
of  cold  distilled  or  condensed  water  3^  ozs.  of  Ep- 
som salt,  add  carefully  and  slowly,  stirring  constantly, 
about  i  oz.  sodium  peroxide,  and  finally,  also  slowly, 
about  i%  ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  After  adding  the 
sulphuric  acid,  the  bath  should  be  only  slightly  alka- 
line. It  is  best  to  proceed  by  adding  first  sufficient 
acid  to  render  the  bath  slightly  acid,  i.  e.,  that  blue 
litmus  paper  is  just  colored  red ;  then  again  enough 
sodium  peroxide  for  the  bath  to  show  a  slight  alka- 
line reaction,  i.  e.,  that  red  litmus  paper  is  just  col- 
ored blue.  When  the  silk  has  been  placed  in  the 
slightly  alkaline  bath,  the  latter  is  in  the  course  of  an 
hour  heated  to  between  176°  and  212°  F.,  which  is 
best  effected  by  means  of  a  gas  or  petroleum  flame. 
Steam  can  only  be  recommended  when  it  can  be  in- 
directly introduced.  Direct  firing  with  coal  or  wood 
is  not  suitable  because  heating  cannot  be  properly 
regulated.  Allow  the  silk  to  remain  three  to  four 
hours  in  the  bath  at  176°  F.,  handling  it  occasionally 
and  taking  care  that  it  is  always  covered  by  the 
bleaching  bath.  The  silk  when  taken  from  the 
bleaching  bath  is  passed  through  a  lukewarm  bath 


104      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

slightly  soured  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  to  which,  if 
required,  a  trace  of  a  blue  coloring  matter  has  been 
been  added.  After  bluing  pass  the  goods,  accord- 
ing to  requirement,  through  a  weaker  or  stronger 
gelatine  bath,  to  which  some  acetic  acid  has  been 
added,  centrifuge,  and  iron  at  once.  It  may  happen 
that  the  bleaching  bath  has  been  somewhat  too  alka- 
line. In  this  case  it  bleaches  more  rapidly  and 
better,  but  the  silk  loses  its  lustre.  To  restore  the 
lustre  rinse  the  goods  very  thoroughly  after  the 
souring,  then  bring  them  into  a  well-lathering  c?.s- 
tile  soap  bath,  boil  for  15  minutes,  rinse  three  times 
in  water  of  86°  to  100°  F.,  brighten  with  acetic  acid, 
and  blue. 

For  silk  articles  the  sodium  peroxide  bath  may 
be  somewhat  more  concentrated  than  for  woolens. 
After  bleaching,  pass  the  articles  through  a  water- 
bath,  then  through  a  bath  consisting  of  alcohol  and 
a  small  quantity  of  glycerin,  and  dry  at  a  low  tem- 
perature up  to  77°  F. 

The  use  of  sodium  peroxide  is  of  special  advan- 
tage when  sufficient  bleaching  cannot  be  effected 
with  sulphurous  acid.  For  bleaching  articles  which 
have  turned  very  yellow,  the  two  processes  may  be 
combined. 

For  garments  with  wool,  silk  and  cotton,  the  fol- 
lowing composition  of  a  bleaching  bath  may  be 
recommended:  Dissolve  for  every  100  quarts  of 
cold  water,  3  Ibs.  Epsom  salt,  6  ozs.  sulphuric  acid, 
and  add,  with  constant  stirring,  I  Ib.  sodium  peroxide. 

Bleaching  of  jute.     For  this  purpose  the  following 


WET    CLEANING.  105 

method  has  been  recommended  :  Bring  the  jute  into 
a  sulphuric  acid  bath  of  the  usual  strength,  then 
rinse  thoroughly  and  bleach  by  means  of  chloride  of 
lime.  For  bleaching  several  chloride  baths  of  differ- 
ent strengths  are  used,  commencing  with  the  strong- 
est bath  and  reducing  the  degrees  of  chloride  of 
lime  solution  from  bath  to  bath  until  the  jute  is 
white.  On  the  other  hand,  it  is  asserted  that  jute 
yarn  does  not  become  white  by  bleaching  with 
chloride  of  lime,  but  at  the  best  only  acquires  a 
reddish  cream  color.  For  this  reason  bleaching 
with  potassium  permanganate  is  recommended. 
The  jute  fibre  is  in  this  case  cleaned  with  soda  or 
waterglass  at  a  temperature  of  148°  to  158°  F. ;  it 
is  then  passed  through  a  bath  of  potassium  perman- 
ganate, and  the  bistre  of  manganese  is  finally  de- 
tached by  means  of  sulphurous  acid.  Jute  is  very 
sensitive,  and  should  for  the  purpose  of  cleaning,  be 
only  treated  with  gently  acting  alkaline  agents  or 
very  weak  alkaline  lyes. 

The  following  method  may  also  be  recommended  : 
Soak  the  jute  for  2  hours  in  a  bath  containing  ^  oz. 
of  waterglass  per  gallon  of  water,  maintaining  the 
bath  at  a  temperature  of  140°  F. ;  then  rinse,  and 
bleach  at  86°  F.  in  alkaline  sodium  chloride  solution 
which  contains  about  I  per  cent,  of  chlorine.  When 
taken  from  the  latter  bath,  rinse  thoroughly,  sour  in 
a  cold  hydrochloric  acid  bath  of  %  to  ^°  Be.,  add  a 
small  quantity  of  sulphurous  acid,  and  after  half  an 
hour  rinse  thoroughly. 

Washing'    light-colored,    wool    and    silk    articles, 


IO6      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Cream-colored,  rose-colored,  and  pale  blue  articles 
are  carefully  washed  with  soap.  The  first  two  colors 
are  carefully  brightened  by  re-dyeing,  while  the  latter 
color  is  revived  by  means  of  a  sulphuric  acid  bath. 
Articles  with  dark  colors  are  washed  with  quillaia  de- 
coction with  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  acetic 
acid,  rinsed,  and  passed  through  a  bath  strongly 
soured  with  acetic  acid.  This,  of  course,  applies 
only  to  smaller  articles. 

Woolen  undergarments  are  washed  in  a  lukewarm 
soap  bath  and  rinsed  in  lukewarm  water.  When 
washing  in  the  machine  add  some  ammonia  to  the 
soap  bath.  Rinse  in  two  or  three  waters  and 
immediately  centrifuge.  When  taken  from  the  cen- 
trifugal draw  them  smooth  and  stretch  them  gently 
in  every  direction  before  drying. 

Flannel  undershirts,  etc.,  may  also  be  soaked  in 
lukewarm  water,  then  washed  in  lukewarm  soap  suds, 
rinsed,  and  ironed ;  or  wash  them  in  milk-warm  suds 
of  soft  soap,  centrifuge,  and  dry.  Flannels  thus 
treated  are  said  to  remain  soft,  and  do  not  shrink. 

White  cloth  caps  and  felt  hats  are  cleaned  in  the 
most  simple  manner  by  scattering  plaster  of  Paris  or 
potato-flour  over  them  and  brushing  it  off,  repeating 
the  operation  if  required. 

Or,  rub  the  soiled  places  by  means  of  a  woolen 
rag  with  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  a  little  common 
salt,  and  dry  with  a  linen  cloth. 

White  woolen,  knit  or  woven  articles,  such  as 
sweaters,  etc.,  are  washed  in  neutral  soap  solution 
containing  borax,  and  rinsed  in  dilute  ammonia. 


WET   CLEANING.  IO/ 

White  silk  handkerchiefs  are  washed  in  a  luke- 
warm bath  of  Castile  soap  until  sufficiently  clean ; 
they  are  then  rinsed  in  lukewarm  water,  blued, 
squeezed  out  and  wrapped  in  linen  cloths  in  which 
they  remain  until  sufficiently  dry  to  allow  of  being 
ironed.  The  soap  bath  should  be  neutral  and  lather 
well;  some  ammonia  may  also  be  added. 

White  silk  stockings  are  washed  in  a  warm  soap 
bath  and  rinsed  in  fresh  water ;  if  necessary,  they  may 
be  sulphured  and  blued.  An  excellent  plan  is  to 
dry  them,  if  possible,  upon  forms  and,  while  still 
moist,  smooth  them  with  a  glass  polisher. 

Colored  silk  cloths  are  best  washed  with  decoction 
of  quillaia  bark  instead  of  soap. 

Washing  silk  gloves.  Wash  the  gloves  in  a  bath 
of  white  soap  at  122°  F.  and,  if  necessary,  repeat 
washing  in  a  fresh  soap  bath;  then  rinse  carefully, 
first  in  warm  water,  and  then  in  several  cold  waters. 
An  addition  of  alcohol  is  also  recommended.  After 
washing,  dry  the  gloves  as  much  as  possible  by  press- 
ing between  linen  cloths,  apply  a  dressing  of  fish- 
glue  solution,  iron  and  brush  in  the  direction  of  the 
threads  to  impart  lustre. 

Colored  silk  gloves  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  since 
by  this  treatment  the  colors  run  least.  Cleaning 
with  soap  should  be  done  as  quickly  as  possible,  to 
prevent  the  colors  from  being  too  strongly  attacked 
by  the  soap.  Rinse  carefully  in  acidulated  waters 
and  remove  the  water  as  quickly  as  possible,  by 
pressing  the  gloves  between  cloths. 

Cleaning  fine  colored  embroideries.     Fine  silk  em- 


108      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

broideries  and  all  other  kinds  which  will  not  stand 
wet-cleaning,  have  to  be  chemically  cleaned.  Those 
which  can  be  wet-cleaned  are  carefully  washed  in  a 
solution  of  Castile  soap.  Coffee  and  other  stains,  if 
present,  are  carefully  removed  with  eau  de  Javelle. 
It  should,  however,  be  borne  in  mind  that  by  the 
action  of  chloride  of  lime  a  red  color  may  acquire  a 
dull  tone  and  silk  embroideries  or  fine  lace-insertions 
in  a  cover  may  also  suffer  thereby ;  hence  the  greatest 
care  should  be  exercised.  White  silk,  as  is  well 
known,  turns  yellow  by  the  action  of  chlorine. 
Finally  rinse  in  cold  water,  pass  the  articles  through 
an  acetic  acid  bath,  and  dry  between  linen  cloths. 
A  small  quantity  of  turpentine  may  also  be  added  to 
the  soap  bath.  To  prevent  the  colors  from  running, 
quick  work  is  imperative.  Should,  in  washing  col- 
ored embroideries,  the  colors  bleed  very  much  and 
stain  the  white  portion,  the  trouble  may  possibly  be 
removed  by  passing  the  article  through  lukewarm 
water  to  which  a  little  eau  de  Javelle  has  been  ad-ded. 
Should,  however,  the  stains  not  disappear  by  this 
treatment,  the  article  should,  without  being  previ- 
ously rinsed,  be  bleached  by  exposure  to  the  air. 
Afterwards  it  is  rinsed,  soured,  wrapped  in  a  cloth, 
centrifuged,  and  ironed  while  wet. 

Eau  de  Javelle  is  prepared  as  follows :  Stir  2  Ibs. 
of  dry  chloride  of  lime  in  an  earthenware  vessel  with 
water  to  a  thick  paste ;  dissolve  4  Ibs.  of  crystallized 
soda  in  20  quarts  of  water  and  slowly  add  this  solu- 
tion, stirring  constantly,  to  the  chloride  of  lime  paste. 
Allow  the  mixture  to  settle  and  use  the  clear  super- 


WET   CLEANING.  IOQ 

natant  fluid.  It  should  be  well  corked  and  kept  in 
a  dark  place.  Another  formula  is  as  follows :  To  a 
solution  of  I  Ib.  of  chloride  of  lime  add  I  Ib.  of 
ammonia-soda,  allow  to  settle  and  use  the  super- 
natant clear  fluid. 

When  colored  wool  and  silk  embroideries  are  to 
be  wet-cleaned,  the  chief  care  is  that  the  colors  do  not 
run.  For  this  purpose  prepare  a  solution  of  about 
i  part  by  weight  of  Castile  soap  for  every  500  parts 
by  weight  of  water.  The  use  of  a  soap  too  alkaline, 
as  well  as  an  addition  of  soda,  is  to  be  carefully 
avoided.  With  this  soap  solution  moisten  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  bran  so  that  the  entire  mass  is 
moist,  but  not  wet  enough  to  drip.  Place  the  bran 
about  y±  inch  deep  upon  the  embroidery  spread  out 
on  a  table,  allow  it  to  remain  for  about  10  minutes, 
then  remove  it,  and  rub  any  remaining  soiled  places 
with  dry  bran.  If  necessary,  repeat  the  operation. 
Should  the  colors  have  become  dull,  they  may  be 
revived  by  moistening  a  fresh  supply  of  bran  with 
oxalic  acid  solution — y^  oz.  of  acid  in  I  quart  of 
water — and  apply  as  before.  After  removing  the 
bran  the  articles  should  not  be  dried  at  too  high  a 
temperature,  but  should  be  freed  from  moisture  by 
placing  them  between  cloths.  They  are  finally 
treated  with  a  soft  brush. 

The  washing  of  small  table  covers  with  colored 
embroidery  often  causes  the  cleaner  much  trouble, 
especially  when  the  colors  have  already  run.  The 
best  way  to  proceed  is  as  follows :  Place  the  article 
smoothly  upon  the  table  and  scrub  both  sides  with 


110      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

cold  soap  suds;  rinse  quickly,  draw  through  a  weak 
sulphuric  acid  bath,  rinse  again,  roll  up  between  two 
clean  and  dry  white  linen  cloths,  and  centrifuge. 
Should  the  colors  of  the  embroidery  be  very  deli- 
cate, the  hydro- extractor  should  first  be  set  in  motion 
and  the  article  rolled  in  the  cloths  be  thrown  in 
while  the  machine  is  running.  Ladies'  silk  shawls 
and  scarfs  should  be  treated  in  the  same  manner. 
When  the  colors  have  already  run  previous  to  wash- 
ing, handle  the  articles  in  hot  soap  suds — without 
allowing  them  to  stand — until  the  color-stains  are 
extracted.  Should  this  not  produce  the  desired 
effect  add  a  small  quantity  of  chlorine  to  the  soap 
suds,  rinse,  sour,  and  centrifuge  as  above ;  the  colors 
will  be  revived  by  the  acid. 

Should  there  be  ladies'  scarfs  with  variegated 
colors  among  the  pieces,  it  is  best  to  place  them  im- 
mediately upon  leaving  the  hydro  extractor  in  starch 
powder  or  talcum,  and  brush  them  when  dry. 

A  large  German  establishment  where  many  dozens 
of  antimacassars,  cushion-covers  etc.,  are  received 
and  washed  every  week  has  adopted  the  following 
plan  for  cleaning  colored  embroideries  on  a  white  or 
light-colored  fabric.  These  embroideries  which  are 
usually  executed  in  silk  or  mercerized  cotton  are 
often  received  in  a  very  dirty  condition  and  stained 
with  grease,  wine,  coffee,  etc. 

The  goods  are  first  dry-washed  to  remove  grease. 
The  benzine  affects  very  few  colors,  there  being 
only  a  few  reds  which  are  soluble  in  that  liquid. 
These  are  recognized  by  a  preliminary  test,  and 


WET   CLEANING.  Ill 

goods  containing  them  must  be  treated  by  them- 
selves. 

When  the  goods  washed  with  benzine  are  nearly 
dry  they  are  sorted  into  various  grades  of  dirtiness. 
Two  soap  baths  are  then  prepared  of  neutral  grain 
soap,  one  warm,  the  other  cold,  and  both  lathering 
well.  The  goods  are  first  soaked  in  the  cold  soap 
bath,  and  then  spread  out  on  a  board  without  wring- 
ing, and  brushed  over  with  some  of  the  warm  soap 
bath.  The  goods  are  then  passed  through  a  clean 
warm  soap  bath  and  rinsed  three  times,  twice  with 
warm,  and  finally  with  cold,  water.  A  passage 
through  cold  weak  acetic  acid  is  then  given  to  liven 
the  colors,  and  the  goods  are  dried. 

If  any  bleeding  takes  place  during  the  brushing, 
transfer  to  the  clean  warm  soap  bath  as  quickly  as 
possible,  handle  briskly  in  it  for  a  few  minutes,  rinse 
thoroughly  but  with  all  expedition,  and  dry  imme- 
diately after  the  acetic  acid  bath.  If  the  warm  soap 
bath  will  not  remove  the  color  which  has  bled 
on  to  the  ground,  a  boiling  bath  must  be  tried,  but 
it  must  be  very  weak  and  its  action  should  not 
be  unduly  prolonged.  If  this  treatment  also  fails 
try  a  very  weak  bath  of  chloride  of  lime,  pour  in  very 
dilute  sulphuric  acid,  rinse  thoroughly,  liven,  and 
dry.  Much  depends  upon  speed,  and  if  these  var- 
ious processes  have  to  be  gone  through  in  succes- 
sion, the  need  of  the  most  rapid  working  is  all  the 
more  urgent.  Bleaching  powder  must,  however,  not 
be  used  with  silk  embroideries  as  it  turns  them 
yellow. 


112      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

If  there  are  any  stains  left  in  the  washed  goods 
they  will  probably  be  due  to  the  dye  or  to  iron. 
These  are  removed  by  local  treatment,  the  one  sort 
with  chloride  of  lime,  the  other  with  oxalic  acid. 
The  stain  is  patted  with  the  solution  and  the  place 
is  carefully  freed  from  it  after  the  stain  has  gone  by 
repeated  applications  of  clean  water.  Care  must  be 
taken  that  the  solutions  are  not  too  strong,  and  par- 
ticularly that  the  bleaching  solution  contains  no  un- 
dissolved  particles  as  they  will  cause  holes. 

Special  care  is  required  in  centrifuging  the  goods 
before  drying.  A  clean  woolen  cloth  is  laid  out  and 
the  embroidered  articles  are  spread  on  it  and  rolled 
up  in  it,  but  in  such  a  way  that  the  colored  and 
white  parts  of  the  articles  are  not  in  contact.  The 
roll  is  then  centrifuged  just  as  it  is.  When  it  has 
been  in  the  machine  ten  or  twelve  minutes,  it  is  un- 
done, and  the  embroidered  articles  are  dried. 

Many  dyes  bleed  the  moment  they  are  wetted, 
others  only  after  a  rather  long  washing  with  soap. 
The  surest  safeguards  against  bleeding  are  the  use 
of  moderate  temperatures  and  the  entrusting  of  the 
work  to  a  skilled  and  dexterous  hand  who  will  do 
the  washing  with  the  utmost  expedition.  In  many 
cases  the  addition  of  a  little  acetic  acid  or  common 
salt  to  the  soap  bath  is  a  great  help,  especially  for 
goods  that  are  not  too  dirty.  Quillaia  decoction  with 
a  few  drops  of  turpentine  often  answers  better  than 
soap.  If  the  embroidery  has  a  lining  which  has  been 
dyed  with  a  dye  which  is  not  fast,  nothing  can  be 
done  but  to  remove  the  lining  and  wash  it  separately. 


WET   CLEANING.  113 

It  may  also  be  noted  that  the  colors  most  likely  to 
bleed  are  olives,  certain  greens  and  yellows,  and  also 
dark  red,  violet,  Bordeaux,  and  orange. 

Washing  laces,  blonde-laces,  embroideries  on  linen. 
White  imitation  (cotton)  laces,  as  well  as  embroid- 
eries on  linen,  are  washed  in  hot  soap  suds,  bleached, 
and  blued  as  given  below  under  curtain  washing. 
Either  pin  the  lace,  while  wet,  to  a  cushion,  or  iron  it, 
care  being  taken  not  to  get  the  design  out  of  shape. 
Laces  and  curtains  should  not  be  rubbed  or  boiled 
too  long. 

Real  laces  and  silk  blonde-laces  with  very  delicate 
designs  should  be  chemically  cleaned,  any  remaining 
stains  being  removed  by  local  treatment.  If  such 
articles  have  to  be  wet-washed  proceed  as  follows : 
Fold  the  lace  carefully  and  fasten  with  a  few  stitches 
along  the  edge.  Next  place  it  in  a  little  bag  made 
of  fine  old  linen,  which  should  then  be  sewed  up. 
Place  this  in  a  vessel  of  pure  olive  oil,  and  soak  for 
24  hours.  The  next  day  boil  one-quarter  of  an 
hour  in  soap  suds  made  by  dissolving  the  soap  in 
soft  water.  Rinse  in  cold  water  without  squeezing 
the  lace,  until  the  water  remains  clear;  then  pass  it 
through  thin,  slightly  blue  starch  water ;  take  out  of 
the  bag;  press  slightly  between  the  fingers,  and  iron 
with  a  hot  iron. 

Since  real  laces,  in  order  to  preserve  them,  are  very 
rarely  washed,  they  are  apt  to  be  rather  rotten  and 
very  yellow.  If  they  have  ever  been  wrongly  treated 
they  are  harder  to  clean  than  others.  By  soaking 
them  in  olive  oil  as  recommended  above,  the  thread 


114      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

which  has  become  rotten  and  thin  from  age  or  from 
washing  is  restored  to  its  former  elasticity. 

Another  method  is  as  follows :  Wind  the  lace 
smoothly  and  tightly  about  a  wide  bottle  previously 
covered  with  old  white  linen  or  similar  material. 
Tack  each  end  of  the  lace  with  a  needle  and  thread 
to  keep  it  smooth,  and  be  careful  in  wrapping  not  to 
crumple  or  fold  in  any  of  the  scallops  or  pearlins. 
After  the  lace  is  on  th«  bottle  soak  it  thoroughly  to 
the  inmost  folds  with  olive  oil  by  means  of  a  clean 
sponge.  Have  ready  in  a  kettle  a  strong  cold  lather 
of  soft  water  and  castile  soap.  Fill  the  bottle  with 
cold  water  to  prevent  its  bursting  during  boiling, 
cork  well,  and  place  it  upright  in  the  suds,  with  a 
string  round  the  neck  secured  to  the  ears  or  handle 
of  the  kettle,  to  prevent  its  knocking  about  and 
breaking  while  over  the  fire.  Let  it  boil  in  the  suds 
for  an  hour  or  more  till  the  lace  is  clean.  Then  dry 
on  the  bottle  in  the  sun.  When  dry  take  the  lace 
from  the  bottle  and  wind  it  around  a  wide  ribbon- 
spool  ;  or  lay  it  in  long  folds  ;  place  it  within  a  sheet 
of  smooth  white  paper  and  press  it  for  a  few  days  in 
a  large  book. 

Instead  of  a  bottle  a  round  piece  of  hard  wood 
about  10  inches  long  and  4  inches  in  diameter  may 
be  used.  The  wood  with  the  lace  wound  about  it, 
and  the  whole  covered  with  a  white  linen  cloth,  is 
worked  in  the  soap  bath  between  the  hands  till  the 
lace  is  clean. 

A  perforated  cylinder  of  white  porcelain,  Fig.  9, 
may  also  be  preferably  employed  in  place  of  a  bottle. 


WET   CLEANING.  115 

Cover  the  cylinder  with  fine  muslin,  wrap  the  lace 
about  the  cylinder  and  cover  the  whole  with  muslin. 
Boil  in  soap  suds,  rinse  in  cold  water,  starch  and 

FIG.  9. 


dry,  the  latter  being  quickly  effected  in  consequence 
of  the  many  perforations  of  the  cylinder.  When  dry 
remove  the  lace  from  the  cylinder. 

Washing  curtains.  White  cotton  curtains  are  first 
soaked  and  rinsed  in  three  or  four  cold  water  baths 
to  get  rid  of  loose  dirt.  They  are  then  put  through 
two  hot  soap  baths  by  squeezing  them  between  the 
hands,  avoiding  all  rubbing.  After  thorough  rinsing, 
handle  the  curtains  for  half  an  hour  in  a  warm  bath, 
to  which  sufficient  eau  de  Javelle  has  been  added  to 
make  it  feel  slippery.  Next  treat  the  curtains  for  10 
minutes  in  a  sulphuric  acid  bath,  rinse  thoroughly 
and  blue  in  a  fresh  bath  with  ultramarine.  Then 
starch  with  boiled  wheat  starch,  adding  some  talcum 
to  the  latter  to  give  the  curtains  the  appearance  of 
newness.  Stir  the  talcum  into  the  cold  starch,  and 
boil,  but  only  for  a  short  time,  as  by  too  long  boiling 
the  starch  loses  its  adhesive  power.  Pass  the  cur- 
tains as  hot  as  possible  through  the  diluted  starch, 
squeeze  well,  and  put  them  in  the  curtain-stretcher. 


Il6      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Cream-colored  curtains  are  treated  exactly  as 
above,  except  that  they  are  not  blued,  but  their  dye 
is  renewed  if  necessary.  Dye  in  lukewarm  baths,  ac- 
cording to  the  tone  desired,  with  a  few  drops  of  color- 
ing matter,  for  instance,  vesuvine  G,  phosphine,  chry- 
soidine  ;  the  latter  two  products  yielding  colors  with  a 
reddish  tinge,  and  the  former  a  dull  yellow  ecru. 
Beautiful  dull  tones  are  also  obtained  with  neutral 
yellow  in  a  warm  bath.  Or,  color  with  a  little  anotto 
dissolved  hot  with  soda,  this  yielding  the  most  deli- 
cate tones.  The  curtains  are  starched  like  white 
curtains. 

Cream-colored  curtains,  which  have  been  dyed  with 
dye-woods  or  catechu,  are  recognized  after  washing 
by  their  grey  or  brownish  color.  Their  original 
color  is  restored  by  passing  them  through  a  bath  to 
which  a  few  drops  of  hydrochloric  acid  have  been 
added ;  subsequent  thorough  rinsing  is  absolutely 
necessary,  otherwise  the  threads  would  be  burnt  by 
the  acid. 

To  curtains  that  have  a  gray  dirty  tone,  a  brighter 
color  may  be  imparted  by  passing  them  through  a 
warm  bath  containing  diamine  yellow  with  the  addi- 
tion of  auramine  II.  The  color  of  curtains  may  also 
be  revived  in  a  cold-water  bath  to  which  a  few  drops 
of  nitrate  of  iron  have  been  added. 

Curtains  which  will  stand  washing  in  the  machine 
should  be  put  in  a  coarse  net  unless  the  attendant 
knows  his  business  thoroughly,  when  they  may  be 
put  in  loose.  In  any  case  run  them  a  few  minutes 
with  cold  water  or  very  weak  soda.  After  drawing 


WET   CLEANING.  I  I  7 

off  this  water,  run  them  in  strong  soap  suds  with  a 
little  soda,  taking  care  there  is  plenty  of  liquor  to 
prevent  the  curtains  from  getting  torn.  Begin  cold 
and  warm  up,  and  after  about  ten  to  fifteen  minutes 
draw  off  the  lye  and  replace  with  fresh.  Next  boil 
the  curtains.  Then  rinse,  first  warm  and  then  cold  ; 
blue  in  the  machine,  centrifuge,  and  finish  with 
wheat  or  potato  starch.  Finally  dry  on  a  stretching 
frame. 

Washing  colored  curtains.  When  curtains  inter- 
woven with  colored  yarn  are  to  be  cleaned  they 
should  be  examined  as  to  whether  the  colors  have 
already  bled  on  to  the  white  ground.  Colored  cur- 
tains should  be  tested  as  to  the  action  of  soap  on 
them.  If  the  colors  are  very  fugitive,  the  curtains 
are  washed  by  hand  as  quickly  as  possible  in  a  cold 
soap  bath  made  with  as  neutral  a  soap  as  can 
be  got.  Care  must  be  had  to  keep  different  colored 
articles  separate.  If  the  dyes  are  fast  the  machine 
can  be  used.  First  rinse  the  curtains  for  a  few  min- 
utes in  cold  water,  then  run  them  successively  in 
two  lukewarm — rather  cold  than  warm — soap  baths, 
rinse  and  add  to  the  last  rinsing  water  some  acetic 
acid  to  liven  the  colors.  The  machine  should  not  be 
stopped  during  the  changes  in  the  liquors,  to  prevent 
colored  parts  lying  on  white  parts  and  bleeding  on 
to  them. 

Red  cotton  curtains  are  brushed  cold.  If  they 
contain  black  or  dark  portions,  they  are  soured  hot 
in  the  sulphuric  acid  bath,  rinsed  and  centrifuged. 

Washing   veils.     Different  treatment   is  required 


Il8      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

for  white  and  colored  veils.  White  veils  are  washed 
in  blood-warm  soap  water,  gently  wrung  out.  rinsed 
in  cold  water,  blued,  starched,  beaten  half-dry  be- 
tween the  hands,  and  finally  hung  up  to  dry  thor- 
oughly. 

Black  and  colored  veils  are  cleaned  by  rinsing  in 
ox-gall  and  water  to  remove  the  dirt ;  then  in  pure 
water  to  remove  the  ox- gall,  and  finally  in  a  little 
gum-water  to  stiffen  and  crisp  them.  They  are 
clapped  half-dry  between  the  hands,  and  finally  hung 
up  to  dry  thoroughly. 

For  cleaning  and  renovating  colored,  and  especially 
black,  veils,  some  cleaners  only  use  whiskey,  which 
imparts  a  characteristic  lustre  to  the  tissues.  They 
are  then  stiffened  with  gum-water,  clapped  between 
the  hands,  and  finally  ironed  between  two  damp 
linen  cloths. 

Washing  silk  and  silver  laces.  Place  the  laces  in 
curdled  milk  for  24  ho^urs.  Stir  a  piece  of  good 
soap,  reduced  to  shavings,  in  2  quarts  of  soft  water, 
add  a  proportionate  quantity  of  honey  and  fresh  ox- 
gall,  and  beat  the  whole  for  some  time.  If  it  be- 
comes too  thick,  add  water  so  that  a  thin  paste  is 
formed.  Allow  this  to  stand  for  12  hours  and  then 
apply  it  to  the  wet  laces.  Then  wrap  a  moist  cloth 
around  a  mangle  roller,  around  the  cloth  the  laces, 
and  around  the  latter  another  moist  cloth.  The  laces 
ars  then  mangled,  they  being  occasionally  moistened 
with  water,  and  several  times  brushed  over  with  the 
above-mentioned  paste.  Next  soak  gum  arabic  in 
water  until  completely  dissolved,  add  an  equal  quan- 


WET    CLEANING.  119 

tity  of  sugar,  and  when  this  is  completely  dissolved, 
and  the  solution  has  become  clear,  immerse  the  laces 
in  it;  then  mangle  them  smooth  between  two  cloths, 
and  hang  them  up  to  dry. 

Washing  gold  laces.  Place  them  over  night  in 
very  dilute  vinegar  or  a  poor  quality  of  white  wine, 
and  then  proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  with  silver 
laces. 

If  the  laces,  etc.,  are  worn  so  that  the  white  ground 
shows  through,  they  may  be  restored  as  follows: 
Extract  50  parts  by  weight  of  shellac,  2  of  dragon's 
blood,  and  2  of  turmeric  root  with  strong  alcohol, 
and  decant  the  ruby-red  extract.  Apply  the  extract 
with  a  camel's-hair  brush  to  the  articles  to  be  re- 
stored, and  then  pass  over  them  at  the  height  of 
several  inches  a  hot  flat-iron,  so  that  the  laces  are 
only  exposed  to  the  heat  without  coming  in  actual 
contact  with  the  iron. 

Cleaning  gold  and  silver  galloons.  If  these  have 
been  ripped  off  and  are  not  too  dirty,  they  may  be 
washed  with  rectified  turpentine.  They  may  also  be 
soaked  for  some  hours  in  water  to  which  acetic  acid 
has  been  added  and  finally  brushed  with  soap  solu- 
tion by  means  of  a  soft  brush.  For  cleaning  gold 
embroideries  on  a  dark  ground  rouge  is  recom- 
mended. For  gold  and  silver  embroideries  on  a 
light  ground  use  very  fine  whiting  or  Vienna  lime 
and  gently  and  carefully  rub  the  embroidery  with  a 
soft  brush  dipped  into  the  dry  powder,  so  that 
nothing  drops  upon  the  fabric  beneath. 

An  excellent  plan   for  cleaning   gold   and   silver 


120      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

galloons,  embroideries,  fringes,  etc.,  is  as  follows: 
Dip  a  small  pad  of  cotton  in  pulverized  tartar  and 
rub  the  articles  till  they  are  bright,  taking  care  not 
to  soil  the  fabric  beneath. 

Cleaning  parasols.  The  cleaning  of  parasols  on 
the  frame  presents  many  difficulties,  but  is  apt  to  be 
a  remunerative  branch  of  the  cleaner's  business, 
especially  during  the  spring  and  summer  months. 
On  receiving  such  articles  they  should  be  carefully 
examined  as  to  their  fitness  for  cleaning,  as  they  are 
frequently  worn  in  the  creases  and  damaged  on  top. 
Such  parasols  can  only  be  cleaned  with  benzine; 
they  would  not  stand  wet-washing,  as  they  would 
immediately  split.  It  is  therefore  best  not  to  under- 
take them  at  all.  * 

White  silk  and  cotton  parasols  are  best  cleaned  on 
the  frame  by  washing  in  cold  soap  suds  and  scrub- 
bing the  crease  streaks  with  a  soft  brush.  Next 
rinse  the  parasol  in  warm  water,  then  pour  over  it  a 
dilute  solution  of  sulphuric  or  saccharic  acid  and 
rinse  again  in  clean  water  to  remove  every  trace  of 
acid  from  both  the  goods  and  frame.  The  parasol, 
while  open,  is  now  rubbed  off  with  a  piece  of  chamois, 
and  pieces  of  white  paper  are  inserted  between  the 
metal  parts  and  the  goods;  it  is  then  whirled  a 
couple  of  minutes  in  warm  air  and  then  allowed  to 
dry  while  still  raised.  White  cotton  parasols  should 
be  treated  with  warm  eau  de  Javelle  instead  of  sac- 
charic acid.  The  handle  should,  if  in  any  way  pos- 
sible, be  kept  dry,  otherwise  the  color  and  lacquer 
are  likely  to  suffer. 


WET   CLEANING.  121 

Colored  and  checkered  parasols  ^re  cleaned  in  the 
same  manner,  but  black  checkered  covers  should  not 
be  treated  with  acid,  common  salt  being  substituted 
to  keep  the  color  from  running.  Embroidered  para- 
sols are  also  washed  in  the  same  manner ;  should 
the  colors  of  the  embroidery  run,  pass  the  parasol 
through  warm  soap  suds,  rinse  immediately,  dry 
quickly  with  a  piece  of  chamois,  and  cover  the  em- 
broidered parts  with  plaster  of  Paris,  which  will 
rapidly  absorb  the  remaining  water  and  thus  prevent 
the  colors  .from  running.  Finally  dry  the  parasol 
quickly  in  the  sun  or  by  artificial  heat. 

In  wet-cleaning  parasols  it  will  be  necessary  to 
see  whether  the  joints  are  lined  with  leather  or  col- 
ored silk ;  if  this  is  the  case  the  utmost  dispatch  in 
treating  the  parasols  is  imperative.  Light-colored 
parasols  should  be  cleaned  with  soap,  dark  ones  with 
quillaia  and  ammonia.  Those  that  are  lined,  as 
mentioned  above,  should  be  wrapped  in  a  clean 
cloth,  white  paper  inserted  under  the  ribs,  again  well 
rubbed  and  quickly  dried.  A  weak  gelatine  dress- 
ing will  also  be  necessary.  '  Parasols  with  wooden 
handles  must  not  remain  long  in  the  wash-liquor,  as 
otherwise  the  wood  might  swell.  The  parasols 
should  also  be  frequently  turned  while  drying. 

Dark  parasols  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  and  when 
the  latter  has  evaporated,  brushed  with  quillaia  bark 
decoction  and  dried  as  previously  described.  Sour- 
ing with  dilute  acetic  acid  is  very  beneficial  to  the 
colors,  but  a  good  sponging  and  dressing  with  gela- 
tine solution  mixed  with  alcohol  will  also  answer. 
Parasols  treated  in  this  manner  look  like  new. 


122      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

As  the  parasols  are  dried  while  raised,  ironing  will 
not  be  required.  Trimmings  of  ruffles,  plaits,  or  lace, 
must,  however,  be  ironed.  Ornaments,  such  as 
beads,  or  cords,  should  be  removed  before  cleaning 
and  treated  separately.  Rust  spots  are  removed 
with  hot  saccharic  acid  or  some  similar  stain-remov- 
ing agent. 

Very  fine  parasols  which  are  only  slightly  soiled 
should  only  be  cleaned  with  benzine,  and,  when  the 
latter  has  evaporated,  brushed  with  distilled  water 
and  alcohol. 

Washing  carpets.  In  carpet  washing  we  have  to 
deal  with  dyes  of  all  sorts,  from  the  fastest  in  every 
respect  to  those  which  are  not  fast  even  to  water, 
and  many  degrees  of  fastness  may  occur  in  the  same 
carpet.  It  necessarily  follows  that  no  hard  and  fast 
rules  can  be  laid  down,  and  that  every  carpet  must 
be  treated  on  its  merits. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done,  no  matter  whether  the 
carpet  is  to  be  dry-cleaned  or  wet-washed,  is  to  free 
it  from  dust,  either  by  beating  by  hand  or  machine. 
This  preliminary  must  on  no  account  be  neglected  if 
the  carpet  is  to  look  any  better  after  washing  or  dry- 
cleaning  than  it  did  before.  Very  dirty  carpets, 
especially  those  about  which  there  is  no  doubt  as  to 
the  fastness  of  their  colors,  are  wet-washed.  If,  how- 
ever, too  large  so  that  they  cannot  be  centrifuged, 
and  particularly  when  they  are  not  too  dirty,  it  is 
more  advantageous  to  clean  them  with  benzine. 
Stains  of  stearine,  fat  and  oil  should  previously  be 
removed. 


WET   CLEANING.  123 

It  is  advisable  to  test  the  fastness  of  the  dyes  in 
the  carpets  to  be  wet-washed  with  a  cold  neutral 
soap  solution.  The  best  way  to  do  this  is  to  let  the 
solution  act  for  a  few  minutes  on  a  corner  of  the 
carpet.  The  solution  should  be  strong  enough  to 
lather  well.  After  the  solution  has  acted  fora  suffi- 
cient length  of  time,  rinse  well,  moisten  with  dilute 
vinegar,  and  dry  by  pressure  between  cloths.  The 
subsequent  operations  must  be  regulated  according 
to  the  appearance  now  presented  by  the  corner  of 
the  carpet. 

Soak  the  carpet  in  one  or  two  lukewarm  soda 
baths,  and  after  taking  it  out,  let  it  drain  off  well. 
Prepare  a  soap  bath  sufficient  in  quantity  to  treat  the 
whole  carpet,  as  it  is  not  advisable  to  use  first  one 
kind  of  soap  solution  and  then  another.  Lay  the 
carpet  smooth  upon  a  table  and  brush  it  over  on 
both  sides  with  the  soap  bath,  rinse  in  a  soft  water 
bath,  repeat  the  brushing,  first  the  wrong,  and  then 
the  right,  side,  draw  through  a  soda  bath,  and  rinse. 
If  the  carpet  is  too  large  for  brushing  upon  a  table, 
it  may  be  spread  out  upon  the  floor  of  the  establish- 
ment and  brushed  thoroughly  with  soap  by  means  of 
a  scrubbing-brush  with  a  long  handle.  It  is  then 
rinsed  off,  best  by  hanging  it  up  and  directing  the 
spray  from  a  watering  ho?e  over  the  soaped  surface 
until  the  water  runs  off  clear.  The  front  of  the 
carpet  is  next  brushed  over  with  water,  to  which 
some  acetic  acid  has  been  added  to  liven  the  colors. 
When  both  sides  have  been  washed  and  rinsed,  cen- 
trifuge the  carpet  and  dry  it  quickly  in  a  hot  air 


124      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

chamber.     The  soap  used  for  washing  should  be  as 
nearly  neutral  as  possible. 

In  place  of  soap,  quillaia  bark  decoction  with  an 
addition  of  ammonia  may  be  advantageously  used  for 
wet-washing  carpets,  especially  those  with  printed 
colored  designs. 


IV. 

FINISHING   CLEANED   FABRICS. 

THE  object  of  finishing  is  to  give  the  cleaned  or 
dyed  articles  the  required  feel,  lustre,  shape,  and  a 
good  appearance  in  general.  This  operation  in- 
cludes starching,  gumming,  steaming,  ironing,  press- 
ing, stretching,  drying,  etc.  Everything  depends  on 
a  good  finish,  so  that  the  greatest  attention  has  to  be 
paid  to  the  operation.  No  matter  how  carefully  an 
article  may  have  been  cleaned,  it  presents  a  poor 
appearance  if  the  required  finish  is  wanting,  while, 
on  the  other  hand,  any  defects  which  could  not  be 
removed  are  more  readily  overlooked  if  the  article 
is  well  finished. 

The  cleaning  operations  leave  the  articles  more  or 
less  wet,  and  this  moisture  has  to  be  got  rid  of  by 
wringing.  With  small  lots  this  may  be  done  by 
hand  or  the  familiar  wringer,  which  may  be  applied 
to  nearly  all  fabrics,  with  the  exception  of  velvet, 
velveteen,  plush,  and  all  fabrics  having  a  pile.  The 
main  thing  in  wringing  is  to  fold  the  articles  the 
right  way  so  that  when  a  wringer  is  used  they  are 
drawn  into  the  machine  in  the  direction  of  their 
length. 

The  best  means  of  removing  the  water  from  wet 
(  125  ) 


126      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

textile  fabrics  is,  however,  by  the  use  of  a  centri- 
fugal or  hydro-extractor,  of  which  there  are  many 
types,  some  being  made  with  the  driving  arrange- 
ment underneath  and  are  known  as  under-driven 
hydro-extractors ;  while  others  have  all  the  working 
parts  at  the  top  of  the  machine  and  are  known  as  over- 
driven hydro-extractors.  The  principle  is,  however, 
the  same  in  all  the  machines,  an  inner  perforated 
cage  revolving  at  great  speed  in  which  the  goods 
are  placed.  By  the  centrifugal  action  set  up  on  the 
revolution  of  the  machine  the  water  contained  in  the 
articles  placed  in  the  inner  cage  is  forced  to  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  cage,  and  finds  its  way  through 
the  perforations  of  the  latter,  and  is  conducted  away 
by  the  outer-casing.  In  hydro-extractors  practically 
no  pressure  is  brought  upon  the  goods,  the  pile  of 
such  goods  as  velvets  and  plushes  is  not  injured  in 
any  way,  so  that  they  are  in  a  fit  condition  for  other 
treatment.  The  operation  with  hydro-extractors  is 
very  simple ;  all  that  is  necessary  is  .to  pack  the 
goods  well  round  the  sides  of  the  inner  cage,  taking 
care  that  the  latter  is  properly  balanced,  that  is  to 
say  that  one  side  does  not  contain  a  heavier  weight 
than  the  other. 

Generally,  when  the  goods  are  removed  from  the 
hydro- extractor,  they  will  be  found  sufficiently  dry 
for  all  the  finishing  operations. 

Finishing  white  and  colored  woolen  shawls,  fichus, 
etc.  Open- meshed  crocheted  and  woven  shawls  are 
passed  through  the  hydro-extractor,  and  while  still 
moist  stretched  upon  a  cushion  where  they  are 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  I2/ 

allowed  to  dry,  care  being  taken  to  get  them  into 
good  shape.  Square  shawls  may  be  loosely  stretched 
in  a  frame. 

Long  shawls  and  all  closely  woven  fabrics  are 
steamed  and  partially  lightly  pressed,  but  generally 
cold.  Blankets  are  steamed. 

Finishing  white  and  colored  silk  shawls,  etc.  White 
and  colored  articles  are  finished  with  dilute  starch  or 
pure  gelatine.  The  gelatine  liquor  must  not  redden 
blue  litmus  paper,  since  when  the  blue  (ultramarine) 
is  added,  the  latter  by  the  action  of  the  acid  turns 
grey,  and  a  pure  white  tone  cannot  be  obtained. 

All  wet-washed  silk  articles  require  a  dressing ; 
suitable  for  this  purpose  are:  Irish  moss,  gum  traga- 
canth  and  gelatine;  the  latter  two  for  white  articles. 
Irish  moss  is  best  for  black  and  dark-colored 
silk.  To  prevent  black  garments  from  becoming 
hard  in  dressing,  and  to  give  them  a  soft  feel,  dress- 
ing oil  is  used.  The  previously  dried  articles  are 
drawn  through  one  of  the  above-mentioned  dressing 
solutions,  and  the  dressing  preparation  is  applied  by 
means  of  a  soft  brush  or  a  soft  sponge.  The  strength 
of  the  dressing  depends  on  whether  the  article  re- 
quires a  hard  or  soft  feel. 

When  dressing  silk  it  may  happen  that  it  wrinkles, 
this  being  due  to  the  tension  of  the  thread  produced 
by  the  heat.  This  is  the  case  with  most  silk  fabrics, 
even  when  dressing  them  only  with  water.  Such 
wrinkles  are  removed  by  pressing  with  a  medium- 
warm  iron  between  tissue  paper. 

Finishing  laces,  embroideries,  etc.  Imitation  articles 


128      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

of  this  kind  require  a  dressing  of  starch,  and  are 
either  stretched  upon  a  cushion,  or  carefully  ironed 
when  half-dry.  Real  laces,  etc.,  which  have  been 
wet-washed  are  dressed  with  a  very  dilute  solution 
of  gum  tragacanth  or  gelatine.  Laces  with  very 
delicate  designs  are  pinned  to  a  cushion  to  prevent 
disarrangement  of  the  design;  others  are  carefully 
ironed. 

Plush  and  similar  articles  acquire  a  soft,  velvety 
feel  by  taking  them  through  a  soap  bath. 

Black  silk  laces,  etc.,  acquire  a  good  lustre  by 
dressing  with  decoction  of  fleawort  seed,  or  they  are 
squeezed  well  between  the  hands  and  ironed  dry. 

With  laces,  cleaning  is  of  secondary  consideration, 
smoothing  and  glossing  them,  which  is  less  effected 
by  ironing  than  by  stretching  and  steaming  being 
of  prime  importance.  A  steaming  apparatus  of 
copper  or  zinc  may,  according  to  requirement,  have 
the  form  of  a  plate  or  cylinder  and  should  be  covered 
with  baize  or  fine  muslin.  After  steaming  the  laces, 
small  table  covers,  crocheted  articles,  etc.,  are 
smoothly  pinned  to  a  cushion  and  dried. 

Dressing  for  white  embroideries.  Treat  with  fat 
grain  soap  solution  heated  to  about  95°  F.,  to  which 
some  ammonia  has  been  added ;  blue  in  lukewarm 
water  with  methyl  violet  and  a  little  sulphuric  acid. 
By  this  means  the  yellow  tone  and  dull  lustre  will 
disappear. 

Finishing  curtains.  This  has  been  fully  referred 
to  under  "Washing  Curtains."  To  prevent  as  much 
as  possible  tulle  and  curtains  from  sticking  together, 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  I2g 

the  use  of  the  following  starch  preparation  may  be 
recommended :  Stir  into  60  quarts  of  cold  water  7  to 
8  quarts  of  clear  chloride  of  lime  solution  of  7°  Be, 
then  introduce,  stirring  constantly,  22  Ibs.  of  potato 
flour  and  bring  the  whole  to  the  boiling  point.  At 
from  140°  to  1 86°  F.  the  result  will  be  such  a  stiff 
mass  that  it  can  scarcely  be  stirred.  When  this  con- 
sistency has  been  reached,  shut  off  the  steam,  stir 
constantly,  and  in  about  5  to  10  minutes  the  mass 
will  be  found  to  become  thinner  in  consistency. 
Now  introduce  steam,  and  after  actual  boiling  for 
about  5  minutes,  the  mass  will  become  thin  as  water. 
Continue  boiling  for  at  least  ^  hour  for  the  volatili- 
zation of  the  chlorine  gas.  Then  add  one  to  two 
quarts  of  glycerine,  and  boil  again  for  five  minutes, 
when  the  dressing  can  be  used  without  the  addition 
of  water. 

Plush  draperies  are  thoroughly  steamed  after  dry- 
ing, and  the  pile  is  raised  by  brushing. 

When  the  curtains  have  been  starched  they  are 
stretched  while  moist  in  a  curtain-stretcher. 

Finishing  men 's  garments.  Men's  garments,  are 
after  drying  steamed  on  a  steam- board.  The  latter 
consists  of  a  slightly  arched  hollow  copper  cylinder, 
the  top  of  which  is  perforated  with  a  large  number 
of  holes.  It  should  be  so  constructed  that  the  water 
formed  by  condensation  separates  at  the  lower  end, 
so  that  only  dry  steam  passes  out  through  the  holes. 
The  construction  of  such  steam  boards  will  be  readily 
understood  from  the  accompanying  illustrations. 
Fig.  10  shows  a  large  steam-board,  about  64  inches 
9 


I3O      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

long.     It  consists  of  a  front  and  back  part  which  can 
be   used  independent  of  each  other.     The  shape  is 


FIG.  10. 


such  that  pantaloons  may  be  drawn  over  the  front 
portion.  The  arrangement  for  freeing  the  steam 
from  water  is  such  that  it  is  impossible  for  moisture 


FIG.  ii. 


to  pass  into  the  goods.     After  steaming  the  garments 
are  pressed. 

The    steam-board    shown    in    Fig.    1 1    serves    for 


FIG.  12. 


steaming  the  sleeves  of  men's  coats.  Fig.  12  is  a 
steam  board  for  pantaloons,  and  Fig.  13  a  steam- 
board  for  coats. 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  131 

Another  form  in  which  these  steamers  are  made  is 
that  of  a  table  with  a  rounded  top,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
14.  The  table  is  mounted  upon  a  strong  wooden 

FIG.  13. 


frame,  and  serves  as  a  substitute  for  the  ironing  cush- 
ion mentioned  later  on  in  pressing  men's  garments. 

The  steam  is  conveyed  into  the  steamers  by  pipes, 
and  there  are  also  exit  pipes  for  condensed  water 

FIG.  14. 


and  surplus  steam.  In  order  that  dry  steam  may 
always  be  available  and  no  moisture  appear  upon 
the  steamer,  the  pipe  conveying  the  steam  into  the 
steamer  should  run  the  entire  length  of  the  latter, 
the  holes  should  lie  downward,  and  the  bottom  of  the 


132      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

steamer  be  so  shaped  that  the  centre  is  the  deepest 
part.  By  the  holes  lying  downward  the  water  forced 
along  with  the  steam  is  prevented  from  being  carried 
upward  by  the  steam  and  by  the  convex  shape  of 
the  bottom,  the  water  condensed  in  the  steam  box  is 
impelled  downward.  It  is  also  advisable  to  place  a 
finely  perforated  cover  of  copper  over  the  steam- 
pipe,  and  to  see  that  the  steam  produced  by  the 
boiler  is  not  too  wet.  , 

For  pressing  men's  garments  Vollbrecht  gives  the 
following  directions :  Provide  a  solid  cushion  about 
3  feet  long,  16  to  24  inches  wide  and  6  to  8  inches 
deep.  This  cushion  should  be  shaped  so  that  it  is 
rounded  off  on  one  side  similar  to  a  steam-board 
and  be  covered  with  firm  linen  free  from  dressing. 
For  pressing  serves  a  block  of  iron  with  a  detacha- 
ble handle,  and  this  should  be  thoroughly  heated 
without  being  red-hot.  For  brushing  off  the  steam 
use  a  close,  short-bristled  brush,  like  a  large  clothes 
brush,  and  in  addition  have  a  strong  clean  piece  of 
linen  free  from  dressing. 

Pressing  is  executed  as  follows :  The  portion  of 
the  garment  to  be  pressed  is  laid  smoothly  upon  the 
cushion.  Moisten  the  clean  linen  cloth  with  water, 
and  after  squeezing  it  out,  lay  it  on  the  article  and 
run  the  hot  iron  over  it  until  it  appears  dry.  Then 
remove  the  cloth  quickly  and  beat  the  steamed  part 
with  the  brush  till  the  steam  has  disappeared.  Finally 
stretch  and  brush  the  article. 

When  pressing  a  man's  coat,  press  the  sleeves  first, 
then  the  breast  or  front  portions.  Next  come  the 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  133 

lapels  and  collar,  pressing  them  sharply  under  the 
linen  cloth  doubled.  Finally  press  the  back  portions 
of  the  skirt.  The  lining  is  then  pressed  without, 
however,  using  the  damp  linen  cloth,  which  finishes 
the  coat. 

Pantaloons  are  laid  so  that  the  crease  comes 
closely  back  of  the  side  seam.  Press  the  front  side 
up  to  the  crotch,  then  place  them  so  that  the  side 
seam  lies  upon  the  inner  seam,  press  once  more  but 
only  to  near  the  knee,  so  that  there  is  a  slight  crease 
back  which  contributes  towards  a  good  set.  The 
band,  lining,  pockets  and  the  upper  inner  portion  to 
the  crotch  are  then  pressed  dry,  as  well  as  the  facing, 
which  finishes  the  operation. 

When  pressing  waistcoats,  the  two  front  portions 
of  the  fabric  and  the  collar  are  pressed  wet,  and  the 
inside  portions  of  the  front  parts  dry,  as  well  as  the 
back,  the  latter  being  pressed  on  the  outer  right  side. 

Finishing  ladies'  garments,  A  good  finish  of 
these  articles,  the  correct  choice  of  the  dressing 
medium,  and  smoothing  are  of  the  utmost  importance. 
Chemically  cleaned  articles  give  the  least  trouble ; 
thinner  articles  need  only  be  brushed  while  ironing 
with  gelatine  water.  All  other  articles  require  no 
further  dressing,  and  by  a  medium  hot  flat  iron  the 
shape  can  be  readily  restored. 

Starch  together  with  some  gelatine  is  the  best 
dressing  for  light-colored  linen,  cotton,  half  wool 
and  thin  wool  fabrics.  For  dark  fabrics,  glue  and 
Irish  moss  are  used,  and  for  silk,  gum  tragacanth  or 
gelatine.  The  dressing  should  be  employed  in  as 


134      URY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

finely  divided  a  state  as  possible,  which  is  effected  by 
thorough  soaking,  long  boiling  and  straining. 

For  cotton  goods  a  good  brand  of  wheat  starch 
may  be  used,  which  for  light-colored  and  white 
articles  is  slightly  blued  with  ultramarine.  For  dark 
blue,  dark  red  and  black  cottons,  as  well  as  for  wool 
and  half-wool  fabrics  a  mixture  of  glue  and  gelatine 
is  employed  as  dressing.  Bad-smelling  glue  should 
not  be  used  as  the  odor  cannot  be  removed  from  the 
garments. 

Thoroughly  boiled  rice  starch  is  an  excellent 
dressing  for  men's  and  ladies'  summer  garments 
which  have  been  wet-washed.  The.  articles  are 
passed  through  the  starch  bath  at  a  temperature  not 
above  86°  F.  Previous  centrifuging  is  absolutely 
necessary,  so  that  the  dressing  can  be  suitably  thick- 
ened or  thinned  in  accordance  with  the  fabrics. 
When  the  dressing  has  been  applied  the  articles  are 
centrifuged,  then  stretched,  dried  and  ironed  upon 
the  wrong  side  under  a  wet  linen  cloth.  The  work 
is  more  easily  effected  by  means  of  a  steam-table. 
Benzine-washed  garments  seldom  require  dressing 
and,  if  so,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  brush  the  lining 
with  a  moist  sponge,  and  iron  immediately. 

All  starched  articles  are  ironed  in  an  air-dry  state, 
though  very  hard  fabrics  may  have  to  be  previously 
sprinkled. 

Ladies'  garments  which  have  been  ripped,  as  well 
as  lighter  articles  of  silk,  half- silk,  wool,  half-wool, 
or  cotton,  after  having  been  dressed  with  a  suitable 
medium,  are  dried  in  a  drying  cylinder  or  drying 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS. 


135 


table,  the  construction  of  which  is  readily  seen  from 
the  illustrations,  Fig.  15  showing  a  drying  cylinder 
and  Fig.  16  a  drying  table. 

FIG.  15. 


Fig.    17    shows    steam-heated    puff   irons,   manu- 
factured by  Edward  C.  Grever  &  Co.,  Cincinnati,  O. 


FIG.  i 6. 


They  are  tubular  devices  of  various  shapes,  as  seen 
in  the  drawing  and  which  can  be  heated  by  steam. 
By  stretching  the  various  articles  over  them,  choos- 


136      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ing  that  which  will  best  suit  the  piece  in  hand,  a 
finish  can  be  easily  and  quickly  given  not  readily 
obtainable  in  other  ways.  They  require  very  little 

FIG.  17. 


iiirr 


space.  The  operator  need  not  carry  the  work 
around  the  table.  For  use,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
draw  down  the  iron  desired. 

Dressings  for  garment  dyers  and  laundrymen.  For 
light  woolens  which  have  to  retain  to  the  full  the 
characteristic  feel  of  the  material,  pure  gristle  glue 
is  the  best  dressing.  Choose  the  glue  as  nearly  free 
from  color  and  smell  as  possible.  The  glue  must  be 
swelled  in  cold  water,  and  then  boiled  before  use. 
Add  a  little  borax  to  preserve  it,  and  also  a  little 
acetic  acid  and  glycerine.  The  object  of  the  acid  is 
to  preserve  the  glue  solution,  varying  with  circum- 
stances. The  thinner  the  wool,  the  stronger  the 
dressing  must  be  made.  The  solution  is  used  warm, 
but  not  hot.  For  wool-silk,  and  all  women's  gar- 
ments, the  above  dressing  is  about  the  best  that  can 
be  had.  In  finishing  half-woolens,  glue  is  used  in 
conjunction  with  clear-boiled  starch  and  a  little  acetic 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  137 

acid.  The  finish  is  used  cold,  or  at  most  lukewarm. 
If  hot,  it  will  strip  too  much  of  the  dye  from  the 
cotton.  The  garments  must  be  uniformly  centri- 
fuged  after  dressing,  and  hung  up  to  dry  without 
any  creases.  The  drying  must  be  at  a  moderate 
temperature,  or  the  glue  will  show. 

In  finishing  pure  silk  use  simply  a  solution  of  col- 
orless gelatine,  with  the  usual  addition  of  acetic  acid. 
The  dressing  is  applied  warm  with  a  sponge  or  very 
soft  brush,  and  the  drying  is  done  at  a  very  low 
heat.  For  black  silk  it  is  a  good  plan  to  add  a  de- 
coction of  curled  mint  as  well  as  acetic  acid  to  the 
latter.  Half-silk  is  finished  in  the  same  manner. 

There  are  many  dressings  for  cotton  and  linen, 
but  only  a  few  of  them  are  available  on  fabrics  which 
have  been  made  up  into  garments.  Nothing  is  better 
than  good  wheat  starch.  A  little  glue  can  be  added 
to  it  for  colored  cottons,  and  a  little  wax  improves 
the  subsequent  feel. 

Gloss  starch.  I.  Boil  9  Ibs.  pulverized  borax,  3 
Ibs.  stearine  and  3  Ibs.  white  wax  in  a  proportionate 
quantity  of  soda  lye  of  20°  Be.  to  a  liquid  mass  of 
uniform  consistency,  and  evaporate  to  dryness.  Mix 
the  product  thus  obtained  in  the  proportion  of  I  :  10 
with  rice  starch.  The  gloss-starch  thus  obtained 
imparts  to  clothes  starched  with  it  a  beautiful  gloss 
and  the  stiffness  of  a  board. 

2.  Rice   starch    100    parts  by  weight,   pulverized 
borax  5,  pulverized  boric  acid  2.6.     Rub  all  through 
a  hair  sieve. 

3.  Pulverized  starch  I  lb.,  pulverized  borax  3  ozs., 
common  salt  ^  oz.,  white  gum  arabic  9^  ozs, 


138      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

4.  Elastic  gloss-starch.     Mix  100  parts  by  weight 
of  wheat  starch  with  0.7  to  0.8   part  by  weight  of 
stearine. 

5.  Cream  gloss.     Lard    7   Ibs.,  ammonia   of  0.88 
specific    gravity    I    lb.,    bleached    beeswax    ^    lb., 
glycerine  of  1.26  specific  gravity  ^  lb.,  and  a  few 
drops   of  oil  of  citronella.     Melt  the  lard   and  the 
wax,  stirring  constantly  until  the  cooling  mass  ac- 
quires a  salve-like  consistency;   then  add  the  glycer- 
ine, oil  of  citronella,  and  ammonia,  previously  stirred 
together  and   mix  the  whole  thoroughly.     Of  this 
cream-gloss  add  a  small  quantity  to  the  starch. 

Water-proofing  fabrics,  i.  Boil  ^  lb.  white  Cas- 
tile soap  in  12  quarts  of  water,  and,  on  the  other 
hand,  dissolve  6  ozs.  of  alum  in  12  quarts  of  water. 
Heat  both  solutions  separately  to  about  194°  F. 
Then  pass  the  fabric  first  through  the  soap  solution, 
then  through  the  alum  solution,  and  finally  dry  in 
the  air. 

2.  For  making  cloth,  woolen,  felt,  and  cotton  fab- 
rics impervious  to  water  the  following  mixture  may 
also  be  used :   Borax  5  ozs.,  fish  glue  2  Ibs.,  sago  I 
oz.,  salep  i  oz.,  stearine  5  ozs  ,  and  water  10  quarts. 

3.  Another  formula  for  the  same  purpose  is  as  fol- 
lows:    Dissolve    5    ozs.   of    alum     in     3    quarts    of 
water  of  176°  F.     On  the  other  hand,  dissolve  22^ 
ozs.  of  lead  acetate  in  i  ^  quarts  of  water  of  158°  F. 
Mix  the  two  solutions,  allow  to  settle,  and  decant  the 
clear  liquor.     Place  the  fabric  in  the  liquor  at  the 
ordinary  temperature   for   24  hours,  and  then   dry. 
The  fabric  acquires  no  odor  and  retains  its  softness, 


FINISHING   CLEANED    FABRICS.  139 

4.  According    to    another    process    fabrics   of  all 
kinds  are  rendered  waterproof  as  follows :   Dissolve 
i  part  of  alum  and    I    part  of   lead   acetate   in   hot 
water,  stir,  and  allow  to  stand  till  the  fluid  is  clear, 
and  then  add  a  few  drops  of  isinglass  solution.     The 
fabric  is  moistened  and  handled  in  the  bath  and  then 
dried,  if  possible  stretched  in  a  frame,  and  pressed. 
For  50  quarts  of  water  there  will  be  required  about 
i   Ib.  of  alum,  I  Ib.  of  lead  acetate,  and  10  drops  of 
isinglass  solution.     The  bath  is  used  warm. 

5.  For  water-proofing  coarse  wool  stuffs,  place  the 
fabric  for  one  hour  in  a  cold  2  to  3  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  aluminium  sulphate,  then  centrifuge,  and  dry 
at  a  quite  warm  temperature.     Then   pass  for  15  to 
20   minutes   through   a   cold  soap  solution   (^   oz. 
soap  to  i  gallon  water),  centrifuge,  and  dry  hot.     If 
the   fabric   should   show   a   white    efflorescence  too 
much  aluminium  sulphate  has  been  used,  and  it  has 
to  be  washed  in  cold  water.     If  the  fabric  is  treated 
twice,  the  first  aluminium  sulphate  solution  may  be 
used  without  further  addition,  but  the  soap  solution 
must  be   fresh.     It    is   advisable    to    neutralize    the 
aluminium  sulphate  solution  with  a  little  soda  till  it 
shows  a  remaining  turbidity.     Such  solution  of  basic 
aluminium  sulphate  is  almost  equal   in  its  effect  to 
aluminium  acetate,  and  does  not  impart   a  rancid, 
acid  odor  to  the  fabric. 

A  waterproof  finish  is  also  obtained  by  placing 
the  articles  which  have  been  starched  with  starch  to 
which  glue  has  been  added,  for  a  few  hours  in  a  20 
per  cent,  formaldehyde  liquor, 


I4O      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Fire-proofing  fabrics.  For  fire-proofing  light  fab- 
rics the  dressings  chiefly  used  are  tungstate  or  phos- 
phate of  soda,  or  sulphate  of  ammonia.  For  coarse 
fabrics,  theatre  scenery,  etc.,  alum,  borax,  water-glass, 
calcium  chloride  and  magnesium  chloride  are  all 
used,  the  salt  selected  being  dissolved  and  the  solu- 
tion added  to  the  ordinary  dressing.  The  following 
two  formulas  have  been  highly  recommended. 

Nicoll 's  fire-proof  dressing.  Dissolve  in  soap- 
water,  alum  6  parts,  borax  2,  tungstate  of  soda  I, 
and  dextrine  I. 

Martin' s  fire-proof  dressing.  Dissolve  in  100  parts 
of  water,  ammonium  sulphate  8  parts,  ammonium 
carbonate  2^  parts,  boric  acid  3,  pure  borax  2, 
starch  2,  dextrine  ^. 

The  fabric  is  soaked  in  the  solution  at  86°  F.,  then 
lightly  wrung  out,  and  dried.  The  quantity  of  starch 
as  well  as  of  dextrine  may  be  changed  as  desired, 
according  to  whether  the  articles  are  to  be  made 
more  or  less  stiff. 


V. 

CLEANING  AND  DYEING   FURS,  SKIN  RUGS  AND  MATS. 

CLEANING.  Fur  cleaning  is  an  important  branch 
of  dry  cleaning,  and  also  one  of  the  most  risky,  for 
the  articles  are  sometimes  of  great  value  and  cannot 
be  treated  like  ordinary  textile  fabrics. 

The  furs  should  first  be  carefully  examined  in 
order  to  ascertain  whether  they  are  torn,  or  whether 
any  matches  have  gotten  into  them,  the  latter  being 
a  serious  matter  where  the  cleaning  is  to  be  done 
with  benzine.  As  much  dust  as  possible  should  also 
be  removed  by  beating  over  a  wire  mattress  with  a 
carpet  beater.  A  further  point  to  be  considered  is 
the  color,  and  it  depends  entirely  upon  the  dye 
which  has  to  be  used  whether  the  fur  can  be  cleaned 
with  soap  and  water,  or  must  be  treated  with  ben- 
zine. The  skin  part  must  also  be  examined  with 
the  view  of  ascertaining  whether  it  will  stand  washing. 

Polar  bear,  tiger,  leopard,  lion,  seal,  rabbit,  squirrel 
dog,  sheep  and  goat  skins  should  be  chemically 
cleaned,  that  is,  washed  in  benzine,  unless  they  are 
too  badly  soiled.  White  skins  are  best  cleaned  with 
benzine  and  benzine  soap,  being  brushed  by  hand. 
They  should  then  be  put  into  the  extractor  for  about 
ten  minutes.  After  this  they  should  be  removed, 


142      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

rinsed  in  fresh,  clear  benzine,  and  well  shaken. 
Next  place  them  upon  a  table  and  dry  by  rubbing 
in  potato  meal  until  the  hairs  are  no  longer  damp 
and  clammy.  After  allowing  some  time  for  the 
fumes  of  benzine  to  evaporate,  the  furs  should  be 
well  beaten  and  the  hairs  combed  out.  Should  the 
animal's  head  be  still  attached  to  the  rug  it  cannot 
of  course  be  washed  in  the  machine,  but  must  be 
cleaned  by  hand  with  a  brush.  Thorough  rinsing  is 
imperative.  Aitej  the  skins  have  been  well  evapo- 
rated, they  should  be  beaten  and  combed.  Skins 
that  have,  cotton  interlining  should  be  ripped  apart 
before  cleaning  as  the  cotton  soaks  up  much  benzine 
and  thereby  wastes  expensive  material,  and  because 
it  likewise  harbors  dust  and  often  vermin.  A  thor- 
ough beating  and  a  good  steaming  will  clean  the 
cotton,  which  must  of  course  be  sewed  into  the  skin 
after  it  has  been  cleaned. 

Furs  and  skins  that  are  very  dirty  must  be  wet 
cleaned,  and  should  also  be  beaten,  repaired,  and 
have  the  lining  ripped,  the  latter  to  be  dry-cleaned, 
and  then  sewed  on  again.  For  wet-cleaning  five 
baths  will  be  required.  The  first  and  second  baths 
consist  of  a  30  to  40  per  cent,  solution  of  soda 
(warm),  the  third  of  lukewarm  water,  the  fourth  of 
cold  water,  and  the  fifth  is  a  rinsing  bath.  The  soap 
used  should  be  of  the  best  quality,  the  suds  being 
employed  warm.  The  skins  are  taken  up  separately, 
immersed  in  the  first  bath,  then  spread  upon  the 
table  and  washed  by  hand  with  the  soapsuds.  Dur- 
ing the  first  washing  the  soap  will  be  apt  to  break  on 


FURS,  SKIN   RUGS   AND    MATS.  143 

the  fur  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  alum.  The 
soap  should  be  brushed  off,  the  skin  taken  through 
bath  I,  wrung  out  and  washed  again  until  it  appears 
clean  and  the  soap  no  longer  cakes.  After  this  it  is 
taken  through  the  successive  baths.  After  all  the 
skins  have  been  cleaned,  they  are  shaken,  then 
placed  for  five  minutes  in  a  potassium  permanganate 
solution,  taken  out,  and  once  more  shaken,  and  either 
taken  through  weak  sulphuric  acid,  or  exposed  for 
about  six  hours  in  the  sulphur  chamber.  After  the 
sulphur  treatment  the  skins  must  be  rinsed  in  luke- 
warm clean  water  and  alumed  in  a  weak  sulphuric 
acid  bath,  then  once  more  rinsed  in  running  water, 
and  finally  dried. 

After  undergoing  all  these  processes,  the  skins 
have  lost  much  of  their  substance,  consequently  the 
following  treatment  will  be  necessary  to  restore 
them.  According  to  the  number  of  pieces  to  be 
treated,  a  mixture  of  I  part  alum  and  I  part  common 
salt  and  bran  will  be  required.  This  mixture  is  to 
be  applied  to  the  skin  side  of  the  furs,  thoroughly 
rubbed  in,  and  after  being  folded  over  they  must  be 
left  in  a  cool  place  for  forty-eight  hours.  The  best 
way  is  to  wrap  the  furs  in  a  linen  cloth  and  place 
them  in  a  wooden  vessel.  After  forty-eight  hours 
they  should  be  taken  out  and  spread  out  with  the  fur 
side  exposed  to  the  sun  and  thus  allowed  to  dry. 
After  they  are  dry  they  should  be  worked  over  an 
iron  (the  so-called  half-moon).  This  treatment  will 
render  them  soft.  Next  they  must  be  beaten  and 
perhaps  combed — curly  skins  however,  must  not  be 
combed. 


144      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Where  the  skin  has  a  head  attached  wet-cleaning 
is  out  of  the  question,  for  the  water  would  dissolve 
the  glue.  White  skins  are  best  cleaned  with  benzine 
and  talcum.  Furs  which  are  to  be  freed  from  moths 
and  moth  eggs  without  being  cleaned  should  be  ex- 
posed in  the  sulphur  chamber. 

Many  furs  cannot  stand  wet-cleaning,  being  in- 
clined to  split  and  crack  and  drop  their  hair.  Such 
skins  come  from  over-fat  animals  or  from  such  as 
have  died  of  some  disease ;  or  they  have  been  glued 
together ;  in  any  case  they  are  difficult  to  distinguish 
from  perfect  ones  until  handled.  It  is  better  to 
clean  such  furs  and  skins  cold  or  to  use  benzine  soap 
or  benzine,  and  to  clean  them  rapidly.  Drying  on 
the  half-moon  is  also  not  advisable  in  this  case. 
Neither  should  such  skins  be  wrung  out,  but  rather 
dried  flat.  Another  method  for  treating  skins  is  as 
follows:  To  keep  the  leather  from  becoming  hard  or 
from  breaking,  rub  it  well  with  clarified  fish  oil. 
Damp  common  salt  well  rubbed  in  also  keeps  the 
leather  in  good  condition.  Furs  thus  treated  must 
be  cleaned  with  cold  soap  baths  and  well  rinsed. 
Polar  bear  and  Angora  skins  which  have  been  bleached 
with  hydrogen  or  sodium  peroxide  should  be  treated 
in  this  manner.  The  bleach  should  not  be  exces- 
sively warm,  as  too  much  heat  will  affect  the  leather. 

Skins  cleaned  with  benzine  must  not  be  shaken 
too  hard,  it  being  well  to  allow  them  to  retain  a  little 
benzine.  They  should  then  be  laid,  skin-side  down, 
on  a  table  and  thoroughly  rubbed  down  with  talcum, 
which  will  restore  to  the  fur  its  former  freshness. 


FURS,  SKIN   RUGS    AND    MATS.  145 

To  soften  hard  and  very  dirty  skins  proceed  as 
follows:  First  of  all  never  wet-clean  them,  but  after 
ripping  off  all  linings,  sponge  with  benzine,  taking 
care  not  to  rub  against  the  fur.  After  the  worst  dirt 
has  been  removed  the  skin  should  be  placed  in  a 
long  trough,  and  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wheat  flour 
poured  over  it  and  worked  well  into  the  fur.  After  an 
hour  or  so  the  skin  is  taken  out,  care  being  had  not  to 
shake  out  too  much  of  the  flour ;  it  is  next  hung  up  in 
the  open  air  and  beaten  on  both  sides  with  a  carpet 
beater.  The  wrong  side  is  then  oiled  and  the  skin 
allowed  to  remain  in  this  state  for  24  hours.  Should 
it  still  be  hard,  draw  it  over  a  perching  knife ;  sift 
the  remaining  flour  and  keep  it  for  another  time  if  it 
is  not  too  badly  soiled. 

Ladies'  and  gentlemen's  fur  collars  should  be 
washed  in  lukewarm  suds,  to  which  has  been  added 
a  little  ammonia,  rinsed  first  in  lukewarm  water,  next 
in  cold  water,  and  then  finished  in  the  usual  way. 
White  furs  and  boas  are  best  cleaned  in  the  machine 
with  benzine  and  talcum. 

Sheepskins,  such  as  rugs,  perambulator  aprons, 
etc.,  are  preferably  washed  with  benzine  soap,  and  in 
at  least  four  cases  out  of  five  wet-washing  can  be 
entirely  avoided.  The  goods  are  brushed  over  with 
a  strong  solution  of  benzine  soap,  and  then  run 
through  the  washing  machine  for  from  30  to  45 
minutes.  The  subsequent  rinsing  with  benzine 
should  be  very  thorough,  or  the  wool  will  retain  a 
greasy  feel. 

If  the  wool  is  very  dirty  and  has  been  much  felted 
10 


146      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

by  long  wear,  the  skin  must  be  wet-washed.  The 
first  thing  is  to  take  out  the  stuffing.  The  skins  are 
then  soaked  in  soft  water  for  a  time,  and  then  spread 
out,  and  the  coarser  dirt  is  removed  with  a  weak 
liquor  of  soda  and  ammonia.  Then  wring  and  work 
by  hand  with  a  good  neutral  soap.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  use  brushes,  as  the  fingers  can  get  down  to 
the  leather  more  easily  and  quickly  than  a  brush. 
More  and  more  soap  is  poured  over  the  goods  till  it 
remains  quite  white.  As  long  as  there  is  dirt  and 
grease  in  the  wool,  the  lather  will  feel  sticky,  and 
have  a  gray  color. 

Before  each  addition  of  fresh  soap  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  rinse  with  weak  soda,  whereby  considerable 
saving  in  soap  is  effected.  The  final  rinsing,  after 
completion  of  the  washing,  is  done  first  with  soda 
and  then  with  clean  water. 

The  whole  series  of  operations  is  carried  out  on  a 
bench  on  which  the  skins  can  be  spread  out  flat. 

After  rinsing  we  come,  with  white  skins,  to  the 
bleaching.  Dyed  skins  must  be  soured  to  liven  the 
color,  using  sulphuric  acid  for  those  which  have  been 
acid  dyed,  and  acetic  for  those  dyed  with  basic  dyes. 

Bleaching  may  be  effected  by  means  of  potassium 
permanganate,  sodium  peroxide,  or  sulphurous  acid, 
the  latter  being  on  the  whole  the  best.  In  bleaching 
with  a  sulphur  chest  no  rinsing  is  necessary,  as  the 
more  soap  there  is  in  the  wool,  the  better  the  fumes 
of  the  burning  sulphur  act,  but  no  dirty  soap  must 
be  left  behind  in  the  wool. 

For  bleaching  with    potassium    permanganate   a 


FURS,  SKIN    RUGS   AND   MATS.  147 

dark  reddish-violet  solution  is  made  with  the  per- 
manganate and  water,  and  the  skin  stirred  in  for  2O 
to  30  minutes,  when  it  assumes  a  dirty  brown  color. 
It  is  then  removed,  drained  and  immersed  in  a  strong 
solution  of  sulphurous  acid.  If  this  bath  is  too  weak, 
the  skins  will  turn  yellow  all  over  or  in  places  in  the 
course  of  the  next  few  weeks.  The  skins  are  finally 
rinsed,  first  with  very  dilute  sulphuric  acid,  and  then 
with  water  to  remove  all  trace  of  acid,  and  then  dried. 

With  the  use  of  sodium  peroxide,  all  contact  with 
metals  except  lead  must  be  avoided.  For  every  100 
Ibs.  of  goods  take  140  gallons  of  cold  water  soured 
with  10  Ibs.  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  slowly  stir  7  *^  Ibs. 
of  the  peroxide  into  the  acid  liquid.  A  test  is  then 
made  with  litmus  paper,  and  if  the  bath  is  not  neu- 
tral it  must  be  made  so  by  adding  more  peroxide  or 
more  acid  as  the  case  may  be.  Four  pounds  of 
water  glass  of  45°  Be.  are  then  diluted  with  a  large 
quantity  of  water  and  added  to  the  bath.  Now  enter 
the  goods  and  raise  the  temperature  to  not  exceed- 
ing 90°  F.  during  one  hour.  Keep  at  the  same  tem- 
perature for  another  hour  or  two,  lift,  sour  in  very 
weak  sulphuric  acid — about  I  Ib.  of  acid  in  140  gal- 
lons of  water — rinse  repeatedly  in  water,  give  a  light 
soap  bath,  centrifuge,  and  dry. 

As  centrifuging  does  not  dry  the  leather  which 
would  become  hard  in  the  drying  room  if  placed  in 
it  very  wet,  the  skin  must  be  gone  over  with  a 
special  blunt  knife  to  squeeze  the  water  out  as  much 
as  possible.  Work  with  the  knife  towards  the  edge 
from  the  middle,  and  let  the  edges  hang  down  for 


148      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

the  water  to  drip  from  them.  Repeat  this  once  or 
twice,  drying  a  little  in  the  drying  room  in  the  in- 
tervals. 

Soap  washing  of  skins  should  not  be  done  at  a 
temperature  above  70°  F.  Drying  is  effected  at  70° 
to  75"  F.  in  a  drying  room,  or  in  the  open  air.  The 
skins  are  stretched  on  a  frame  under  tension.  If  in 
spite  of  all  care,  the  leather  stiffens  and  becomes 
hard,  rub  a  little  oil  well  into  it  as  soon  as  it  is  quite 
dry.  Another  and  very  excellent  way  of  removing 
most  of  the  moisture  left  after  centrifuging  is  to 
stretch  the  fur,  hair  down,  flat  on  a  table,  and  clamp 
it  down.  It  is  then  covered  to  a  depth  of  about  half 
an  inch  with  a  mixture  of  equal  weights  of  alum, 
common  salt  and  meal.  This  absorbs  nearly  all  the 
water,  and  after  lying  for  about  six  hours  can  be 
scraped  off.  The  skin  of  small  articles  can  be  kept 
soft  by  working  them  over  a  blunt  knife-edge  a  few 
times  during  the  drying.  Very  much  tendered  skins 
can  sometimes  be  successfully  washed  and  dyed  if 
sewn  for  the  time  being  on  a  piece  of  strong  calico. 
The  above-mentioned  after-treatment  with  common 
salt  and  alum  is  quite  unnecessary  if  stearine  is  well 
rubbed  into  the  leather  before  the  wet  washing,  but 
in  this  case  the  dried  skins  must  be  chemically 
washed  to  remove  the  stearine. 

DYEING.  White  sheepskins  have  to  be  dyed  in 
every  imaginable  color;  furs  proper  are  usually 
dyed  grey,  brown,  blue,  or  deep  black.  If  a  colored 
fur  has  to  be  re-dyed  after  cleaning,  it  is  well  in 
order  to  make  sure  of  getting  the  original  color,  to 


FURS,  SKIN   RUGS   AND    MATS.  149 

cut  away  a  little  of  the  hair  which  seems  to  show 
that  color  best  before  cleaning,  and  dye  to  it  as  a 
pattern. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  bleach  sheepskins  with  sul- 
phur or  chlorine  to  increase  their  affinity  for  the 
dye.  With  the  exception  of  gray,  brown  and  black, 
all  colors  are  dyed  in  a  bath  containing  two-thou- 
sandths of  its  own  weight  of  sulphuric  acid  and  an 
acid  dye.  The  temperature  must  not  exceed  95°  F., 
at  which  the  dyeing  lasts  from  one  to  two  hours. 
Independently  of  the  coal  tar  dyes,  gray  can  be  dyed 
by  mordanting  for  from  2  to  4  hours  in  a  bath  con- 
taining from  30  to  70  grains  of  sulphate  of  copper 
per  quart,  and  then  dyeing  in  a  fresh  bath  with  log- 
wood, shading  if  necessary  with  fustic  or  methyline 
blue.  Fine  grays  can  be  obtained  in  every  variety 
of  shade  in  a  tannin  and  iron  bath.  For  browns  and 
blacks  it  is  best  to  use  the  various  dyes  especially 
intended  for  furs,  such  as  the  Ursols.  The  latter  are 
not  dyestuffs  in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the  word,  but 
so-called  oxidation  colors,  i.  £.,  colors  which  are  de- 
veloped upon  the  animal  fibre  by  a  treatment  with 
oxidizing  agents,  such  as  iron  chloride,  permangan- 
ates, bichromates,  hydrogen  peroxide,  etc.  The 
Ursols  are  used  as  follows :  Mordant  in  a  bath  con- 
taining from  30  to  62  grains  of  bichromate,  15  to  30 
grains  of  tartar,  and  5  to  6  grains  of  sulphate  of 
copper  per  quart.  Then  rinse  slightly  and  dye  with 
the  proper  brand  of  Ursol,  according  as  a  blue  or 
deep  black  is  wanted.  Other  brands  are  used  for 
brown,  and  also  pyrogallic  acid  which  gives  light 


I5O   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

shades  with  a  yellowish  tinge.  A  still  better  mor- 
dant for  black  than  that  given  above  is  made  with  23 
grains  of  sulphate  of  iron,  7^  grains  of  sulphate  of 
copper  and  15  grains  of  tartar  per  quart  of  water. 
Many  furs  contain  bristles  which  must  be  killed. 
The  killing  liquid  is  made  by  dissolving  2  ozs.  of  sal 
ammoniac  and  ^  oz.  of  sulphate  of  alumina  in  2 
quarts  of  hot  water.  The  solution  is  then  stirred  into 
a  mixture  of  4  quarts  of  water  and  7  ozs.  of  quick 
lime.  It  is  kept  covered  up  and  applied  to  the  hair 
side  with  a  brush.  It  must  on  no  account  touch  the 
leather.  After  drying,  the  dust  is  beaten  out  of  the 
fur,  and  the  dyeing  is  proceeded  with. 

Fur  cuffs  and  other  accessories  to  garments  should 
be  treated  with  the  mordant,  dye,  etc.,  with  a  brush 
and  not  in  the  bath.  Like  all  fur  dyes,  the  Ursols 
are  used  with  hydrogen  peroxide,  neutralizing  the 
acid  mixed  with  the  peroxide  with  a  little  soda  or 
ammonia.  With  blacks  care  must  be  taken,  how- 
ever, not  to  make  the  bath  too  alkaline,  or  the  bleach 
will  have  a  brown  shade.  For  browns,  bleaching 
powder  can  be  used  instead  of  the  peroxide. 

The  Ursols  have  their  drawbacks  as  well  as  their 
advantages.  They  are  poisonous,  and  often  seriously 
affect  persons  who  work  with  them  continuously  for 
long  periods.  It  is  obvious  that  goods  dyed  with 
Ursols  must  be  thoroughly  rinsed  to  prevent  injury 
to  the  wearer  of  the  fur.  Badly  rinsed  dyeings  also 
rub  off  a  great  deal.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  follow  up 
the  rinsing  with  a  bath  of  sulphate  of  copper — 15 
grains  per  quart — for  an  hour  or  two. 


FURS,  SKIN    RUGS   AND   MATS.  151 

Combing  after  drying  improves  the  appearance  of 
many  furs.  Thibets  and  curly  skins  must  of  course 
not  be  combed.  In  some  cases  the  dried  skins  are 
revolved  with  warm  sand  or  sawdust  in  drums  in 
order  to  clean  away  any  extraneous  dye,  etc.,  which 
may  be  clinging  superficially  to  the  skins  or  the 
hairs. 

As  there  is  great  variation  in  the  size  and  weight 
of  the  skins,  as  well  as  in  the  quantity  of  hair  at- 
tached to  them,  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  give 
definite  quantities  of  dyestuffs,  and  the  following  re- 
ceipts are  rather  given  for  general  guidance  than  for 
exact  application.  The  best  general  rule  to  follow 
is  to  start  with  small  quantities  and  add  more  if  re- 
quired, as  shown  by  the  dyeing  operation. 

I.  Black  on  skins,  a.  Dye  in  a  lukewarm  bath 
containing  2  Ibs.  logwood  extract  for  every  8  gallons, 
and  the  necessary  quantity  of  turmeric  or  fustic. 
After  about  two  hours,  lift,  add  to  the  bath  6  or  7 
ozs.  of  sulphate  of  copper  per  8  gallons ;  re-enter, 
work  another  hour,  lift,  and  rinse.  Then  partly  dry 
the  fur  in  dry,  warm  sawdust,  nail  it  to  a  board,  hair 
downwards,  give  the  skin  a  slight  rubbing  with 
glycerine,  and  leave  to  dry.  Supple  the  dried  skin 
by  stretching  and  beating.  Finally  comb  the  hairs 
with  a  clean,  oily  comb.  To  prevent  any  injury  to 
the  skin,  the  temperature  should  never  exceed  85° 
or  95°  F.  throughout  the  operation. 

b.  Make  a  dye  bath  with  30  parts  of  logwood  ex- 
tract, 20  parts  of  sumach  extract,  4  parts  of  verdigris, 
and  10  parts  of  iron  liquor.  Heat  to  100°  F.,  enter 


152      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

the  skins  and  keep  them  in  the  bath  until  they  have 
acquired  a  good  shade. 

c.  Ursol  D  gives  'a  deep  black.     Prepare  a  mor- 
danting bath  of   10  quarts  of  water  with   ^  to  I  ^ 
ozs.  potassium  bichromate  and   %   to   ^  oz.  tartar. 
Heat  the  bath  to  about  77°  F.,  and  lay  the  fur  down 
in  it  for  12  hours;   then  rinse  lightly  and  hydro-ex- 
tract.    Then  prepare  a  dye  bath  of  10  quarts  water 
at  77°  to  90°  F.  with  ^  to  I  oz.  Ursol  D,  enter  the 
furs,  and  after  dyeing  for  2  hours,  add  8  ozs.  to  I  Ib. 
hydrogen  peroxide  and  lay  down  upon  it  the  goods 
for   about    10    hours    longer,    turning   occasionally. 
Finally  rinse  in  water. 

d.  A  deep  blue  black  especially  suitable  for  angora 
skins  is  obtained  with  Ursol  D  D.     It  is  dyed  with- 
out any  mordant  in  a  bath  containing  for  10  quarts, 
y±   oz.  Ursol  D  D  and   17  ozs.  hydrogen   peroxide. 
Proceed  in  the  same  manner  as  stated  for  Ursol  D, 
which  may  also  be  employed  in  a  stronger  bath. 

For  tipping  furs  -with  black,  Ursol  D  is  used.  Dis- 
solve y±  oz.  of  Ursol  D  in  I  y2  quarts  of  water,  and 
add  to  the  solution  just  before  using  it,  17  ozs.  of 
hydrogen  peroxide. 

Apply  the  solution  by  means  of  a  brush,  then  put 
the  skins,  hair  upon  hair,  let  them  lie  in  that  con- 
dition for  several  hours  in  a  cool  place,  and  then  dry 
them. 

2.  Brown  on  skins,  a.  Very  dark  brown.  Make 
a  bath  by  dissolving  2  Ibs.  of  Paraphenyline  Diamine 
in  10  Ibs.  of  methylated  spirit.  When  solution  is 
complete  add  I  gallon  of  water.  Just  before  use  add 


FURS,  SKIN   RUGS   AND   MATS.  153 

to  the  bath  a  solution  of  I  Ib.  bichromate  of  potash 
in  2  gallons  of  water.  Apply  the  complete  solu- 
tions with  a  soft  brush.  In  from  15  to  20  minutes 
the  color  is  fixed  and  the  fur  is  then  rinsed  with  a 
damp  sponge,  and  dried.  Hydrogen  peroxide  may 
be  used  instead  of  the  bichromate. 

b.  Medium  to  dark  brown.     Prepare  a  bath  of  10 
quarts  water,  ^   oz.  Ursol  D,  I   oz.  Ursol  P,  I   oz. 
pyrogallic  acid,  17  ozs.  hyrogen  peroxide,  and   i^ 
ozs.  ammonia. 

Mordant  the  skins  with  ^  to  I  ^  ozs.  potassium 
bichromate  and  ^  to  I  oz.  of  cream  of  tartar  in  10 
quarts  of  water.  Then  bring  them  into  the  dye  bath. 
Sample  after  3  hours  for  a  medium  shade,  and  repeat 
the  sampling  from  time  to  time  according  to  the 
shade  desired.  A  dark  brown  will  be  obtained  in 
about  1 8  hours. 

c.  Red  brown  (light  shade}.     Prepare  a  bath  of  10 
quarts  water  with   ^  oz.  Ursol  P,  5   ozs.  hydrogen 
peroxide,  and  £  oz.  ammonia.     Place  the  furs,  pre- 
viously  mordanted   as  under  b,   in   the  bath   for  6 
hours,  then  lift  and  dry. 

3.  Chestnut  on  skins.     Prepare  a  bath  by  dissolv- 
ing   2    Ibs.    Amindol    in    10  Ibs.   methylated   spirit. 
When  solution  is  complete,  add  a  solution  of  about 
13    ozs.  of  carbonate  of  potash  in    I    gallon  water. 
Before  use  add  to  the  bath  solution  of  bichromate  in 
water  as  given  under  very  dark  brown.     This  applies 
also  to  the  following  : 

4.  Russet  on  skins.     As  given  for  chestnut,  but  use 
only  half  the  quantity  of  potash  and  substitute  for  the 
Amindol  the  same  amount  of  Paramidophenol. 


154      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

5.  Golden  on  skins.     A  pale  golden-yellow  is  ob- 
tained in  a  bath  made  with    I   Ib.  of  carbonate  of 
potash,  2   Ibs.  pyrogallic  acid,  ^  gallon  water,  and 
\y2  gallons  methylated  spirit. 

6.  Silver  grey  on  skins.     Prepare  the   dye   bath 
with  2  parts  of  Nigrosine  and   20  parts  of  Glauber's 
salt. 

7.  Scarlet  on  Skins.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  2 
parts  Azo  cochineal,  10  parts  Glauber's  salt  and  2 
parts  sulphuric  acid. 

8.  Orange  on  skins.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  I 
part  Crocein  orange,  JO  parts  Glauber's  salt  and  2 
parts  sulphuric  acid.     This  gives  a  full  bright  shade, 

9.  Bright  green  on  skins.     Make  the  dye  bath  with 
i  part  Green  crystals  Y,  %   part  Auramine,  and  10 
parts  Glauber's  salt. 

10.  Maroon  on  skins.     Use  for  the  dye  bath  I  part 
Magenta,  10  parts  Glauber's  salt,  and  a  little  Nile 
blue. 

The  skins,  etc.,  when  cleaned  and  dyed  have  to  be 
dried  and  for  this  purpose  should  be  stretched  so  as 
to  prevent  shrinkage  which  causes  them  to  become 
hard.  While  drying  they  should  occasionally  be 
shaken  to  open  out  the  fibre  and  prevent  matting. 
When  dry  the  fibre  side  should  be  well  brushed  to 
separate  the  fibres  as  much  as  possible.  It  is  also 
advisable  for  the  purpose  of  softening  the  skins  to 
rub  the  flesh  side  with  a  little  castor- oil  or  a  mixture 
of  castor-oil  and  yolk  of  egg. 


VI. 

CLEANING   AND    DYEING   FEATHERS. 

Cleaning.  Feathers  which  have  been  previously 
dyed  and  simply  require  cleaning,  are  best  washed 
in  a  weak  lukewarm  soap  bath,  made  by  dissolving  a 
piece  of  good  Castile  soap  in  warm  water,  well  work- 
ing and  drawing  through  the  fingers  or  hands;  and 
finally  rinsing  them  in  soft  warm  water.  The  soap 
liquor  should  not  be  too  warm,  a  hand-heat  being 
quite  sufficient.  Too  hot  a  liquor  might  result  in 
taking  some  of  the  color  off  the  feathers  which  would 
necessitate  redyeing.  Pale  colored  feathers  should 
be  treated  in  a  very  weak  and  cold  soap  bath.  A 
little  ammonia  added  to  the  bath  is  beneficial. 

Blacks,  browns,  and  most  ordinary  dark  colors, 
can  often  be  brightened  by  an  immersion  for  ten  to 
twenty  minutes  in  a  warm  decoction  of  logwood,  fol- 
lowed by  rinsing;  this  will  usually  be  sufficient  pre- 
paration for  the  dressing  and  drying  processes.  Dry 
cleaning  processes  are  of  little  use  in  treating  feathers, 
but  the  feathers  may  be  chemically  purified.  For 
this  purpose  they  should  be  placed  in  a  somewhat 
long  and  narrow  china  basin  containing  benzine  and 
raw  potato  starch,  which  is  insoluble  in  the  liquid, 
and  the  feathers  moved  about  rapidly  in  this  bath. 
This  mixture  serves  to  dissolve  the  fatty  and  other 
(155) 


156      DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

obnoxious  materials  on  the  feathers.  These  im- 
purities pass  into  the  solvent,  and  the  feathers  are 
afterwards  taken  out  and  dried,  the  starch  being  re- 
moved by  shaking  them  out.  After  having  been 
cleaned  as  systematically  as  possible,  the  feathers 
should  be  brushed,  and  finally  dried  in  the  open  air, 
if  possible.  They  must  be  exposed  until  all  the  ben- 
zine smell  has  disappeared. 

The  dressing  of  feathers  consists  in  passing  them 
several  times  in  a  liquor  of  raw  (unboiled)  potato 
starch,  then  pressing  them  carefully  and  evenly  be- 
tween two  sheets  of  clean  white  blotting,  or  filtering, 
paper,  or  linen  cloth.  The  passing  of  the  feathers 
through  the  liquor  may  be  repeated  as  many  as  eight 
or  more  times.  The  hairs  of  the  feathers  are  then 
loosened  by  means  of  a  soft  brush  or  drawn  back- 
wards between  the  fingers  and  thumb  for  the  same 
purpose,  and  rubbed  carefully  in  dry  potato  starch 
flour.  Tapioca  or  sago  starch  can  also  be  used  with 
equal  success.  The  starch  that  may  be  retained  in 
the  hairs  can  be  easily  extracted  by  means  of  a  dry 
soft  brush.  The  feathers  are  then  dried  in  the  open 
air  or  by  means  of  artificial  dry  heat,  after  which  they 
are  ready  to  be  curled. 

Natural  white  feathers  are  re-whitened  by  half  an 
hour's  careful  treatment  in  a  tepid  soap  bath,  after 
which  they  must  be  thoroughly  washed  in  a  fresh  warm 
soap  bath  with  a  strong  lather.  They  subsequently 
have  to  be  washed  three  times  in  a  warm  water 
bath,  and  then  placed  for  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
in  a  weak,  clear,  and  cold  oxalate  of  potash  or  am- 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING    FEATHERS.  1$7 

monia  bath,  and  afterwards  passed  through  a  weak 
solution  of  Prussian  or  Paris  blue,  in  order  to  neutra- 
lize the  yellow  tone  produced  through  the  action  of 
the  cleaning  agents. 

The  feathers  are  next  pressed  between  blotting 
paper,  and  dried  in  the  open  air.  Raw  white  feathers 
must  be  first  thoroughly  freed  from  fatty  matters  by 
means  of  strong  soap  and  alkaline  solutions,  and 
this  treatment  is  especially  required  when  the  feathers 
have  to  be  dyed,  as  otherwise  no  even  color  can  be 
obtained.  The  quills  should  be  separately  treated 
previous  to  the  cleaning  process.  This  treatment 
consists  simply  in  rubbing  them  with  a  solution  of 
bicarbonate  of  ammonia  or  oxalate  of  ammonia. 
Thorough  working  in  benzine  is  also  good  for  re- 
moving grease  from  new  feathers. 

Sometimes  good  white  feathers  or  feathers  which 
are  to  be  dyed  in  pale  tints  require  bleaching. 
This  can  be  done  by  burning  sulphur  or  by  prepar- 
ing a  bath  of  hydrogen  peroxide,  adding  a  little  am- 
monia to  make  it  alkaline,  steeping  the  feathers  in 
this  overnight,  and  the  next  day  heating  up  to  about 
150°  F.,  and  allowing  to  steep  for  some  hours  in  the 
warm  bath,  after  which  they  require  only  rinsing. 
If  not  sufficiently  bleached,  repeat  the  treatment. 
Feathers  which  are  to  be  dyed  black,  or  dark  greens 
or  browns,  need  only  to  be  scoured  simply  in  a  tepid 
soda  bath  to  remove  grease ;  then  before  dying  with 
the  decoctions  of  the  dye  woods,  they  are  mordanted 
with  a  solution  of  pernitrate  of  iron. 

Dyeing.     Before  proceeding  to  deal  with  the  dye- 


158      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ing  process  for  feathers,  it  is  necessary  to  say  a  few 
words  in  regard  to  the  utensils  which  can  be  used 
with  safety  and  with  the  greatest  practical  advantage 
for  these  operations.  A  knowledge  of  the  chemical 
composition  of  the  various  articles  used  by  the  dyer 
is  most  desirable  not  only  by  those  who  supervise 
the  work  as  a  whole,  but  also  by  the  individual  ope- 
rator. He  should  be  well  acquainted  with  the  chemi- 
cal and  mechanical  action  of  the  various  chemi- 
cals and  materials  used  on  the  feathers  to  be  dyed. 
The  color  shades  got  in  many  instances  are  of  a 
totally  different  tint  from  that  which  was  intended  to 
be  produced,  and  the  actual  cause  is  either  to  be 
found  in  the  action  of  chemicals  used  for  mordanting 
and  dyeing  and  possibly  for  cleaning  the  feathers,  or 
in  the  quality  of  the  water  used,  or  in  the  injudicious 
choice  of  mordanting  and  dyeing  materials,  or  using 
one  or  other  of  these  in  too  large  quantities,  to  say 
nothing  of  adding  wrong  materials.  As  feathers  be- 
long to  the  category  of  animal  products,  like  wool 
and  silk,  they  can  only  be  dyed  in  full  shades  by  the 
use  of  a  somewhat  high  temperature,  but  boiling  heat 
need  only  be  used  for  dark  colors,  and  it  is  best  to 
keep  the  heat  as  low  as  possible. 

When  feathers  are  boiled  while  in  the  dye-bath, 
the  ebullition  of  heat  seems,  to  have  a  tendency  to 
open  the  pores  of  the  fibres,  and  thus  allow  a  free 
access  to  the  interior  of  the  feather  by  the  mordants 
or  dyes.  If  desirable,  the  mordants  can  be  used  be- 
fore or  after  the  actual  dyeing  operations.  It  is,  in 
many  cases,  very  advantageous  to  use  the  mordant 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATilERb.  159 

before  dyeing  as  well  as  concurrently  with  the  dye. 
The  application  of  too  large  a  quantity  of  mordant 
must,  on  the  other  hand,  be  avoided,  as  in  using  iron 
and  bichromate  mordants  such  excesses  are  likely  to 
produce  rusty  greenish  or  gray  hues.  Another  very 
important  point  demanding  attention  is  the  fact  that 
the  finer  the  feather  the  more  dye  is  required  for  the 
production  of  the  desired  shades.  This  is  one  of  the 
greatest  difficulties  to  be  encountered  by  the  dyer, 
for  it  is  no  easy  task  to  decide  at  once  how  large  a 
quantity  is  necessary  to  produce  the  desired  shade. 

For  light  colors  a  strong  and  finely  glazed  china 
basin  of  a  white  color  is  best  adapted  for  dyeing. 
Metal  utensils  can  be-  used,  but  the  former  are  best 
for  delicate  colors,  and  a  sufficient  amount  of  heat 
can  be  produced  by  means  of  a  water  bath.  The  in- 
side of  the  vessel  should,  however,  be  as  light  as 
possible,  and  the  application  and  additions  of  dyes 
effected  with  the  utmost  caution. 

The  color  tones  can  be  accurately  discerned  and 
regulated  in  such  a  white  basin.  If  perfectly  enam- 
elled metal  basins  are  used,  the  action  of  the  chemi- 
cals cannot  affect  the  enamel,  and  the  penetration  to 
the  metal  itself  is  almost  an  impossibility. 

The  temperature  can  be  regulated  by  using  a  water 
bath,  and  can  be  maintained  at  167°  to  176°  F., 
which  is  quite  sufficient  for  pale  tints.  Boiling  heat 
is,  on  the  other  hand,  usually  required  in  producing 
dark  colors  for  shades  on  feathers,  and  copper  vessels 
or  kettles  with  a  double  bottom  are  best  adapted  for 
the  purpose.  These  utensils  are  sometimes  heated 


l6o      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

through  being  placed  on  hot  plates,  and  a  continuous 
heat  is  thereby  maintained  during  the  progress  of  the 
operations. 

Well-enameled  vessels  of  an  oblong  shape  are  best 
to  use,  as  these  are  especially  adapted  for  placing  the 
feathers  in  full  length  without  any  bending. 

For  all  col'ors  except  black  and  a  few  light  colors, 
the  acid  coal-tar  colors  should  if  possible  be  used. 
Feathers  dyed  with  these  colors,  after  being  once  or 
twice  rinsed,  are  finally  drawn  through  a  bath  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid  and  then  dried. 

With  ostrich  feathers  or  large  fancy  feathers,  the 
addition  of  coloring  matter,  is  best  effected  by  plac- 
ing the  articles  in  a  sieve,  or  a  willow-ware  basket, 
since  if  they  remained  in  the  kettle  they  would  break 
and  tear  in  consequence  of  the  necessary  rapid  hand- 
ling, and  besides  would  spot.  The  dissolved  color- 
ing matter  is  added  to  the  dye-bath,  stirred,  and  the 
sieve  or  basket  containing  the  feathers  is  placed  in  it. 

For  smaller  fancy  articles,  such  as  chicken  feathers 
and  small  wings,  the  addition  of  the  coloring  matter 
is  effected  as  follows :  Bring  the  dissolved  coloring- 
matter  into  a  copper  pan  which  holds  I  to  3  quarts 
and  is  provided  with  a  long  handle.  Fill  the  pan 
with  dye-bath  or  water  and  quickly  plunge  it,  whilst 
constantly  stirring  the  feathers,  into  the  kettle,  empty- 
ing it  on  the  bottom.  A  better,  but  more  trouble- 
some, method  is  as  follows :  Pour  one-third  or  one- 
half  of  the  dye-bath  through  a  sieve  into  a  kettle,  so 
that  the  feathers  remain  behind ;  then  add  the  color- 
ing-matter, stir  thoroughly,  and  return  the  whole, 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  l6l 

with  constant  stirring  of  the  feathers,  to  the  kettle. 
In  this  manner  a  very  uniform  and  rapid  distribution 
of  the  coloring-matter  is  effected. 

The  dyeing  of  fancy  feathers  differs  in  several  re- 
spects from  that  of  ostrich  feathers. 

The  portions  of  birds,  such  as  the  goose,  duck, 
kingfisher,  penguin,  pelican,  etc.,  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  ornamental  feathers,  require  for  dark  colors 
a  greater  affinity  for  the  coloring  matters  than  they 
naturally  possess.  This  is  produced  by  the  addition 
of  sulphate  of  sodium  (Glauber's  salt)  to  the  acidu- 
lated dye-bath,  bisulphite  of  sodium  being  thereby 
formed,  in  consequence  of  which  the  fibre  is  more 
disintegrated  and  absorbs  the  coloring  matter  more 
uniformly  and  to  a  greater  degree. 

Moreover,  the  feathers  of  the  above-mentioned 
birds  require  greater  heat,  and  may  gently  boil  for 
^  or  ^  hour.  But  this  cannot  be  done  with  articles 
containing  portions  of  flesh,  sinews,  or  skin,  since 
they  would  dissolve  and  the  articles  fall  to  pieces. 
For  skins,  birds,  heads,  wings,  tails,  etc.,  the  heat 
employed  should  also  not  exceed  167°  F.  In  such 
cases  the  advantage  of  greater  heat  must  be  compen- 
sated by  the  greater  strength  of  the  bath. 

Ostrich  feathers  are  tied  together  by  the  lower 
ends  of  the  quills  in  bundles  of  from  3  to  5  and  30 
to  40  of  such  bundles  strung  together. 

Dyeing  Ostrich  Feathers. 

i.     Cleaning,     a.  Large  feathers.     The    feathers 
are  soaked  in  a  strong  solution  of  Castile   soap  at 
II 


1 62      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

IOO°  F.,  for  one  hour,  or,  still  better,  overnight,  and 
then  washed  upon  a  washboard  for  10  minutes. 
They  are  then  brought  into  a  weak  soda-bath  of  the 
above-mentioned  temperature  and  treated  in  the 
same  manner.  The  entire  manipulation  is  then  re- 
peated with  fresh  baths,  when  the  feathers  are  thor- 
oughly rinsed,  drawn  through  a  bath  acidulated  with 
sulphuric  acid,  and  again  rinsed. 

b.  Feathers  in  bulk.  For  10  Ibs.  of  ostrich  feathers 
prepare  a  bath  of  5  Ibs.  of  crystallized  soda  dissolved 
in  50  quarts  of  water,  and  add  a  small  quantity  of 
ammonia.  Heat  the  bath  to  100°  F.,  introduce  the 
feathers,  and  allow  them  to  remain  for  4  to  10  hours. 
Cover  the  vessel  with  a  lid  fitting  in  it,  so  that  the 
feathers  remain  completely  submerged.  Then  wash 
.  the  feathers  piece  by  piece  upon  a  washboard,  rub- 
bing them  quite  strongly.  Then  treat  them  in  a 
second  bath  of  7  Ibs.  of  crystallized  soda  and  a  little 
ammonia,  though  they  need  not  remain  in  this  bath  as 
long  as  in  the  first.  After  again  washing,  the  feathers 
are  several  times  rinsed  in  cold  water  and  then  in 
warm  water,  drawn  through  a  lukewarm  bath  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid,  and  again  rinsed. 

2.  Decolorizing.  The  feathers  cleansed  in  the 
above-described  manner  are  laid  flat  in  a  bath  of  50 
per  cent,  peroxide  of  hydrogen,  3  per  cent,  ammonia, 
and  47  per  cent,  water  heated  to  100°  F.  The  am- 
monia is  added  after  the  bath  has  acquired  the  above- 
indicated  temperature.  A  glass  or  stoneware  vessel 
should  be  used  for  the  bath.  Work  the  feathers 
thoroughly  in  the  bath,  let  them  rest  a  moment,  and 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  163 

work  again.     Then  allow  them  to  rest  ^  hour,  and 
work  once  more. 

The  bath  should  be  protected  from  the  light,  and, 
while  resting,  the  feathers  must  remain  submerged. 
This  is  effected  by  placing  a  lid  fitting  in  the  vessel 
upon  the  feathers,  and  loading  it  with  a  stone. 

When  the  bath  is  perceptibly  exhausted,  i.  e.,  when 
the  bleaching  process  no  longer  progresses,  the 
feathers  are  taken  out  and  the  treatment  above  de- 
scribed is  repeated  with  a  fresh  bath.  The  originally 
gray  or  black  feathers  will  finally  appear  white. 
They  are  then  taken  out,  rinsed  in  several  waters, 
and  finally  drawn  through  a  bath  quite  strongly 
acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid.  They  are  then  again 
rinsed,  and  have  now  the  ground  required  for  all 
light  colors.  If  they  are  to  be  used  white,  they  are 
slightly  blued. 

3.  Freeing  from  grease.  After  cleansing  the 
feathers  according  to  the  directions  given  under  I  b, 
they  are  brought  into  a  bath  which,  for  10  Ibs.  of 
black  ostrich  feathers,  is  prepared  as  follows :  Pour 
into  a  stoneware  vessel  of  100  quarts  capacity  75 
quarts  of  cold  water,  then  add  the  solution  of  IO  Ibs. 
of  chromate  of  potassium,  and  finally  5  Ibs.  of  pure 
sulphuric  acid  of  66°.  After  stirring  thoroughly, 
lay  the  feathers  flat  in  the  bath,  turn  them  over,  and 
cover  the  vessel.  They  are  then  turned  over  every 
hour  until  the  natural  color  is  uniformly  stripped  off 
and  the  feathers  show  a  light  color. 

Care  must  be  taken  not  to  allow  the  feathers  to  re- 
main in  the  bath  longer  than  necessary  for  the  re- 


1 64      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

moval  of  the  natural  color,  and  also  not  to  keep  the 
bath  too  hot.  In  both  cases  the  feathers  are  attacked 
and  may  very  easily  become  entirely  worthless.  The 
heat  should  not  exceed  89°  F.  The  feathers  are 
now  rinsed  in  two  cold  and  several  warm  baths. 
The  warm  rinsing  baths  being  used  for  the  purpose 
of  more  rapidly  removing  the  potassium,  the  feathers 
are  left  in  them  for  some  time.  When  the  chromate 
of  potassium  has  been  completely  removed,  the 
feathers  are  worked  in  an  oxalic  acid  bath  for  % 
hour  and  rinsed.  They  are  then  worked  in  a  bath  of 
2  Ibs.  of  Castile  soap,  and  rinsed  in  several  warm  baths. 
The  feathers  are  now  sufficiently  prepared  for  the 
uniform  reception  of  all  medium  and  dark  colors. 
Gray  ostrich  feathers  require  only  half  the  quantity 
of  chromate  of  potassium  and  sulphuric  acid. 

4.  White.  In  case  the  white  of  the  feathers 
cleaned,  according  to  directions  given  under  I  a,  is 
disfigured  by  natural  brown  spots  and  points,  they 
are  brought  into  a  bath  of  100°  F.  to  which  from  10 
to  20  per  cent,  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen  has  been 
added.  They  are  taken  out  after  half  an  hour  or  an 
hour  and  brought  into  a  bath  of  3  per  cent,  potas- 
sium bisulphide  heated  to  110°  F.,  where  they  re- 
main for  half  an  hour,  when  they  are  taken  out  and 
brought  into  a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid. 
They  are  then  rinsed  and  drawn  through  a  cold  bath 
to  which  a  small  quantity  of  aniline-violet,  (6  B)  dis- 
solved in  alcohol,  or  Maine-blue  has  been  added. 

It  may  be  remarked  that  the  more  yellowish  the 
white  appears,  the  more  of  a  reddish  hue  the  blue  to 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  165 

be  used  should  have,  otherwise  a  greenish  tinge  is 
readily  produced. 

5.  Dyeing  black,  a.  For  11  Ibs.  of  thoroughly 
washed  ostrich  feathers,  prepare  a  mordanting  bath 
as  follows :  Fill  a  kettle  holding  about  150  quarts 
three-quarters  full  with  water,  and  heat  the  latter  to 
the  boiling-point.  Then  add  n  Ibs.  of  logwood  and 
7T7-g-  Ibs.  of  fustic,  both  dye-woods  tied  in  a  bag  so  as 
to  leave  room  for  expansion.  Now  boil  briskly  for 
one  hour,  then  take  the  bags  containing  the  dye- 
woods  from  the  kettle,  and  add  23  ozs.  of  ground 
tartar,  17^  ozs.  of  green  vitriol,  14  ozs.  of  blue 
vitriol,  and  10^  ozs.  of  chromate  of  potassium.  Stir 
until  all  is  dissolved  and  the  bath  has  boiled  for  a 
short  time.  Then  reduce  the  temperature  of  the  bath 
by  the  addition  of  water  to  145°  F.,  and  place  the 
feathers  flat  in  it.  Now,  while  constantly  working 
and  handling  the  feathers,  raise  the  temperature  of 
the  bath  to  190°  F.,  then  remove  the  fire  entirely 
and  cover  the  kettle,  which  is  done  by  placing  a 
smaller  lid  in  the  kettle  upon  the  feathers  and  a  larger 
one  upon  the  edge  of  the  kettle.  The  latter,  to  pre- 
vent cooling  as  much  as  possible,  is  covered  with 
sacks.  After  once  more  working  the  feathers  in  the 
evening,  they  are  left  in  the  bath  overnight.  The 
next  morning  the  feathers  are  hung  in  rows  over  a 
rod  and  allowed  to  cool  one  hour.  They  are  then 
rinsed  in  several  waters  until  the  rinsing  water  ap- 
pears clear. 

Now  prepare  the  following  dye-bath :  After  free- 
ing the  kettle,  by  washing  with  clean  water,  from  the 


1 66   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

remainder  of  mordant,  fill  it  three-quarters  full  with 
water  and  bring  the  latter  to  the  boiling-point.  Then 
bring  into  the  kettle  1 6^  Ibs.  of  logwood  tied  in  a 
bag  so  as  to  leave  room  for  expansion,  and  boil 
briskly  for  one  hour.  Then  take  out  the  dye-wood, 
cool  the  bath  to  145°  F.,  and  place  the  feathers  flat 
in  it.  Heat  the  bath  to  194°  F.,  whilst  constantly 
moving  and  handling  the  feathers.  Next  remove 
the  fire,  cover  the  kettle,  and  let  it  stand  from  12  to 
24  hours — over  night  will  do.  Then  take  the  feathers 
out,  but  do  not  rinse  them. 

Now  repeat  the  operations  of  mordanting  and 
dyeing  as  above  described  with  baths  of  the  same 
nature ;  the  dye-bath  previously  used  may,  however, 
be  employed  as  a  mordanting  bath,  the  entire  mor- 
dant with  the  exception  of  logwood  being  added. 

The  feathers  are  then  rinsed  and  one  after  another 
washed  on  a  washboard  in  two  weak,  lukewarm  soda- 
baths,  next  in  a  bath  of  5  Ibs.  of  good,  white  soap, 
and  then  again  in  two  weak,  lukewarm  soda-baths. 

The  feathers  are  now  chlorinated,  the  chlorine 
solution  consisting  of  the  clear  solution  of  4  Ibs.  of 
crystallized  soda  and  2  Ibs.  of  chloride  of  lime. 

The  process  of  chlorinating  requires  special  atten- 
tion ;  it  is  best  to  perform  it  in  the  open  air  where 
there  is  plenty  of  light  and  an  abundance  of  water. 
But  as  these  cannot  always  be  had,  an  example  of 
executing  the  process  in  the  dye-room  itself  is  here 
given. 

Place  alongside  the  rinsing-tub  another  tub  so  that 
as  much  light  as  possible  falls  upon  it  from  above. 


CLEANING  AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  l6/ 

Now  fill  this  tub  with  water  of  122°  F.,  so  that  the 
feathers  can  be  freely  moved  in  it.  Then  add  about 
one-quarter  of  the  above-mentioned  chlorinating 
solution,  stir  well,  and  introduce  the  feathers.  In 
consequence  of  the  rapid  manipulation,  the  bath  is 
soon  exhausted,  and  a  sample  of  the  feathers  is  occa- 
sionally placed  in  the  water-bath  standing  alongside 
the  tub  containing  the  chlorinating-fluid.  As  long 
as  the  sample  held  in  the  water  shows  a  coppery, 
bronzed  black,  too  much  coloring  matter  is  present, 
and  more  chlorinating  solution  has  to  be  added.  The 
feathers  are  finished  when  the  sample  held  in  the 
water  finally  shows  a  beautiful,  deep  black. 

The  feathers  are  then  taken  out  and  rinsed  in  four 
to  six  cold  water-baths.  The  more  they  are  rinsed 
and  the  longer  they  remain  in  the  water-baths,  the 
more  chlorine  is  withdrawn  and  the  more  beautiful 
the  black  appears. 

b.  Blacks  can  also  be  dyed  by  using  for  1 1  Ibs.  of 
feathers  a  bath  containing  I  Ib.  Naphthol  Black  B, 
2  ozs.  Indian  Yellow  G,  I  ^  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt,  and 
i  Ib.  sulphuric  acid.  This  yields  a  fine,  full,  jet 
black,  very  fast.  One  advantage  of  using  this 
method  over  the  logwood  process  is  that  the  feathers 
are  left  softer  and  in  a  better  condition  for  finishing. 

6.  Bronze,  a.  Green.  The  feathers  dyed  black  ac- 
cording to  the  directions  given  under  $a  are  brought 
into  a  bath  of  100°  F.  to  which,  for  every  n  Ibs.  of 
feathers,  a  solution  of  7  ozs.  Ia  Diamond-Fuchsine  in 
large  crystals  has  been  added.  After  heating  the 
bath  to  167°  F.,  manipulate  the  feathers  in  it  until 


1 68      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

they  show  a  beautiful,  lustrous  green-bronze.     Then 
take  them  out  and  rinse. 

b.  Olive.     Treat  as  above  with  a  dye-bath  consist- 
ing of  3^  ozs.  of  Ia  Diamond-Fuchsine  and  25^  ozs. 
of  extra  superfine  Aniline  Violet  6  B. 

c.  Gold.     Treat  as  above  with  a  dye-bath  consist- 
ing of  \Y^  ozs.  of  Ia  Diamond-Fuchsine  and  5^  ozs. 
of  extra  superfine  Aniline  Violet  6  B. 

7.  Other  colors,  including  fashionable  colors,  a. 
Cream,  ivory.  Naturally  white  or  thoroughly  de- 
colorized feathers  are  dyed  in  a  "hand-heat"  bath 
to  which  a  very  small  quantity  of  dissolved  Pale 
Yellow  has  been  added.  Final  shading  according  to 
sample  is  effected  with  a  very  small  quantity  of 
Orange. 

It  may  here  be  remarked  that  all  the  vessels  used 
must  be  thoroughly  cleansed,  especially  when  used 
for  light  colors. 

b.  Rose.     Dye  the  pure  white  feathers  yellowish 
with  a  very  weak  solution  of  Eosin  in  a  neutral  bath 
of  167°  F.     If  the  sample  is  bluish,  dye  bluish  with 
Eosin.     Final  shading  according  to  sample  may  be 
effected  with  Pale  Yellow. 

c.  Salmon.     Dye  with  solution  of  Eosin  and  Pale 
Yellow  in  a  neutral  bath  of  167°  F.     Shade  accord- 
ing to  sample  with  both  coloring-matters. 

d.  Maise,  bamboo.     Dye  the  white  feathers  in  a 
bath  to  which  sulphuric  acid,  Azo-yellow,  and  a  little 
Orange  have  been  added,  heating  up  to  190°  F.    For 
bamboo  add  a  little   more   orange  than   for   maize. 
Final  shading  is  effected  with  the  above  mentioned 
dye-stuffs  according  to  sample. 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   FEATHERS.  1 69 

To  all  acid  dye-baths  only  so  much  sulphuric  and 
tartaric  acids  should  be  added  that  a  small  excess  is 
perceptible  to  the  taste. 

e.  Pale  blue.     Manipulate  for  a  quarter  of  a  hour 
the  cleansed  white  feathers  in  a  bath  to  which  a  weak 
solution  of  extra  superfine,  water-soluble  Pale  Blue 
has  been  added,  heating  up  to  190°  F.     Then  take 
out  the  feathers  and   add  to  the  dye  bath  sufficient 
sulphuric  acid  diluted  with  cold  water  to  give  it  a 
slightly  acid  taste.    Then  replace  the  feathers,  handle 
them  for  some  time,  and,  if  necessary,  add  coloring 
matter  until  the  sample-color  has  been  obtained. 

f.  Butter,  bouton  d'or,  mandarin,  coq  roche.     The 
feathers  decolorized,  or  eventually  freed  from  grease, 
are  brought  into  a  bath  of   145°  F.  to  which  some 
sulphuric  acid,  Azo-yellow,  and  a  little  Orange  have 
been   added.     Handle    thoroughly  and    effect   final 
shading  with  the  above-mentioned  coloring  matters. 

For  bouton  d'or  a  little  Blue  may  also  be  em- 
ployed;  for  mandarin  quite- a  considerable  quantity 
of  Orange  ;  and  for  coq  roche  much  Orange  and  some 
Ponceau.  The  bath  is  heated  to  200°  F. 

g.  Parme,    heliotrope,    prune.     The    feathers    are 
dyed  in  a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid  and 
heated  to    145°   F.,  with   Acid   Violet  R  and   Acid 
Violet  6  B.     According  to  whether  the  sample  is 
clearer  or  duller,  final  shading  may  also  be  effected 
with   Acid   Fuchsine,   Fast  Red,   Ponceau,  Orange, 
and,  on  the  other  hand,  with  Pensee  Lake  and  Indigo- 
carmine.     Heat  to  200°  F. 

h,   Gold,  old  gold,     White  feathers  are  dyed,  ac- 


1 70   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

cording  to  sample,  in  an  acidulated  bath  at  145°  F. 
with  Azo-yellow,  Orange,  and  Pensee  Lake ;  for  the 
latter,  Indigo-carmine  may  be  substituted. 

j.  Gray.  For  the  paler  shades,  white  feathers  are 
taken,  and  for  the  darker,  feathers  freed  from  fat. 
They  are  dyed  with  Aniline-Gray,  extra  superfine, 
and  sulphuric  acid  at  2OO°  F.  Shade  according  to 
sample,  with  very  small  additions  of  Fast  Brown, 
Orange,  Azo-yellow,  etc. 

k.  Coquilicot,  cardinal.  Dye  the  feathers,  either 
white  or  freed  from  fat,  according  to  sample,  with 
sulphuric  acid,  some  saccharic  acid,  Ponceau  3  R, 
and  Genuine  Red  at  200°  F. 

/.  Garnet.  Treat  like  the  preceding,. but,  accord- 
ing to  sample,  use  for  yellow  tones  red  coloring- 
matters  with  a  yellow  tinge  such  as  Orange,  Ponceau 
with  Pensee  Lake,  or  Indigo-carmine ;  and  for  blue 
tone,  coloring-matters  with  a  bluish  tinge,  such  as 
Fast  Red,  Acid  Fuchsine ;  also  Acid  Violet,  or 
Marine-blue. 

m.  Beige,  tobacco,  Siam,  and  intervening  shades. 
Feathers  freed  from  fat  may  be  used.  Heat  and 
acidity  of  the  bath  as  usual.  Dye  with  Azo-yellow, 
Orange,  and  Pensee  lake.  For  the  final  shading 
Fast  Brown,  as  well  as  Fast  Red,  Ponceau  or  Indigo- 
carmine  may  be  used  as  required. 

n.  Chartreuse — pale  yellow-green.  Dye  white 
feathers,  according  to  sample,  in  a  bath  heated  to 
200°  F.  with  sulphuric  acid,  Azo-green,  and  Acid 
green. 

o.   Cresson — dull  yellow-green.     Dye  in  the  ordi- 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  I /I 

nary  acidulated  bath  with  Azo-yellow,  Acid  Green, 
and  Aniline-Gray,  extra  superfine,  as  well  as  event- 
ually with  some  Orange.  Heat  to  200°  F.  Shade, 
according  to  sample,  if  necessary,  with  Pensee  Lake 
or  Indigo-carmine. 

p.  Olive.  Dye  with  Azo-yellow,  Orange,  and 
Acid  Green  in  the  acidulated  bath  at  200°  F.  Shade, 
if  required,  with  Pensee  Lake,  Indigo-carmine,  and 
also  Fast  Brown.  Feathers  freed  from  grease  may 
be  used. 

q.  Vesuve,  Etna — dull,  fiery  tones.  Dye,  accord- 
ing to  sample,  white  feathers,  or  feathers  freed  from 
grease,  in  the  ordinary  bath  with  sulphuric  acid, 
Ponceau,  Orange,  and  eventually  Azo-yellow,  as  well 
as  for  bluing,  with  Pensee  Lake,  Indigo-carmine,  or 
Acid  Violet.  Much  red  and  yellow  coloring  matters 
give  a  deep,  fiery  tone. 

r.  Vieux-rose  belongs  to  the  so-called  distemper 
colors.  Dye  in  the  ordinary  bath,  according  to 
sample,  with  Genuine  Red,  Ponceau,  or  Orange,  and 
Pensee  Lake. 

The  first  and  the  latter  coloring-matters  yield 
bluish  tones  ;  Orange  and  Pensee  Lake  more  yellow- 
ish and  dull  colors. 

8.  Navy,  admiral.  Dye  with  Pensee  Lake,  In- 
digo-carmine, and  Marine-blue  of  best  quality.  Be- 
sides with  these  coloring-matters,  final  shading  may 
also  be  effected  with  Acid  Violet  and  Acid  Fuchsine. 
Acidity  and  heat  of  the  bath  as  usual. 

/.  Russe.  Dye  in  a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric 
acid  with  Azo-yellow  and  Acid  Green.  Shade  with 


1/2      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Indigo-carmine  or  Pensee  Lake,  eventually  also  with 
Marine-blue,  and,  to  give  the  tone  some  warmth,  also 
with  orange.  Heat  to  200°  F. 

u.  Gray-blue  colors.  Water-soluble  Aniline  Pale 
Blue,  with  Gray,  extra  superfine,  in  a  bath  acidulated 
with  sulphuric  acid.  Shade,  according  to  sample, 
with  Acid  Violet,  Pensee  Lake,  or  Indigo-carmine. 
Acidity  and  heat  as  usual.  . 

v.  Green-blue  colors.  Pale  Blue,  Acid  Green. 
Shade,  according  to  sample,  with  Azo-yellow,  Indigo- 
carmine,  or  Pensee  Lake,  also  orange.  Acidity  and 
heat  of  the  bath  as  usual. 

w.  Maroon,  loutre.  Dye  in  the  ordinary  bath  with 
Orange  and  Pensee  Lake.  Shade  with  Azo-yellow, 
Fast  Brown,  and  Indigo-carmine  as  well  as  Marine- 
blue. 

Remarks.  From  d  on,  the  bath,  if  not  otherwise 
mentioned,  is  always  acidulated  with  sulphuric  and 
tartaric  acids,  so  that  a  slight  excess  of  them  can  be 
detected  by  the  taste.  The  temperature  of  the  bath 
is  at  first  kept  at  145°  F.,  and  in  dyeing  increased  to 
200°  F. 

Ombre  {shaded),  tricolor ed.  Dye  the  feathers  the 
palest  color  of  the  sample,  which  is  generally  on  the 
point.  Then,  for  the  reception  of  the  second  color 
of  the  sample,  stretch  the  feathers  in  a  frame  which 
is  effected  as  follows: — 

Take  two  strips  and  place  them  across  the  shad- 
ing-box described  below,  so  that  they  project  about 
2  inches  on  each  side.  The  strips  may  be  either  of 
wood  \y^  inches  wide  and  ^  inch  thick,  or  of  stout 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   FEATHERS.  T/3 

sheet  copper.  One  of  each  pair  of  strips  is  provided 
near  each  end  and  in  the  centre  with  copper  screws 
which  accurately  fit  into  holes  in  the  other  strip. 
Cover  the  strip  provided  with  screws  with  a  rubber 
strip  of  the  same  size,  and  upon  the  latter  place 
feathers  alongside  one  another  up  to  the  end  screws. 
Now  place  upon  them  another  rubber  strip  of  the 
same  size  as  the  first,  and  fit  the  other  copper  strip 
upon  the  screws.  Then  screw  both  strips  together 
by  means  of  strong  nuts,  so  that  the  intermediate 
space  not  occupied  by  feathers  is  filled  up  with 
rubber. 

The  entire  lot  being  thus  stretched  in  strips,  the 
feathers  are  taken  to  the  shading-box,  which  consists 
of  a  rectangular  copper  box  about  25^  inches  long, 
I9}4  inches  wide,  and  3^  inches  deep.  It  is  placed 
in  an  exactly  horizontal  position  over  the  fire,  or  a 
steam-pipe  is  introduced.  The  box  is  filled  about 
one-quarter  full  with  water,  which  is  acidulated  and 
the  required  coloring- matter  for  the  second  color  to 
be  dyed  is  added.  When  the  dye-bath  has  acquired 
the  required  temperature,  place  the  strips  with  the 
feathers  across  the  box,  so  that  the  feathers  are  about 
three-quarters  covered  by  the  dye-bath.  Now  dye 
at  200°  F.,  occasionally  shaking  the  strips  with 
feathers,  so  that  the  coloring  matter  may  penetrate 
as  uniformly  as  possible,  and  the  boundary  between 
the  two  colors  be  not  too  sharply  defined. 

When  the  second  color  has  been  dyed  according 
to  sample,  the  strips  are  unscrewed  and  the  feathers 
shifted.  This  is  effected  by  drawing  them  uniformly 


1/4      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

forward,  so  that,  with  the  shading-box  filled  to  about 
the  same  depth,  the  darkest  (third)  color  can  be  ap- 
plied to  full  one-half  the  length  of  the  feather.  The 
strips  being  again  screwed  together,  are  replaced 
upon  the  shading-box,  the  latter  now  containing  the 
darker  dye-bath. 

It  may  here  be  remarked  that  for  ombre,  as  well  as 
horde,  indigo  preparations,  such  as  Indigo-carmine, 
Pensee  Lake,  as  well  as  Acid  Indigo,  should  as  much 
as  possible  be  avoided,  they  possessing  the  property 
of  very  readily  running  into  the  neighboring  pale 
color,  and  thus  giving  a  bad  appearance  to  the 
boundary.  Hence,  for  dark  colors  it  is  best  to  use 
Marine-blue,  Violet  6  B,  or  Gray,  Acid  Green, 
Nigrosine,  etc. 

The  last  color  having  been  dyed,  a  wide  vessel  is 
prepared  for  rinsing.  The  bath  should  be  slightly 
acidulated  and  the  feathers,  stretched  in  the  frame, 
rinsed  as  far  as  they  project  from  the  latter.  The 
object  of  this  is  to  remove  any  loosely  adhering  dark 
coloring  matter  before  the  feathers  are  removed  from 
between  the  strips,  otherwise  there  might  be  danger 
of  the  pale  colors  of  one  feather  coming  in  contact 
with  the  dark  color  of  another.  The  feathers  are 
finally  taken  from  between  the  strips  and  thrown  into 
an  acidulated  rinsing  bath.  When  rinsed  they  are 
taken  out,  care  being  taken  that  the  colors  of  the 
same  shade  lie  alongside  one  another.  The  feathers 
are  then  immediately  strung  together,  swung  to  and 
fro,  and  dried. 

9.  Borde    (bordered  feathers).      a.   Light   mirror, 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   FEATHERS.  175 

dark  border.  The  cleaned  naturally  white  or  de- 
colorized feathers  are  dyed  in  accordance  with  the 
light  mirror  of  the  sample.  Three  to  five  of  them 
are  then  placed  one  upon  the  other  upon  a  narrow, 
four-cornered  stick,  so  that  the  quills  cover  one  an- 
other, and  the  latter  are  firmly  tied  in  three  places  to 
the  stick  with  twine.  When  the  feathers  are  spread 
out,  their  points  and  side-branches  then  hang  down. 
Now  bring  hot  water  into  a  suitable  shallow  dish,  or, 
for  larger  lots,  into  the  shading-box,  acidulate,  and 
add  the  coloring  matter  required  for  the  dark  border. 
Then  place  the  sticks,  to  which  the  feathers  are 
secured,  over  the  vessel,  so  that  the  feathers  dip  in 
the  dye-bath  as  far  as  the  border  is  to  extend.  After 
dyeing  at  200°  F.,  take  the  feathers  out,  rinse  in  an 
acidulated  water-bath,  draw  through  starch- water, 
swing  to  and  fro,  and  dry. 

b.  Dark  mirror,  light  border.  Dye  the  feathers  in 
accordance  with  the  light  border  of  the  sample,  and 
dry  without  starching.  Then  firmly  tie  several  thick- 
nesses of  paper  around  the  border.  The  feathers 
thus  protected  are  then  dyed  in  the  ordinary  manner 
in  accordance  with  the  dark  mirror  of  the  sample. 
The  operation  must  be  performed  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible to  prevent  the  protecting  cover  of  the  border 
from  soaking  through  and  thus  spoiling  the  latter. 
Then  rinse  in  a  clean  water- bath,  next  in  one  acidu- 
lated with  sulphuric  acid,  and,  after  removing  the 
paper,  rinse  once  more.  The  feathers  are  then 
strung  together,  drawn  through  starch-water,  passed 
through  the  centrifugal,  and  dried. 


1/6      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

Another  method  of  protecting  the  first  color  in 
the  second  dye-bath  is  as  follows :  Take  a  copper- 
plate, similar  to  those  used  in  shading,  but  some- 
what shorter  and  wider,  and  provided  only  on  each 
end  with  a  screw,  which  should,  however,  be  about 
4  inches  long.  Several  other  copper-plates  of  the 
same  size  as  the  one  above  described  are  required. 
They  are,  however,  only  furnished  with  holes  in 
which  the  screws  of  the  first  plate  accurately  fit. 

Now  place  the  feathers,  spread  out  between  two 
rubber  plates  of  equal  size,  and  the  shape  of  the  por- 
tion of  the  feather  to  be  protected,  upon  the  first 
copper-plate,  lay  upon  it  another  plate,  then  a  feather 
between  rubber-plates,  upon  this  another  copper- 
plate, and  so  on  alternately  as  many  feathers  between 
rubber-plates  and  copper-plates  as  the  length  of  the 
screws  will  permit.  Now  screw  the  whole  together 
with  strong  nuts,  and  dye  in  accordance  with  the 
dark  mirror  of  the  sample.  After  dyeing  rinse,  and 
in  the  second  rinsing  water,  which  should  be  acidu- 
lated, take  the  feathers  from  between  the  plates. 
The  feathers  are  then  strung  together,  drawn  through 
starch-water,  passed  through  the  centrifugal,  and 
dried. 

It  is  advisable  first  to  soak  the  rubber-plates  in  hot 
water,  so  that  they  become  quite  soft. 

The  above  described  method  has  the  advantage 
that  the  feathers  can  be  protected  wherever  desired, 
and  by  the  use  of  properly  shaped  rubber  plates  any 
required  design  may  be  produced.  Another  method 
of  producing  contrasting  colors — however,  without 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  177 

any  special  design — is  as  follows  :  Firmly  wrap  twine 
around  the  feathers  so  as  to  leave  a  few  places  free, 
and  dye.  The  places  protected  by  the  twine  w  11  re- 
main colorless,  or  retain  the  color  previously  applied, 
whilst  the  places  left  free  will  show  the  new  color. 
By  now  freeing  about  one-half  of  the  protected  por- 
tion from  twine,  and  partially  covering  the  previously 
applied  color,  and  again  dyeing,  four  different  colors 
will  be  obtained.  By  thus  continuing  the  manipula- 
tion, and  carefully  choosing  the  tones  so  that  the 
colors  alongside  one  another  contrast,  feathers  show- 
ing all  possible  tones  may  be  obtained. 

Dyeing  Fancy  Feathers. 

i.  Cleaning.  With  the  exception  of  ostrich 
feathers,  the  term  fancy  feathers  is  applied  to  all 
kinds  of  feathers  used  in  the  manufacture  of  orna- 
mental feathers,  hence  including  those  from  nearly 
all  kinds  of  birds.  There  being  considerable  differ- 
ence in  the  content  of  fat,  various  methods  of  clean- 
ing have  to  be  employed.  The  treatment  in  dyeing 
also  varies  somewhat,  since  the  feathers  of  many 
birds  show  a  different  behavior  towards  the  coloring- 
matters. 

Chicken  feathers  containing  no  fat  need  not  be 
washed,  at  least  not  for  dark  colors ;  they  only  re- 
quire, before  dyeing,  to  be  thoroughly  moistened  in 
a  hot  water-bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid. 
However,  it  is  recommended  to  once  or  twice  wash 
all  feathers  which  are  to  show  luster,  in  a  bath  of 
Castile  soap. 

12 


178      DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

On  account  of  their  content  of  dirt,  most  fancy 
feathers  require  thorough  washing,  which  is  effected 
as  follows : — 

For  ii  Ibs.  of  feathers  prepare  a  bath  of  100°  F. 
to  which  add  26^  ozs.  of  good  white  soap,  thor- 
oughly dissolved.  Stir  the  feathers  in  this  bath  for 
about  10  minutes,  and  then  let  them  stand,  well 
covered  by  the  bath,  for  one  hour.  Then  after  stir- 
ring a  little  more  bring  them  into  a  sieve. 

Now  prepare  a  fresh  bath  of  the  same  temperature, 
to  which  3  Ibs.  of  Castile  soap  well  dissolved  have 
been  added.  Handle  the  feathers  well  in  this  bath 
and  then  let  them  stand  for  one  hour,  after  which 
they  are  again  thoroughly  handled  and  brought  into 
a  sieve.  They  are  then  passsed  in  succession  through 
two  baths  of  100°  F.,  to  each  of  which  has  been 
added  I  Ib.  of  soda  well  dissolved.  They  are  handled 
10  minutes  in  each  bath.  They  are  then  rinsed  in 
two  cold  water-baths,  next  in  one  acidulated  with 
sulphuric  acid,  and  again  rinsed  in  clean  water,  when 
they  are  ready  for  dyeing.  Skins,  heads,  wings,  etc., 
must  be  more  rapidly  handled,  and  are  not  worked 
in  the  soda-baths,  as  the  fleshy  sinews  and  skin 
would  be  dissolved.  They  are  washed  for  a  short 
time  in  a  good  soap-bath,  rinsed  in  warm  water  and 
then  in  water  slightly  acidulated.  White  skins, 
wings,  etc.,  intended  for  light  colors,  are  washed  in 
two  quite  concentrated  soap-baths,  then  in  two  very 
warm  water-baths,  rinsed  first  in  slightly  acidulated, 
and  finally  in  cold,  water. 

2.  Decolorizing.     Decoloration  is  made  use  of  only 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  179 

for  wings  and  bird  skins,  and  for  some  larger,  more 
valuable  varieties  of  feathers.  The  process  is  the 
same  as  given  for  ostrich  feathers,  which  see. 

3.  Freeing  from  fat.     The  process  is  the  same  as 
given  for  ostrich  feathers,  but  is  of  greater  import- 
ance here,  it  frequently  being   the  initial  and  final 
operation,  after  which  the  articles   are  ready  for  the 
manufacturer.     The  bath  is   used  according  to  the 
various    natural    designs    of    the   skins,    wings,    and 
feathers,  the  result  always  being  an  agreeable  tone. 
The  white   mixed   with  the  natural  design    usually 
suffers  somewhat  from  the  chromate  of  potassium, 
but  is  restored  by  the  subsequent  saccharic  acid  bath. 

4.  White.     White  fancy  feathers  are  brought  into 
a  bath  of  100°  F.  which,  for  every  10  Ibs.  of  feathers, 
contains   two  Ibs.   of    dissolved   Castile   soap.     The 
feathers  are  thoroughly  handled  for  one-quarter  of 
an  hour,  and  then  taken  out.  They  are  next  brought 
into  a  fresh  bath  of  the  same  temperature,  but  con- 
taining 3  Ibs.  of  Castile  soap  in  solution,  where  they 
remain  for  one  hour,  being  from  time  to  time  thor- 
oughly handled.     They  are  then  taken  out  and,  to 
remove  the  soap,  are  worked  through  two  baths  of 
1 00°  F.  each  containing  I  Ib.  of  soda.     They  are  then 
twice  rinsed  in  cold  water. 

They  are  next  brought  into  a  warm  water-bath  to 
which  3  Ibs.  of  peroxide  of  hydrogen  have  been 
added.  In  this  bath  the  feathers  remain  for  one 
hour,  when  they  are  taken  out  and  brought  into  a 
bath  of  122°  F.,  to  which  I  Ib.  of  potassium  bisul- 
phide has  been  added.  They  remain  in  this  bath  for 


ISO      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

one  hour,  when  they  are  brought  into  a  fresh  warm 
bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid.  They  are  then 
rinsed  in  a  cold  bath  and  next  blued,  according  to 
sample,  in  a  bath  to  which  best  aniline-violet  6B, 
dissolved  in  alcohol,  has  been  added.  They  are  then 
passed  through  the  centrifugal  and  dried. 

Pale  blue,  marine-blue,  or  a  redder  number  of 
violet  may  also  be  used  for  bluing.  The  reddish 
tinge  of  the  blue  depends  on  the  white ;  the  yellower 
the  latter,  the  redder  the  blue  must  be.  The  blue 
must  be  dissolved  in  alcohol,  since,  if  dissolved  in 
water,  small  blue  spots  are  formed  in  cold  bluing. 

5.  Dyeing  black,  a.  Chicken  feathers.  Twenty 
Ibs.  of  unwashed  feathers  are  brought  into  a  water- 
bath  of  about  200  quarts  heated  to  200°  F.,  and  to 
which  7  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid  previously  diluted 
with  cold  water  have  been  added.  Stir  with  a  crutch 
or  stick  until  all  the  feathers  are  thoroughly  moist- 
ened. Then  cover  and  let  stand  till  the  next  morning. 

Mordanting.  Fill  a  kettle  which  should  be  free 
from  acid,  and  have  a*  capacity  of  at  least  200  quarts, 
with  water  and  start  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils, 
add  20  Ibs.  of  logwood  and  16  Ibs.  of  fustic,  each 
dye-wood  securely  tied  in  a  bag,  so  as  to  leave 
plenty  of  room  for  expansion.  Boil  briskly  for  one 
hour.  Then  take  out  the  bags  and  add  2^  Ibs.  of 
best,  white  tartar,  ground,  2  Ibs.  of  green  vitriol,  and 
23  ozs.  each  of  blue  vitriol  and  potassium  chromate. 
Stir  well  on  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  until  all  is  dis- 
solved, then  bring  the  whole  to  the  boiling-point, 
and  finally  add  sufficient  cold  water  to  reduce  the 
temperature  of  the  bath  to  145°  F. 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   FEATHERS. 

The  feathers  having  an  hour  previous  to  this  been 
taken  from  the  wash-bath,  and  placed  in  a  sieve  to 
drain,  are  now  brought  into  the  kettle  and  stirred, 
with  constant  firing,  so  they  cannot  remain  for  any 
length  of  time  on  the  bottom,  or  on  the  hot  sides  of 
the  kettle,  otherwise  the  points  might  readily  scorch. 

When  the  mordanting  bath  has  acquired  a  tem- 
perature of  185°  F.,  the  fire  is  withdrawn  and,  after 
handling  the  feathers  for  some  time  longer,  cover  the 
kettle  in  the  manner  described  under  "  dyeing  ostrich 
feathers  black."  The  feathers  remain  in  the  kettle 
till  the  next  morning,  when  they  are  taken  out  and 
placed  in  a  sieve.  Then  empty  the  kettle,  wash  it 
with  water  (no  acid  should  be  used),  refill  it  with 
water,  and  start  the  fire.  The  feathers  are  now 
rinsed  four  to  six  times  until  the  rinsing  water  ap- 
pears clear.  Then  fill  a  barrel  with  boiling  water 
and  dissolve  in  it  3^  ozs.  of  potassium  chromate. 
Bring  the  feathers  into  this  bath,  stir  well,  and  let 
them  stand. 

Dyeing.  Bring  20  Ibs.  of  logwood  into  the  kettle 
and  boil  briskly  for  one  hour.  Then  remove  the  bag 
containing  the  logwood  and  reduce  the  temperature 
of  the  bath  to  145°  F.  by  the  addition  of  cold  water. 
The  feathers  having  been  allowed  to  drain  off  in  the 
sieve  for  half  an  hour  are  then  brought  into  the 
kettle  and  thoroughly  handled,  the  temperature  of 
the  bath  being  gradually  increased  to  194°  F.  The 
fire  is  then  withdrawn,  and  after  handling  the  feathers 
for  some  time  longer,  the  kettle  is  covered  in  the 
previously  described  manner  and  allowed  to  stand 


1 82   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

overnight.  The  next  morning  the  feathers  are 
brought  into  a  sieve  and  several  times  rinsed  in  cold 
water,  when  they  are  brought  into  a  bath  of  100°  F. 
containing  2  Ibs.  of  soda  in  solution.  They  are  next 
placed  in  a  fresh  bath  of  the  same  temperature,  con- 
taining 10  Ibs.  of  good  white  soap  in  solution.  Here 
they  are  thoroughly  handled  for  one  hour,  when  they 
are  taken  out  and  passed  in  succession  through  two 
soda-baths  of  100°  F.,  each  bath  containing  2  Ibs.  of 
soda,  when  they  are  once  more  rinsed. 

Treatment  with  chlorine.  The  chlorine  solution 
used  for  this  purpose  is  of  the  same  composition  as 
that  employed  in  chlorinating  ostrich  feathers.  Add 
some  of  the  solution  to  a  water-bath  of  about  400 
quarts  heated  to  1 1 1  °  F.,  stir  thoroughly  and  work 
the  feathers  in  it.  After  10  minutes  take  out  a 
handful  of  feathers,  place  them  in  a  clean  water-bath 
and  examine  them  in  a  good  light.  If  they  cannot 
be  well  seen  in  the  water,  dry  five  to  ten  of  them.  If 
the  black  shows  a  coppery  lustre,  add  a  correspond- 
ing quantity  of  chlorine  solution  to  the  bath,  stirring 
constantly.  If  at  the  next  examination  the  black 
appears  clear  and  deep,  take  the  feathers  quickly 
from  the  bath,  rinse  them  in  three  or-four  cold  water- 
baths,  pass  them  through  the  centrifugal,  and  dry. 

b.  Turkey  feathers.  Wash  the  feathers  according 
to  directions  given  under  cleaning.  They  are  then 
in  the  main  treated  like  chicken  feathers,  the  only 
differences  being  as  follows  :  i.  Gently  boil  the  mor- 
danting bath  with  the  feathers  for  ^  hour.  2.  After 
standing  in  the  mordanting  bath  overnight,  the 


CLEANING  AND  DYEING  FEATHERS.     1 83 

feathers  are  taken  out  and  spread  out  in  the  air  for 
one  hour.  3.  During  this  time  add  to  the  mordant- 
ing bath  used  about  one-quarter  of  the  quantity  of 
mordant  originally  employed.  4.  Return  the  cooled 
feathers  to  the  mordanting  bath,  heat  to  the  boiling- 
point  and  let  stand,  well  covered,  overnight.  5.  The 
next  morning  take  them  out,  cool  them  in  the  air 
and  then  rinse.  The  treatments  with  chlorine  solu- 
tion and  dyeing  are  the  same  as  for  chicken  feathers, 
except  gently  boiling  ^  hour. 

c.  Pigeon  feathers.     Wash    thoroughly  according 
to  directions  given    under  cleaning.      Then  subject 
the  feathers  to  the  same  treatment  as  given  under 
$a,  observing  the  following  differences:    I.  Instead 
of  moistening  in   a  bath  acidulated  with  sulphuric 
acid,  wash  thoroughly  as  above  mentioned.     2.  For 
mordanting  take  y£  part  more  fustic  and  bring  the 
bath  with  the  feathers  to  the  boiling-point.     3.  Boil 
for  a  short  time  in  the  dye-bath.     4.  Omit  the  soap 
and  soda-bath. 

d.  Goose  and  duck  feathers.     Wash  thoroughly  ac- 
cording to  directions  given  under  cleaning.     Then 
treat  the  feathers  in  the  same  manner  as  given  under 
$a,  observing  the  following  differences  :    I.  The  mor- 
danting bath  should  contain  ^  more  fustic.     2.  Boil 
in  the  mordanting  and   dye-baths  for  half  an  hour. 
3.  Omit  the  soap  and  soda-baths. 

e.  Peacock  feathers.     The  treatment  is  the  same 
as  for  ostrich  feathers,  but  the  feathers  must  be  freed 
from  their  natural  bronze  by  treating  them  according 
to  directions  given  under  "Dyeing  ostrich  feathers,  3." 


1 84   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

/.  Parrot  feathers.  Treat  the  same  as  given  for 
turkey  feathers,  but  first  remove  the  natural  bronze 
according  to  directions  given  under  3.  The  tempera- 
ture of  the  baths  should  not  exceed  167°  F. 

g.  Skins  of  kingfishers  and  magpies.  Treat  the 
skins  in  a  concentrated  bath  of  good  white  soap,  and 
then  rinse  in  several  warm  waters.  They  are  then 
placed  for  one  hour  in  a  strong  chlorine  bath  of  100° 
F.,  prepared  according  to  directions  given  under 
"Dyeing  ostrich  feathers,  5."  They  are  then  rinsed 
twice  in  cold  water  and  next  brought  into  a  strong 
logwood  bath  of  100°  F.,  where  they  remain  for  two 
hours.  Then,  without  rinsing,  they  are  placed  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  bath  of  medium  strong  potash  solu- 
tion heated  to  100°  F.  Next  rinse  thoroughly  and 
return  them  to  the  logwood  bath  for  one  hour.  Then 
rinse  thoroughly,  draw  them  through  a  good  soap- 
bath,  rinse  again,  and  finally  treat  with  chlorine. 

h.  All  other  kinds  of  birds'  wings,  skins,  heads  and 
tails.  Wash  according  to  directions  given  under 
cleaning.  Dye  as  given  under  5<z,  but  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  bath  should  not  exceed  167°  F. 

6.  Bronze — Green,  olive,  gold.     The  feathers  are 
dyed  black,  and  rinsed,  but  not  treated  with  chlorine. 
They  are  then  dyed  in  the  same  manner  as  given  for 
ostrich  feathers. 

7.  Other  colors,  including  mode  colors.     The  treat- 
ment is  the  same  as  given  for  ostrich  feathers. 

8.  Ombre.     The    same    directions    as    given    for 
ostrich  feathers  also  apply  here,  but  for  fancy  feathers 
two  colors  are,  as  a  rule,  only  demanded.     As  re- 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  185 

gards  the  variation  in  the  treatment  of  fancy  articles 
from  ostrich  feathers,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
section  "  Treatment  in  general." 

9.  Changeant.  Parrots,  as  well  as  other  birds  and 
wings,  are  decolorized  according  to  directions  given 
under  "  Dyeing  ostrich  feathers,  2."  They  acquire  a 
beautiful  changeant  if  dyed  cream-color  (see  ostrich 
feathers,  7),  and  dried  at  rest.  Next  prepare  a 
neutral  bath  of  122°  F.,  with  very  little  Eosin,  and 
in  this  bath  handle  the  cream-color  dyed  wings,  etc., 
without  previous  wetting,  for  a  short  time.  The  dry 
articles  become  only  partially  wet  in  the  Eosin  bath, 
the  wetted  portions  acquiring  a  salmon  color,  while 
those  not  wetted  remain  cream  color. 

A  beautiful  contrast  is  also  obtained  with  decolor- 
ized lark  wings,  as  well  as  other  wings,  etc.,  which 
have  been  dyed  Mandarin,  and  dried.  By  drawing 
such  articles  through  a  solution  of  Brilliant  Green, 
the  wetted  portions  acquire  an  olive  color,  while  the 
non  wetted  portions  remain  Mandarin. 

Drying.  The  difference  in  the  construction  of 
ostrich  and  fancy  feathers  necessitates  different 
methods  of  drying. 

Ostrich  feathers,  after  dyeing,  are  passed  through 
a  small  bath  of  cold  water,  to  which  a  considerable 
quantity  of  raw  starch  has  been  added,  two  handfuls 
of  starch  being  taken  for  3  quarts  of  water  and  I  Ib. 
of  feathers.  The  feathers  after  being  thoroughly 
rubbed  in  this  starch-water  are  squeezed  out  and 
passed  through  the  centrifugal.  The  separate 
bunches  after  being  somewhat  beaten  are  hung  over 


1 86   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

a  line.  A  special  frame  in  the  form  of  a  very  broad 
ladder,  secured  by  long  ropes  to  the  ceiling,  is  also 
used  for  this  purpose.  In  summer  the  feathers  may 
be  dried  in  the  open  air,  otherwise  a  special  room 
which  can  be  heated  to  122°  F.  is  required.  In  the 
open  air  they  are  allowed  to  hang  quietly,  it  being 
only  necessary  to  beat  them  occasionally  either  be- 
tween the  hands  or  over  the  edge  of  a  table.  But 
when  drying  in  a  room  with  no  natural  motion  of 
the  air,  the  latter  must  be  artificially  produced. 
This  is  effected  by  tying  the  lines  upon  which  the 
feathers  are  hung  somewhat  slack  and  swinging  them, 
or  the  above-mentioned  frame,  to  and  fro,  occasion- 
ally beating  or  shaking  the  feathers,  which  may 
finally  be  hung  up  in  warm  air  for  one  day. 

Articles  of  fancy  feathers  should  not  be  drawn 
through  starch-water,  but  after  rinsing  be  passed 
through  the  centrifugal. 

Feathers  of  smaller  size,  such  as  chicken  and 
pigeon  feathers,  are  brought  into  the  drying  drum. 
This  is  a  double-walled  copper  cylinder  with  perfor- 
ated ends.  A  steam-pipe  for  heating  the  drum  is 
placed  between  the  two  walls.  '  The  feathers  are  in- 
troduced into  the  drum  through  an  aperture  on  the 
side,  while  the  moisture  escapes  through  the  perfor- 
ated ends.  The  drum  is  revolved  by  means  of  a 
crank  until  the  feathers  are  dry. 

Skins,  wings,  etc.,  are  almost  completely  dried  in 
a  quiescent  state.  They  are  then  brought  into  the 
drum,  so  as  to  receive  a  steam  bath  from  the  moist- 


CLEANING  AND   DYEING   FEATHERS.  1 87 

ure  remaining  in  them,  which  gives  them  a  beautiful 
appearance. 

Larger  fancy  feathers,  such  as  the  tail  feathers  of 
roosters,  etc.,  may  be  strung  together  like  ostrich 
feathers,  and  dried  upon  the  line.  They  are,  how- 
ever, not  drawn  through  starch-water. 


VII. 

BLEACHING   AND   DYEING    STRAW   HATS. 

THE  first  step  in  bleaching  straw,  which  is  gener- 
ally more  or  less  yellow,  is  to  decolorize  it  so  far 
that  its  color  approaches  a  yellow-white,  the  raw 
material  being,  as  a  rule,  subjected  to  this  process, 
while  for  straw  either  in  the  form  of  plaits,  or  when 
made  into  hats,  bonnets,  etc.,  after-bleaching  is  only 
required.  Straw  hats  which  have  been  worn  are  also 
subjected  to  bleaching  for  the  purpose  of  restoring 
to  them  their  original  whiteness,  or  to  prepare  them 
for  dyeing.  Hats  not  too  much  soiled  may  be 
cleaned  by  sponging  them  with  a  5  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  citric  acid,  rinsing  thoroughly  in  water  and 
drying  in  the  sun.  Good  results  are  also  obtained 
by  the  following  method :  Separate  a  good  quality 
of  potash  soap  with  dilute  soda  lye,  and  add  to  it 
while  still  soft  %  of  its  weight  of  pulverized  sodium 
sulphite.  Cut  the  resulting  soap,  while  still  some- 
what moist,  into  bars  and  put  away  for  use. 

The  soap  is  used  as  follows :  Soak  the  articles  to 
be  bleached  in  water  to  which  for  every  12  quarts 
about  ^  oz.  of  ammonia  has  been  added.  The 
articles  having  been  thoroughly  soaked  and  adher- 
ing grease  removed  by  this  treatment,  a  portion  of 
(  188) 


BLEACHING   AND   DYEING   STRAW    HATS.         189 

the  above-mentioned  soap  is  dissolved  in  10  to  12 
parts  of  water,  and  the  actual  washing  effected  in 
this  solution.  When  the  articles  have  thus  been 
thoroughly  treated  they  are  immersed  in  dilute 
hydrochloric  acid — about  20  parts  water  to  I  part 
acid — so  that  they  are  thoroughly  saturated.  The 
vessel  is  then  covered,  and  after  standing  for  one 
hour,  the  articles  are  taken  out,  thoroughly  rinsed, 
and  dried. 

The  actual  decoloration  (bleaching)  of  straw, 
whether  in  a  loose  or  braided  state,  is  a  difficult 
problem,  requiring,  besides  much  labor  and  pains, 
many  years'  experience. 

Bleaching  may  be  effected  by  chlorine  as  well  as 
by  sulphurous  acid;  natural  bleaching  will  not  an- 
swer, because  the  coloring  matters  in  the  straw  are 
not  sufficiently  destroyed  thereby,  and,  moreover, 
the  straw  by  remaining  for  some  time  upon  the 
bleaching  ground  loses  strength.  Neither  can 
bleaching  with  chlorine  alone  be  recommended.  It 
exerts  a  vigorous  bleaching  effect,  but  having  to  be 
used  rather  strong,  it  makes  the  straw  brittle  and 
lustreless.  An  entirely  favorable  result  is  only  ob- 
tained by  bleaching  with  sulphur,  eventually  in  con- 
nection with  chlorine,  which,  however,  must  then  be 
used  very  weak.  But,  first  of  all,  it  is  necessary  to 
free  the  articles  of  straw  from  substances  which  offer 
a  certain  resistance  to  the  bleaching  process,  such  as 
coloring  matters,  resins,  wax,  etc.  For  this  purpose 
boil  the  articles  in  a  solution  of  potash  to  which 
white  soft-soap  and  ammonia  have  been  added. 


190      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Continue  boiling  for  at  least  two  or  three  hours, 
during  which  time  the  articles  should  be  constantly 
covered  by  the  fluid,  and  it  is  therefore  necessary  to 
replace  the  water  lost  by  evaporation  without  inter- 
rupting the  boiling. 

The  washing  of  the  boiled  articles  is  effected  first 
in  boiling-hot  water,  which  is  gradually  succeeded  by 
colder  water.  If  it  were  attempted  at  once  to  wash 
the  articles  in  cold  water,  many  of  the  above-men- 
tioned substances,  which  are  only  soluble  in  boiling 
or  hot  water,  would  be  precipitated  upon  the  fibre 
and  the  expected  result  thus  prevented.  Neither  is 
it  suitable  to  allow  the  straw  to  lie  in  the  cleaning 
bath,  because  by  slow  cooling  many  of  the  above- 
mentioned  substances  are  fixed  on  the  fibre.  The 
object  of  washing  with  boiling  water,  and  then  with 
water  becoming  gradually  colder,  is  to  detach  and 
rinse  off  from  the  fibre  the  substances  dissolved  by 
boiling. 

After  washing  allow  the  articles  to  drain  off,  and 
then  bring  them,  while  still  moist,  into  the  bleaching 
liquor.  For  bleaching,  as  above  mentioned,  chlorine 
or  sulphurous  anhydride  (sulphurous  acid)  may  be 
used.  Some  prefer  the  former,  but  many  years'  ex- 
perience has  proved  the  latter  to  be  the  best  for  the 
purpose.  Decoloration  is  very  rarely  effected  by 
means  of  gaseous  chlorine,  because  special  contri- 
vances are  required  for  the  purpose,  and,  further- 
more, the  preparation  of  chlorine  gas  demands  the 
services  of  a  skilled  person.  Hence,  a  description  of 
the  various  manipulations  with  gaseous  chlorine  is 
omitted. 


BLEACHING   AND   DYEING   STRAW   HATS.        IQI 

Wet  bleaching  with  chlorine  may  be  effected  by 
two  different  methods  ;  either  by  the  use  of  a  chloride 
of  lime  solution,  or  a  hypochlorite  solution.  The 
bleaching  liquor  from  chloride  of  lime  is  prepared 
by  stirring  a  weighed  quantity  of  chloride  of  lime 
with  some  water  in  a  wooden  vessel  lined  with  lead 
or  provided  with  a  thick  coat  of  white-lead  paint, 

FIG.  1 8. 


crushing  the  lumps  formed  and  finally  adding,  while 
stirring  constantly,  the  necessary  quantity  of  water. 

To  avoid  the  escape  of  chlorine  gas  which  causes 
loss  and  great  inconvenience  to  the  workmen,  a 
simple  apparatus  may  be  used  which  prevents  the 
access  of  air. 

A  stout  barrel  suffices  for  the  preparation  of  small 
quantities  of  bleaching  liquor.  To  the  head  and 
bottom  of  the  barrel  is  screwed,  as  shown  in  Figs.  18 


IQ2      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

and  19,  a  circular  piece  of  iron  terminating  in  short 
shafts  running  in  ball  bearings.  To  one  of  these 
shafts  is  secured  a  crank,  K,  and  on  the  same  side 
as  the  crank  is  an  adjusting  arrangement,  s.  The 
aperture  F,  which  may  be  closed  by  a  plug  or  a  stop- 
cock, serves  for  discharging  the  solution. 

In  the  interior  of  the  barrel,  to  the  head  and  bot- 

FIG.  19. 


torn,  are  fixed  at  equal  distances  from  each  other 
three  pairs  of  wooden  blocks,  between  which  are  in- 
serted the  three  movable  wings  b.  These  wings  are 
provided  with  holes,  and  secured  by  leaded  pieces  of 
iron.  The  oval  aperture  of  the  barrel  is  hermeti- 
cally closed  by  an  iron  plate  lined  with  lead  and  rest- 
ing upon  a  rubber  ring.  An  iron  strap,  d,  Fig.  20, 


BLEACHING  AND   DYEING    STRAW   HATS.        I "3 

which  is  secured  on  one  side  by  an  iron  pin,  /,  and 
rests  at  g  in  a  furcular  elevation  of  the  lid,  can  be 
firmly  pressed  down  by  a  movable  wedge,  z.  At  h 
the  strap  d  rests  in  another  furcular  elevation  secured 
to  the  barrel. 

To  secure  the  wooden  portions  of  the  barrel  against 
destruction,  they  should  either  receive  several  coats 

FIG.  20. 


of  white-lead  paint,  or,  what  is  still  better,  be  lined 
with  lead. 

The  advantages  of  such  a  vessel  for  dissolving  the 
chloride  of  lime  consist  in  that  it  can  be  hermetically 
closed,  that  solution  progresses  rapidly,  and  that  it 
can  be  thoroughly  cleansed  after  removing  the  wings. 
The  only  disadvantage  of  this  and  all  other  similar 
contrivances  is  that  the  solution  cannot  be  drawn  off" 
13 


194      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

clear,  any  residues  of  chloride  of  lime  depositing  in 
the  deepest  place  of  the  apparatus.  Since,  however, 
the  solution  has  to  be  perfectly  clear  for  use,  it  must 
be  filtered  through  close  linen. 

As  a  rule,  10  to  12  quarts  of  solution  are  made 
from  2  !bs.  of  chloride  of  lime. 

The  vessels  in  which  the  bleaching  of  straw  articles 
is  to  be  effected  must  be  either  of  wood  lined  with 
lead,  or  painted  with  white  lead  or  asphalt  lacquer, 
or  of  stoneware.  The  vessel  is  filled  as  far  as  neces- 
sary with  perfectly  clear  chloride  of  lime  solution ; 
the  straw  articles,  previously  prepared  by  boiling 
with  potash,  are  then,  while  still  moist,  introduced 
and  allowed  to  remain  several  hours,  being  frequently 
stirred.  The  principal  requisite  is  that  the  articles 
be  entirely  covered  by  the  fluid.  After  a  few  hours 
add  some  acetic  acid  or  a  corresponding  quantity  of 
strong  vinegar,  whereby  a  more  vigorous  evolution 
of  chlorine  gas  is  produced. 

By  heating  the  vessel  containing  the  chloride  of 
lime  solution  to  about  104°  F.,  the  process  of  de- 
coloration is  accelerated. 

When  sufficiently  bleached  the  articles  are  taken 
from  the  vessel,  and  rinsed  first  in  running  water  and 
then  in  a  solution  of  hyposulphite  of  soda. 

When  the  hypochlorites  (bleaching-fluids}  are  used 
the  straw  articles  are  allowed  to  remain  in  them  until 
the  desired  degree  of  decoloration  has  been  effected. 
With  hypochlorites  the  action  of  chlorine  upon  the 
vegetable  fibre  is  entirely  excluded,  their  effect  being 
solely  due  to  the  liberation  of  ozonized  oxygen. 


BLEACHING   AND    DYEING   STRAW   HATS.        195 

Such  solutions  possess  the  advantage  of  always  re- 
maining neutral  and  of  not  inducing,  as  frequently 
happens  in  bleaching  with  chloride  of  lime,  a  residue 
of  hydrochloric  acid  in  the  bleached  articles,  which 
causes  them  gradually  to  become  brittle.  Washing 
need  not  be  so  carefully  done  as  when  bleaching  with 
chloride  of  lime. 

For  bleaching  with  sulphurous  anhydride  (sulphur- 
ous acid  in  a  gaseous  state)  special  appliances 
(bleaching  chambers)  have  to  be  provided.  A 
simple  contrivance,  large  enough  for  a  few  straw  hats 
consists  of  a  tight  box  provided  with  two  apertures, 
one  of  which  serves  for  the  introduction  of  the  articles 
to  be  bleached  and  the  other  for  that  of  an  iron  dish 
containing  burning  sulphur.  The  apertures  must,  of 
course,  be  provided  with  well- closing  lids.  The 
articles  must  be  covered  with  a  cloth. 

Figure  21  shows  an  oven  for  burning  suiphur  for 
use  in  larger  plants.  The  sulphurous  anhydride  is 
produced  by  the  combustion  of  crude  sulphur  with 
the  assistance  of  compressed  air,  and  is  conducted 
into  a  pipe  the  end  of  which  is  provided  with  numer- 
ous small  holes  for  the  passage  of  the  sulphurous 
anhydride.  A  special  cooling  apparatus  is  not  re- 
quired. 

With  the  use  of  liquid  sulphurous  anhydride  the 
process  is  the  same  as  in  bleaching  with  chloride  of 
lime  solution,  the  only  difference  being  that  the  ad- 
dition of  acids  is  omitted.  The  hats  remain  im- 
mersed in  the  fluid  for  a  few  hours,  care  being  taken 
to  keep  the  vessel  containing  the  fluid  well  closed 


196      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

during  that  time.     The  process  may  in  this  case  also 
be  accelerated  by  heating  the  bleaching-fluid. 

The  process  of  bleaching  is  still  more  simplified 
by  the  use  of  a  salt  containing  sulphurous  acid,  such 
as  sulphite  or  hyposulphite  of  sodium,  etc.  Dissolve 
a  sufficient  quantity  of  such  a  salt  in  water  and  im- 
merse the  previously  cleaned  straw  articles,  while 


FIG.  21. 


still  moist,  in  the  solution,  allowing  them  to  remain 
in  it  for  several  hours.  In  the  meanwhile,  prepare 
in  another  vessel  a  dilute  solution  of  hydrochloric 
acid  free  from  iron  (one  of  tartaric  acid  is  prefer- 
able), bring  the  hats  into  the  solution,  and  after  cov- 
ering the  vessel  with  a  lid  allow  them  to  stand  until 
they  have  acquired  the  proper  degree  of  whiteness. 


BLEACHING   AND    DYEING   STRAW   HATS.         197 

If  the  hats  and  other  articles  of  straw  are  properly 
prepared  by  treatment  with  soap,  potash,  and  am- 
monia, they  will  come  from  the  bleaching-fluid  in 
a  faultless  state.  They  are  then  rinsed  in  running 
water,  and  to  increase  still  further  their  whiteness 
they  may  be  slightly  blued  with  methyl-violet  of  a 
reddish  tinge. 

For  six  hats  of  the  ordinary  kind,  35^  ozs.  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  sodium  and  2^  to  3  ozs.  of  pure  hydro- 
chloric acid  free  from  iron  are  generally  required. 
Exact  quantities  by  weight  cannot  be  given,  since 
the  variety  of  straw,  thickness  of  the  braid,  etc.,  have 
to  be  considered. 

Hydrogen  peroxide,  as  well  as  sodium  peroxide, 
is  at  present  frequently  employed  for  bleaching 
straw,  the  latter  being  placed  in  a  moist  state  in  the 
bleaching  liquor.  With  hydrogen  peroxide  the 
bleaching  bath  is  prepared  by  adding  ammonia  to 
commercial  (10  per  cent.)  hydrogen  peroxide  until 
red  litmus  paper  just  turns  blue ;  the  bath  should  be 
slightly  alkaline,  though  an  excess  of  ammonia  must 
be  carefully  avoided,  it  having  an  injurious  effect 
upon  many  articles.  The  straw  remains  immersed 
in  the  bath  for  12  hours,  and  is  then  washed.  A 
repetition  of  the  process  may  sometimes  be  neces- 
sary. 

For  bleaching  with  sodium  peroxide,  boil  the 
straw  in  a  solution  of  about  2  per  cent,  sodium  pero- 
xide, rinse  it  in  acidulated  water,  pass  it  through  a 
bath  of  sodium  bisulphite  aud  finally  wash  thoroughly 
with  water  and  dry. 


198      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

Dyeing  of  straw.  With  the  exception  of  black 
color,  aniline  colors  are  now  generally  used  for  this 
purpose,  the  latter  not  only  becoming  rapidly  fixed 
upon  the  straw,  but  also  allowing  of  many  varieties 
of  colors  and  shades. 

Black  on  straw.  In  dying  black  many  difficulties 
are  met  with,  since,  notwithstanding  the  greatest 
care  in  preparing  the  straw,  places  are  generally 
found  which  do  not  readily  absorb  the  dye. 

Experience  has  shown  that  this  evil  may  be  over- 
come as  follows  :  Add  a  solution  of  gluten  which  has 
been  allowed  to  stand  for  24  hours,  to  a  lye  of  soda  or 
potash,  and  when  a  thorough  mixture  has  been  ef- 
fected, filter  the  fluid  through  a  linen  cloth  ;  then  im- 
merse the  straw  in  the  clear  liquid  for  12  hours.  The 
straw  is  thus  freed  from  grease.  When  dry  immerse 
it  in  black  liquor  (iron  liquor)  for  12  hours  and  dry. 
Now  prepare  a  decoction  of  logwood,  add  a  decoction 
of  sumac  or  galls,  or  solution  of  tannin,  and  immerse 
the  straw  in  the  hot  fluid.  A  slight  addition  of  bichro- 
mate of  potash  improves  the  tone  of  the  dye.  Lustre 
is  produced  with  gum-arabic  or  gelatine.  When  this 
has  been  done,  rub  each  hat  with  a  woolen  cloth  and 
a  trace  of  oil,  and  finally,  to  remove  the  oil,  with  a 
clean  cloth. 

According  to  another  method,  the  hats  freed  from 
grease  are  brought  into  a  dye  bath  containing  for  25 
hats  4  Ibs.  of  logwood,  26  ozs.  of  galls,  and  5  ozs.  of 
turmeric,  and  allowed  to  boil  for  two  hours.  They 
are  then  taken  from  the  bath,  rinsed  and  immersed  in 
a  solution  of  nitrate  of  iron  at  4°  Be,  until  they  have 
acquired  the  desired  shade  of  black. 


BLEACHING   AND    DYEING   STRAW   HATS.        199 

Another  method  is  as  follows :  The  hats  are  first 
steeped  in  soda  at  5°  Be.  at  a  temperature  of  122°  F. 
for  three  hours,  rinsed  and  soaked  overnight  in  a  de- 
coction of  sumac  containing  2  %  Ibs.  sumac  for  every  5 
hats.  In  the  morning  take  out,  drain,  and  lay  the  hats 
separately  to  air  for  six  hours  ;  rinse  and  dye  at  144° 
F.,  with  2^  Ibs.  logwood  per  n  Ibs.  of  hats,  till  the 
shade  is  reached.  Lift,  drain,  dip  singly  in  a  luke- 
warm fluid  containing  8  ozs.  glue  per  2  gallons  of 
water,  dry,  and  rub  with  a  hard  brush. 

Silver-gray  on  straw  is  produced  by  boiling  the 
bleached  straw  hats  in  a  solution  of  4  Ibs.  of  pure  alum 
free  from  iron  and  3  ^  ozs.  of  tartaric  acid  for  two 
hours,  and  then  adding  sufficient  cochineal  and  indigo- 
carmine,  besides  a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid, 
to  produce  the  desired  shade.  It  may  here  be  re- 
marked that  hats  to  be  dyed  must  previously  be  freed 
from  grease  by  immersion  in  an  alkaline  lye,  and,  for 
light  colors,  bleached. 

Chestnut-brown  (for  25  straw  hats).  Boil  26^ 
ozs.  of  sanders-wood,  35%!  ozs.  of  turmeric,  and  3^ 
ozs.  of  log-wood  in  water  for  half  an  hour;  then 
strain  the  liquor  and  gently  boil  the  hats  in  it  for 
two  hours.  The  dye-bath  must  be  of  such  a  capacity 
that  the  hats  are  not  pressed  one  against  the  other. 
The  hats  are  then  thoroughly  rinsed  and  allowed  to 
stand  overnight  in  a  bath  of  nitrate  of  iron  at  4° 
Be.  They  are  finally  once  more  steeped  in  a  bath 
of  sanders-wood  and  then  in  one  of  logwood. 

When  dry,  lustre  is  imparted  by  brushing  the  hats 
with  a  hard  brush. 


200      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

A  beautiful  medium  brown,  suitable  only  for  finer 
straw  hats  (120  hats),  is  obtained  as  follows:  Im- 
merse the  hats  in  a  solution  of  tin  salt,  allowing  them 
to  remain  overnight,  and  the  next  morning  wash 
them  thoroughly  in  water ;  then  heat  a  boilerful  of 
clean  water  to  boiling  and  add  4  Ibs.  of  fustic,  2  Ibs. 
of  madder,  and  3  ozs.  of  archil.  In  this  bath  boil 
the  hats  for  about  two  hours,  and  after  adding  3  Ibs. 
of  catechu  and  3  Ibs.  of  green  vitriol,  boil  for  two 
hours  more.  None  of  the  hats  should  project  from 
the  bath,  otherwise  they  become  black.  After  dye- 
ing, cool  at  once  and  then  draw  the  hats  through 
warm  water,  whereby  they  acquire  a  beautiful  brown. 

The  cheapest  brown  on  straw  hats  (for  12  hats)  is 
obtained  as  follows :  Steep  the  hats  in  a  solution  of 
i  Ib.  of  soda,  .allowing  them  to  remain  until  they 
appear  dark  yellow.  Dissolve  in  another  vessel  4^ 
ozs.  of  green  vitriol,  immerse  the  hats  in  the  solution, 
allow  them  to  remain  for  10  to  15  minutes,  moving 
them  frequently,  and  rinse  in  warm  water.  By 
allowing  the  hats  to  remain  in  the  bath  for  a  longer 
time,  and  using  a  larger  quantity  of  green  vitriol, 
they  become  darker. 

Havana-brown  (for  22  Ibs.  of  hats).  Soak  the 
ha-ts  in  a  solution  of  4^  to  6  Ibs.  of  alum,  then  dye 
in  a  bath  of  13  ozs.  of  sanders-wood,  I  Ib.  of  tur- 
meric, 3^  ozs.  of  sumac,  and  12^  ozs.  of  logwood, 
and  rinse. 

Catechu-brown  (for  22  Ibs.  of  hats).  Boil  with 
sulphate  of  alumina  34^  ozs.,  bisulphate  of  soda 
ozs.,  sulphuric  acid  8^  ozs.  Add  to  the  bath 


BLEACHING   AND    DYEING   STRAW   HATS.        2OI 

archil,  indigo-carmine,  and  turmeric  according  to 
shade,  and  boil. 

Maroon.  Clean  the  straw  by  boiling  with  a  solu- 
tion of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  then  steep  in  a  bath 
of  logwood  tor  two  hours.  To  give  a  bluish  tint, 
add  some  blue-stone  to  the  bath ;  if  too  much  of  the 
latter  is  used,  the  straw  will  have  a  greenish  hue. 
This  color  is  not  fast,  and  is  employed  only  for  its 
cheapness. 

Violet  (for  25  hats).  Dissolve  in  a  kettle  of  suffi- 
cient capacity  4  Ibs.  of  alum,  i  Ib.  each  of  argol  and  tin 
salt,  and  boil  the  hals  in  the  solution  for  two  hours. 
Then  add  logwood  decoction,  with  a  little  alum  and 
indigo-carmine,  according  to  the  shade  desired. 

Yellow.  To  produce  the  yellow  shade  which  is 
frequently  in  such  demand,  give  the  hats  a  bath  con- 
taining a  little  picric  acid  and  acidulated  with  a  little 
sulphuric  acid,  and  let  them  dry  on  the  block.  For 
a  gloss,  rinse  in  gum  water  or  water  in  which  gela- 
tine has  been  soaked. 

The  most  beautiful  colors  on  straw,  however,  are 
obtained  with  aniline  colors,  but,  as  previously  men- 
tioned, the  straw  must  first  be  freed  from  grease  and 
bleached. 

The  aniline  colors  are  best  dissolved  by  pouring 
100  parts  of  boiling  water  over  I  part  of  coloring 
matter  and  stirring  thoroughly.  The  aqueous  solu- 
tions being  in  time  subject  to  decomposition,  it  is 
advisable  to  prepare  only  sufficient  for  present  use 
and,  before  dyeing,  filter  them  through  a  close  cloth, 
since  any  undissolved  particles  of  coloring  matter  may 
readily  cause  stains. 


202      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

The  receipts  for  plaited  straw  given  below  yield 
good  results,  special  consideration  being  given  to  the 
prevailing  mode  colors. 

Beige  on  straw.  All  colors  to  be  produced  ac- 
cording to  the.  following  receipts  must  boil  for  I  ^ 
to  2  hours  in  order  to  obtain  uniform  dyeing.  For 
clear  beige  tones,  which  are  very  much  liked,  it  is 
absolutely  necessary  not  to  be  too  saving  with  tartaric 
acid,  the  latter  having  the  property  of  imparting  to 
the  plait  a  clear  fundamental  tone,  bleaching  the 
straw  at  the  same  time.  For  dyeing  a  bale  of  straw 
weighing  about  130  Ibs: 

Pale  beige,  use  17  ozs.  tartaric  acid  and  ^  ozs. 
solid  ammoniacal  cochineal.  Boil  thoroughly,  allow 
to  cool  and  enter  the  thoroughly  cleaned  goods. 
For  paler  tones  a  trace  of  Malachite  green  may  be 
advantageously  used. 

Dark  beige  is  produced  as  above,  a  larger  quantity 
of  ammoniacal  cochineal  being  used.  In  place  of 
tartaric  acid,  the  cheaper  saccharic  acid  maybe  used, 
but  too  large  an  addition  of  it  attacks  the  straw  and 
there  is  danger  of  the  latter  breaking  after  dyeing. 

Tobacco  brown.  Prepare  a  bath  with  S^4  Ibs. 
ground  Brazil  wood,  and  2  Ibs.  extract  of  fustic. 
Enter  the  cleaned  straw  (about  130  Ibs.),  boil  thor- 
oughly for  2  hours,  then  lift,  rinse  and  enter  it  into  a 
fresh  bath  prepared  with  7  ozs.  Leather  yellow,  7 
ozs.  Brown,  and  2^  ozs.  Malachite  green.  Boil 
again  for  2  hours,  lift,  and  rinse. 

Gendarme  blue.  Boil  the  straw  for  one  hour  in  a 
bath  to  which  have  been  added  3  to  4  per  cent,  soda 


BLEACHING   AND    DYEING   STRAW    HATS.        203 

and  I  per  cent  Alkaline  blue ;  then  lift  and  add  to 
the  same  bath  3  per  cent,  sulphuric  acid.  Reenter 
the  straw  and  boil  for  one  hour.  Beautiful  tones  are 
obtained  by  using  tin  salt  in  place  of  sulphuric  acid. 

Cardinal.  For  75  Ibs.  straw  prepare  a  dye  bath 
containing  7  ozs.  Safranin  G  and  2  Ibs.  curcuma. 
Enter  the  goods,  boil  one  hour  and  rinse.  By  longer 
boiling  bluish  tones  are  obtained. 

Dark  green.  Boil  the  straw  one  hour  in  a  5  per 
cent,  sumac  decoction,  lift  and  bring  for  ^  hour  in 
a  cold  bath  containing  5  per  cent,  iron  liquor  of  10° 
Be.  Then  lift,  rinse  and  dye  in  a  2  per  cent,  solu- 
tion of  Malachite  green. 

Myrtle  green.  Make  a  dye  bath  with  9  ozs.  fustic, 
4  ozs.  indigo  extract,  I  oz.  Bismarck  brown  B,  a 
little  Induline  A,  and  a  little  Green  crystals  A,  work- 
ing at  the  boil  to  shade. 

Dark  marine  blue.  Boil  the  straw  two  hours  in  a 
bath  containing  2  per  cent,  copperas,  lift,  and  rinse ; 
then  enter  it  into  a  fresh  bath  containing  I  per  cent. 
Malachite  green  and  I  per  cent.  Methyl  violet  2  B. 
Boil  2  hours  and  rinse. 

Silver  gray.  It  is  quite  difficult  to  obtain  a  beau- 
tiful and  even  gray  color  on  straw.  All  the  various 
shades  are  best  made  with  Induline.  Prepare  a  dye 
bath  with  the  required  quantity  of  Induline,  boil  the 
goods  in  it  for  one  hour,  then  add  I  per  cent,  of  tar- 
taric  acid,  boil  again  for  one  hour,  lift  and  rinse. 

With  aniline  colors  all  possible  shades  of  color 
can  be  produced,  and  there  are  now  a  large  number 
of  such  colors  which  become  fixed  without  any 
mordant  upon  the  straw  fibre, 


VIII. 

CLEANING  AND  DYEING  GLOVES. 

IN  cleaning  gloves,  the  kind  of  glove,  whether  kid, 
Suede,  chamois,  or  buckskin,  has  to  be  taken  into 
consideration.  The  last  three  varieties  may  be 
cleaned  by  putting  them  on  the  hand  or  a  glove- 
tree  (a  wooden  hand),  and  rubbing  them  with  bread 
crumbs  or  a  stiff  brush  dipped  in  a  mixture  of  dry 
fuller's  earth  and  powdered  alum. 

Cleaning  kid  gloves.  For  gloves  much  soiled  by 
perspiration  a  mixture  of  50  parts  benzine  and  25 
parts  each  of  ether  and  chloroform  is  used.  Benzine 
may  be  saved  by  cleaning  the  gloves,  previous  to 
washing  with  benzine,  in  a  bath  of  ^  Pmt  of  skim 
milk  to  which  about  10  drops  of  ammonia  have  been 
added,  or  in  a  bath  of  I  ^  ozs.  of  filtered  quillaia  bark 
decoction  and  i  quart  soft  water  to  which  25  drops 
of  ammonia  have  been  added.  The  latter  process  is, 
however,  unsuitable  for  white  and  light-colored  ball- 
gloves,  it  leaving  behind  a  yellowish  tinge.  To  re- 
store lustre,  white  and  light  colored  gloves  are 
rubbed  with  white  talcum  powder,  while  colored 
talcum  powder  is  used  for  colored  gloves.  Water 
stains  are  removed  from  white  kid  gloves  by  soaking 
in  benzine  soap  solution  and  subsequent  vigorous 
(  204) 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   GLOVES.  205 

brushing.  The  benzine  frequently  dissolves  much 
of  the  dye  from  colored  gloves,  and  makes  them  pale 
and  patchy  in  color,  if  it  does  not  whiten  them 
entirely.  The  only  remedy  in  this  case  is  to  dye  the 
gloves. 

Another  method  occasionally  employed  is  to  soak 
colored  gloves  in  a  mixture  of  sweet  oil  with  12 
times  its  volume  of  benzine  for  about  half  an  hour, 
and  then  to  rub  dry.  This  is  certainly  attended 
with  less  risk  to  the  color,  but  it  makes  the  leather 
hard  and  brittle. 

An  excellent  method  of  cleaning  white  gloves  is 
as  follows  :  Soak  the  gloves  in  benzine.  If  there  are- 
rust  or  ink  stains  they  are  removed  before  soaking. 
To  remove  rust  stains,  damp  them  with  a  wet  pointed 
stick  and  then  pat  them  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  weak 
hydrochloric  acid.  As  soon  as  the  stain  has  disap- 
peared, rinse  the  place  and  dry  it  with  a  white  cloth. 
The  treatment  must  be  executed  as  quickly  as  pos- 
sible and  the  wetting  must  be  confined  to  the  stained 
part.  It  is  also  essential  to  remove  the  acid  com- 
pletely the  moment  it  has  done  its  work.  Ink  stains 
are  treated  in  the  same  way,  but  as  much  of  the  ink 
as  possible  should  be  removed  by  rubbing  with  a 
damp  cloth.  The  soaking  and  washing  should  be 
done  in  a  dry,  warm  room,  which  must  not  be  heated 
by  steam,  or  have  steam  escaping  in  it.  After  a 
brief  soaking,  each  glove  is  wrung,  put  on  a  glove- 
tree  and  carefully  brushed  all  over  with  a  hard  brush 
which  resembles  a  large  tooth-brush.  During  the 
process  the  brush  is  dipped  alternately  in  alcohol 


206      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

and  in  zinc  white.  The  two  make  a  paste  on  the 
brush  which  penetrates  the  pores  of  the  leather  and 
brings  away  all  dirt  and  perspiration.  Places  stiff- 
ened by  perspiration  such  as  the  finger  tips  and  the 
part  of  the  glove  covering  the  ball  of  the  thumb  are 
specially  treated  afterwards  by  rubbing  them,  using 
the  forefinger  and  thumb  of  each  hand.  This  treat- 
ment effects  a  radical  cure,  and  the  places  become 
soft  and  white  again.  The  gloves  are  then  rinsed  in 
clean  benzine.  This  is  then  squeezed  out,  and  the 
leather  is  nourished  with  a  fat  bath  for  about  half  an 
hour.  The  benzine  makes  the  leather  brittle,  and 
benzine  soap  acts  far  more  vigorously  in  the  same 
direction,  so  that  its  use  should  be  avoided.  The  fat 
bath  is  made  by  dissolving  2  Ibs.  of  lanoline  and  4 
Ibs.  of  vaseline  in  10  quarts  of  benzine  over  a  water- 
bath.  This  is  diluted  for  use  with  10  times  its  volume 
of  benzine.  Oils  must  not  be  used  as  they  turn  rancid 
and  impart  a  bad  smell  to  the  leather.  The  bath  in 
use  is  kept  in  a  vessel  with  a  tight-fitting  lid,  and  is 
reinforced  from  the  stock  solution  as  required.  Care 
must  be  taken  that  the  sediment  from  the  stock  solu- 
tion does  not  get  into  the  bath.  When  a  fresh  stock 
is  made  the  benzine  is  distilled  off  from  the  sediment 
from  the  old  solution. 

After  about  half  an  hour  in  the  fat  bath  the  gloves 
are  taken  out  one  by  one  and  well  squeezed.  They 
are  then  at  once  dusted  over  with  powdered  talcum, 
unless  there  are  still  dirty  spots  which  must  first  be 
rubbed  with  zinc  white  on  the  glove-tree  by  means 
of  a  medium  hard  brush.  All  this  and  the  powder- 


CLEANING   AND   DYEING   GLOVES.  2O/ 

ing  with  talcum  must  also  be  done  on  the  glove-tree 
before  the  glove  is  dry.  Then  put  it  on  a  stretcher 
and  polish  it  by  hard  rubbing  with  a  clean  white  linen 
cloth.  The  talcum  is  applied  with  a  linen  rag  rolled 
up  and  tied  at  the  ends  of  the  roll  and  dipped  into  a 
box  of  the  powder. 

Chamois  gloves  are  washed  in  lukewarm  soap  water 
to  which  a  few  drops  of  ammonia  have  been  added, 
Soak  the  gloves  in  the  bath  for  some  time,  facilitating 
the  loosening  of  the  dirt  by  squeezing  and  kneading. 
Then  rinse  in  clean  water,  and  draw  the  gloves 
through  a  weak  soap  bath  to  keep  them  soft  after 
drying.  This  treatment  restores  "nourishment"  to 
the  leather.  The  soap  bath  should,  however,  not  be 
too  strong,  otherwise  the  leather  becomes  smeary. 
The  gloves  are  then  thoroughly  wrung  and  rubbed 
between  the  hands  so  that  the  water  still  remaining 
in  them  is  uniformly  distributed  in  order  to  prevent 
stains  from  wringing.  They  are  then  drawn  smooth, 
stretched  with  the  glove  stretcher,  and  dried  in  the 
air,  but  not  in  the  sun  and  at  too  high  a  temperature. 
Wringing  should  not  be  done  lengthwise  but  in  the 
direction  of  the  width ;  place  the  fingers  over  the 
palm  of  the  glove. 

Colored  chamois  gloves  have  to  be  re-dyed  after 
washing,  they  losing  much  of  their  dye  during  the 
process. 

Buckskin  gloves  are  previous  to  washing  soaked  in 
lukewarm  water  for  half  an  hour.  Then  wash  them 
in  a  soap  solution  at  77°  F.  paying  special  attention 
to  the  seams  as  the  dirt  sticks  very  firmly  in  them. 


208      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Then  rinse  the  gloves  thoroughly,  wrap  them  in  a 
dry  linen  cloth  and  centrifuge,  and  finally  hang  up  to 
dry.  When  a  centrifugal  is  not  available  wring  them 
as  dry  as  possible  in  a  linen  cloth.  To  restore  flexi- 
bility and  softness  to  the  gloves  add  to  the  last  rinsing 
water  glycerine  in  the  proportion  of  two  teaspoonfuls 
to  the  quart  of  water. 

Gauntlets  are  cleaned  with  benzine,  or  in  case  they 
are  very  dirty,  with  soap,  and  then  rubbed  with  tal- 
cum. If  the  cuffs  are  tinted,  pulverize  very  pure 
white  lead  (krems),  stir  with  dissolved  gum-arabic 
and  water  (half  and  half)  to  a  thin  paste  and  apply 
it  with  a  brush  to  the  cuffs.  After  drying,  rub 
vigorously  with  a  white  cloth  to  restore  the  lustre. 

Suede  gloves  are  cleaned  as  follows  :  Place  them  in 
a  bath  of  ammonia  2  parts,  water  8  parts,  for  two 
days,  then  rinse  in  cold  soft  water,  and  dry  in  the 
air.  Since  by  this  method  of  washing  the  gloves  are 
not  rubbed  as  is  necessarily  the  case  in  washing  with 
soap,  the  leather  does  not  become  rough  but  pre- 
serves its  original  appearance. 

Dyeing  kid  gloves.  After  the  gloves  have  been 
washed  and  powdered  as  previously  described,  the 
powder  should  not  all  be  rubbed  off,  but  a  little 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  on  the  leather.  They 
should  then  be  dyed,  the  dye  being  generally  ap- 
plied with  a  brush,  but  a  flannel  rag  is  to  be  pre- 
ferred for  the  purpose,  since  with  a  brush  the  color 
is  apt  to  be  laid  on  too  thick  and  unevenly. 

The  inner  widths  of  the  fingers  should  be  dyed 
first.  After  the  color  has  been  applied,  the  glove 


CLEANING  AND   DYEING    GLOVES.  209 

should  be  well  rubbed  with  colored  powder,  then 
stretched  on  the  glove-tree,  and  the  upper  breadth 
of  the  hand  dyed  as  evenly  as  possible,  and  likewise 
well  rubbed  in  with  powder.  Last  of  all  the  inner 
part  of  the  palm  of  the  hand  should  be  dyed  and 
powdered.  Should  the  color  look  unequal,  retouch 
and  powder  once  more.  The  powder  equalizes  the 
color  of  its  own  volition,  as  it  is  vigorously  rubbed, 
into  the  damp  leather.  After  thoroughly  drying,  a 
second  fat  bath  of  the  same  composition  as  pre- 
viously given  may  be  applied.  While  this  is  not 
absolutely  necessary,  it  greatly  improves  the  appear- 
ance of  the  gloves.  Last  of  all  polish. 

Black  on  gloves.  The  most  common  method  of 
dyeing  leather  black  is  by  means  of  logwood.  Ap- 
ply decoction  of  logwood  of  3°  to  5°  Be.,  giving  two  or 
three  coatings,  allowing  each  coating  to  dry  before 
applying  the  next.  Then  dip  the  gloves  in  a  solu- 
tion of  green  vitriol  and  brush  with  warm  water. 
Should  the  color  not  prove  sufficiently  dark,  some 
decoction  of  fustic  or  quercitron  may  be  added  to 
the  logwood  decoction.  In  place  of  green  vitriol, 
nitrate  of  iron  may  be  used.  As  the  leather  begins 
to  dry  rub  it  with  a  little  olive  oil  and  talcum  powder 
and  press  between  flannel.  The  treatment  with  olive 
oil  and  talcum  powder  is  repeated,  and  the  glove 
allowed  to  dry  on  the  glove-tree.  No  coloring- 
matter  must  reach  the  inside  of  the  glove. 

The  bluish  tint  so  much  liked  in  black  gloves  is 
obtained  by  washing  the  dyed  article  with  ammonia. 

Brown  on  gloves  is  obtained  by  the  application  of 
14 


2IO       DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

decoctions  of  fustic,  logwood,  and  Brazil  wood  with 
some  alum ;  the  quantities  of  the  dyestuffs  to  be 
used  depend  on  the  shade  desired.  For  darkening 
the  shade  use  a  small  quantity  of  green  vitriol. 

Morocco-red  on  gloves  is  produced  by  applying 
cochineal  decoction,  to  which  a  little  tin-salt  and 
oxalic  acid  have  been  added.  A  darker  shade  is 
obtained  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  log- 
wood decoction. 

Gray  on  gloves  is  produced  by  applying  sumac  de- 
coction, and  subsequent  treatment  with  weak  solutions 
of  green  vitriol.  An  addition  of  fustic  and  logwood, 
as  well  as  fustic  and  indigo  carmine  to  the  sumac  de- 
coction gives  greenish  gray. 

If  the  seams  are  to  remain  white,  cover  them  with 
flour  paste  mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  fat. 

The  use  of  aniline  colors  for  dying  kid  gloves  is, 
however,  far  more  simple  and  cheaper  than  the  prev- 
iously described  methods. 

There  are  at  present  very  few  shades  of  colors 
which  cannot  be  produced  with  the  assistance  of 
aniline  colors,  and,  with  the  exception  of  very  special 
tones,  it  may  be  asserted  that  even  the  most  difficult 
shades  can  be  dyed  on  leather. 

However,  not  all  aniline  colors  can  be  used  for 
dyeing  leather,  many  of  them  which  are  suitable  for 
silk  and  wool  exerting  a  destructive  influence  upon 
leather. 

For  dyeing  with  aniline  colors  the  gloves  are 
smoothly  stretched  over  wooden  hands  and  first 
treated  with  a  mordant;  tannin,  sumac,  potassium 


CLEANING  AND   DYEING   GLOVES.  2  i  I 

chromate,  and  especially  ammonical  salts  being  best 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  The  mordant,  as  well  as 
the  solution  of  coloring  matter,  is  applied  with  a 
brush,  or  better  with  a  flannel  rag. 

Red  on  gloves.  According  to  the  intensity  of  shade 
desired,  which  may  be  increased  by  the  addition  of 
small  quantities  of  picric  acid,  dissolve  pure,  water- 
soluble  fuchsine  in  more  or  less  water  at  from  78° 
to  86°  F.  Without  previously  mordanting  the  gloves, 
apply  the  solution  at  the  above-mentioned  tempera- 
ture. With  leather  free  from  alum  a  perfectly  uni- 
form color  is  obtained  which  resists  subsequent 
washing  and  exposure  to  the  air. 

Violet  on  gloves.  Water-soluble  aniline-violet  is 
very  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Mix  the  solution  with 
a  small  quantity  of  sulphate  of  aluminium,  apply  it 
like  fuchsine,  and  rinse  thoroughly.  By  the  addition 
of  blue  or  red,  more  bluish  or  reddish  shades  are 
obtained.  Methyl-violet  colors  yield  the  most  beau- 
tiful shades;  however,  they  resist  for  a  short  time 
only  the  action  of  light  and  air.  To  prevent  the 
coloring  matter  from  penetrating  the  leather,  quick 
work  is  imperative. 

Blue  on  gloves.  By  pouring  water  of  86°  F.  over 
a  pure,  intense  blue,  endeavor  to  hit  a  degree  of 
dilution  at  which  a  quite  pale  color  is  produced,  and 
obtain  darker  shades  by  repeated  applications.  Ac- 
cording to  the  variety  of  aniline-blue  employed, 
mordanting  the  leather  with  ammoniacal  salts,  alum, 
etc.,  may  be  recommended ;  the  most  suitable  mor- 
dant, however,  has  to  be  ascertained  by  an  experi- 


212      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ment  on  a  small  scale.  As  a  rule,  a  small  quantity  of 
bichromate  of  potassium  suffices.  The  various  kinds 
of  alkaline-blue  are  successfully  used,  and  yield  very 
beautiful  tones,  especially  on  delicate,  fine  leather. 
To  combine  the  color  more  readily  with  the  leather, 
a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid  may  be  added  to 
the  alkaline-blue  ;  wash  thoroughly  after  dyeing,  and 
dry  at  not  too  high  a  temperature. 

Green  on  gloves.  A  very  suitable  coloring  matter 
for  this  purpose  is  methyl-green.  The  pulverulent 
article  is  used,  and  the  aqueous  solution  should  be 
made  as  concentrated  as  possible.  After  brushing 
the  glove  with  solution  of  ammonium  sulphate, 
apply  the  solution  of  coloring  matter  at  about  95° 
F.,  its  soaking  through  being  prevented  by  rapid 
operation.  Picric  acid  should  not  be  added  to  the 
solution  of  coloring  matter,  but  be  applied  to  the 
leather  before  and  after  dyeing  with  iodine-green. 

Yellow  and  brown  on  gloves.  Experiments  with 
aniline-yellow  and  brown  have  shown  that  picric  acid 
is  frequently  to  be  preferred  to  the  first,  and  dye- 
woods  to  the  latter.  Picric  acid  produces,  without 
mordant,  the  same  colors  on  leather  as  on  silk  and 
wool,  and  is  very  resistant  to  exterior  influences. 
The  color  produced  is  modified  to  green  by  aniline- 
blue,  and  to  red  by  crimson.  The  solution  to  be 
used  should  be  very  dilute,  and,  to  prevent  soaking 
through,  its  temperature  should  not  exceed  68°  F. 

Vesuvine,  nigrosine,  flavine,  and  similar  aniline 
colors  occurring  in  commerce  are,  according  to  their 
quality,  partially  suitable  and  partially  unsuitable  for 


CLEANING   AND    DYEING   GLOVES.  213 

dyeing  leathers,  so  that  an  opinion  in  general  as  to 
their  availability  cannot  be  given. 

The  basic  coaJ-tar  dyes  such  as  magenta,  safranine, 
phosphine,  etc.,  have  a  strong  affinity  for  animal  tis- 
sues, and  leather  can  be  colored  by  simply  applying 
an  aqueous  solution  of  them.  The  azo  and  acid  dye- 
stuffs  may  also  be  used  but  the  aqueous  solutions 
require  to  be  acidulated  with  some  acid,  best  with 
acetic  or  oxalic  acid. 


IX. 

GARMENT   DYEING.      ' 

This  branch  of  the  dyeing  trade  is,  of  course,  quite 
different  from  that  of  piece  dyeing.  Garment  dye- 
ing is  the  most  difficult,  the  most  troublesome,  the 
most  thankless,  and  often  the  least  remunerative  of 
all  the  departments  of  dyeing.  Unlike  the  piece- 
dyer,  the  garment  dyer  receives  the  goods  he  has  to 
operate  upon  after  they  have  been  already  dyed. 
These  have  to  be  re-dyed,  either  of  the  same  color, 
because  the  original  color  has  faded,  or  of  a  different 
color  altogether.  In  the  latter  case  stripping  is  often 
a  necessary  preliminary  operation.  The  stripping 
would  be  easy  enough,  if  that  were  all  that  was 
wanted,  but  the  garment  dyer  is  expected  to  work 
without  injury  to  the  material  of  the  fabric,  and  to 
give  the  customer  as  good  a  result  as  regards  color 
as  if  he  were  a  first-hand  dyer. 

The  first  point  is  to  keep  the  fabrics  stretched  as 
much  as  possible  during  the  whole  of  the  processes. 
Many  old  goods  tear  under  the  least  stretching, 
especially  those  which  have  been  long  exposed  to 
sunlight.  It  is,  therefore,  advisable  with  all  goods 
to  stretch  them  gently  with  the  hands  before  the 
customer.  If  they  then  rend,  the  customer,  if  reason- 
able, will  be  convinced  that  their  day  is  over.  If 
(214) 


GARMENT   DYEING.  215 

they  do  not,  it  will  be  safe  to  re-dye  them.  The 
practical  dyer  will,  however,  have  judged  by  the 
resist  of  the  fabric  the  exact  strength  of  the  fibre, 
and  if  the  stuff  is  worth  re-dyeing  he  must  judge  of 
the  dye  to  be  used  with  reference  to  this.  He  must, 
in  case  the  fibre  is  weak,  select  such  dyes  as  can  be 
used  in  baths  whereof  neither  the  temperature  nor 
the  reaction  is  sharply  marked.  At  the  same  time 
he  has  a  second  selection  to  make  even  among  these, 
as  regards  leveling  and  coloring  power.  He  has  also 
to  consider,  especially  when  a  material  has  to  be  re- 
dyed  of  the  same  color  as  at  first,  the  degree  in 
which  the  original  color  has  suffered  through  wear 
and  exposure.  It  may  be  merely  lighter.  It  may 
have  changed  in  shade.  Generally  it  is  not  only 
altered  in  shade  or  even  color,  but  is  paler.  In  this 
matter  experience  alone  is  of  any  service,  it  being 
impossible  to  give  fixed  rules. 

If  the  original  color  is  : 

White,  any  color  can  be  dyed. 

Yellow,  any  color  except  pink,  gray  and  light  blue. 

Gray,  any  color  except  pink,  pale  blue,  cream  and 
yellow. 

Lilac,  pink  and  prune,  to  pense,  dark  blue,  olive- 
green,  olive-brown,  dark  brown,  and  black. 

Pale  blue,  any  color  except  yellow,  cream,  pink 
and  gray. 

Corn  or  gensdarmes  blue,  to  navy-blue,  dark  brown, 
reddish-brown,  corinth,  medium-green,  dark  green, 
olive-green,  olive-brown,  medium-brown,  black. 

Light,  medium  or  bluish-green,  to  dark  green, 
olive-green,  olive-brown,  dark  brown,  black. 


2l6      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Dark  blue,  to  corinth,  dark  green,  olive- green, 
olive-brown,  dark  brown,  black. 

Olive-green  or  brown,  to  the  same  color,  reddish- 
brown,  dark  brown,  black. 

Dark  or  Russian  green,  to  the  same  color,  olive- 
green,  olive-brown,  reddish-brown,  corinth,  dark 
brown,  black. 

Pink,  any  color  except  yellow,  cream  and  light 
blue. 

Carmoisine,  cerise  or  ponceau,  to  red,  olive,  med- 
ium brown,  dark  brown,  dark  green,  black. 

Bordeaux,  to  the  same  color,  reddish-brown, 
corinth,  dark  brown,  black. 

Reddish-brown,  to  the  same  color,  dark  brown, 
black. 

Light  brown,  to  dark  green,  olive-green,  olive- 
brown,  reddish-brown,  bordeaux,  medium  brown, 
dark  brown,  black. 

Medium  brown,  to  the  same  color  or  black. 

Black,  to  the  same  color  only. 

DYEING  SILKS. 

Silk  garments  to  be  dyed  a  light  color  must  show 
a  white  ground,  or  the  original  color  should  be  of 
such  a  nature  that  it  can  be  removed  by  stripping  or 
washing,  or  at  least  a  clear  light  tone,  similar  to  the 
color  to  be  dyed,  should  remain  after  washing.  How- 
ever, beautiful  light  colors  can  only  be  produced 
upon  a  white  ground  and  even  then  a  few  places  may 
be  found  which  by  perspiration,  dirt  or  contact  with 
air  have  acquired  a  different  affinity  for  the  coloring 
matter. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  2  I/ 

After  washing,  and  in  dyeing  the  greatest  care  is 
required,  and  perfect  cleanliness  should  prevail.  All 
crumpling  together  of  the  articles  should  be  avoided, 
and  it  is  therefore  advisable  to  let  the  garments  re- 
main in  the  last  rinsing  water  until  dyeing  com- 
mences. For  dyeing,  copper  kettles  should  be 
avoided,  or,  if  this  cannot  be  done,  the  kettle  should 
be  very  wide,  so  that  in  handling  the  articles  they 
do  not  come  too  much  in  contact  with  the  sides  of 
the  kettle,  otherwise  copper-stains,  or  so-called  kettle- 
stains,  may  be  readily  formed.  Another  reason  for 
the  employment  of  a  wide  kettle  is,  that  by  lying 
closely  together  in  a  narrow  kettle  creases  difficult 
to  remove  are  readily  formed,  especially  in  heavy 
silk  garments. 

The  goods  to  be  dyed  are  generally  cleaned  and 
stripped  with  very  weakly  alkaline  hot  water  contain- 
ing soda  carbonate  or  ammonia,  or  with  strong  boil- 
ing soap  liquor  containing  about  12  Ibs.  of  soap  per 
10  gallons  of  water.  Soap  does  not  injure  the  silk 
fibre  ;  frequently,  however,  silk  moderately  weighted 
has  to  be  dyed,  and  in  this  case  it  tenders  during  the 
treatment.  A  small  portion  of  the  goods  to  be  dyed, 
must,  therefore,  be  tested  for  strength.  This  is  gen- 
erally done  by  folding  a  small  cutting  of  dry  material 
in  the  direction  of  both  the  warp  and  the  weft,  press- 
ing the  crease  hard  with  the  finger  nail  or  a  flat  iron, 
and  trying  its  strength  by  stretching  and  pulling. 
If  it  breaks  in  the  creases  very  great  caution  must  be 
exercised  in  dyeing.  The  test  is  still  more  thorough 
if  the  material  be  previously. boiled  for  some  time  in 
a  soap  solution. 


2l8      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER.  GARMENT    DYER. 

Damages  due  to  wear  and  exposure  of  silken  ma- 
terial may  be  comparatively  easily  remedied  by  strip- 
ping the  ground  color,  as  the  subsequent  re-dyeing 
covers  any  defects.  Less  attention  need  therefore 
be  paid  with  silk  than  with  wool  to  the  selection  of 
leveling  dyestuffs,  and  nearly  any  coloring  matter 
can  be  employed  on  silk,  though  the  acid  aniline 
colors  may  be  especially  recommended.  For  the 
production  of  deeper  full  tones,  they  may  be  com- 
bined with  indigo,  Pensee  Lake,  etc.  The  silk  fibre 
combines  with  these  coloring  matters  without  a  mor- 
dant, it  being  in  most  cases  only  necessary  to  acidu- 
late the  dye  bath  with  sufficient  sulphuric  acid  that 
its  presence  can  be  detected  by  the  taste. 

It  is  of  great  importance  that  the  dye  baths  should 
not  be  used  too  hot,  and  it  is  not  necessary  to  raise 
the  temperature  of  the  bath  if  the  coloring  matter 
has  been  fully  and  uniformly  absorbed  by  the  articles. 

i.  Black  on  silk.  a.  Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  2 
Ibs.  of  Glauber's  salt,  4  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  ^  Ib. 
Acid  Black  B  B,  I  oz.  Acid  Green  and  ^  oz.  Fast 
Yellow  F  Y,  working  in  this  bath  at  a  boil  to  shade. 
This  yields  a  very  fine  black,  the  tone  of  which  may 
be  varied  by  using  more  or  less  of  the  green  and 
yellow. 

b.  Prepare  a  bath  with  8  ozs.  Naphthol  Black  B,  I 
oz.  Naphthol  Green  B,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  4  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid.     Work  the  garments  in  this  bath  at 
the  boil  for  one  to  I  */£  hours,  then  lift,  wash  and  dry. 

c.  Steep  the  garments  for  half  an  hour  in  a  nitrate 
of  iron  bath  at  8°  Be.,  then  take  them  out  and  expose 


GARMENT   DYEING.  2IQ 

them  to  the  air  for  half  an  hour.  Now  rinse  thor- 
oughly, and  prepare  a  bath  which  contains  the  de- 
coction of  I  y2  Ibs.  of  fustic  or  of  I  Ib.  quercitron. 
Work  the  garments  in  this  bath  at  from  100°  to  140° 
F.  for  half  an  hour.  Then  lift  them  and  dye  in  a 
logwood  bath  of  4  Ibs.  of  logwood,  from  warm  to  hot. 
Rinse  and  treat  with  chlorine,  the  object  of  this  be- 
ing to  remove  an  excess  of  coloring  matter.  The 
chlorine  solution  (Javelle  water)  is  prepared  as  fol- 
lows:  Dissolve  10  Ibs.  of  chloride  of  lime  and  20 
Ibs.  of  soda  in  75  quarts  of  hot  water  in  a  wooden 
vessel.  Let  the  solution  clarify  for  about  an  hour 
and  keep  the  clear  solution  in  well-stoppered  carboys. 
For  treating  the  dyed  garments  with  chlorine,  add 
to  a  water-bath  of  from  145°  to  167°  F.  about  I  pint 
to  i  quart  of  the  chlorine  solution.  Work  the  gar- 
ments in  this  bath  until  they  appear  deep  black  when 
drawn  through  a  clean  cold  water  bath.  Then  rinse 
several  times,  allow  them  to  stand  in  a  water  bath  for 
some  time,  and  dry. 

d.  Steep  the  silk  over  night  in  a  bath  of  nitrate  of 
iron  at  16°  Be.,  lift,  drain,  and  hang  exposed  to  the 
air  for  two  hours ;  then  dye  in  a  bath  prepared  from 
5  Ibs.  logwood,  y±  Ib.  turmeric  and  i*/2  ozs.  verdigris. 
Enter  the  goods  at  a  temperature  of  100°  F.,  raise 
the  heat  slowly  to  the  boil,  work  to  shade,  lift,  rinse, 
and  dry. 

e.  For  20  Ibs.  weight  of  silk  goods,  prepare  a  dye 
bath  with   18  ozs.   Naphthylamine   Black  S.   y2   oz. 
Tropaeoline   oo,    2   Ibs.    Glauber's   salt,   and  4  ozs. 
acetic  acid. 


220   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

The  Naphthylamine  Blacks  4  B  and  6  B  are  es- 
pecially well  suited  for  black  on  silk.  Naphthylamine 
Blacks  D,  R,  4  B,  or  Napthyl  Blue-black  N,  shaded 
with  Acid  Green  may  also  be  used ;  the  saddening  is 
done  with  Indian  yellow  or  orange. 

2.  Dark  brown  on  silk.     a.  'For  5   Ibs.  weight  of 
silk  goods,  prepare  a  bath  acidulated  with  3^  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid  and  containing  in  solution  3^  ozs. 
Aniline  Orange  No.  2  (medium)  and  8^  ozs.  indigo 
carmine.     Enter  the  goods  in  this  bath,  work  them 
constantly  and  gradually   raise  the  temperature  to 
190°   F.,   and  eventually  to   gentle   boiling.     Then 
finish  according  to  shade  desired   with  Aniline  fast 
Brown,  Pensee  Lake,  and  Azo-yellow.     Rinse. 

b.  Work  the  garments  for  three  hours  at  a  hand- 
heat  in  a  bath  of  10  ozs.  cutch  and  I  oz.  bluestone. 
Then  rinse  and  treat  at  about  150°  F.  in  a  bath  con- 
taining i  oz.  bichromate  of  potash,  work  for  one  hour, 
then  rinse  and  pass  into  a  bath  of  nitrate  of  iron  at 
5°  to  6°  Be.,  used  cold.  Allow  the  garments  to  steep 
in  this  bath  for  two  hours ;  then  take  them  out,  rinse 
and  dye  in  a  new  bath  containing  ^  oz.  Fast  Brown, 
y%  oz.  Acid  Blue  4  S  and  I  oz.  acetic  acid,  using  the 
bath  at  the  boil.  Work  to  shade,  then  lift,  ri  nse  and 
dry. 

3.  Coffee-brown  on  silk  (5  Ibs. ).     Prepare  a  bath 
of  5  Ibs.  turmeric,  ]4  lb.  archil  extract,  ^  Ib.  indigo- 
carmine,  5    ozs.    sulphuric    acid,   and    10  ozs,  alum. 
When  all  is  dissolved  enter  the  garments  at  145°  F. 
Dye.  with  thorough  working,  until  the  bath  has  ac- 
quired a  temperature  of   190°  F.,  though  eventually 


GARMENT   DYEING.  22 1 

it  may  also  be  brought  to   boiling.     Then  take  out 
and  rinse. 

Coffee-brown  may  also  be  dyed  according  to  either 
of  the  directions  given  for  dark  brown,  it  being  only 
necessary  to  increase  the  quantity  of  the  yellow 
coloring  matter. 

4.  Tobacco-brown  on  silk  (5  Ibs.).     Dye  the  silk 
in  a  bath  which  besides  2^  ozs.  sulphuric  acid  and 
7  ozs.  alum,  contains  2^4,   ozs.  Azo-yellow,  I   oz.  of 
Orange  No.  2  (medium),  and  2^  ozs.  of  Pensee  Lake 
in  solution.     Enter  warm,  and   gradually  heat,  with 
constant  handling,  to  boiling.     Rinse. 

5.  Gold  on  silk  (5  Ids.},  a.  Dissolve  3^  ozs.  Azo- 
yellow,  y2  oz.  Orange  No.  2  (medium),  f  oz,  Pensee 
Lake,  5^  ozs.  alum,  and  3^  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  and 
dye  the   silk   in   the   bath  heated   to  from   145°  to 
200°  F. 

b.  Boil  in  a  water  bath  3  Ibs.  turmeric,  f  oz. 
archil  extract,  ^  oz.  sulphate  of  indigo,  14  ozs.  alum, 
and  i  y±  ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  Allow  the  bath  to  cool 
to  about  167°  F.,  enter  the  garments  and  work  them 
until  the  dye  has  been  uniformly  absorbed  and  the 
temperature  of  the  bath  raised  to  200°  F.  Then  take 
out  and  rinse. 

6.  Bordeaux  red  on  silk.  (5  Ibs.}.  a.  Prepare  a  bath 
which  contains  the  following  in  solution:  4^  ozs.  of 
sulphuric   acid,   2l/2    ozs.  Acid   Fuchsine,    1 3^   ozs. 
Fast  Red,    l/2   oz.  indigo-carmine.     Enter  the   gar- 
ments at  145°  and  work  them  for  about  half  an  hour 
up  to  boiling,  when  they  are  finished. 

b.  Dissolve  i       ozs.  each  of  Aniline-bordeaux  B 


222      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

and  Fast  Red,  X  oz-  of  Acid-Violet  6B,  3^  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid,  and  8  ozs.  alum.  Enter  the  garments, 
etc.,  at  145°  F.,  and  dye,  with  thorough  working  up 
to  200°  F. 

c.  Prepare  a  bath  containing  2>  ozs.  Orange  extra, 
8  ozs.  Glauber's  salt  and  I  oz.  sulphuric  acid,  adding 
a  little  Acid  Magenta  to  shade. 

7.  Scarlet  on  silk.  a.  Prepare  a  bath  containing  2 
ozs.  Scarlet  R  4,  8  ozs.   Glauber's  salt  and   ^   oz. 
sulphuric  acid.     Dye  in  the  boiling  bath.     Various 
shades  of  scarlet  can  be  dyed  by  using  the  2  R,  3  R, 
or  oo  Scarlets. 

b.  Dissolve  8  ozs  saccharic  acid,  I  oz.  sulphuric 
acid  and  I  ^  ozs.  Ponceau  G.  Enter  the  garments 
at  145°  F.  and  dye,  working  them  thoroughly,  until 
the  bath  has  acquired  a  temperature  of  200°  F. 

8.  Crimson  on  silk.  Prepare  a  bath  containing  8 
ozs.  Glauber's  salt,  I   oz.  sulphuric  acid,  and   I   oz. 
Azo  Carmine,  aud  dye  at  the  boil.     The  shade  of 
crimson   thus   obtained  is  beautiful,   and   is  fast  to 
washing  and  light. 

9.  Cherry  red  on  silk.  Prepare  a  bath  with   I   oz. 
sulphuric  acid,  I    oz.  Acid  Magenta,  I J^  ozs.  Fast 
Red  A,  YZ   oz.  indigo  extract,  and  dye  at  the  boil. 

For  bright  scarlets,  the  brilliant  Croceines  E.  B,  2 
B,  M,  3  B,  5  B,  7  B,  9  B  and  Croceine  A  Z  may  be 
used,  as  well  as  E.  C,  Brilliant  Scarlet  4  R,  and 
Crystal  Scarlet,  6  R. 

For  deeper  bluish  reds:  Rocceline,  Azo  Rubine  A, 
Azo  Red  A,  Azo  Orseille  2  B,  Brilliant  Cochineal  2 
R  and  4  R,  Bordeaux  B  L,  Lanafuchsine  S  B,  S  G. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  223 

10.  Cream  on  silk.  Add   to  a  soap  bath  a  little 
Phosphine,  or  New  Phosphine  G,  raise  the  tempera- 
ture to  the  boil,  enter  the  goods  and  work  for  15  mi- 
nutes ;  then  lift,  wash,  and  dry.    It  takes  but  little  of 
any  of  these  dye  stuffs  to  produce  a  cream  and  care 
must  be  exercised  in  making  the  addition  to  the  bath, 
otherwise  the  shade  of  cream  will  come  out  too  dark. 

1 1 .  Rose  color  on  silk.  a.     Dye  the  garments  in  a 
neutral  bath  of  122°  F.,  containing  2^  to  8  drachms 
of  Diamond  Fuchsine  Ia. 

b.  For  a  deep  shade  use:  3  ozs.  Violamine  A  2  R, 
I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  This 
is  a  strong  bluish  shade  of  rose;  by  using  Violamine 
G  a  yellowish  rose  can  be  dyed.  These  shades  are 
quite  fast  to  light. 

12.  Salmon  rose  on  silk.  For  10  Ibs.  of  goods  pre- 
pare a  bath   with    ^   oz.  Lanafuchsine  S  B,  ^  oz. 
Fast  Yellow  S.  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  2  ozs.  acetic 
acid. 

13.  Carailonsilk.  ($lbs.).  Pass  the  articles  through 
a  saccharic  acid  bath,  and  dye  in  a  neutral  bath  at 
from   120°  to    167°  F.,  with   I    oz.  each  of  Eosine 
(yellowish)  and  Pale  Yellow. 

14.  Pale  blue,  del  on  silk.  (5  Ibs.)   a.    Work  the 
silk  in  a  clean  bath,  to  which  4^  drachms  of  water- 
soluble,  superfine  Aniline  Pale  Blue  have  been  added, 
for  y±  hour  at  190°  F.     Then  take  it  out  and  add  to 
the  bath  2^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid.    Now  return  the 
articles  to  the  bath,  and  after  working  them  for  ^ 
hour,  take  them  out  and   draw  them  through  a  cold 
water-bath. 


224      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

b.  Alkaline  blue.  Dissolve  in  a  bath  i)^  ozs.  of 
Alkaline  Blue  6  B,  and  8  ozs.  of  borax  or  10  ozs.  of 
soda.  Enter  the  garments,  etc.,  at  100°  F.,  and  while 
thoroughly  working  them,  heat  the  bath  to  167°  F. 
Then  take  them  out  and  prepare  a  fresh  cold  bath, 
to  which  add  5}^  ozs.  of  sulphuric  acid.  In  this  bath 
work  the  silk  for  ^  hour,  take  out  and  rinse. 

15.  Navy  blue  on  silk.  a.  For  5  Ibs.  of  goods  pre- 
pare a  bath  containing  3^  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  8  ozs. 
alum,    ^y2   ozs.    indigo-carmine,    and   8^   drachms 
Marine-blue  Ia.     Dye  the  garments,  etc.,  in  this  bath 
at  190°  F.,.take  them  out  and  add  to  the  bath  35^ 
ozs.  Pensee   Lake  and   8^    drachms   Marine  Blue. 
Dye,  heating  up  to  the  boiling  point,  until  the  color- 
ing matter  has  been  uniformly  absorbed. 

For  a  navy-blue  with  a  less  reddish  tinge  (admiral- 
blue)  use  less  Aniline  Marine-blue  and  more  indigo- 
carmine. 

b.  Make  a  bath  containing  9  ozs.  Cotton  Blue  R, 
cone.,  9  ozs.  Nigrosine  No.  I,  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt, 
and  5  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

For  pale  blue  and  blue  the  following  dyestuffs  are 
useful :  Cyanole  extra  F  F,  2  B,  the  various  brands 
of  Soluble  Blues,  and  further  the  Alkaline  Blues. 
For  peacock,  navy  and  dark  blues  the  same  dyestuffs 
may  be  used  if  shaded  or  darkened  with  Cyanole 
Green,  Acid  Green,  Naphthol  Blue  Black,  Naphthol 
Black,  Naphtholamine  Black  4  B,  according  to  require- 
ments. 

1 6.  Heliotrope  on  silk  (5  Ibs.).     Dye  in  a  bath  of 
2^/2   ozs.   sulphuric  acid,   5^  drachms  Acid  Violet 


GARMENT   DYEING.  225 

6  B,  and  8^  drachms  Acid  Violet  R  up  to  16;°  F. 
According  to  whether  the  heliotrope  is  to  be  bluish 
or  reddish,  use  a  larger  quantity  of  the  first  or  the 
latter  coloring  matter.  If  a  dull  shade  is  desired, 
add  Orange  or  Azo-yellow. 

17.  Prune  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.  of  goods  use  a  bath 
containing    3^    ozs.    sulphuric    acid,   8^    drachms 
Genuine  Red,  and  i^  ozs.  Acid  Violet  6  B. 

Dye  according  to  directions  given  under  16,  and 
shade  according  to  sample;  for  duller  tones  with 
Orange,  for  clear  tones  with  Acid  Fuchsine  and  Acid 
Violet. 

1 8.  Silver  gray  on  silk.     a.  For  5  Ibs.   of  goods 
dissolve  in   the   bath    i^    ozs.  sulphuric   acid,   i^ 
drachms   Acid  Violet  R,  and   8}^   drachms  Aniline 
Gray  superfine  extra.     Dye  at  from  167°  to  195°  F. 

b.  Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  ^  oz.  Naphthol  Black 
B,  or  y2  oz.  Acid  Black  S,  8  ozs.  Glauber's  salt  and 
I  oz.  sulphuric  acid.  Work  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

19.  Gray  on  silk.     a.  For  5  Ibs.  of  goods  prepare 
a  bath  containing  2^   ozs.  sulphuric   acid  and   i^ 
ozs.  Aniline  Gray  extra  fine.     Dye  at   195°  F.  and 
eventually  shade  with  a  little  Orange  or  Fast  Brown. 

b.  Move  the  articles  for  10  minutes  in  a  cold  bath 
which  contains  as  a  mordant  I  oz.  nitrate  of  iron  and 
2^/2  drachms  of  tin-salt.  Rinse  thoroughly  and  dye 
in  a  bath  of  167°  F.,  to  which  a  decoction  of  8  ozs. 
of  logwood  has  been  added. 

20.  Wood  gray  on  silk.     Steep  the  goods  for  half 
an  hour  in  a  lukewarm  bath  of  alum  at  i°  to  2°  Be., 
then  lift  them  and  add   3  ozs.  copperas  to  the  bath. 

15 


226      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Re-enter  the  goods  and  turn  them  over  for  15 
minutes,  lift,  rinse  and  dye  in  a  bath  made  from  4 
ozs.  logwood  extract  and  2  ozs.  sapan  wood  extract, 
working  at  about  140°  F.  to  shade. 

For  grays  the  various  brands  of  Induline,  Nigro- 
sine  and  Aniline  Gray  may  be  used,  which  may  be 
shaded  as  desired  with  Orange,  Indian  Yellow  or 
Lanafuchsine. 

21.  Vesuve,  dull  fiery  tones  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.  of 
goods  prepare  the  bath  with  3^  ozs.  sulphuric  acid 
and  solutions  of  1^  ozs.  Orange  No.  2  (medium), -5 
ozs.  Ponceau  3  R,  and    14  drachms  each  of   indigo- 
carmine  (or  Pensee  Lake)  and  Azo-yellow.     Dye  up 
nearly  to  boiling.     For  Orange  and  Ponceau   3  R, 
Ponceau  G,  or  Brilliant  Ponceau  may  be  substituted. 

22.  Bright  green  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.  of  goods  pre- 
pare a  bath   containing  Azo-yellow    I  ^  ozs.,  Acid 
Green    14  drachms,  sulphuric    acid  2%   ozs.     Dye 
until  the  green  has  been  uniformly  absorbed,  and 
finally  boil  gently  for  a  short  time. 

23.  Pea-green   on  silk.     For  5   Ibs.  of  goods  pre- 
pare  a  bath   with    ^  Ib.   Fast  Yellow  S,   i^    ozs. 
Cyanole  extra,  ^  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  2  ozs.  acetic 
acid.     Work  at  the  boil. 

24.  Green  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.   of  goods.     Mor- 
dant the  garments  in  the  solution  of  2  Ibs.  alum  for 
24  hours.     Then  rinse  and  dye  at  a  hand-heat  in  the 
dyer's  weed-bath.     When   the  garments  show  a  full 
yellow  color  take  them  out  and   add  to  the  bath  8 
ozs.    indigo-carmine.     Return   the  garments  to  the 
bath  and  work  them  till   the  bath   boils ;   then  take 
them  out  and  dry. 


GARMENT  DYEING.  227 

25.  Dull  yellow- green  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.  of  goods 
prepare   a   bath  with   sulphuric   acid   3^  ozs.,  Acid 
Green  i^  ozs.,  Azo-yellow  I  ^  ozs.,  Orange  G  6^ 
drachms,    Aniline    Gray,  extra  superfine,    I  ^    ozs. 
Dye  the  goods  in  the  bath  till  they  appear  uniformly 
colored ;   finally  boil  gently  for  a  short  time. 

26.  Moss  green  on  silk.     Make  the  dye  bath  for  5 
Ibs.  of  goods  by  dissolving  25^   ozs.  sulphuric  acid, 
I  y^  ozs.  Acid  Green,  i  oz.  Azo-yellow,  and  8  drachms 
Orange  G.     Dye  up  to  boiling. 

27.  Olive  on  silk.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  3 
ozs.  Acid  Green,  cone.,  3  ozs.  Nigrosine  II,  I  Ib.  Glau- 
ber's salt  and  4  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

Very  bright  greens  can  be  produced  with  Acid 
Green,  extra  cone.  B  and  5  G.  For  dark  greens, 
very  useful  dyestuffs  besides  the  Acid  Greens  are: 
Fast  Acid  Green  B,  B  N,  Cyanole  Green  B,  6  G  S, 
shaded  with  Solid  Blue  R,  or  Naphthol  Blue-black 
and  Indian  Yellow  G,  or  Acid  Yellow  A  T.  Olive 
shades  are  produced  in  a  similar  way  and  shaded 
with  Orange  extract  or  some  red  dyestuffs. 

28.  Cinnamon-brown  on  silk.     For  5  Ibs.  of  goods  : 
Sulphuric  acid  2^  ozs.  Azo-yellow  I  oz..  Fast  Brown 
5^  drachms,  indigo-carmine  6^  drachms.     Dye  up 
to  the  boiling  point. 

29.  Yellow  on  silk    a.  For  5  Ibs.  of  goods :   Sul- 
phuric acid  2^  ozs.  Azo-yellow  14  drachms.     Dye 
to  200°  F. 

b.  Make  a  bath  with  I  ^  ozs.  oxyphenine  and  4 
ozs.  phosphate  of  soda.  Work  the  garments  in  this 
bath  at  the  boil  to  shade  ;  then  lift,  wash  and  dry. 


228      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

30.  Greenish  yellow  on  silk.    Prepare  a  dye  bath 
with  2  ozs.  thioflavine  T,  I   oz.  acetic  acid,  and  suf- 
ficient soap.      Work  the  garments  in  the  bath  at  the 
boil  to  shade,  then  pass  them  through  a  weak  acetic 
acid  bath  to  brighten  the  shade,  rinse  and  dry. 

31.  Orange  on  silk.     a.  Make  a  bath  with   I  oz. 
Tartrazine,  ^  oz.  sulphuric  acid  and  4  ozs.  Glauber's 
salt.     Work  at  the  boil. 

b.  Prepare  a  bath  with  i  oz  Orange  X,  ^  oz. 
sulphuric  acid,  and  4  ozs.  Glauber's  salt,  working  at 
the  boil  to  shade. 

Very  pure  yellows  may  be  obtained  with  Naphthol 
Yellow  S,  or  Acid  Yellow  A  T,  and  richer  but  redder 
shades  with  Indian-yellow  G  R,  Tropaeoline  G  and 
O  O.  ¥  or  pure  orange  shades  the  Orange  extra  R 
and  G  G  brands,  and  also  Croceine  Orange  E  N  may 
be  employed. 

32.  Mauve  on  silk.    Dye  in  a  bath  which  contains 
ytt  oz.  Violet  4  B,  ^  oz.  Magenta,  and  2  ozs.  Glauber's 
salt.    Work  at  about  180°  F.  to  shade,  then  take  out, 
rinse   and   dry.     By  using    different   brands   of  the 
Violet  a  variety  of  shades  of  mauve  from  a  blue  to  a 
red  may  be  dyed. 

33.  Fancy  colors  and  all  other  intermediate  tones. 
As  fancy  colors,  may  be  designated  all  tones  which 
deviate  from  the  regular  ones.     They  are  produced 
as  follows  :    As  ground  colors  in  dyeing,  red,  yellow, 
and  blue  are  used,  they  being  the  so-called  comple- 
mentary colors  of  which  all  other  tones  consist. 

Now  according  to  the  preponderance  of  one  of 
these  ground-tones  in  the  desired  color,  the  articles 
are  first  dyed  with  it  and  shaded  with  the  others. 


GARMENT    DYEING.  22Q 

As  materials  for  the  ground-tones  may  be  recom- 
mended, for  yellow;  Azo-yellow,  Martin's  yellow, 
turmeric;  for  red:  Fast  red,  Ponceau,  Fast  Brown, 
and  also  Acid  Fuchsine ;  for  yellow  and  red  together : 
Orange;  for£/z^:  Indigo-carmine,  Pensee  Lake,  or 
Aniline  blue,  Marine-blue  ;  for  blue  and  red  together : 
Aniline-Acid  Violet.  For  the  aniline  colors  the  bath 
is  acidulated  with  sulphuric  acid,  and  for  the  other 
coloring-matters  with  it  and  alum. 

Genuine  velvet  is  dyed  in  the  same  dye-baths  used 
for  silk  garments,  but  greater  care  is  required  in  the 
treatment.  Baste  around  the  separate  pieces  a  strip 
of  stuff  two  fingers  wide,  by  which  the  velvet  is 
worked  during  the  entire  operation.  When  entering 
the  articles  in  the  bath,  place  the  velvet  side  down  so 
that  in  pushing  down  the  wrong  side  receives  the 
pressure  of  the  hand  or  stick.  After  dyeing,  im- 
mediately apply  to  the  wrong  side  a  solution  of  gum 
or  gelatine,  and  dry.  As  regards  the  rest,  it  is  treated 
like  cleaned  velvet. 

DYEING   WOOL   AND    SILK    (GLORIA)    FABRICS. 

Gloria  is  woven  from  the  two  fibres — wool  and 
silk — of  a  fine  texture  so  that  it  can  be  used  in  the 
place  of  a  silk  fabric.  It  is  mostly  dyed  with  the 
acid  dyes  and  these,  as  a  rule,  dye  the  wool  more 
strongly  than  the  silk  when  applied  at  boiling  heat, 
the  converse  being  the  case  at  low  and  medium  tern 
peratures. 

The  following  dyes  act  equally  on  wool  and  silk  at 
boiling  heat;  Fast  Green,  Bluish  mark  (By.)  Patent 


230      DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Blue,  Alkali  Blue,  Alkali  Violet,  Navy  Blue, 
B  (B.  A.  S.  F.),  Acid  Violet  6  B  N  (By.),  Fast  Acid 
Violet  A  2  R  and  10  B  (M.  L.  Br.  and  By.),  Bengal 
Rose  (dyed  with  acetic  acid),  Anthracite  Black  (C.), 
Naphthylamine  Black  D  (C.),  etc.  The  following 
have  a  rather  stronger  affinity  for  wool :  Light  Green 
S,  Wool  Green  (B.  A.  S.  F.),  the  Acid  Orange  dyes, 
like  Orange  I  I,  a  few  Ponceaus,  like  Palatine  Scarlet 
(B.  A.  S.  F.),  Brilliant  Croceine  (C.),  etc. 

On  the  basis  of  their  affinity  for  silk  and  wool,  the 
acid  dyes  may  be  divided  into  three  groups,  those 
given  above  as  having  an  almost  identical  affinity  for 
both  fibres  being  taken  as  the  first  group.  To  the 
second  group  belong  such  dyes  as  chiefly  dye  wool- 
when  applied  at  boiling  heat,  e.  g.,  Acid  Green, 
extra  cone.  (C.),  Tartrazine,  Orange  G,  a  few  Pon- 
ceaus, as  mark  2  R  (M.  L.  Br.),  Indigo-carmine 
Cyanine  (M.  L.  Br.),  etc.  Finally  the  third  group 
comprises  the  dyes  having  more  affinity  for  silk  than 
for  wool  at  medium  and  low  temperatures :  Azo- 
carmine  (B.  A.  S.  F.),  Acid  Violet  N  (M.  L.  Br.). 
Fast  Acid  Blue  B  (By.),  Water  Blue,  etc.,  as  also 
the  majority  of  the  basic  dyes  such  as  Methyl  Green, 
Auramine,  Rhodamine,  etc. 

The  best  means  of  dyeing  wool  and  -silk  to  shade 
is  by  using  the  dyes  of  Group  I,  unless  prevented  by 
other  reasons  such  as  their  equalizing  properties, 
suitability  for  combinations,  etc.  The  mode  of  ap- 
plication is  as  follows:  The  bath  is  set  with  about  10 
per  cent,  of  "  tartar  preparation,"  bisulphate,  and  one- 
half  the  necessary  quantity  of  dye,  the  goods  being 


GARMENT   DYEING.  231 

then  entered,  and  the  bath  raised  to  boiling  heat  as 
quickly  as  the  equalizing  properties  of  the  dye  per- 
mit, boiling  being  continued  until  the  wool  appears 
sufficiently  shaded.  The  silk  will,  as  a  rule,  be  less 
deep  in  color;  consequently  after  boiling  the  bath 
down  to  between  113°  and  122°  F.,  the  rest  of  the 
dye  is  added,  and  the  operation  continued  in  the 
cooling  bath  until  the  silk  has  been  properly  dyed. 
If,  however,  this  result  fails  to  ensue,  recourse  must 
be  had  to  a  suitable  dye  of  the  third  group.  In  this 
manner  a  light  yellow  may  be  obtained  with  azo- 
flavine,  which,  however,  turns  dirty  in  dark  shades; 
a  dark  yellow  and  orange,  with  Orange  I  I;  red  with 
Azocarmine,  Magdala  red,  or  a  Ponceau  ;  pale  blue 
with  Patent  Blue;  dark  blue  with  Acid  Violet  6  B  N, 
and  a  bluish  fast  green ;  black  with  Anthracite  Black, 
deepened  with  Orange  and  a  basic  green  at  low  tem- 
perature. For  mode  colors,  use  is  preferably  made 
of  Azocarmine,  Patent  Blue  and  Azoflavine. 

To  produce  "  shot "  effects  the  following  pro- 
cedure is  adopted  :  The  wool  is  dyed  first  with  a  dye 
of  the  second  group,  at  boiling  heat;  the  small 
amount  of  dye  that  has  become  fixed  on  the  fibre  of 
the  silk  is  then  removed  by  boiling  with  water,  soap, 
or  ammonium  acetate,  and  the  silk  afterwards  dyed 
in  a  third  bath  containing  a  dye  of  the  third  group, 
the  bath  being  concentrated  and  cold,  or,  at  most, 
lukewarm.  Red,  for  instance,  is  produced  on  the 
wool  by  the  aid  of  Ponceau  2  R,  and  the  silk  dyed 
green  with  Methyl  Green  and  Auramine;  or  the 
wool  dyed  green  with  Acid  Green  extra  cone.,  the 
silk  red  with  Rhodamine,  etc. 


232      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

DYEING  WOOLEN   GARMENTS   AND   FABRICS. 

The  various  methods  which  are  used  for  dyeing 
wool  have,  of  course,  underlying  them  certain  princi- 
ples on  which  they  are  based,  and  on  the  observance 
of  which  much  of  the  success  of  the  process  depends. 
Wool  must  be  treated  differently  from  cotton,  since 
a  process  of  dyeing  which  gives  good  results  with 
the  latter  fibre  would  lead  to  nothing  but  dis- 
astrous effects  with  wool  or  silk.  On  the  other  hand 
processes  are  used  in  the  dyeing  of  wool  which  could 
not  be  possibly  used  for  cotton  on  account  of  the 
very  different  properties  of  the  fibre. 

Without  entering  too  much  into  detail  it  may  be 
said  broadly  that  the  application  of  the  various  color- 
ing matters  to  wool  is  governed  by  three  principles, 
namely:  Dyeing  with  acid  dyestuffs,  with  basic  dye- 
stuffs,  and  dyeing  with  mordant  dyes. 

The  application  of  the  acid  dyestuffs  is  effected  in 
the  presence  of  acids  or  salts,  viz.,  sulphuric  acid, 
sodium  bisulphate,  Glauber's  salt,  alum,  acetic  acid, 
ammonium  acetate,  or  ammonium  oxalate.  The 
object  of  these  acid  adjuncts  is  to  neutralize  the 
calcium  bicarbonate  in  the  dye  water,  liberate  the 
dye  acid,  and  finally  to  diminish  the  solubility  of  the 
latter  in  water,  thus  facilitating  its  absorption  by  the 
fibre  and  helping  the  bath  to  "  draw."  The  stronger 
the  acid  the  better  and  more  quickly  is  the  dye  ab- 
sorbed by  the  wool.  An  equally  important  role  is 
played  by  Glauber's  salt  which  acts  as  a  regulator  to 
ensue  uniform  absorption  of  the  dye  by  checking  the 
rate  of  absorption. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  233 

The  usual  method  of  dyeing  wool  with  acid  dyes 
is  as  follows :  The  bath  is  charged  with  2  to  4  per 
cent,  of  sulphuric  acid,  10  per  cent,  of  Glauber's  salt 
and  the  solution  of  dyestuff,  the  goods  being  entered 
at  a  lukewarm  or  medium  temperature,  and  gradually 
raised  to  boiling,  which  is  maintained  for  one  hour 
to  one  and  a  quarter.  This  prolonged  boiling  is  es- 
sential for  securing  the  equalization  of  the  dye, 
though  some  dyes,  such  as  indigo- carmine,  dye  well 
at  somewhat  lower  temperature.  Only  in  the  case 
of  light  shades  is  three-quarters  of  an  hour  boiling 
sufficient;  and  here  it  is  advisable  for  better  equali- 
zation to  dye  with  less  acid  and  more  Glauber's  salt. 

The  basic  dyestuffs  are  taken  up  by  wool  in  a  very 
uniform  manner  without  the  use  of  any  adjuncts  in 
the  dye  bath,  and  the  absorption  begins  at  a  tem- 
perature of  86°  to  104°  F.  Hard  water  should  be 
corrected  with  acetic  acid  until  the  reaction  is  slightly 
acid.  The  goods  are  entered  lukewarm,  and  the 
operation  is  continued  for  about  an  hour,  the  tem- 
perature not  being  allowed  to  exceed  about  176°  F., 
Dyeings  performed  at  boiling  heat  are  less  brilliant 
in  color.  Nevertheless  gentle  boiling  is  admissible 
in  the  case  of  dark  shades,  and  of  a  few  dyes  of  this 
class,  such  as  Methyl  Violet  Auramine  must  be 
dyed  in  a  neutral  bath. 

The  brightest  colors  are  obtained  by  adding  a 
little  Marseilles  soap  to  the  neutral  dye  bath  and 
avoiding  higher  temperatures,  about  122°  F.  being 
the  limit.  In  this  case,  however,  in  order  to  avoid 
stains,  the  water  must  first  be  boiled  with  soap  and 
the  resulting  scum  removed. 


2^4   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

In  dyeing  with  mordant  dyes  the  nature  of  the  bath 
water  plays  an  important  part,  and  therefore  the 
water  used  must  have  been  corrected  with  acetic 
acid ;  otherwise  a  partial  precipitation  of  the  color,  in 
the  form  of  lime  and  magnesia  lakes,  may  occur.  In 
some  cases  organic  impurities  have  an  unfavorable 
effect,  e.g.  in  presence  of  Cochineal  or  Alizarine  Blue. 

The  mordants  used  are  various  compounds  of 
chrome,  iron,  and  alumina.  By  the  operation  of 
mordanting,  a  deposit  of  oxide  of  the  metal  is  formed 
on  the  fibre ;  and  this,  combining  with  the  coloring 
matter,  forms  with  it  an  insoluble  colored  body  on 
the  fabric,  and  so  dyes  it.  The  particular  color  thus 
developed  on  the  fibre  depends  not  only  upon  the 
coloring  matter,  but  also  upon  the  mordant  which  is 
used,  Alizarine,  for  instance,  dyed  on  an  alumina 
mordant  develops  a  scarlet,  on  a  chrome  mordant,  a 
dark  red.  on  an  iron  mordant  a  dark  violet.  The 
mordanting  is  usually  done  before  the  dyeing,  but  it 
may  be  done  after  the  dyeing ;  much  depends  upon 
the  character  of  the  dyestuff  which  is  used.  Some 
coloring  matters  such  as  Alizarine  and  Gambine, 
have  but  little  affinity  for  the  fibre  and  will  not  dye 
unmordanted  wool.  On  the  other  hand  such  dye- 
stuffs  as  logwood,  fustic,  and  some  of  the  coal-tar 
colors  have  considerable  affinity  for  the  fibre  and 
may  be  first  applied  and  then  fixed  by  treatment 
with  the  mordant.  In  some  cases  the  dyeing  and 
mordanting  may  be  effected  in  one  bath.  This 
method  has  the  advantage  of  being  quicker,  more 
simple,  and  consequently  cheaper,  but  in  most  cases 


GARMENT   DYEING.  235 

the  dyeings  are  not  so  full  or  not  so  well  fixed  as 
with  goods  previously  mordanted. 

Preparing  woolen  garments  for  dyeing.  Proper 
cleaning  is  the  prime  requisite  for  successful  dyeing. 
It  is  impossible  to  dye  uniformly  or  of  a  good  color 
on  fabrics  which  are  at  all  dirty.  On  goods  which 
are  not  scrupulously  clean  the  best  dyes,  even  in  the 
hands  of  the  most  skillful  dyer,  can  but  give  second- 
rate  results,  while  it  is  a  matter  of  experience  that 
when  the  garments  are  properly  cleaned  before  dye- 
ing, a  second-rate  workman  can  get  passable  results 
with  dyes  which  are  by  no  means  the  best  of  their 
kind  upon  the  market. 

The  first  step  to  be  done  with  the  garments  is  to 
sort  them  into  four  classes,  the  dirtier  dark-colored 
ones  being  put  separate  from  the  cleaner  dark- 
colored  ones,  and  the  same  with  those  of  lighter 
shades.  White  goods  are  cleaned  by  soaking  for 
four  to  six  hours  in  a  warm  soap  bath  containing  a 
little  ammonia. 

In  any  case  stains  are  first  rubbed  over  with  soap, 
and  the  garments  are  then  worked  for  an  hour  in  a 
carbonate  of  soda  bath  of  from  I  to  I  J^  per  cent, 
strength,  and  at  a  temperature  of  about  120°  F. 
The  cleaner  goods  are  treated  first,  and  one  soaking 
will  probably  suffice,  and  will  leave  a  bath  which  can 
be  used  for  the  first  soaking  of  the  dirty  garments. 
All  the  goods  are  rinsed — first  in  very  weak  soda 
water,  then  in  warm,  and  finally  in  cold  water.  For 
very  dirty  garments  a  soap  washing  may  be  necessary 
before  the  treatment  with  soda.  Hangings  and  up- 


236      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

holstery  must  be  first  worked  in  cold  water  to  free 
them  from  dust,  and  then  washed  with  soap  in  the 
washing  machine  and  finally  rinsed  as  above  de- 
scribed. The  preliminary  washing  being  finished, 
any  remaining  stains  are  removed,  as  far  as  possible, 
by  the  usual  methods  before  the  dyeing  is  begun. 
The  next  point  is  to  strip  the  old  dyes  as  far  as  pos- 
sible, especially  if  the  new  shade  is  to  be  medium  or 
light.  In  many  cases  boiling  in  plain  water  is  suf- 
ficient. Woolens  may  require  treatment  with  nitric 
acid,  but  great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  have  the 
acid  too  strong.  From  3°  to  4°  Be.  is  a  good 
strength.  The  action,  too,  should  not  be  extended 
over  five  minutes,  or  the  wool  will  receive  too  pro- 
nounced a  yellow  shade.  Rinsing  after  the  action  of 
the  acid  must  be  ample  and  immediate.  The  acid 
bath  can  be  used  several  times  without  renewal. 

The  receipts  for  dyeing  given  below  are  intended 
to  be  for  10  Ibs.  weight  of  woolen  material  of  any  kind. 

i.  Black  on  wool.  a.  Jet  black.  Make  the  dye 
bath  with  6*/2  ozs.  Acid  Black  S,  |  oz.  Fast  Yellow 
F  Y,  5  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  and  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt. 
This  bath  shows  how,  by  the  addition  of  a  little 
yellow,  the  blue  shade  may  be  changed  to  a  full  jet 
black. 

b.  Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  6^  ozs.  Naphthol 
Black  B,  if  ozs.  Naphthol  Green  B,  f  oz.  Indian  yel- 
low, 6^4  ozs.  sulphuric  acid  and  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt. 

c.  Blue  black.     Make   the  dye  bath  with  9  ozs. 
Anthracene  Black  B,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  9  ozs. 
bisulphate  of  soda,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  237 

Anthracite  black  does  not  require  a  bath  so  acid  as 
do  some  other  coal-tar  blacks.  The  shade  obtained 
is  a  full  blue  black  which  is  fast  to  acids ;  alkalies 
turn  it  a  little  bluer  and  soaping  causes  some  loss  of 
color. 

d.  Violet  black.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  6%  ozs. 
Anthracite  Black  B  and  I  Ib.  bisulphate  of  soda. 

e.  Dead  black.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  6^  ozs. 
Anthracite  Black  R,  I  ]/2  ozs.,  Anthracene  Yellow  C, 
and  I  Ib.  bisulphate  of  soda.     Work  at  the  boil  for  I 
hour,  then  lift,  add  5   ozs.  fluoride  of  chrome,  and 
work  again  at  the  boil  for  20  minutes. 

/.  Diamond  black.  Mordant  by  boiling  for  one 
hour  in  a  bath  made  from  6^  ozs.  bichromate  of 
potash  and  5  ozs.  of  tartar.  Then  rinse  and  dye  in 
a  bath  containing  5*^  ozs.  Diamond  Black,  2^  ozs. 
Alizarine  Cyanine  R  R  R  double,  and  I  y2  ozs.  Gam- 
bine  Yellow,  working  at  the  boil  from  one  to  one  and 
a  half  hours. 

Another  dye  bath  for  diamond  black  is  as  follows : 
I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  4  ozs.  Diamond  Black,  I  oz. 
Diamond  Green.  Boil  for  an  hour,  then  pass  through 
a  fresh  bath  of  3  ozs.  bichromate  of  potash  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour  at  the  boil,  wash  and  dry. 

g.  Brown  black.  Mordant  by  boiling  for  ij^ 
hours  in  a  bath  made  with  5  ozs.  fluoride  of  chrome 
and  I  y^  ozs.  oxalic  acid ;  then  rinse  and  dye  in  a 
bath  containing  2^  Ibs.  Alizarine  Cyanine  Black  G, 
5  ozs.  Anthracene  Brown,  8  ozs.  acetate  of  ammonia 
and  \y?,  ozs.  acetic  acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one 
and  a  half  hours. 


238   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

h.  Chromotrop  black.  Prepare  the  dye  bath  with 
9  ozs.  Chromotrop  S,  ^  oz.  Alazarine  Yellow 
G  G  W,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  6^  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid.  Slowly  raise  to  the  boil  and  work  for  one 
hour;  then  add  to  the  same  dye  bath  5  ozs.  bichro- 
mate of  potash  aud  I  y2  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working 
at  the  boil  for  one  hour.  This  yields  a  jet  black. 

A  blue  black  is  obtained  by  using  a  bath  contain- 
ing 9>£  ozs-  Chromotrop  10  B  and  6*/2  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid.  Dye  and  develop  the  black  by  adding  to  the 
same  bath  5  ozs.  bichromate  of  potash  and  I  ^  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid. 

1.  Logwood  black.     Boil  the  goods  for  two  hours 
in  a  bath  prepared  with  7  Ibs.  logwood,  I  Ib.  fustic,  ^ 
Ib.  sumach,  and   ^   Ib.  tartar ;   then  lift  and  add  to 
the   bath   i  ^   Ibs.   copperas   and    ^    Ib.  bluestone. 
Re-enter  the  goods   and   work  at  the  boil  until  the 
black  has  been  developed.     Lift,  wash  and  dry. 

2.  Gray  on  wool.    a.    Silver  gray.     Dye  in  a  bath 
containing  3  ozs.  Acid  Blue  4  S,  %^  oz.  Titan  Red, 
and  5  ozs.  acetate  of  ammonia. 

b.  A  shade  similar  to  the  last  is  dyed  in  a  bath 
containing  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  I  oz.  bisulphate  of 
soda  and  a  very  small  quantity  of  Anthracite  Black  R. 

.c  Pearl  gray.  Make  the  dye  bath  with  i  Ib. 
Glauber's  salt,  8  ozs.  acetic  acid  and  i  oz.  Naphthyl- 
amine  Black  D. 

d.  Dark  gray.  Prepare  a  bath  from  ^  Ib.  log- 
wood and  3^  Ib.  galls.  Enter  the  goods  into  this 
and  work  for  half  an  hour  at  the  boil.  Then  lift,  add 
y2  Ib.  copperas,  re-enter  the  goods,  and  work  for 
half  an  hour  longer. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  239 

3.  Scarlet  on  wool,  a.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  5 
ozs.  Titan  Scarlet  E  and    i   Ib.  acetate  of  ammonia. 
This  gives  a  good  bright  shade  of  scarlet  which  is 
fast  to  acids. 

b.  Dye  in  a  bath  made  with  5  ozs.  Diamine  Scarlet 
B  and  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt.    This  yields  a  light  shade. 

c.  Make  the  dye  bath  with  5  ozs.  Benzopurpurine 
B  and  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt. 

4.  Crimson  on  wool.    a.    Dye  with  5^  ozs.  Saf- 
franine  and  i^  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

b.  A  very  fine  shade  of  crimson  is  dyed  with  I  y2 
ozs.  Fast  Acid  Violet  R,  10  ozs.  Glauber's  salt,  and 
2  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

5.  Deep  red  on  wool.    Use  a  bath  containing  5  ozs. 
Rhoduline  Red  and  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt. 

6.  Ponceau  on  wool.     Prepare  a  bath  with  3  ozs. 
Ponceau  R,  I    Ib.    Glauber's  salt  and   3^  ozs.  sul- 
phuric acid.    Enter  the  goods  in  the  cold,  bring  to  a 
boil  and  work  to  shade ;  wash  and  dry. 

7.  Maroon  on  wool.     Make  a  dye  bath  with  I  ^ 
ozs.  Acid  Magenta,  2  ozs.  Orange  G,  ^  Ib.  indigo 
extract,   y2  Ib.   Glauber's  salt  and  4  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid.     Work  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

8.  Terracotta  red  on  wool.     Make  the  dye  bath 
from  4  ozs.  Fast  Acid  Magenta  B,  4  ozs.  Fast  Yellow 
F  Y,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  Work 
at  the  boil  to  shade. 

9.  Cherry  red  on  wool.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  4 
ozs.  Fast  Acid  Magenta   B,  4  ozs.  Fast  yellow,  i  Ib. 
Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs,  sulphuric  acid. 

10.  Bordeaux  red  on  wool.    Use  a  bath  containing 


240      DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

5  ozs.  Titan  Scarlet  D,  ^  oz.  Titan  Brown  O,  and  2 
Ibs  salt.  Work  at  the  boil  for  one  hour,  then  lift, 
wash  and  dry. 

11.  Claret  red  on  wool.  a.     Use  a  bath  containing 
6^  ozs.  Archil  Substitute  N,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and 
3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

b.  A  deep  fine  shade  is  dyed  with  3  ozs.  Azo  Red 
A,  y±  oz.'  Orange  extra,  ^  oz.  Cyanole,  I  Ib.  Glauber's 
salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

12.  Bright  red  on  wool.     A  good  shade  is  dyed 
with  6^  ozs.  Lanafuchsine  S  G  and  I  Ib.  bisulphate 
of  soda. 

13.  Orange  on  wool.  a.    Dye  with  3  ozs.  Ponceau 
3  G,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

b.  Bright  orange.    Dye  with  3  ozs.  Mandarine  G,  1. 
Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

c.  Pale  orange.     Dye  with  5  ozs.  Diamine  Gold,  I 
Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  8  ozs.  ammonium  acetate. 

d.  Reddish  orange.     Dye  with   5    ozs.    Diamine 
Orange  D  C  and  2  Ibs   Glauber's  salt. 

14.  Yellow  on  wool.    Make  the  dye  bath  with  \y2 
ozs.  Fast  Yellow  F  Y,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

15.  Bright  yellow  on  wool.     Prepare  a  bath  with 
3  ozs.  Milling  yellow  O,  I    Ib.   Glauber's  salt  and  3 
ozs.  sulphuric  acid.     Work  at  the  boil. 

1 6.  Deep  yellow  on  wool.    Dye  in  a  bath  made  with 
2^  ozs.  Titan  Yellow  R,  I  Ib.  common  salt  and  i^ 
ozs.  acetic  acid.     Work  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

17.  Golden  yellow  on  wool.     Mordant  with  5  ozs. 
bichromate  of  potash  and  3  ozs.  tartar.     Dye  with 
I   2  ozs.  Anthracene  Yellow  C. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  24! 

1 8.  Green  on  wool.    a.    Dark  green.     Make  a  dye 
bath  with    I  ^  ozs.  Titan   Blue   36,1^  ozs.  Titan 
Yellow  Y,  2  Ibs.  salt,  and  I  oz.  acetic  acid. 

b.  Bright  green.    Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  \y2  ozs. 
Titan  Yellow  G,  I  ^  ozs.  Titan  Blue  3  B,  2  Ibs.  salt 
and  i  oz.  acetic  acid  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

c.  Bottle  green.    The  dye  bath  is  made  with  8  ozs. 
Acid   Blue  4  S,  4  oz?.  Titan  Yellow  Y.  and  8  ozs. 
acetate  of  ammonia,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

d.  Sage  green.     Make   the  dye  bath  with    i    Ib. 
Glauber's   salt,   3   ozs.    sulphuric  acid,    3   ozs.   Azo 
Yellow  and  i  ^   ozs.  Patent  Blue  N,  working  at  the 
boil. 

e.  Medium  green.     Use  a  dye  bath  containing  i 
Ib.  indigo  extract,  2   ozs.  picric  acid,  i  y%   ozs.  Acid 
Green,  ^  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid, 
working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

f.  Olive  green.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  5  ozs. 
Naphthol  Green   B,    i    Ib.   Glauber's  salt,    i^    Ibs. 
bisulphate  of  soda  and   i^  ozs.  copperas,  working 
at  the  boil  to  shade. 

g.  Emerald  green.     Use  a  dye  bath  made  with  i 
oz.  Acid  Green  B,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sul- 
phuric acid. 

19.  Blue  on  wool.     a.  Bright  blue.     Prepare  a  bath 
with  3   ozs.  of  borax  and    i^  ozs.  Alkali  Blue  B. 
Enter  the  goods  at  about  170°  F.,  then  heat  to  the 
boil,  and  work  for  half  an   hour.     Then   lift,   rinse 
lightly,  and  pass  through  a  weak  sour  bath  with  sul- 
phuric acid  to  raise  to  the  color. 

b.  Dark  blue.     Prepare  a  dye  bath   with  3   ozs. 
16 


242   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

Serge  Blue,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

c.  Navy  blue.     Prepare   a   dye  bath  with  3   ozs. 
Induline  A,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

d.  Blue-black.     Make  a   dye   bath   with    13    ozs. 
Acid  Blue  I  V,  I    Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sul 
phuric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

e.  Deep  navy  blue.     Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  8  ozs. 
Acid  Blue  I  V,  5  ozs.  Acid  Violet   I  V,  I  Ib.  Glau- 
ber's salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour. 

/.  Peacock  blue.  Make  a  dye  bath  with  i  ^  Ibs. 
indigo  extract,  y2  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  3  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid,  and  ^  oz.  picric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  to 
shade. 

g.  Dark  peacock  blue.  Make  a  dye  bath  with  \y2 
ozs.  Naphthol  Blue  Black,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and 
3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

h.  Violet  blue.  Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  3  ozs. 
Victoria  Violet  8  B  S,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade.  Then 
lift,  wash  and  dry. 

i.  Deep  sky-blue.  Dye  in  a  bath  containing  y2  oz. 
Cyanole  extra,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  acetic 
acid. 

20.  Violet  on  wool.  a.  Pale  violet.  Prepare  a  dye 
bath  with  i  y2  ozs.  Sulphon  Cyanine,  y2  oz.  Geranine 
B,  y2  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  y2  Ib.  acetate  of  am- 
monia, working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

b.   Violet.     Make  the  dye  bath  with   3  ozs.  Acid 


GARMENT   DYEING.  243 

Violet  4  B  S,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric 
acid.  This  gives  a  pure  violet  shade.  If  Acid 
Violet  6  B  S  be  used,  a  bluer  shade  is  obtained. 

c.  Deep  violet.     A  fine  deep  shade  is  obtained  by 
using  \y2    ozs.  Chromotrop  6  R,  4  ozs.  Cyanine  B, 
i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  work- 
ing at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

d.  Mauve.     Use  3  ozs.  Acid  Mauve  B,  i  Ib.  Glau- 
ber's salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

21.  Brown  on  wool.  a.  Make  the  dye  bath  with 
i  y%  ozs.  Nyanza  Black  B,  3  ozs.  Congo  Brown  R, 
and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt,  working  at  the  boil  for  one 
hour;  then  lift,  wash,  and  dry. 

b.  Yellow-brown.     Use  a  dye  bath  containing  i  ^ 
ozs.  Azo   Carmine,    i  y?   ozs.  Fast  Yellow,  I  ^   ozs. 
Indigo  Carmine  D,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and    3    ozs. 
sulphuric  acid.     This  yields  a  good  shade. 

c.  Olive-brown.     Use   i  oz.  Azo  Acid  Violet  4  R, 
3    ozs.   Fast  Yellow,    ^    oz.   Fast  Green  Bluish,    I 
Ib.  Glauber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working 
at  the  boil  for  one  hour;   then  lift,  wash  and  dry. 

d.  Deep  seal.     Dye  in  a  bath  containing  i^  ozs. 
Orange  G  G,  *  oz.  Azo  Yellow,  ^  oz.  Acid  Violet 
N,  i  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid. 

e.  Deep  brown.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  3  ozs. 
Chromotrop  2  R,  2  ozs.  Victoria  Yellow,  6^  ozs. 
Keton  Blue   G,   ^  oz.  Acid  Violet   5  B  E,  i  ^  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt  and  6^   ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working 
at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

/.  Walnut.  Use  \y2  ozs.  Cyanole,  il/2  ozs. 
Orange  extra,  ^  oz.  Archil  Substitute  N,  i  Ib.  Glau- 


244      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

ber's  salt  and  3  ozs.  sulphuric  acid,  working  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour. 

g.  Olive-brown.  Make  a  dye  bath  with  3  ozs. 
sulphuric  acid,  I  Ib.  Glauber's  salt,  \y2  ozs.  Azo 
Fuchswie  G,  ^  oz.  Fast  Yellow,  and  ^  oz.  Fast 
Green  extra  bluish. 

DYEING   MIXED    COTTON   AND   WOOL   GOODS. 

A  large  quantity  of  fabrics  for  men's  suits  are  now 
made  from  wool  and  cotton.  The  garment  dyer  will 
obtain  the  best  results  in  dyeing  such  goods  by  using 
direct  dyes,  it  being  chiefly  necessary  that  a  little  at- 
tention be  paid,  particularly  to  goods  in  which  the 
cotton  either  appears  on  the  surface  forming  a  de- 
sign, or  is  spun  or  twisted  together  with  the  wool. 
The  direct  dyes  work,  as  a  rule,  on  the  two  fibres 
with  equal  facility,  especially  if  the  dye  bath  contains 
rather  more  Glauber's  salt  than  usual.  The  diamine 
dyes  are  also  of  considerable  service,  either  used 
alone  or  with  the  addition  of  a  wool  dye,  to  shade  off 
the  wool  part  of  the  garment  to  the  color  of  the 
cotton. 

i.  Black,  a.  With  10  gallons  of  dye  liquor  use 
4}^  Ibs.  Union  Black  S,  2  ozs.  Diamine  Fast  Yellow 
A,  5  ozs.  Naphthol  Blue  Black,  3^  ozs.  Formyl 
Violet  846,  and  4  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

If  desired  the  goods  may  be  subjected  after  dyeing 
to  a  treatment  with  alum  or  better  bichromate  of 
potash.  The  goods  after  being  dyed  are  rinsed  and 
then  passed  into  a  bath  at  a  temperature  of  140°  F. 
containing  3  Ibs.  bichromate  of  potash  and  I  ^  to  2 


GARMENT   DYEING.  245 

ozs.  sulphuric  acid.  After  being  chromed  in  .this 
bath  for  about  half  an  hour  they  are  well  washed. 
This  chroming  thoroughly  fixes  the  color  on  the 
cotton  and  it  will  not  change  while  being  finished 
either  by  steaming  or  hot  pressing. 

b.  A  very  fine  black  can  be  obtained  from  3^  Ibs. 
Oxydiamine  Black  R  M,  2  Ibs.  Union  Black  S,  g}4 
ozs.  Naphthol  Blue  Black  and  4  ozs.  Formyl  Violet 
S  4  B,  chroming  after  dyeing  as  described  above. 

2.  Blue  black.     Use  3^  Ibs.  Union  Black  S,  \% 
Ibs.  Oxydiamine  Black  B  M,  6^  ozs.  Naphthol  Blue 
Black  and  %  Ib.  Formyl  Violet  846,  and  4  Ibs.  of 
Glauber's  salt,  per  10  gallons  dye  liquor. 

3.  Dark  blue.     For  10  gallons  dye  bath  use  4^ 
Ibs.  Diamine  Dark  Blue  B,  i^  Jbs.  Diamine  Brilliant 
Blue  G,  y^  Ib.  Formyl  Violet  S  4  B,  5  ozs.  Naphthol 
Blue  Black,  and  4  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

4.  Daik  brown,  a.     For  a   dye  bath  of  5  gallons 
use   \y^    Iba.  Diamine  Orange  B,  6y2  ozs.  Diamine 
Bordeaux  B,  ^  Ib.  Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B,   ^  Ib. 
Union  Black,  I  ^  ozs.   Naphthol  Black,  and  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt. 

b.  Dye  the  wool  with  4  ozs.  Glauber's  salt,  4  ozs. 
alum.  I  oz.  sulphuric  acid,  and  2  ozs.  Acid  brown, 
and  i  oz.  indigo  extract.  Work  for  one  hour  at  the 
boil,  then  rinse  and  pass  into  a  warm  bath  of  I  >£  Ibs. 
cutch  and  3^  ozs.  bluestone  and  steep  for  3  hours. 
Lift  and  pass  through  a  bath  of  3  ozs,  bichromate  of 
potash  and  2  ozs.  alum  for  15  minutes;  then  dye  in 
a  bath  containing  4  ozs.  camwood,  6  ozs,  logwood 
extract  and  6  ozs.  fustic  extract,  working  at  the  boil 
to  shade. 


24^      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

5.  Scarlet.    For  a  dye  bath  of  five  gallons  use  \y2 
Ibs.  Benzopurpurine  46,^  oz.  Ponceau  3  R  B,  ^ 
Ib.  Curcumine  S,  and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

6.  Crimson.     For  5   gallons  dye  liquor  use  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt,  ^   Ib.  Congo   Corinth   G,  I   Ib.  Ben- 
zopurpurine  10  B,  and  ^  Ib.  Curcumine  S. 

7.  Orange.      For  5    gallons    dye  liquor   use  4^ 
ozs.  Congo  Brown  G,  ^   Ib.  Mikado  Orange  4  R  O, 
y±  oz.  Mandarine  G  and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

8.  Dark  green.     For  5   gallons  dye  liquor  use   I 
Ib.  Columbia  Green,  ^   Ib.  Sulphon  Azurine  D,  ^ 
Ib.  Zambesi  Blue  B  X,  ^  oz.   Curcumine  S,  and  2 
Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

9.  Slate.      For    5    gallons    dye   bath,   use    2   Ibs. 
Glauber's    salt,    ^    Ib.    Zambezi    Black    D,    ^    oz. 
Zambesi  Blue  R  X,   ^   oz.   Mikado  Orange  4  R  O, 
and  y±  oz.  Acid  Violet  6  B. 

10.  Dark  gray.    For  5  gallons  dye  bath  use  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt,  y2   Ib.  Columbia  Black   FB,  \y2  ozs. 
Zambesi  Black  B  and  ^  oz.  Sulphon  Azurine  D. 

11.  Drab.     For    5    gallons   dye  liquor  use  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's    salt,    ^    Ib.    Zambesi    Black    D,    ^    oz. 
Mandarine  G  extra,  ^  oz.  Curcumine  extra,  and  \y2 
ozs.  Mikado  Orange  4  R  O. 

12.  Cornflower  blue.     For  5   gallons  dye  bath  use 
i  y2  ozs.  Chicago  Blue  4  R,  2  ozs.  Zambesi  Blue  R 
X,  2  ozs.  Acid  Violet  6  B,  ^  oz.  Zambesi  Brown  G, 
and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

13.  Sage  brown.     For   5    gallons  dye  bath  use  4 
ozs.  Zambesi   Black   D,  ^   oz.  Mandarine  G  extra, 
i  y%  ozs.  Curcumine  extra,  I  ^  ozs.  Acid  Violet  6  B, 


GARMENT   DYEING.  247 

3  ozs.  Mikado  Orange  4  R  O,  2^  ozs.  Curcumine  S, 
and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

14.  Dark  sage.     Use  for  5  gallons  dye  bath,  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt,  8  ozs.  Diamine  Orange   B,  3^   ozs. 
Union  Black,  ^  oz.  Diamine  Brown  M,  \%  ozs.  Azo 
Red  A,  and  \%  ozs.  Naphthol  Blue  Black. 

15.  Peacock  green.     For   5    gallons  dye   bath  use 
2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt,  i^   Ibs.  Diamine  Black  H  W, 
2%  ozs.  Diamine  Fast  Yellow  B,  12  ozs.  Thiocarmine 
R,  and  ^  oz.  Indian  Yellow  G. 

DYEING  OF  COTTON  GOODS. 

Cotton  fabrics  generally  contain  a  size,  which  fills 
or  envelopes  the  fibre  and  thus  impedes  the  uniform 
reception  of  the  new  coloring  matter.  Before  dyeing, 
the  complete  removal  of  these  foreign  substances  be- 
comes, therefore,  necessary.  Simple  wetting  or  wash- 
ing in  a  soda  bath  is  not  sufficient  for  this  purpose. 
A  reliable  method  for  the  removal  of  the  size  is  as 
follows:  Boil  22  Ibs.  of  the  fabric  with  3*^  Ibs.  of 
soda  for  i  hour,  rinse,  then  work  it  in  a  hot  moder- 
ately sour  sulphuric  acid  bath  for  10  minutes,  and 
rinse  thoroughly. 

With  the  introduction  of  the  direct  dyes,  cotton 
dyeing  has  become  even  more  simple  than  wool 
or  silk  dyeing,  and  now  all  that  is  necessary  is  to 
prepare  a  dye  liquor  containing  the  necessary  amount 
of  dyestuffs  and  Glauber's  salt  or  common  salt  or 
soda,  or  some  similar  body,  or  a  combination  thereof. 
The  method  of  working  is  to  place  the  goods  in  a 
lukewarm,  or  even  in  a  hot,  bath,  raise  to  the  boil, 


248   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

allow  the  goods  to  remain  in  the  boiling  bath  for  half 
an  hour  to  an  hour,  then  take  them  out,  wring,  wash 
and  dry.  This  method  is  simple  and  will  answer  for 
all  direct  dyes.  There  are  some  that  do  not  require 
the  working  to  be  done  boiling,  it  being  only  neces- 
sary to  enter  the  goods  into  a  boiling  bath  and  work 
without  heat  or  steam  until  the  bath  has  cooled  down. 
Furious  boiling  is  not  needed,  a  gentle  simmering 
giving  the  best  results.  An  enormous  variety  of 
shades  and  tints  can  be  obtained  from  the  direct 
dyes,  and  they  can  be  combined  together  in  every 
conceivable  manner  and  proportion. 

Although  cotton  dresses  are  but  seldom  brought 
to  the  professional  garment  dyer,  such  dresses  being 
in  most  cases  scarcely  considered  worth  the  trouble 
of  redyeing,  a  few  receipts  for  dyeing  with  direct 
colors  are  here  given.  The  formulas  are  intended 
for  10  Ibs.  weight  of  goods. 

1.  Scarlet  on  cotton.     Prepare   the  dye  bath  with 
4f  ozs.  Titan  Scarlet  C,  |  oz.  Titan   Orange,  5  Ibs. 
salt.     Work  at  the  boil  for  30  minutes,  then  lift,  wash 
and  dry. 

2.  Crimson  red  on  cotton.     Make  a  dye  bath  with 
6f  ozs.  Titan  Scarlet  D  and  5  Ibs.  salt.     Work  at  the 
boil  for  50  minutes,  then  lift,  wash  and  dry. 

3.  Pink  on  cotton.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  y2  oz. 
Dianil  Red  4  B,  8  ozs.  salt  and  4^  ozs.  soda. 

4.  Claret  on  cotton.     Dye  with  2f  ozs.  Dianil  Claret 
G,  4!  ozs.  soda  and  2  Ibs.  salt.     Work  at  the  boil  for 
one  hour. 

5.  Maroon  on   cotton.     Dye   with   4*   ozs.    Dianil 


GARMENT   DYEING.  249 

Claret  B,  4*  ozs.  soda,  and  2  Ibs.  salt.     Work  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour. 

6.  Salmon    on    cotton.     Dye    with    ^    oz.    Titan 
Brown  O  and   10  ozs.  common  salt,  working  at  the 
boil  for  one  hour. 

7.  Yellow  on  cotton.     Make  the  dye  bath  with  if 
ozs.  Titan   Yellow  Y,    I   Ib.  salt.     Heat  to    :8o°  F., 
enter  the  goods,  raise  to   boiling,  and  dye  for  one 
hour;   lift,  wash  and  dry. 

8.  Old  gold  on  cotton.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with 
8  ozs.  Diamine  Yellow  N  powder,  2  Ibs.  phosphate 
of  soda,  i  Ib.  soap.     Work  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

9.  Dark  yellow  on  cotton.     Make  the  bath  with  3^ 
ozs.  Toluylene   Orange  G,  I    Ib.  phosphate  of  soda, 
and  4  ozs.  soap,  working  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

10.  Cream  on  cotton.     A  pleasant  shade  of  cream 
is  obtained  by  using  a  very'small  quantity  of  Toluy- 
lene Orange  G,  Brilliant  Orange  G,  if  ozs.  soda,  and 
j  Ib.  Glauber's  salt. 

1 1 .  Orange  on  cotton,  a.    Use  a  dye  bath  contain- 
ing 4!  ozs.    Mikado   Orange    G,  and  2^/2  Ibs.   salt. 
Work  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

b.  Dark  orange.  Dye  with  4^  ozs.  Columbia 
Orange  R,  4|  ozs.  soda,  and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt  at 
the  boil  for  one  hour. 

12.  Green  on  cotton,  a.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with 
3|  ozs.  Benzo  Green  G,   I   Ib.  Glauber's  salt.     Enter 
lukewarm,  bring  slowly  to  the  boil,  dye  for  one  hour 
at  the  boil. 

b.  Sage  green.  Prepare  a  dye  bath  with  i  Ib. 
Glauber's  salt,  \  oz.  Diamine  Black  R  O,  3|  ozs. 


250      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT    DYER. 

Diamine  Yellow  N.  Enter  at  about  150°  F.,  then 
raise  to  boil  and  dye  boiling  for  one  hour;  wash  and 
dry. 

c.  Bright  grass  green.     Dye  for  one  hour  at  the 
boil  with  if  ozs.  Sulphon  Azurine  D,  3^023.  Thiazole 
Yellow,  and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

d.  Dark  green.     Dye  with  4!   ozs.  Diamine  Dark 
Green  N,  4|  ozs.  soda,  and  2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt. 

13.  Blue  on  cotton,  a.     Use  a  dye  bath  containing 
6|  ozs.   Diamine  Blue   B   G,  3|   ozs.  soda,  \y2   Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

b.  Sky  blue.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  if  ozs. 
Diamine  Sky  Blue  F  F,  if  ozs.  Turkey  red  oil,  2  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

c.  Navy  blue.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  6f  ozs. 
Benzo  Chrome  Black  Blue  B,  i^  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt, 
4i  ozs.  soda.     Work  at  the  boil  for  one  hour,  lift, 
rinse  and  dry. 

d.  Dark  navy.     Use  3^  ozs.    Dianil    Dark    Blue 
R,  1 1  ozs.  Dianil  Black  C  R,  3^  ozs.  soda  and  2^ 
Ibs.  salt,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

e.  Violet  blue.    Dye  with  4!  ozs.  Dianil  Dark  Blue 
R,  and  2^  Ibs.  salt  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

14.  Plum  on  cotton.    Dye  with  4^  ozs.  Oxydiamine 
Violet  G,  4!  ozs.  soda,  and  2  Ibs.  salt. 

15.  Violet  on  cotton.     Make'  the  dye   bath  with  i| 
ozs.    Oxydiamine  Violet  B,    if  ozs.  soda,  and    i  Ib. 
Glauber's  salt,  and  dye  at  the  boil  to  shade. 

1 6.  Brown  on  cotton,     a.  Use  6f   ozs.    Paramine 
Brown  G,  2   Ibs.   Glauber's  salt,  and   3^  ozs.  soda. 
Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 


GARMENT   DYEING.  251 

b.  Light  brown.     Prepare  the  dye  bath   with  4! 
ozs.    Diamine   Catechine  G,  4!  ozs.  soda,   I  ^  Ibs. 
Glauber's  salt. 

c.  Dark  "brown.     Use  a  dye  bath  containing  8  ozs. 
Diamine   Catechine  B,  4f   ozs.  soda,    i  y2    Ibs.  Glau- 
ber's salt.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

d.  Gold  brown.     Make  a  dye  bath   with   if  ozs. 
Titan  Gold,  5  Ibs.  common  salt.     Enter  at  the  boil, 
work  for  one  hour,  then  lift,  wash,  and  dry. 

e.  Chestnut  brown.     Use  a  dye  bath  containing  4! 
ozs.  Titan  Brown  R,  2f  ozs.  Titan  Blue  R,  2^  Ibs. 
common  salt.     Work  at  the  boil  to  shade,  then  lift, 
wash  and  dry. 

17.  Black    on    cotton,     a.  Prepare    the   dye   bath 
with  8   ozs.   Oxydiamine  Black  A,  2  Ibs.   Glauber's 
salt,  and  3^  ozs.  soda.     Dye  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

b.  Use  4  ozs.   Diamine  Jet  Black  Cr,  4  ozs.  Dia- 
mine Jet  Black  R  B,  3^  ozs.  soda,  and  2  Ibs.  Glau- 
ber's salt,  working  at  the  boil  for  one  hour. 

c.  Use  9f  ozs.  Oxydiamine  Black  N  R,  3i  ozs. 
soda  and   2  Ibs.  Glauber's  salt,  working  at  the  boil 
for  one  hour. 

d.  Deei)  black.     Prepare  the  dye  bath  with  84  ozs. 
Diamine  Deep  Black  R  B,  3^  ozs.  soda,  2  Ibs.  Glau- 
ber's salt.     Dye  for  one  hour  at  the  boil,  lift,  rinse 
and  dry. 

18.  Gray  on  cotton.     By  using  all  the  direct  blacks 
in  proportions  varying  from  ^  to  I  per  cent,  of  the 
dyestuflf  to  the  weight  of  the  goods,  they  give  grays 
of  various  tints  and  depths. 


252      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

DYEING  COTTON  AND  LINEN   GARMENTS  CONTAINING 

JUTE. 

Fabrics  used  for  these  articles  consist  usually  of  a 
cotton  or  linen  warp  and  a  jute  weft.  They  require 
considerable  care  in  dyeing,  as  the  jute  has  a  much 
greater  affinity  for  nearly  every  known  dye  than 
either  linen  or  cotton.  Jute,  for  example,  can  be 
dyed  direct  with  basic  dyes  in  an  alum  bath  without 
previous  mordanting,  the  bath  exhausting  well,  while 
cotton  or  linen  must  first  be  mordanted  to  get  even 
medium  and  particularly  dark  shades  with  a  basic 
dye.  In  dyeing  mixtures  of  cotton  and  linen  with 
jute  black,  for  instance,  with  a  basic  dye  stuff,  the 
weft  will  come  out  black,  while  the  warp  remains  a 
dark  gray  at  the  best.  The  most  common  colors  for 
these  mixed  goods  are  blacks,  reds,  blues  and  yellows, 
mixed  and  mode  shades  being  less  usual.  The  dyes 
most  in  use  for  pure  jute  are  Coal  Black,  Victoria 
Blue,  Croceine  Scarlet  and  Auramine  Yellow,  but 
they  are  all  quite  unsuitable  for  mixtures  of  jute  with 
cotton  and  linen.  For  them,  direct  or  substantive 
dyes  are  best,  such  as  Columbia  Black,  Benzopur- 
purine  4  B,  Dianil  Blue  B,  and  Chrysophenine.  Even 
these  go  somewhat  deeper  on  to  jute  than  on  to 
cotton  or  linen.  The  remedy  for  all  these  difficulties 
is  to  mix  the  dye  with  the  dressing.  All  the  three 
fibres  are  then  dyed  alike, .but  the  exact  quantity  of 
dye  to  take  must  be  accurately  judged.  Too  much 
dye  causes  a  bronzing  of  the  color  of  the  jute  while, 
if  there  is  any  deficiency  of  dye,  the  levelling  is  lost 
and  the  cotton  or  linen  comes  out  paler  than  the 


GARMENT   DYEING.  253 

jute.  The  following  receipt  has  stood  the  test  of 
prolonged  trial  very  satisfactory  for  black. 

Wheat  starch  2^  Ibs,  50  per  cent.  Turkey  red  oil 
i^  Ibs.,  Columbia  Black  F  extra  \y2  Ibs.,  Dianil 
Green  G  8  ozs.,  Glauber's  salt  3  Ibs.,  carbonate  of 
soda  8  ozs.,  tallow  4!  ozs.,  water  10  gallons. 

Pass  the  goods  slowly  through  this  size  at  a  tem- 
perature of  from  176°  to  194°  F.,  and  dry  immedi- 
ately. Not  only  is  the  color  good,  but  much  labor 
is  saved.  Any  direct  dye  can  be  applied  in  size  in  a 
similar  way. 


X. 

STRIPPING   COLORS    FROM   GARMENTS   AND    FABRICS. 

The  garment  dyer  has  generally  to  deal  with  clothes 
which  are  still  quite  good,  but  have  lost  their  color. 
This  has  to  be  renovated  or,  in  some  cases,  the  cus- 
tomer requires  the  color  to  be  changed  to  another. 
Formerly  the  art  was  almost  confined  to  restoring 
the  original  color,  but  now  browns  have  to  be  dyed 
on  blue  or  green  goods,  greens  on  browns,  and  even 
greens  and  browns  on  stuffs  originally  black. 

Garment  dyers  frequently  strip  by  a  mere  treat- 
ment with  hot  soda  and  soap.  With  goods  dyed 
with  acid  colors  this  treatment  is  fairly  successful, 
though  much  of  the  original  color  is  restored  when 
re-entering  an  acid  dye  bath.  This  alkaline  treat- 
ment is  always  risky  and,  in  most  cases  fatal  to  deli- 
cate wool.  Generally  speaking  soda  must  be  used 
with  care ;  while  cotton  goods  will  not  be  much  af- 
fected, silk  and  wool  fabrics  are  liable  to  be  materi- 
ally altered. 

For  stripping  some  of  the  aniline  colors  the  fol- 
lowing process  may  be  used :  Prepare  a  liquor  from 
i  Ib.  of  zinc  powder  and  2^  ozs.  of  quicklime  mixed 
with  water;  boil  up  for  half  an  hour  and  then  allow 
the  mixture  to  settle.  Decant  the  clear  liquor  from 
(254) 


STRIPPING   COLORS.  255 

the  sediment  and  mix  it  with  sufficient  water  to  make 
a  bath  in  which  the  goods  can  be  conveniently  worked. 
The  goods  are  allowed  to  steep  in  the  liquor  for  six 
to  eight  hours,  taken  out,  rinsed,  boiled  in  a  fresh 
bath  with  10  ozs.  of  alum  and  1^4  ozs.  of  tartar  for 
half  an  hour,  washed  and  dried.  The  proportions 
given  will  generally  suffice  for  10  Ibs.  of  goods. 

Some  colors  such  as  browns  and  blacks  may  often 
be  removed  by  boiling  in  a  bath  containing  about  5 
to  10  per  cent,  of  bichromate  of  potash  and  about  the 
same  amount  or  rather  more  of  sulphuric  acid.  This 
stripping  method  does  not  give  a  particularly  good 
ground  to  work  on  owing  to  the  objectionable  yellow 
color  imparted  to  the  goods.  However,  it  is  quite 
suitable  for  the  dyeing  of  medium  and  dark  shades 
with  the  possible  exception  of  blues. 

Silks  dyed  with  aniline  colors  are  usually  stripped 
with  nitric  acid.  However,  if  the  color  is  a  golden- 
yellow  it  will  be  found  impossible  to  strip  it.  The 
stripping  bath  is  made  in  a  vessel  of  wood,  earthen- 
ware, or  enameled  iron,  but  must  never  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  bare  metal.  The  bath  may  be  heated  by 
steam  or  over  an  open  fire.  It  is  made  with  boiling 
water,  4  quarts  of  nitric  acid  and  I  quart  of  sulphuric 
acid.  The  amount  of  water  should  be  such  that  the 
liquid  shows  about  6°  Be.  When  the  goods  are  im- 
mersed most  of  the  colors  disappear  at  once.  Blues 
resist  the  longest,  and  the  goods  are  kept  immersed 
till  they  are  discharged.  The  bath  must  be  kept 
near  the  boil  during  its  use.  When  lifted  the  goods 
are  rinsed  free  from  acid  with  hot  water.  To  make 


256   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

sure  that  the  dye  is  destroyed,  dip  a  corner  of  the 
fabric  into  dilute  ammonia.  If  the  color  reappears, 
the  piece  must  be  returned  to  the  acid  bath.  Great 
care  is  required  in  working  with  nitric  acid  as,  if  too 
strong  or  its  action  is  too  prolonged,  the  acid  has  a 
tendency  to  tender  the  fibre. 

Woolens  are  stripped  in  the  same  way  as  silk.  It 
has  been  proposed  to  use  cyanide  of  potassium  for 
stripping  certain  fast  colors,  especially  aniline  blues. 
The  nitric  acid  process  is,  however,  preferable  in 
spite  of  the  yellow  color  it  leaves.  The  goods  are 
boiled  in  a  weak  solution  of  the  cyanide  and  after 
several  rinsings  are  transferred  to  a  sulphurous  acid 
bath  at  122°  F.  Here  the  color  disappears  in  the 
case  of  aniline  blues  and  other  dyes  amenable  to  the 
process.  The  goods  are  then  rinsed  in  a  sulphuric 
acid  bath  without  first  rinsing.  Care  must  be  had  to 
rinse  out  the  cyanide  perfectly  before  using  the  acid 
bath,  or  highly  poisonous  vapors  will  be  copiously 
evolved. 

Mixtures  of  wool  and  silk  are  treated  exactly  like 
pure  silk.  Mixtures  of  wool  and  cotton  are  treated 
first  with  a  weak  carbonate  of  soda  bath,  then  with 
eau  de  Javelle,  and  finally  with  nitric  acid  of  2°  Be., 
without  any  sulphuric  acid,  if  the  colors  still  remain. 
The  use  of  acids  on  cotton  should,  however,  be 
avoided  if  possible,  as  it  involves  thorough  and  pro- 
longed rinsing. 

Peroxide  of  hydrogen  may  be  used  for  all  dyes  not 
having  a  metallic  base,  i.  e.  without  iron,  lead,  or 
chromium.  The  goods  are  placed  in  a  bath  of  ten 


STRIPPING  COLORS.  257 

quarts  of  the  peroxide  and  3^  ozs.  of  ammonia. 
After  an  hour  or  two  at  the  ordinary  temperature, 
raise  to  boil.  As  soon  as  the  bath  boils  it  has  lost 
all  its  power,  so  that  the  boiling  need  not  last  more 
than  five  minutes. 

This  treatment  destroys  nearly  all  organic  dyes. 
Peroxide  of  hydrogen  is  however  a  rather  expensive 
stripping  agent. 

An  old  method  for  stripping  woolens,  however 
rarely  employed,  consists  in  boiling  with  dilute  sul- 
phuric or  hydrochloric  acid  and  nitrate  of  soda. 
This  bath  acts  very  energetically  on  the  colors,  and 
the  fiber  suffers  little,  but  the  escaping  nitrous  fumes 
are  highly  objectionable. 

But  for  the  high  price,  potassium  permanganate 
forms  one  of  the  best  decolorizing  agents  both  for 
animal  and  vegetable  fibers.  The  goods  are  worked 
for  about  one  hour  in  a  co4d  bath  containing  some- 
thing like  3  per  cent,  of  their  weight  of  permanganate 
and  the  same  quantity  of  sulphuric  acid,  and  then 
freed  from  deposited  oxide  by  repeated  treatment 
either  with  cold  aqueous  sulphurous  acid  or  by 
boiling  with  oxalic  acid.  No  difficulty  is  experienced 
in  re-dyeing. 

The  best  stripping  agent  for  cotton  goods  is 
chloride  of  lime.  With  the  exception  of  a  few  yellows 
and  oranges,  all  direct  colors  yield  to  the  usual 
bleaching  routine ;  the  same  holds  good  with  basic 
colors,  and  still  more  so  with  the  sulphur  colors. 

Sodium  hydrosulphite  plays  now  an  important  role 
as  a  stripping  agent.  It  completely  removes  a  large 
17 


258      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

number  of  dyes  without  any  injury  to  the  fiber.  The 
bath  should  contain  about  5  quarts  of  hydrosulphite 
to  100  of  water,  and  the  goods  should  be  worked  in 
it  for  from  15  to  30  minutes  at  122°  to  140°  F.  The 
process  may  be  pushed  so  far  that  aniline-black  or 
para- red  may  be  stripped  from  cotton  goods,  and 
that  without  the  slightest  tendering.  Sodium  hydro- 
sulphite  is  prepared  by  adding  slowly  and  with  con- 
stant stirring  1  Ib.  of  zinc  dust  to  a  mixture  of  10  Ibs. 
bisulphite  of  soda  and  I  gallon  of  water. 


XI. 

ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE   FABRICS. 

The  dyer  and  cleaner  should  be  able  to  analyze 
cloth  by  simple  means.  Linen,  silk  and  wool  are 
largely  adulterated  with  cotton,  and  all  these  fibers 
behave  differently  even  in  ordinary  washing.  More- 
over, the  varieties  of  unions  and  mixture  cloths 
are  constantly  increasing,  and  in  these  days  of  mer- 
cerization  and  other  processes,  the  sight  and  touch 
are  not  sufficient  to  identify  a  material. 

The  fibers  of  which  a  tissue  is  composed  are  most 
readily  and  best  determined  with  the  assistance  of 
the  microscope.  Everyone,  however,  does  not  pos- 
sess such  an  instrument  and  besides  considerable 
skill  and  experience  are  required  in  its  use.  But 
chemistry  has  also  furnished  many  reliable  methods 
of  analysis  which  are  readily  executed. 

The  chief  distinctive  characteristics  of  the  principal 
fibres  as  shown  under  the  microscope  are  as  follows  : 

Cotton.  This  fiber  appears  under  the  microscope 
as  a  granular  striped  band,  mostly  twisted  in  the 
shape  of  a  corkscrew,  which  is  more  particularly  evi- 
dent when  the  fiber  is  moistened  with  water.  The 
fiber  is  a  flattened  cylindric  tube  with  thickened  walls. 

Flax  consists  of  the  bast  fibers  from  the  plants  of 
(259) 


26O      DRY    CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

the  Linum  family.  Under  the  microscope  the  flax 
fiber  appears  as  a  long,  straight,  cylindrical  tube  of 
uniform  thickness,  either  smooth  or  longitudinally 
striated,  and  frequently  exhibiting  transverse  cracks. 
In  many  places  it  presents  nodes  and  displacements, 
which  cause  it  to  look  as  though  articulated. 

Hemp.  Examined  under  the  microscope  the  fiber 
of  hemp  is  very  similar  to  flax,  exhibiting  displace- 
ments, longitudinal  fissures,  and  transverse  cracks ; 
but  it  is  less  regular  in  thickness.  The  ends  of  the 
fibers  are  very  characteristic,  being  very  thick-walled 
and  blunt,  frequently  branching  sideways  and  thus 
affording  a  ready  means  of  distinguishing  this  fiber 
from  flax. 

Jute.  In  microscopic  structure  jute  fiber  exhibits 
a  certain  similarity  to  hemp  and  flax,  but  the  longi- 
tudinal view  shows  neither  displacement  nor  striations. 

Silk.  Under  the  microscope  the  silk  fiber  ex- 
hibits the  appearance  of  a  clear,  cylindrical  double 
thread  enclosed  in  a  cloudy  integument.  It  appears 
smooth  and  free  from  scales. 

Tussah  silk.  Under  the  microscope  this  variety 
of  silk  exhibits  a  highly  characteristic  appearance, 
differing  greatly  from  true  silk,  the  fibers  showing 
strong  striation  and  being  apparently  much  con- 
stricted in  parts.  Unlike  true  silk,  the  fiber  is  not 
of  circular  cross  section,  but  of  elongated  quadri- 
lateral form. 

Wool.  When  a  fiber  of  sheep's  wool  is  examined 
under  the  microscope,  it  is  seen  to  consist  of  three 
parts,  distinguished  respectively  as  the  scaly  epider- 


ANALYSIS    OF  TEXTILE   FABRICS.  26 1 

mis,  the  cortex  and  the  medulla  or  pith.  The  outer 
scaly  epidermis  is  composed  of  thin  horny  scales 
lying  one  above  the  other  like  the  tiles  of  a  roof.  In 
the  finer  qualities  of  wool  a  single  scale  is  generally 
sufficient  to  entirely  surround  the  wool  hair,  so  that 
the  latter  seems  to  be  formed  of  a  number  of  cups 
set  one  within  another,  the  upper  of  each  scale  being 
also  generally  projecting,  ragged,  and  serrated. 
These  scales  form  the  chief  external  characteristics  of 
sheep's  wool,  and  render  its  detection  under  the  mic- 
roscope an  easy  task. 

There  are  many  intricate  and  elaborate  means  of 
chemically  examining  fibers  and  fabrics,  but  they  are 
too  troublesome  for  the  use  of  the  cleaner  and  dyer, 
and  we  shall  therefore  confine  ourselves  to  those 
which  are  more  easily  attainable. 

Cellulose  forms  the  basis  of  all  vegetable  textile 
fibers  (cotton,  flax,  hemp,  etc).,  and  they,  therefore, 
vigorously  resist  the  action  of  even  boiling-hot  aqueous 
solutions  of  the  caustic  alkalies,  while  they  are  strongly 
attacked  by  heated  sulphuric,  nitric,  and  hydrochloric 
acids,  either  in  a  concentrated  or  diluted  state.  Thus, 
for  instance,  a  cotton  fabric  may,  without  suffering 
great  injury,  be  immersed  in  cold  water  containing  5 
to  10  per  cent,  of  acid;  but  on  heating  the  fluid, 
especially  to  the  boiling  point,  the  cotton  in  a  short 
time  becomes  friable  and  dissolves. 

Fuming  nitric  acid,  or  a  mixture  of  nitric  and 
sulphuric  acids,  does  not  dissolve  the  vegetable  fiber 
but  converts  it,  almost  without  changing  its  physical 
appearance,  into  gun-cotton. 


262      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Ammonia,  either  at  the  ordinary  or  a  raised  tem- 
perature, produces  no  effect  upon  cotton  and  hemp. 
However,  a  solution  of  ammonio-oxide  of  copper 
(Schweitzer's  reagent)  dissolves  cotton,  hernp,  and 
flax. 

In  a  pure  state,  vegetable  textile  fibers  have  but  a 
feeble  affinity  for  artificially  prepared  coloring  mat- 
ters, they  being  but  slightly  or  not  at  all  dyed  by 
them,  and  the  application  of  a  little  soap  suffices  to 
remove  the  dye.  They  do  not  evolve  a  characteristic 
odor  in  burning. 

Wool,  on  the  other  hand,  resists  the  action  of  even 
concentrated  and  hot  acids  quite  well,  but  is  dissolved, 
especially  at  a  higher  temperature,  by  caustic  lyes. 
Since  wool  contains  sulphur,  there  is  formed  by  its 
solution  in  caustic  soda  a  fluid  which  contains  alkaline 
sulphide  and  sulphydrate,  which  are  indicated  by  a 
beautiful  violet  tint  produced  by  the  addition  of 
nitro-prusside  of  sodium.  Nitric  acid  imparts  to  wool 
an  intense  yellow  color;  chlorine  and  hypochlorites 
act  in  a  similar  manner,  they  also  impacting  to  wool 
a  yellow  color.  At  the  ordinary  temperature  Schweit- 
zer's reagent  has  no  effect  on  wool,  but  when  heated 
dissolves  it.  When  decomposed  by  heat,  wool  evolves 
the  characteristic  odor  of  burnt  horn.  It  possesses 
great  affinity  for  coloring  matters,  especially  for  those 
artificially  prepared,  by  which  it  is  readily  dyed  with- 
out a  mordant. 

Silk,  when  burned,  evolves  an  odor  similar  to  wool. 
It  is  dissolved,  especially  at  higher  temperatures,  by 
the  above-mentioned  acids  in  a  concentrated  state. 


ANALYSIS    OF    TEXTILE   FABRICS.  263 

Cold  nitric  acid  colors  silk  yellow.  Acids  diluted 
with  water  do  not  act  very  vigorously  upon  silk. 
Concentrated  alkaline  lyes  dissolve  it,  but  the  solu- 
tion does  not  contain  alkaline  sulphide  like  that  of 
wool.  Silk  is  changed,  but  not  dissolved,  by  very 
dilute  alkaline  lyes.  Ammonia  produces  no  effect 
on  it,  while  Schweitzer's  reagent  dissolves  it.  The 
affinity  of  silk  for  coloring  matters  is  the  same  as 
that  of  wool. 

To  establish  the  presence  of  vegetable  fibers  (cot- 
ton, hemp,  flax,  jute,  etc.)  in  a  tissue  consisting  of 
wool  and  silk,  it  is  only  necessary  to  boil  the  latter 
in  a  test-fluid  containing  3^  ozs.  solid  caustic  soda 
in  one  quart  of  water.  Weigh  out  accurately  y2  to 
i  drachm  of  the  fabric  to  be  examined ;  introduce 
this  sample,  together  with  -jV  quart  of  the  soda-lye, 
into  a  porcelain  casserole  of  about  I  pint  capacity, 
and  boil  it  over  an  alcohol  or  gas  flame  for  five  min- 
utes. If  the  mass  dissolves,  it  consists  only  of  animal 
fiber  (silk  or  wool)  ;  but  if  it  is  not  entirely  dissolved, 
take  the  casserole  from  the  fire,  allow  to  settle,  pour 
off  the  supernatant  lye,  and,  after  adding  fresh  lye, 
boil  again  for  five  minutes.  If  a  residue  now  re- 
mains, it  consists  entirely  of  vegetable  fiber.  If  the 
vegetable  fiber  is  colored,  the  residue  is  brought  upon 
a  small  cotton  filter  and  washed  with  hot  water.  The 
washed  fiber  is  then  brought  into  lukewarm  water 
acidulated  with  about  5  per  cent,  hydrochloric  acid. 
After  ten  minutes  add  a  little  chlorine-water,  or  a  few 
drops  of  chloride  of  lime  solution,  whereby  the  vege- 
table fiber  is  bleached.  The  filtrate  of  the  caustic 


264   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

soda  solution,  which  contains  wool  or  silk,  may  now 
immediately  be  tested  as  to  the  presence  of  wool. 
If  the  latter  is  present,  alkaline  sulphides  have  been 
formed,  which  remain  in  the  solution.  They  can  be 
immediately  detected  by  the  addition  of  a  few  drops 
of  acetate  of  lead  solution.  If  a  white  precipitate  is 
formed,  which  is  completely  dissolved  on  shaking, 
silk  only  is  present ;  however,  if  a  black  precipitate 
of  sulphide  of  lead  is  formed,  the  tested  tissue  con- 
tains wool.  Instead  of  acetate  of  lead  solution,  a  few 
drops  of  nitro-prusside  of  sodium  solution  may  be 
used,  which,  as  previously  mentioned,  produces  in 
the  presence  of  alkaline  sulphides  a  beautiful  violet 
tint. 

If  the  tissue  is  provided  with  much  coloring  mat- 
ter, E.  Kopp  recommends  to  cut  the  sample  into 
small  pieces  and  immerse  the  latter,  with  occasional 
stirring,  for  five  minutes  in  a  mixture  of  2  volumes 
sulphuric  acid  of  60°  Be.  and  I  volume  fuming  nitric 
acid  of  60°  Be.  By  this  means  the  wool,  silk,  and 
coloring  matters  are  oxidized  and  destroyed,  while 
the  vegetable  fiber  is  converted  into  gun-cotton,  and 
retains  its  characteristic  fibrous  nature.  The  whole 
is  then  brought  into  a  comparatively  large  quantity 
of  water,  in  which  the  gun-cotton  deposits.  The 
fluid  is  then  poured  off,  while  the  residue  is  collected 
upon  a  filter,  thoroughly  washed,  and  dried.  The 
dry  residue  now  shows  the  explosive  property  of  gun- 
cotton. 

For  testing  white,  or  not  too  dark-colored  mixed 
tissues,  the  affinity  of  the  animal  fibers  for  the  arti- 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE   FABRICS.  265 

ficially-prepared  coloring  matters  may  also  be  uti- 
lized. Dark-colored  tissues  must  first  be  decolorized 
by  treatment  with  weak  chlorine-water,  and  subse- 
quent thorough  washing  in  boiling  water.  Certain 
precautions  have,  however,  to  be  observed,  since  cot- 
ton, especially  when  impregnated  with  amylaceous 
or  other  substances  serving  for  sizing,  may  also  be 
dyed  with  aniline  colors.  These  substances  must 
first  be  removed,  and  for  this  purpose  the  tissue  is 
first  boiled  for  ten  minutes  in  water  which  contains 
in  100  parts  2  parts  of  carbonate  of  soda  and  a  little 
soap.  The  tissue  is  then  rinsed  in  hot  water,  next 
steeped  for  five  to  ten  minutes  in  water  of  120°  to 
140°  F.,  which  contains  2  per  cent,  of  hydrochloric 
or  sulphuric  acid,  and  finally  thoroughly  washed. 
In  the  meanwhile  prepare  a  dye-bath,  by,  for  in- 
stance, dissolving  a  few  drachms  of  fuchsine  in  25  to 
30  cubic  centimeters  of  water,  heating  the  solution 
to  boiling,  and  adding,  during  the  boiling,  caustic 
soda  solution,  drop  by  drop,  until  the  bath  shows 
only  a  pale  rose  color.  Now  remove  the  bath  from 
the  fire  and  introduce  the  tissue ;  take  it  out  after  a 
few  minutes,  thoroughly  wash  it  in  clean  water,  and 
dry.  The  silk  and  woolen  threads  will  be  colored 
bright  red,  while  the  cotton,  flax,  etc.,  remain  un- 
colored. 

For  the  detection  of  silk  in  wool,  or  wool  in  silk, 
in  white  or  light-colored  tissues,  the  presence  of  sul- 
phur in  the  wool  may  be  utilized.  Prepare  a  solution 
of  oxide  of  lead  in  caustic  soda  by  boiling  litharge  in 
the  latter  and,  after  settling,  pouring  off  the  clear 


266   DRY  CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT  DYER. 

fluid.  Immerse  the  tissue  in  the  latter.  In  conse- 
quence of  their  content  of  sulphur  the  woolen  threads 
immediately  become  black  by  the  formation  of  black 
sulphide  of  lead,  while  the  color  of  the  silk  threads, 
which  contain  no  sulphur,  remains  unchanged. 

A  simple  method  consists  in  the  use  of  concentrated 
acids.  Cold  nitric  acid  dissolves  silk,  while  wool  is 
not  perceptibly  attacked  by  it.  Silk  acts  in  the  same 
manner  towards  sufficiently  concentrated  cold  sul- 
phuric acid.  The  last-mentioned  acid  at  the  same 
time  frees  the  wool  from  vegetable  fibers  by  convert- 
ing them  into  gum  and  sugar. 

It  is  better,  however,  to  immerse  the  sample  of  the 
tissue  in  cold  concentrated  hydrochloric  acid.  The 
silk  is  in  a  short  time  completely  dissolved,  while  the 
woolen  and  vegetable  fibers  remain  behind  unchanged. 
Now  add  water,  collect  the  unchanged  woolen  and 
vegetable  fibers  upon  a  filter,  and  wash  thoroughly 
As  a  rule,  they  must  also  be  decolorized. 

Now  to  distinguish  the  woolen  from  the  vegetable 
fibers,  treat  them  either  with  boiling  caustic  soda-lye, 
which  only  dissolves  the  wool,  or  use  artificially-pre- 
pared coloring-matters,  such  as  fuchsine,  aniline- 
violet,  or  picric  acid,  which  do  not  dye  the  cotton  if 
the  necessary  precautionary  measures  are  taken. 

Before  subjecting  the  tissues  to  a  chemical  test,  it 
is  advisable  to  free  them  from  their  sizing  and  color- 
ing-matters, the  first  of  which  is  effected  by  succes- 
sive treatment  with  boiling  water,  either  pure  or 
slightly  acidulated,  or  made  alkaline  by  the  addition 
of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  the  latter  by  chlorine-water. 
The  tissues  are  finally  carefully  washed  and  dried. 


ANALYSIS    OF   TEXTILE   FABRICS.  267 

The  following  summary  for  distinguishing  'the 
purity  of  a  fabric  by  chemical  agents  is  given  by  the 
National  Laundry  Record  : — 

Cotton  is  completely  decomposed  by,  and  forms  a 
a  powder  after  being  immersed  in,  strong  hydro- 
chloric acid  and  dried. — It  is  completely  decomposed 
in  a  hot  and  strong  solution  of  nitric  acid. — Weak 
sulphuric  acid  stains  cotton  blue. 

Cotton  in  linen  cloth  can  be  detected  by  immersion 
in  caustic  potash  solution  (i  to  2),  and  then  washing 
and  drying.  The  flax  is  colored  a  deep  yellow,  but 
the  cotton  is  not  affected. — Boiled  in  concentrated 
sulphuric  acid  for  a  minute  or  two,  the  cotton  fiber 
is  dissolved,  but  not  the. flax. — Boiled  in  water  and 
dried,  immersed  in  a  strong  solution  of  common  salt 
and  sugar,  and  then  burnt,  the  cotton  yields  a  black, 
and  the  flax  a  gray  ash. 

To  determine  whether  a  so-called  woolen  cloth  con- 
tains cotton,  a  2  per  cent,  soda  lye  may  be  used. 
After  drying,  the  fibers  are  separated.  The  remain- 
ing wool  is  weighed  and  compared  with  the  original 
weight. 

Jute  is  colored  dark  brown  by  sulphuric  acid. 

Linen  acquires  a  blue  color  when  treated  with 
dilute  sulphuric  acid. 

Silk  is  dissolved  by  hot  solutions  of  caustic  soda, 
and  destroyed  by  strong  solutions  of  zinc  chloride. 
Strong  solutions  of  hydrochloric,  nitric  and  sulphuric 
acids  dissolve  silk  immediately. 

Tussah  silk  is  stronger  than  true  silk.  It  is  not 
affected  by  a  weak  solution  of  caustic  soda,  which  will 
dissolve  true  silk. 


268      DRY   CLEANER,  SCOURER,  GARMENT   DYER. 

Cotton  present  in  a  so-called  woolen  fabric  dissolves 
in  a  weak  solution  of  hydrochloric  acid. 

Cloth  containing  silk  arid  wool  can  be  recognized  by 
boiling  in  a  hydrochloric  acid  solution.  The  silk  is 
dissolved  while  the  wool  swells. 

Iodine  and  sulphuric  acid  in  weak  solution  impart  a 
blue  stain  to  flax,  a  greenish-yellow  stain  to  hemp ;  a 
blue  stain  to  rhea  fibre ;  a  dark  yellow  stain  to  jute. 

Caustic  soda  in  a  solution  of  about  26.5°  Be.  causes 
the  cotton  fiber  to  shrink  in  length  and  become  more 
transparent  and  lustrous.  Cloth  heated  thus  is  called 
mercerized  cloth. 


INDEX. 


ACID,  acetic,  52,  53 
benzoic,  102 

Benzine,  spontaneous  ignition  of,  16,  17 
stills,  41-46 

citric,  56,  57,  81 

testing  of,  4,  5 

dyes,  groups  of,  230 

vapor,  explosion  of,  14,  15 

stripping  goods  dyed  with,  254 
dyestuffs,  application  of,  232 

washing  machines,  25-27 
washing  with,  27-32 

hydrochloric,  57,  80 
oleates,  water-absorbing  power  of,  6 

wet,  drying  ot,  21 
Benzinized  magnesia,  65 

oxalate  of  potassium,  57 

Benzoic  acid,  102 

ox.ihc,  57,  81 
stains,  73 

Beuzol,  manner  of  distinguishing  benzine 
from.  9 

sulphuric,  80 

or  benzene,  8,  9 

sulphurous,  So,  81 

ptoperties  of,  8,  Q 

tartaric,  56 

Binoxalate  of  potassium,  57 

Alcohol,  51 
Ame;ican  turpentine,  10 

Birds'  wings,  dyeing  of,  184,  185 
Black  colors,  stripping  of,  255 

Ammonia,  81 

Blankets,  woolen,  sulphuring  of,  99 

determination  of,  in  water,  84 
use  ot,  as  a  fire  extinguishing  agent, 

Bleaching  and  dyeing  straw  hats,  188-203 
chamber,  construction  of  a,  98 

16 

feathers,  157 

Analysis  of  textile  fabrics,  259-268 

fluids,  55,  56 

Aniline  color  stains,  75 

bleaching  straw  with,  194,  195 

colors,  dyeing  gloves  with,  210-213 

liquor,  apparatus  for  preparing,  191- 

straw  with,  201-203 

193 

stripping  of,  254,  255 

processes,  99—105 

Antibenzinpyrin,  6 

Blonde-laces,  washing  of,  113-115 

preparation  of,  7,  8 

Borax,  53,  54 

Antimacassars,  cleaning  of,  no,  in 
Austrian  turpentine,  10 

Brown  colors,  stripping  of,  255 
Buckskin  gloves,  washing  of,  207,  208 

D AREGE  garments,  washing  of,  96,  97 
JJ     Basic  dyestuffs,  application  of,  233 
Beer  stains,  72 
Benzene  or  benzol,  8,  9 
Benzine,  4-8,  52 

addition  of  soap  to,  5,  6,  18 

and  other  solvents,   dangers  of,  in 
dry  cleaningj  14-19 

chemical  constitution  of,  5 

classification  of  oleates  soluble  in,  6 

deodori/ation  of.  38,  39 

discovery  of  the  detergent  powers  of,  i 

distilled,  superiority  of,  39,  40 

distillers,  41-46 

filtering  of,  36 

gelatinized,  65,  66 

Hasselbach's  method  of  clarifying,  38 

ignition  of,  by  electrical  sparks,  17 

manner  of  distinguishing,  from  ben- 
zol, 9 

properties  of,  4 

purification  of,  36—46 

by  distillation,  39-46 
with  sulphuric  acid,  37,  38 

soaps,  decomposition  of,  7 
solubility  of,  7 


CALICO,  soap  for  the  removal  of  stains 
from,  62 

Caps,  white  cloth,  cleaning  of,  106 
Carbon  tetrachloride,  11-14,  52 

advantages  of,  12,  13 
properties  of,  n 
storage  of,  13,  14 
Carbonate  of  soda,  82 
,  Carpets,  chemical  cleaning  of,  35,  36 

washing  of,  122,  124 
|  Centrifugals,  28,  126 
1  Ceresine  stains,  67,  68 
j  Chamois  gloves,  washing  of,  207 
Chemical  cleaning  of  carpels,  35,  36 

value  of,  2 

examination  of  fibers,  261-268 
or  dry  cleaning,  1-46 
'  Cherry  stains,  70 
Chicken  feathers,  black  on,  180-182 
mordanting  of,  180,  181 
treatment  of,  with  chlorine, 

182 
Chloride  of  lime,  55,  56 

use  of,  for  stripping,  257 


Chlorinating,  165,  166 

Chlorine,  bleaching  straw  with,  191-194 


(269) 


2/0 


INDEX. 


Chlorine  combinations,  determination  of, 

Cotton,  maroon  on,  248,  249 

in  water,  84 

navy-blue  on,  250 

w  iter,  56 

old  gold  on,  24y 

Chlorotorm,  50,  51 

orange  on,  249 

Cincinnati  hand  extractor,  28,  29 

pink  on,  248 

Citric  acid,  56,  57,  81 

plum  on,  250 

Cleaning  agents,  4O-;8 
and  dyeing  leathers,  155-187 

sage-green  on,  249,  250 
salmon  on,  249 

gloves,  204-213 
furs,   skin   rugs    and    mats, 

scarlet  on,  248 
sky  blue  on.  250 

141-154 

violet  on,  250 

feathers,  155-157 

violet-blue  on,  250 

large  ostrich  feathers,  161,  162 

yellow  on,  249 

ostnch  feathers  in  bulk,  162 

Cream-colored  curtains,  treatment  of,  116 

Cloaks,  washing  of,  89,  90 

1  Cream  gloss,  i--8 

Coat,  cleaning  a,  67 

Curtain?,  finishing  of,  128,  129 

pressing  a,  132,  133 
Coits,  sta.im-board  tor,  130 
Coffee  stains.  70,  71 
Colored  curtains,  washing  of,  117 
Coloring  matter,  addition  01,  to  the  dye 

bath,  TOO 
Colois,  freshening  of,  96 

original,  colors  which  may  be  dyed 

on,  213,  216 

stripping  of.  from  garments  and  fab- 
rics, 254-258 
Copper  Main*,  217 
Corsets,  washing  of,  94 
Cotton    and    linen   garments   containing 

j-ite,  dyeing  of,  252,  253 
and  wool  goods,  mixed,  black  on,  244, 

mixed .  blue-black  on  ,245 
cornflower- blue     on, 

246 

crimson  on,  246 
dark  blue  on,  245 
brown  on,  245 
gnyon,  246 
green  on,  246 
sage  on,  247 
drab  on,  246 
d>  eing  of,  244-247 
orange  on.  246 
peacock  green  on,  247 
sage  brown  on,  246, 

247 

scarlet  on,  246 
slate  on,  246 
black  on,  251 
blue  on,  250 
brown  on,  250,  251 
chestnut-brown  on,  251 
claret  oiv,  248 
cream  on,  249 
crimson-red  on,  248 
detection  of,  267 

in  woolen  fabrics,  268 
fiber  of.  259 

garments,  washing  of,  93,  94 
goid-biown  on,  251 
goods,  dyeing  of,  147-251 
gray  on.  251 
green  on,  249,  250 
in  linen,  detection  of,  267 


washing  of,  115-117 

Cyanide  of  potassium,  use  of,  for  strip- 
ping, 256 

T)EODORIZATION  of  benzine,  38,  39 
-'-'     Direct    dyes,   dyeing   cotton    with, 

247,  248 
Distillation,  purification  of  benzine  by, 

Dog  skins,  141 

Draining,  ve.-,-el  for,  24 

Dressing  for  ladies'  garments,  133,  134 

white  embroideries,  128 
of  feathers,  156 
Dressings,  136-138 
Dry-cleaning,  advantages  of,  3,  4 
apparatus  for,  22 
arrangements  for  working  on  a 

larger  scale,  25-27 
articles  less  suitable  for,  19 
not  si-inble  for,  19 
suitable  lor,  19 
cleaning  process  in,  19-36 
dangers   ot   benzine   and   other 

solvents  in,  14-19 
liquids  available  lor,  3,  4 
preparation  of  garments  for,  20, 

process  of,  in  smaller  establish- 
ments, 22-24 
real  definition  of,  2,  3 
Drying  cylinder,  135 
drum,i86 
table,  135 

Duck  feathers,  dyeing  of,  183 
Dust  coats  cleaning  of,  58 

removal  of,  from  garments,  20 
stains.  63 

Dyeing  cotton  and  linen  garments  con- 
taining jute,  252,  253 
goods,  247-251 
fancy  feathers,  177-185 
feathers.  157-187 
kid  gloves,  208-213 
mixed  cotton  and  wool  goods,  244-247 
ost  ich  feathers,  161-177 
silks,  216 
Slr;.w,  198-203 
wool  and  silk  fabrics,  229-231 


INI 

Dyeing  woolen  garments  and  fabrics,  232- 
244 
Dyes  auing  equally  on   wool  and  silk, 
229,230 
bleeding  of,  112 
for  dyeing  jute,  252 
having  a  stronger  affinity  for  wool,  230 

EAU  de  Javelle,  55  . 
preparation  of,  ic8,  109 
Electrical  sparks,  ignition  of  benzine  by, 

Embroideries,  colored,  cleaning  of,  107- 

finishing  of,  127,  128 
on  linen,  washing  of,  113-115 
white,  dressing  for,  128 
English  scouring  fluid,  62 
Ether,  4Q,  so 
Etheiiztd  magnesia,  66 

>EX.                                           2/1 

Garments,  constitution  of  stains  in,  3 
cotton   and    linen,   containing   jute, 
dyeing  of,  252,  253 
damp  places  in,  21 
dark,  washing  of,  88-90 
ladies',  finishing  of,  133-136 
washing  of,  92-97 
lined,  removing  stains  from,  58 
men's,  finishing  of,  129-133 
piessmg  ol,  132,  133 
wet-washing  ot,  87-92 
preparation  of,  for  dry-cleaning,  20, 

21 

removing  dust  from,  20 
souring  of.  88,  89 
testing  of,  for  re-dyeing,  214 
woolen,  preparation  ot,  for  dyeing, 
235.  236 
sorting  01,  235 
washing  ol,  235,  236 
Gasoline,  danger  iu  the  use  of,  15 
Gauntlets,  cleaning  of,  208 
Gelatine  stains,  72 
Gelatinized  benzine,  65,  66 
German  turpentine,  10 
Gloria,  dyeing  ol,  229-231 
Gloss  starch,  137,  138 
Gloves,  black  on,  209 
blue  on,  21  1,  212 
brown  on,  209,  210,  212 

FAT  bath  for  gloves,  206 
Feathers,  bleaching  of,  157 
cleaning  and  dyeing  of,  155-187 

dyed,  drying  ,>f,  185-187 
dyeing  ol,  157-177 
fancy,  decolorizing  of,  178,  179 
definition  ol,  177 

freeing  tiom  lat,  179 
washing  ol,  178 
white,  treatment  of,  179,  180 
natural  white,   re-whitening  of, 
156,  157   f 
purifying  of,  155,  156 
utensils  used  in  dyeing,  158,  159 
Felt  hats,  cleaning  of,  ro6 

fat  bath  lor,  206 
gray  on,  210 

morocco-red  on,  210 
red  on,  2ir 
restoring  lustre  lo,  204 
silk,  washing  of,  107 
violet  on,  211 
yellow  on,  212 
Glue  stains,  72 
Glycerine,  53 
Goat  skins,  141 
Gold  galloons,  cleaning  of,  119,  120 
laces,  washing  ol,  118,  119 
Goose  leathers,  dyeing  of,  183 
Grass  stains,  72 
Grease  stains,  64,  65 
smaller,  72 
upon  the  backs  of  garments,68 
very  old,  67 
Greasy  shine,  75 
Green  nut  stains,  72,  73 
Grouvelle's  bleaching  fluid,  56 
Gypsum,  determination  of,  in  water,  84 

TTALF-WOOL  garments,  washing  of, 

Handkerchiefs,  white  silk,  washing  ol,  107 
Hardness  of  water,  determination  ol,  85, 

Hasselbach's  method  of  clarifying  ben- 
zine, 38 
Hemp,  fiber  of,  »6o 
Hydrochloric  acid,  57,  80 
Hydro-extractors,  28,  126 

microscopical  examination  ol,  259-261 
textile,  basis  of,  261 
Fichus,  woolen,  finishing  of,  126,  127 
Filtering  benzine,  36 
Finishing  cleaned  fabrics,  125-140 
Fire,  means  of  extinguishing,  16 
-proofing  fabrics,  140 
Flannel  undershirts,  washing  of,  106 
Flax,  fibre  oi,  259,  260 
French  earth,  60 

Fruit  stains,  69 
Furs,  cleaning  and  dyeing  of,  141-154 
examination  ol,  141 
Fusel  oil,  53 

f<  ALLOONS,  gold  and  silver,  washing 

•*        Of,  lig,  120 

Garment  dyeing,  214-253 
-dyers,  directions  for  the  removal  of 
stains  for,  80-82 
dressings  for,  136-138 
Garments  and  fabrics,   stripping  colors 
from,  254-258 
woolen,  dyeing  of, 
232-244 

2/2 


INDEX. 


Hydrogen  peroxide,  bleaching  with,  100- 


Mordant  dyes,  dyeing  with,  234,  235 
Mordants,  234 


straw  with,  197      Morning  dresses,  cleaning  of,  58 

preservatives  tor,  102               Mottled  soaos.  82 

use  of,  for  stripping,  256, 

Hypochlorites,  bleaching  straw  with,  194, 

"VTITRATE  of  silver  stains,  75 
-L'     Nitric  acid,  detection  ot,  in  water, 

Hyposulphite  of  sodium,  54,  55 

84,85 
stains,  73 

INK  stains,  75-78 
removal  of,  from  kid  gloves,  205 
Iron,  detection  of,  in  water,  85 
Iron  stains,  78 

OLEATES,       acid,       water-absorbing 
power  of,  6 
soluble    in    benzine,  classification 
of,  6 

TUDLIN,  M.,  discovery  of  the  deter- 
J      gent  poweis  of  benzine  by,  I 
Jute,  bleaching  of,  104,  105 
detection  of,  267 
dyeing  cotton  and    linen    garments 

Ostrich  feathers,  admiral  on,  171 

h        h                    68 

black  on,  165-167 
bordered,  174-177 
bronze  on,  167,  168 
buton  d'or  on,  169 

containing,  252,  253 

dyes  for,  252 
fiber  of,  260 

coq  roche  on,  169 
cream  on,  168 

KETTLE  stains,  217 
Kid  gloves,  cleaning  of.  204-207 
dyeing  of,  208-213 
Kingfisher  skins,  dyeing  of,  184 
Kopp's  method  of  determining  vegetable 
fibers  in  wool  and  silk  tissue,  264 

dark  mirror,  light  border  on, 

decolorizing  of,  162,  163 
dull,  fiery  tones  on,  171 
dyeing  of,  161-177 
etna  on,  171 
freeing  from  grease,  163,  164 

gold  on,  169,  170 

LACES,  finishing  of,  127,  128 

bronze  on,  168 

gold,  washing  of,  118,  119 

gray-blue  on,  172 

silk,  washing  of,  118,  119 
silver,  washing  of,  118,  119 

green-blue  on,  172 
bronze  on,  167,  168 

washing  of,  113-115 

heliotrope  on,  109 

Lactophenine,  102 

in  bulk,  cleaning  of,  162 

Ladies'  gaiments,  finishing  of,  133-136 

ivory  on,  168 

washing  of,  92-97 

large,  cleaning  of,  161,  162 

Lard  stains,  67,  68 

light  mirror,  dark  border  on, 

Laundrymen,  dressings  for,  136-138 
Leopard  skins,  141 

,    174,  175 
loutre  on,  172 

Liebig,  remark  by,  i 

maize  on,  168 

Lime,  chloride  of,  55,  56 

mandarin  on,  169 

detection  of,  in  water,  85 

maroon  on,  172 

stains,  73 

navy  on,  171 

Linen,  detection  of,  267 

old  gold  on,  169,  170 

cotton  in,  267 

olive  on,  171 

Lion  skins,  141 

bron/e  on,  168 

Lustre  garments,  washing  of,  96,  97 

ombre  on,  172-174 

Lye  stains,  73 

pale  blue  on,  169 

parme  on,  169 

MAGNESIA,  benzinized,  65 

etherized,  66 

rose  on,  168 

Magpie  skins,  dyeing  of,  184 

russe  on,  171,  172 

Man's  coat,  pressing  a,  132,  133 

salmon  on,  168 

Mats,  cleaning  and  dyeing  of,  141-154 
Men's  garments,  finishing  ot,  129—133 

shading  box  lor  dyeing,  173 
tricolored,  172-174 

pressing  of,  132,  133 
removal  of  greasy  shine  from, 

vesuve  on,  171 
vieux  rose  on,  171 

75 

white,  treatment  of,  164 

wet  washing  of,  87-92 

Overcoats,  washing  of,  89,  90 

Microscopical  examination  of  fibers,  259- 

Oxalic  acid,  57,  81 

201 

Ox-gall,  57,  58,  82 

Milk  stains,  70,  71 

preservation  of,  61 

INDEX. 


273 


PAINT  stains,  68 
Pantaloons,  pressing  of,  133 
steam-board  for,  130 

Paraffiae  stains,  67,  68 

Parasols,  cleaning  of,  120-122 

Parrot  leathers,  dyeing  of,  184 

Peacock  feathers,  dyeing  of,  183 

Peroxides,  bleaching  with,  100-104 

Perspiration  stains,  73-75 

Petroleum  spirit,  4-8 

Phenacetine,  102 

Pigeon  feathers,  dyeing  of,  183 

Plaster  of  Paris,  59 

Plush  articles,  finishing  of,  128,  129 
removal  of  stains  in,  58 

Polar  bear  skins,  141 

Potassium  acid  oxalate  of,  57 

cyanide,  use  of,  for  stripping,  256 
permanganate,  bleaching  with,  99,100 
use  of,  for  stripping,  257 

Puff  irons,  135.  136 

Punch  stains,  72 

Purification  of  benzine,  36—46 

QUILLAIA  bark,  extraction  of,  91 
washing  men's  clothes 
with,  90-92 

T>  A  B  BIT  skins,  141 

-L*      Rain-coats,  cleaning  of.  58 

Ramsey's  bleaching  fluid,  56 

Raw  silk  garments,  washing  of,  96 

Red  wine  stains,  70 

Resin  stains,  68,  69 

Richter,    M.,   discovery    of   antibenzin- 

pyrin  by,  6 

Rug,  restoring  the  dressing  of  a,  35 
Russian  turpentine,  10 
Rust  stains,  78 

removal  of,  from  kid  gloves,  205 

SALT  of  sorrel,  57 
Satin,  cleaning  of,  64 
Scarfs,  ladies'  washing  of,  no 
Schweitzer's  reagent,  262 
Schwemmer's  scouring  fluid,  63 
Scouring  fluids,  62,  63 
pencils,  62,  63 
table,  29 
water,  58,  59 
Seal  skins,  141 
Shading  box,  173 
Shawls,  silk,  finishing  of,  127 

woolen,  finishing  of,  126,  127 
Sheepskins,  bleaching  of,  149 
"  Shot  "  effects,  production  of,  231 
Silk,  alkaline  blue  on,  224 

and  wool,  dyes  which  act  equally  on, 
229,  230 
ripping  mixtures  of.  256 


articles,   light   colored,   w 

105.  106 

washing  of,  ?4 

bleaching  of,  102-104 

Bordeaux  red  on,  221,  222 

bright  green  on,  226 

18 


Silk,  bright  scarlets  on,  222 
carail  on.  223 

chemical  examination  of,  262,  263 
cherry  red  on,  222 
ciel  on,  223 

cinnamon-brown  on,  227 
cleaning  of.  64 

cloths,  colored  washing  of,  107 
coffee-brown  on,  220,  221 
cream  on,  223 
crimson  on,  222 
dark  brown  on,  220 
deeper  bluish-reds  on,  222 
detection  of,  267 
dull  fiery  tones  on,  226 

i  yellow-green  on,  227 

embroideries,  cleaning  of,  107-109 
fabrics,  washing  of,  97-100 

fancy  colors  and  intermediate  tones 
on,  228,  229 

fiber  of,  260 

gloves,  washing  of,  107 

goods,  cleaning  and  stripping  of,  217 
dry-cleaning  of,  30 
testing  of,  for  strength,  217 

gray  on,  225 

green  on,  226 

greenish-yellow  on,  228 

gold  on,  221 

handkerchiefs,  washing  of,  107 

heliotrope  on,  224,  225 

in  wool,  detection  of  265,  266 

laces,  black,  finishing  of,  128 
washing  of,  118,  119 

mauve  on,  228 

moss-green  on,  227 

navy-blue  on,  224 

olive  on,  227 

orange  on,  228 

pale  blue  on,  223 

pea-green  on.  226 

prune  on,  225 

rose  color  on,  223 

salmon  rose  on,  223 

scarlet  on,  222 

shawls,  washing  of,  no 

silver  gray  on,  225 

soap  for  the  removing  o<  stains  from, 
61 

stockings,  washing  of,  107 

stripping  of,  255,  256 

tobacco-brown  on,  221 

vesuve  on .  226 

wood-gray  on,  225,  226 

yellow  on,  227 

1  Silks,  colored,  cleaning  of,  31 
Silver  galloons,  washing  of,  119,  '*> 

laces,  washing  of,  118,  119 
Size,  removal  of,  from  .otton  goods,  247 
Skin  rugs,  cleaning  and  dyeing  of,  i4i-'54 
of,     Skins,  black  on,  149,  151-  '52 

brown  on,  149,  152,  '53 

chestnut  on,  153 

cleaned  and  dyeH,  drying  of,  154 

dyeing  of,  with  the  L  rsols,  149,  15° 

golden  on,  154 


2/4 


INDEX. 


Skins,  gray  on,  149 

Straw  hats,  cleaning  of,  188,  189 

green  on.  154 

Havanu-brown  on,  200 

kingfishers',  dyeing  of,  184 

maroon  on,  201 

magpies',  dyeing  ot,  184 

medium  brown  on,  200 

maroon  on,  154 
orange  on,  154 

myrtle  green  on,  203 
preparation  of  for  bleaching,  189,  190 

restoration  of,  143 

silver-gray  on,  199,  203 

russet  on,  153 

tobacco-brown  on,  202 

scarlet  on,  154 

violet  on,  201 

silver  gray  on,  154 
Smyrna  rugs,  chemical  cleaning  of,  35 
Soap,  addition  of,  to  benzine,  5,  6,  18 
for  the  removal  of  all  kinds  of  stains,6i 
stains  from    calico, 

yellow  on,  201 
Stripping  colors  from  garments  and  fab- 
rics, 254-258 
Sugar  stains,  72 
Sulphur  stains,  99 

62 

Sulphuric  acid,  80 

stains  from  silk,  61 

purification  of  benzine  with, 

wine    and    vinegar 
stains,  60,  61 

Sulphurous  acid/8o,  81 

mottled,  82 

bleaching  straw  with,  195, 

soft  potash,  81 

196 

use  of,  for  removing  stains,  48,  49 
Soda,  carbonate  of,  82 
Sodium  hyposulphite,  54,  55 

Suede  gloves,  cleaning  of,  208 
Sweaters,  washing  of,  106 

use  of,  for  stripping,  257,  258 
peroxide,  bleaching  with,  102-104,  179 

fFABLE  covers,  small,  washing  of,  109, 

Soft  potash  soap.  82 

giving  best   means  for  removing 

Sorrel,  salt  of,  57 

stains,  79 

.Soup  stains.  72 

Talcum  powder,  59 

Souring,  88,  89 

Tallow  stains,  67,  68 

Squirrel  skins,  141 

Tampion,  22 

Stains,  constitution  of,  3 

Tannin  stains,  72,  73 

directions  for  the  removal  of,  for  the 

Tar  stains,  68,  69 

garment-dyer,  80-82 

Tartaric  acid,  56 

nature  of,  47 

Terre  de  Sauniere,  60 

of  unknown  derivation,  63 

Tetrachlorornethane,  11-14 

operation  of  removing,  59 
removing  of,  47-82 

Textile  fabrics,  analysis  of,  259-268 
Tiger  skins,  141 

rings  formed  in  removing,  60 

Tin  salt,  55 

soap  for  the  removal  of  all  kinds  of, 

Turkey  leathers,  dveing  of,  182,  183 

61 

Turpentine,  9-11 

table  giving  best  means  of  removing, 

properties  of,  10 

79 

varieties  of,  10 

tools  for  the  removal  of,  48 

Tussah  silk,  detection  of,  267 

Stannous  chloride,  55 

fiber  of,  260 

Starch,  gloss,  137,  138 

preparation  for  curtains,  129 
Steam,  80 

URINE  stains,  92 
Ursols,  dyeing  skins  with,  149,  150 

boards,  129,  130 

-generators,  40 

VARNISH  stains,  68 

table,  131 

V      Veils,  washing  of,  117,  118 

Steamers  for  velvet,  34,  35 
Steaming  board,  33 

Velvet,  genuine,  dyeing  of,  229 
goods,  real,  cleaning  and  renovating 

Stearin  stains,  69 

of,  32-35 

Stills,  benzine,  41-46 

removal  of  stains  in,  58 

Stockings,  white  silk,  washing  of,  107 

steamers,  34,  35 

Straw,  beige  on,  202 

steaming  of,  33,  34 

black  on,  198,  199 

Vineear  stains   soao  for  the  removal  of 

bleaching  of,  189-197 

60,  61  ' 

brown  on,  200 

cardinal  on,  203 
catechu-brown  on,  200,  201 

"WfAGON  grease  stains,  68,  69 
'      Waistcoats,  pressing  of,  133 

chestnut-brown  on,  199 

washing  of,  89 

dark  green  on,  203 

Washing,  27-32 

marine  blue  on,  203 
gendarme  blue  on,  202,  203 
'  hats,  bleaching  and  dyeing  of,  188-203 

ladies'  garments,  92-97 
machine,  hand-power,  27 
power-driven,  25-27 

INDEX.                                           275 

Water,  83-87 
agents  for  the  absorption  of,  59,  60 
hard,  softening  of,  86 
hardness  of,  85,  86 
importance  of,  in  wet-cleaning,  83 

Wool,  dyeing  of,  with  acid  dyes,  223 
basic  dyestuffs,  233 
mordant  dyes,  234,  235 
dyes  having  a  stronger  affinity  for, 
230 

-proofing  fabrics,  138,  139 

emerald  green  on,  241 

purification  and  testing  of,  84-87 
removal  of,  from  wet  fabrics,  125,  126 

fabrics,  white,  washing  of,  97-100 
fiber  oi,  260,  261 

Wax  stains,  67,  68,  69 

gray  on,  238 

Wet-cleaning,  83-124 

green  on,  241 

importance   of   pure  and   soft 

golden-yellow  on,  240 

water  in,  83 

in  silk,  detection  of,  265,  266 

Wet-washing  men's  garments,  87-92 
White  goods,  dry-cleaning  of,  30,  31 

logwood  black  on,  238 
maroon  on,  239 

removal  of  stains  from,  48,  49 

mauve  on,  243 

Whortleberry  stains,  70 

medium-green  on,  241 

Wilson's  bleaching  fluid,  56 

navy-blue  on,  242 

Wine  stains,  70,  72 

olive-brown  on,  243 

soap  for  the  removal  of,  60,  61 

olive-green  on,  241 

vinegar  stains,  73 
Wool  and  silk,  dyes  which  act  equally 
on,  229,  230 

orange  on,  240 
pale  orange  on,  240 
peacock-blue  on,  242 

embroideries,  cleaning  of, 

pearl-gray  on,  238 

109 

ponceau  on,  239 

stripping  mixtures  of,  256  1          reddish  orange  on,  240 

tissue,   determination     of 

sage-green  on,  241 

vegetable  fibers  in,  263, 

scarlet  on,  239 

264 

seal  on,  243 

articles,   light  colored,   washing  of, 

silvM  gray  on,  238 

105,  1  06 

terracotta-red  on,  239 

black  on,  236-238 

violet  on,  242,  243 

blue  on,  241,  242                             .       j                 black  on,  237 

blue-black  on,  236,  237,  238,  242 

walnut  on,  243,  244 

Bordeaux  red  on,  239,  240 

yellow  on,  240 

bottle-green  on,  241 

brown  on,  243 

bright  green  on,  241 
orange  on,  240 

Woolen  cloth,  detection  of  cotton  in,  267 
fabrics,  detection  of  cotton  in,  268 

red  on,  240 

garments  and  fabrics,  dyeing  of,  232- 

yellow  on,  240 
brown  on,  243,  244 

244 
preparation  of,  for  dyeing,  235, 

black  on,  237 
chemical  examination  of,  262 
cherry  red  on,  239 
chromotrop  black  on,  238 
claret  red  on,  240 

washing  of,  95,  96 
goods,  cleaning  of,  64 
dry-cleaning  of,  30 
undergarments,  washing  of,  106 

crimson  on,  239                                        Woolens,  stripping  of,  256,  257 
dark  gray  on,  238                                       Working  room,  lighting  of,  14 

dead  black  on,  237 

deep  red  on,  239                                        yOLK  of  egg,  82 
deep  yellow  on,  240 

diamond  black  on,  227 

OF 


ical  and  {Scientific  Boolp 

PUBLISHED  BY 

HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  Co. 

INDUSTRIAL  PUBLISHERS,  BOOKSELLERS  AND  IMPORTERS. 

810  Walnut  Street,  Philadelphia. 


*S-  Any  of  the  Books  comprised  in  this  Catalogue  will  he  sent  hy  mail.frwrf 
postage,  to  any  address  in  the  world,  at  the  publication  prices, 

IS"  A  Descriptive  Catalogue,  90  pages,  8vo.,  will  he  sent  free  and  free  of  postag% 
to  any  one  in  any  part  of  the  world,  who  will  furnish  his  address. 

•V  Where  not  otherwise  stated,  all  of  the  Books  in  this  Catalogue  are  bouid 
in  muslin, 


AMATEUR  MECHANICS'  WORKSHOP: 

A  treatise  containing  plain  and  concise  directions  for  the  manipula- 
tion of  Wood  and  Metals,  including  Casting,  Forging,  Brazing, 
Soldering  and  Carpentry.  By  the  author  of  the  "  Lathe  and  111 
Uses."  Seventh  edition.  Illustrated.  STO.  .  .  .  $2.54 

ANDES.— Animal  Fats  and  Oils: 

Their  Practical  Production,  Purification  and  Uses;  their  Properties 
Falsification  and  Examination.  62  illustrations.  8vo.  .  $4.00 

ANDES.— Vegetable  Fats  and  Oils: 

Their  Practical  Preparation,  Purification  and  Employment;  their 
Properties,  Adulteration  and  Examination.  94  illustrations.  Svo, 

$4.00 

ARLOT.— A  Complete  Guide  for  Coach  Painters : 

Translated  from  the  French  or  M.  ARLOT,  Coach  Painter,  for 
eleven  years  Foreman  of  Pain.mg  to  M.  Eherler,  Coach  Maker, 
Paris.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  To  which  it 
added  an  Appendix,  containing  Information  resnecting  the  Materials 
and  the  Practice  of  Coach  and  Car  Painting  wd  Varnishing  in  th« 
United  States  and  Great  Britain  J2mo.  .  •  • 

(I) 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


ARMENGAUD,  AMOROUX,  AND  JOHNSON.— The  Practi- 
cal  Draughtsman's  Book  of   Industrial  Design,  and   Ma- 
chinist's  and  Engineer's  Drawing  Companion  : 
Farming  a  Complete  Course  of  Mechanical   Engineering  and  Archi- 
tectural Drawing.     From  the  French  of  M   Armengaud  the  elder, 
.    Prof,  of  Design  in  the  Conservatoire  of  Arts  and  Industry,  Paris,  and 
MM.  Armengaud  the  younger,  and  Amoroux,  Civil  Engineers.     Re- 
written and  arranged  with  additional  matter  and  plates,  selections  from 
and  examples  of  the  most  useful  and  generally  employed  mechanism 
of  the  day.     By  WILLIAM  JOHNSON,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E.     Illustrated 
by  fifty  folio  steel  plates,  and  fifty  wood-cuts.     A  new  edition,  410,, 

cloth.        . #6.00 

ARMSTRONG.— The  Construction  and  Management  of  Steam 

Boilers : 

By  R.  ARMSTRONG,  C.  E.  With  an  Appendix  by  ROBERT  MALLET, 
C.  E.,  F.  R.  S.  Seventh  Edition.  Illustrated,  i  vol.  I2mo.  .60 

ARROWSMITH.— The  Paper-Hanger's  Companion: 

Comprising  Tools,  Pastes,  Preparatory  Work  ;  Selection  and  Hanging 
of  Wall- Papers  ;  Distemper  Painting  and  Cornice-Tinting  ;  Stencil 
Work ;  Replacing  Sash-Cord  and  Broken  Window  Panes  ;  and 
Useful  Wrinkles  and  Receipts,  By  JAMES  ARROWSMITH.  A  New, 
Thoroughly  Revised,  and  Much  Enlarged  Edition.  Illustrated  by 
25  engravings,  162  pages.  (1905)  ....  $1.00 

ASHTON. — The  Theory  and  Practice  of  the  Art  of  Designing 

Fancy  Cotton  and  Woollen  Cloths  from  Sample  : 
Giving  full  instructions  for  reducing  drafts,  as  well  as  the  methods  of 
spooling  and  making  out  harness  for  cross  drafts  and  finding  any  re- 
quired reed;  with  calculations  and  tables  of  yarn.  By  FREDERIC  T. 
ASHTON,  Designer,  West  Pittsfield,  Mass.  With  fifty-two  illustrations. 
One  vol.  folio  #5-O° 

ASKINSON.— Perfumes  and  their  Preparation  : 

A  Comprehensive  Treatise  on  Perfumery,  containing  Complete 
Directions  for  Making  Handkerchief  Perfumes,  Smelling-Salts, 
Sachets,  Fumigating  Pastils ;  Preparations  for  the  Care  of  the  Skin, 
the  Mouth,  the  Hair;  Cosmetics,  Hair  Dyes,  and  other  Toilet 
Articles.  By  G.  W.  ASKINSON.  Translated  from  the  German  by  IsiDOR 
FURST.  Revised  by  CHARLES  RICE.  32  Illustrations.  8vo.  #3.00 

BRQNGNIART.— Coloring  and  Decoration  of  Ceramic  Ware. 
8vc. #2-5° 

BAIRD. — The  American  Cotton  Spinner,  and  Manager's  and 

Carder's  Guide: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Cotton  Spinning ;  giving  the  Dimensions  and 
Speed  of  Machinery,  Draught  and  Twist  Calculations,  etc. ;  with 
notices  of  recent  Improvements :  together  with  Rules  and  Examples 
ror  making  changes  in  the  sizes  and  numbers  of  Roving  and  Yarn. 
Compiled  from  the  papers  of  the  late  ROBERT  H.  BAIRD.  i2mo. 


^  HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.  3 

BAKER.— Long-Span  Railway  Bridges  : 

Comprising  Investigations  of  the  Comparative  Theoretical  and 
Practical  Advantages  of  the  various  Adopted  or  Proposed  Type 
Systems  of  Construction  ;  with  numerous  Formulae  and  Tables.  By 
B.  BAKER.  i2mo $1.00 

BRANNT.— A    Practical    Treatise  on   Distillation  and  Rec- 
tification of  Alcohol : 

Comprising  Raw  Materials  ;  Production  of  Malt,  Preparation  of 
Mashes  and  of  Yeast ;  Fermentation  ;  Distillation  and  Rectification 
and  Purification  of  Alcohol  ;  Preparation  of  Alcoholic  Liquors, 
Liqueurs,  Cordials,  Bitters,  Fruit  Essences,  Vinegar,  etc. ;  Examina- 
tion of  Materials  for  the  Preparation  of  Malt  as  well  as  of  the  Malt 
itself;  Examination  of  Mashes  before  and  after  Fermentation  ;  Alco- 
holometry,  with  Numerous  Comprehensive  Tables  ;  and  an  Appendix 
on  the  Manufacture  of  Compressed  Yeast  and  the  Examination  of 
Alcohol  and  Alcoholic  Liquors  for  Fusel  Oil  and  other  Impurities. 
By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT,  Editor  of  "  The  Techno-Chemical  Receipt 
Book."  Second  Edition.  Entirely  Rewritten.  Illustrated  by  105 
engravings.  460  pages,  8vo.  (Dec.,  1903)  .  .  .  $4.00 

BARR.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Combustion  of  Coal : 
Including  descriptions  of  various   mechanical  devices  for  the  Eco- 
nomic Generation  of  Heat  by  the  Combustion  of  Fuel,  whether  solid, 
liquid  or  gaseous.    8vo.    ....•••         $2.50 

BARR.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  High  Pressure  Steam  Boilers: 
Including  Results  of  Recent  Experimental  Tests  of  Boiler  Materials, 
together  with  a  description  of  Approved  Safety  Apparatus,  Steam 
Pumps,  Injectors  and  Economizers  in  actual  use.  By  WM.  M.  BARR. 
204  Illustrations.  8vo $3-°O 

BAUERMAN.— A  Treatise  on  the  Metallurgy  of  Iron  : 

Containing  Outlines  of  the  History  of  Iron  Manufacture,  Methods  of 
Assay,  and  Analysis  of  Iron  Ores,  Processes  of  Manufacture  of  Iron 
and  Steel,  etc.,  etc.  By  H.  BAUERMAN,  F.  G.  S.,  Associate  of  the 
Royal  School  of  Mines.  Fifth  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged. 
Illustrated  with  numerous  Wood  Engravings  from  Drawings  by  J.  B. 
JORDAN.  I2mo, $2.0® 

BRANNT.— The  Metallic  Alloys  :  A  Practical  Guide 

For  the  Manufacture  of  all  kinds  of  Alloys,  Amalgams,  and  Solders, 
used  by  Metal-Workers  :  together  with  their  Chemical  and  Physical 
Properties  and  their  Application  in  the  Arts  and  the  Industries  ;  with 
an  Appendix  on  the  Coloring  of  Alloys  and  the  Recovery  of  Waste 
Metals.  By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  34  Engravings.  A  New,  R< 
vised,  and  Enlarged  Edition.  554  pages.  8vo.  .  .  #4-5° 

BEANS.— A  Treatise  on  Railway  Curves  and   Location   ol 

Railroads  : 
By  E.  W.  BEANS,  C.  E.     Illustrated.     I2mo.     Tucks.     .        £1.50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


BELL.— Carpentry  Made  Easy: 

Or,  The  Science  and  Art  of  Framing  on  a  New  and  Improved 
System.  With  Specific  Instructions  for  Building  Balloon  Frames,  Barn 
Frames,  Mill  Frames,  Warehouses,  Church  Spires,  etc.  Comprising 
also  a  System  of  Bridge  Building,  with  Bills,  Estimates  of  Cost,  and 
valuable  Tables.  Illustrated  by  forty-four  plates,  comprising  nearly 
200  figures.  By  WILLIAM  E.  BELL,  Architect  and  Practical  Builder. 

8vo. .         .         .         55.00 

BEMROSE. — Fret-Cutting  and  Perforated  Carving: 

With  fifty-three  practical  illustrations.     By  W.  BEMROSE,  JR.     I  vol. 

quarto $2.$9 

BEMROSE.— Manual  of  Buhl-work  and  Marquetry: 

With  Practical  Instructions  for  Learners,  and  ninety  colored  designs, 
By  W.  BEMROSE,  JR.     i  vol.  quarto          ....        $3.00 
BEMROSE.— Manual  of  Wood  Carving: 

With  Practical  Illustrations  for  Learners  of  the  Art,  ?.nd  Original  and 
Selected  Designs.  By  WILLIAM  BEMROSE,  JR.  With  an  Intro 
duction  by  LLEWELLYN  JEWITT,  F.  S.  A.,  etc.  With  128  illustra- 
tions, 410. $2.50 

BERSCH.— Cellulose,  Cellulose  Products,  and  Rubber  Sub- 
stitutes : 

Comprising     the    Preparation    of    Cellulose,    Parchment-Cellulose, 
Methods  of  Obtaining  Sugar,  Alcohol  and  Oxalic  Acid  from  Wood- 
Cellulose  ;     Production    of   Nitro-Cellulose    and    Cellulose    Esters ; 
Manufacture  of  Artificial  Silk,  Viscose,  Celluloid,   Rubber   Substi- 
tutes, Oil-Rubber,  and  Faktis.      By  DR.  JOSEPH  BERSCH.     Trans- 
lated by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.     41  illustrations.      (1904.)     £3.00 
BILLINGS.— Tobacco : 

Its  History,  Variety,  Culture,  Manufacture,  Commerce,  and  Various 
Modes  of  Use.     By  E.   R.   BILLINGS.     Illustrated  by  nearly  200 
engravings.     8vo.      .          .          .          .          .          .          .          .      $3.00 

BIRD. — The  American  Practical  Dyers'  Companion  : 

Comprising  a  Description  of  the  Principal  Dye- Stuffs  and  Chemicals 
used  in  Dyeing,  their  Natures  and  Uses  ;  Mordants  and  How  Made  ; 
with  the  best  American,  English,  French  and  German  processes  for 
Bleaching  and  Dyeing  Silk,  Wool,  Cotton,  Linen,  Flannel,  Felt, 
Dress  Goods,  Mixed  and  Hosiery  Yarns,  Feathers,  Grass,  Felt,  Fur, 
Wool,  and  Straw  Hats,  Jute  Yarn,  Vegetable  Ivory,  Mats,  Skins, 
Furs,  Leather,  etc.,  etc.  By  Wood  Aniline,  and  other  Processes, 
together  with  Remarks  on  Finishing  Agents,  and  instructions  in  the 
Finishing  of  Fabrics,  Substitutes  for  Indigo,  Water-Proofing  of 
Materials,  Tests  and  Purification  of  Water,  Manufacture  of  Aniline 
and  other  New  Dye  Wares,  Harmonizing  Colors,  etc.,  etc.  ;  embrac- 
ing in  all  over  800  Receipts  for  Colors  and  Shades,  accompanied  by 
170  Dyed  Samples  of  Raw  Materials  and  Fabrics.  By  F.  J.  BIRD, 
Practical  Dyer,  Author  of  "  The  Dyers'  Hand-Book."  8vo.  $7.50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE, 


BLINN.— A  Practical  Workshop  Companion  for  Tin,  Sheet- 

Iron,  and  Copper-plate  Workers : 

Containing  Rules  Tor  describing  various  kinds  of  Patterns  used  by 
Ti»,  Sheet-Iron  and  Copper-plate  Workers;  Practical  Geometry; 
Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids ;  Tables  of  the  Weights  of 
Metals,  Lead-pipe,  etc.;  Tables  of  Areas  and  Circumferencei 
of  Circles ;  Japan,  Varnishes,  Lackers,  Cements,  Compositions,  etc., 
etc.  By  LEROY  J.  BLINN,  Master  Mechanic.  With  One  Hundred 
and  Seventy  Illustrations.  I2mo $2-59 

BOOTH.— Marble  Worker's  Manual:  ^ 

Containing  Practical  Information  respecting  Marbles  in  general,  theit 
Cutting,  Working  and  Polishing ;  Veneering  of  Marble ;  Mosaics ; 
Composition  and  Use  of  Artificial  Marble,  Stuccos,  Cements,  Receipts, 
Secrets,  etc.,  etc.  Translated  from  the  French  by  M.  L.  BOOTH. 
With  an  Appendix  concerning  American  Marbles.  I2mo.,  cloth 

BRANNT.— A    Practical   Treatise  on  Animal  and  Vegetablf 
Fats  and  Oils : 

Comprising  both  Fixed  and  Volatile  Oils,  their  Physical  and  Chem- 
ical Properties  and  Uses,  the  Manner  of  Extracting  and  Refining 
them,  and  Practical  Rules  for  Testing  them ;  as  well  as  the  Manufac- 
ture of  Artificial  Butter  and  Lubricants,  etc.,  with  lists  of  American 
Patents  relating  to  the  Extraction,  Rendering,  Refining,  Decomposing, 
and  Bleaching  of  Fats  and  Oils.  By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT,  Editor 
of  the  "  Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book."  Second  Edition,  Revised 
and  in  a  great  part  Rewritten.  Illustrated  by  302  Engravings.  In 

Two  Volumes.     1304  pp.     8vo *"«*  $10.00 

BRANNT.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Soap 

and  Candles : 

Based  upon  the  most  Recent  Experiences  in  the  Practice  and  Science; 
comprising  the  Chemistry,  Raw  Materials,  Machinery,  and  Utensils 
and  Various  Processes  of  Manufacture,  including  a  great  variety  of 
formulas.  Edited  chiefly  from  the  German  of  Dr.  C.  Deite,  A. 
Engelhardt,  Dr.  C.  Schaedler  and  others ;  with  additions  and  list? 
of  American  Patents  relating  to  these  subjects.  By  WM.  T.  BRANNT. 
Illustrated  by  163  engravings.  677  pages.  8vo.  .  .  £12.50 

BRANNT.— India  Rubber,  Gutta-Percha  and  Balata  :    - 
Occurrence,  Geographical  Distribution,  and  Cultivation,  Obtaining 
and  Preparing  the  Raw  Materials,  Modes  of  Working  and  Utilizing 
them,  Including  Washing,  Maceration,  Mixing,  Vulcanizing, Rubber 
and  Gutta-Percha  Compounds,  Utilization  of  Waste,  etc.    By  YML 
IAM  T.  BRANNT.     Illustrated.     i2mo.     (1900.)        .       -       #3-oo 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


BRANNT— WAHL.— The  Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book: 

Containing  several  thousand  Receipts  covering  the  latest,  most  im- 
portant, and  most  useful  discoveries  in  Chemical  Technology,  and 
their  Practical  Application  in  the  Arts  and  the  Industries.  Edited 
chiefly  from  the  German  of  Drs.  Winckler,  Eisner,  Heintze,  Mier- 
zinski,  Jacobsen,  Roller  and  Heinzerling,  with  additions  by  WM.  T. 
BRANNT  and  WM.  H.  WAHL,  Ph.  D.  Illustrated  by  78  engravings, 
lamo.  495  pages.  .  .  .  .  .  .  $2.00 

BROWN.— Five  Hundred  and  Seven  Mechanical  Movements  : 
Embracing  all  those  which  are  most  important  in  Dynamics,  Hy- 
draulics, Hydrostatics,  Pneumatics,  Steam  Engines,  Mill  and  other 
Gearing,  Presses,  Horology,  and  Miscellaneous  Machinery ;  and  in- 
cluding many  movements  never  before  published,  and  several  of 
which  have  only  recently  come  into  use.  By  HENRY  T.  BROWN. 
I2mo.  .  . $1.00 

BUCKMASTER.— The  Elements  of  Mechanical  Physics  : 
By  J.   C.   BUCKMASTER.       Illustrated    with    numerous    engravings. 
iamo $I.OQ 

BULLOCK. — The  American  Cottage  Builder  : 
A  Series  of  Designs,  Plans  and  Specifications,  from  $200  to  $20,000, 
for  Homes  for  the  People ;  together  with  Warming,  Ventilation, 
Drainage,  Painting  and  Landscape  Gardening.  By  JOHN  BULLOCK, 
Architect  and  Editor  of  "  The  Rudiments  of  Architecture  and 
Building,"  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated  by  75  engravings.  8vo. 

BULLOCK.— The  Rudiments  of  Architecture  and  Building : 
For  the  use  of  Architects,  Builders,  Draughtsmen,  Machinists,  En- 
gineers and  Mechanics.     Edited  by  JOHN  BULLOCK,  author  of  "  The 
American  Cottage  Builder."  Illustrated  by  250  Engravings.  8vo.  $2.50 

BURGH. — Practical    Rules    for    the   Proportions   of     Modern 

Engines  and  Boilers  for  Land  and  Marine  Purposes. 
By  N.  P.  BURGH,  Engineer.      I2mo.  .          .          .          .         #1.50 

BYLES.— Sophisms    of    Free    Trade   and   Popular    Political 

Economy  Examined. 

By  a  BARRISTER  (SiR  JOHN  BARNARD  BYLES,  Judge  of  Common 
Pleas).  From  the  Ninth  English  Edition,  as  published  by  the 
Manchester  Reciprocity  Association.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $1.25 

BOWMAN.— The  Structure  of  the  Wool  Fibre  in  its  Relation 

to  the  Use  of  Wool  for  Technical  Purposes: 
Being  the  substance,  with  additions,  of  Five  Lectures,  delivered  at 
the  request  of  the  Council,  to  the  members  of  the  Bradford  Technical 
College,  and  the  Society  of  Dyers  and  Colorists.  By  F.  H.  BOW- 
MAN, D.  Sc.,  F.  R.  S.  E.,  F.  L.  S.  Illustrated  by  32  engravings. 
8vo $7-5° 

BYRNE.— Hand-Book  for  the  Artisan,  Mechanic,  and  Engi- 
neer : 

Comprising  the  Grinding  and  Sharpening  of  Cutting  Tools,  Abrasive 
Processes,  Lapidary  Work,  Gem  and  Glass  Engraving,  Varnishing 
and  Lackering,  Apparatus,  Materials  and  Processes  for  Grinding  and 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


Polishing,  etc.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  Illustrated  by  185  wood  en- 
gravings. 8vo.  ........  £5.00 

3YRNE.— Pocket-Book  for  Railroad  and  Civil  Engineers : 
Containing  New,  Exact  and  Concise  Methods  for  Laying  out  Railroad 
Curves,  Switches,  Frog  Angles  and  Crossings ;  the  Staking  out  of 
work ;  Levelling ;  the  Calculation  of  Cuttings :  Embankments ;  Earth- 
work, etc.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  i8mo.,  full  bound,  pocket-book 
form 

BYRNE.— Tne  Practical  Metal-Worker's  Assistant : 

Comprising  Metallurgic  Chemistry ;  the  Arts  of  Working  all  Metals 
and  Alloys;  Forging  of  Iron  and  Steel ;  Hardening  and  Tempering; 
Melting  and  Mixing;  Casting  and  Founding  ;  Works  in  Sheet  Metal; 
the  Processes  Dependent  on  the  Ductility  of  the  Metals;  Soldering; 
and  the  most  Improved  Processes  and  Tools  employed  by  Metal- 
workers. With  the  Application  of  the  Art  of  Electro-Metallurgy  to 
Manufacturing  Processes;  collected  from  Original  Sources,  and  from 
the  works  of  Holtzapffel,  Bergeron,  Leupold,  Plumier,  Napier, 
Scoffem,  Clay,  Fairbairn  and  others.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  A  new, 
revised  and  improved  edition,  to  which  is  added  an  Appendix,  con- 
taining  The  Manufacture  of  Russian  Sheet-Iron.  By  JOHN  PERCY, 
M.  D.,  F.  R.  S.  The  Manufacture  of  Malleable  Iron  Castings,  and 
Improvements  in  Bessemer  Steel.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and 
Engineer.  With  over  Six  Hundred  Engravings,  Illustrating  every 
Branch  of  the  Subject.  8vo #5-°0 

BYRNE.— The  Practical  Model  Calculator: 

For  the  Engineer,  Mechanic,  Manufacturer  of  Engine  Work,  Narai 
Archkect,  Miner  and  Millwright.  By  OLIVER  BYRNE.  8vo.,  nearly 
600  pages  ...  .  .  ...  (Scarce.) 

CABINET  MAKER'S  ALBUM  OF  FURNITURE'. 

Comprising  a  Collection  of  Designs  for  various  Styles  of  Furniture. 
Illustrated  by  Forty-eight  Large  and  Beautifully  Engraved  Plates. 
Oblong,  8vo '  .  .  .  #1.50 

CALLINGHAM.— Sign  Writing  and  Glass  Embossing: 

A  Complete  Practical  Illustrated  Manual  of  the  Art.  By  JAMES 
CALLINGHAM.  To  which  are  added  Numerous  Alphabets  and  the 
Art  of  Letter  Painting  Made  Easy.  By  JAMES  C.  BADENOCH.  258 
pages.  i2tno. $'-5° 

CAM  PIN. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  Mechanical  Engineering: 
Comprising  Metallurgy,  Moulding,  Casting,  Forging,  Tools,  Work, 
shop  Machinery,  Mechanical  Manipulation,  Manufacture  of  Steam- 
Engines,  etc.  With  an  Appendix  on  the  Analysis  of  Iron  and  Iron 
Ores.  By  FFANCIS  CAMPIN,  C.  E.  To  which  are  added,  Observation* 
on  the  Construction  of  Steam  Boilers,  and  Remarks  upon  Furnaces 
used  for  Smoke  Prevention ;  with  a  Chapter  on  Explosions.  By  R, 
ARMSTRONG,  C.  E.,  and  JOHN  BOURNE.  (Scarce.) 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


CAREY.— A  Memoir  of  Henry  C.  Carey. 
By  DR.  WM.  ELDER.    With  a  portrait.     8vo.,  cloth        .        .        75 

CAREY.— The  Works  of  Henry  C.  Carey : 

Harmony  of  Interests  :    Agricultural,  Manufacturing  and  Commer 

cial.     8vo.  .  $*-2$ 

Manual  of  Social  Science.  Condensed  from  Carey's  "  Principles 
of  Social  Science."  By  KATE  McKEAN.  I  vol.  I2mo.  .  £2.00 
Miscellaneous  Works.  With  a  Portrait.  2  vols.  8vo.  $10.00' 

Past,  Present  and  Future.     8vo $2.50) 

Principles  of  Social  Science.  3  volumes,  8vo.  .  .  $7-S<> 
The  Slave-Trade,  Domestic  and  Foreign;  Why  it  Exists,  and 
How  it  may  be  Extinguished  (1853).  8vo.  .  .  .  $2.00 
The  Unity  of  Law :  As  Exhibited  in  the  Relations  of  Physical, 
Social,  Mental  and  Moral  Science  (1872).  8vo.  .  .  $2.50 

CLARK. — Tramways,  their  Construction  and  Working : 

Embracing  a  Comprehensive  History  of  the  System.  With  an  ex- 
haustive analysis  of  the  various  modes  of  traction,  including  horse- 
power, steam,  heated  water  and  compressed  air;  a  description  of  the 
varieties  of  Rolling  stock,  and  ample  details  of  cost  and  working  ex- 
penses. By  D.  KINNEAR  CLARK.  Illustrated  by  over  200  wood 
engravings,  and  thirteen  folding  plates.  I  vol.  8vo.  .  $5.00 

COLBURN.— The  Locomotive  Engine  : 

Including  a  Description  of  its  Structure,  Rules  for  Estimating  its 
Capabilities,  and  Practical  Observations  on  its  Construction  and  Man- 
agement. By  ZERAH  COLBURN.  Illustrated.  i2mo.  .  $1.00 

COLLENS.— The  Eden  of  Labor;  or,  the  Christian  Utopia. 
By  T.  WHARTON  COLLENS,  author  of  "  Humanics,"   "  The  Historj 
of  Charity,"  etc.     I2mo.     Paper  cover,  $1.00;  Cloth          .         $1.25 

COOLEY.— A  Complete  Practical  Treatise  on  Perfumery : 
Being  a  Hand-book  of  Perfumes,  Cosmetics  and  other  Toilet  Article 
With   a  Comprehensive    Collection  of  Formulae.     By   ARNOLD  J 
COOLEY.    iamo $1.50 

COOPER. — A  Treatise  on  the  use  of  Belting  for  the  Tranw- 

mission  of  Power. 

With  numerous  illustrations  of  approved  and  actual  methods  of  ar- 
ranging Main  Driving  and  Quarter  Twist  Belts,  and  of  Belt  Fasten 
ings.  Examples  and  Rules  in  great  number  for  exhibiting  and  cal- 
culating the  size  and  driving  power  of  Belts.  Plain,  Particular  and 
Practical  Directions  for  the  Treatment,  Care  and  Management  or 
Belts.  Descriptions  of  many  varieties  of  Beltings,  together  witfl 
chapters  on  the  Transmission  of  Power  by  Ropes ;  by  Iron  and 
Wood  Frictional  Gearing ;  on  the  Strength  of  Belting  Leather ;  and 
on  the  Experimental  Investigations  of  Morin,  Briggs,  and  others.  By 
JOHN  H.  COOPER,  M.  E.  8vo $3.50 

CRAIK.— The  Practical  American  Millwright  and  MUler. 
By  DAVID  CRAIK,  Millwright.     Illustrated  by  numerous  wood  en- 
gravings and  two  folding  plates.     8vo (Scarce.) 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.  9 

CROSS.— The  Cotton  Yarn  Spinner: 

Showing  how  the  Preparation  should  be  arranged  for  Different 
Counts  of  Yarns  by  a  System  more  uniform  than  has  hitherto  been 
practiced;  by  having  a  Standard  Schedule  from  which  we  make  all 
our  Changes.  By  RICHARD  CROSS.  122  pp.  i2tno.  .  75 

CRISTIANI.— A  Technical  Treatise  on  Soap  and  Candles: 
With  a  Glance  at  the  Industry  of  Fats  and  Oils.     By  R.  S.  CRIS- 
TIANI,  Chemist.     Author  of  "  Perfumery  and  Kindred  Arts."     Illus- 
trated by  176  engravings.     581  pages,  8vo.  $15.00 

COURTNEY.— The  Boiler  Maker's  Assistant  in  Drawing, 
Templating,  and  Calculating  Boiler  Work  and  Tank 
Work,  etc. 

Revised  by  D.  K.  CLARK.     102  ills.     Fifth  edition.      .         .         80 
COURTNEY.— The  Boiler  Maker's  Ready  Reckoner: 

With  Examples  of  Practical  Geometry  and  Templating.  Revised  by 
D.  K.  CLARK,  C.  E.  37  illustrations.  Fifth  edition.  .  |i.6o 

DAVIDSON.— A  Practical  Manual  of  House  Painting,  Grain- 
ing, Marbling,  and  Sign- Writing: 

Containing  full  information  on  the  processes  of  House  Painting  in 
Oil  and  Distemper,  the  Formation  of  Letters  and  Practice  of  Sign- 
Writing,  the  Principles  of  Decorative  Art,  a  Course  of  Elementary 
Drawing  for  House  Painters,  Writers,  etc.,  and  a  Collection  of  Useful 
Receipts.  With  nine  colored  illustrations  of  Woods  and  Marbles, 
and  numerous  wood  engravings.  By  ELLIS  A.  DAVIDSON.  121110. 

$2.00 

DAVIES. — A  Treatise  on  Earthy  and  Other    Minerals   and 

Mining: 

By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S.,  Mining  Engineer,  etc.  Illustrated  by 
76  Engravings.  I2mo $S-°° 

DAVIES.— A  Treatise  on  Metalliferous  Minerals  and  Mining: 
By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S.,  Mining  Engineer,  Examiner  of  Mines, 
Quarries  and  Collieries.  Illustrated  by  148  engravings  of  Geological 
Formations,  Mining  Operations  and  Machineiy,  drawn  from  the 
practice  of  all  parts  of  the  world.  Fifth  Edition,  thoroughly  Revised 
and  much  Enlarged  by  his  son,  E.  Henry  Davies.  I2mo.,  524 
pages •  •  *5-°o 

DAVIES.— A  Treatise  on  Slate  and  Slate  Quarrying: 

Scientific,  Practical  and  Commercial.  By  D.  C.  DAVIES,  F.  G.  S., 
Mining  Engineer,  etc.  With  numerous  illustrations  and  folding 
plates.  ;2mo. $l.2Q 

DAVIS.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Brick, 

Tiles  and  Terra-Cotta : 

Including  Stiff  Clay,  Dry  Clay,  Hand  Made,  Pressed  or  Front,  and 
Roadway  Paving  Brick,  Enamelled  Brick,  with  Glazes  and  Colors, 
Fire  Brick  and  ^Blocks.  Silica  Brick,  Carbon  Brick,  Glass  Pots,  Re- 


10    „     HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGS. 

torts,  Architectural  Terra-Cotta,  Sewer  Pipe,  Drain  Tile,  Glazed  and 
Unglazed  Roofing  Tile,  Art  Tile,  Mosaics,  and  Imitation  of  Intarsia 
or  Inlaid  Surfaces.  Comprising  every  product  of  Clay  employed  in 
Architecture,  Engineering,  and  the  Blast  Furnace.  With  a  Detailed 
Description  of  the  Different  Clays  employed,  the  Most  Modern 
Machinery,  Tools,  and  Kilns  used,  and  the  Processes  for  Handling, 
Disintegrating,  Tempering,  and  Moulding  the  Clay  into  Shape,  Dry- 
ing, Setting,  and  Burning.  By  Charles  Thomas  Davis.  Third  Edi- 
tion. .Revised  and  in  great  part  rewritten.  Illustrated  by  261 

engravings.     662  pages (Scarce) 

DAVIS. — A  Treatise  on  Steam-Boiler  Incrustation  and  Meth- 
ods for  Preventing  Corrosion  and  the  Formation  of  Scale: 
By  CHARLES  T.  DAVIS,     Illustrated  by  65  engravings.     8vo. 
DAVIS.— The  Manufacture  of  Paper: 

Being  a  Description  of  the  various  Processes  for  the  Fabrication, 
Coloring  and  Finishing  of  every  kind  of  Paper,  Including  the  Dif- 
ferent Raw  Materials  and  the  Methods  for  Determining  their  Values, 
the  Tools,  Machines  and  Practical  Details  connected  with  an  intelli- 
gent and  a  profitable  prosecution  of  the  art,  with  special  reference  to 
the  best  American  Practice.  To  which  are  added  a  History  of  Pa- 
per, complete  Lists  of  Paper-Making  Materials,  List  of  American 
Machines,  Tools  and  Processes  used  in  treating  the  Raw  Materials, 
and  in  Making,  Coloring  and  Finishing  Paper.  By  CHARLES  T. 
DAVIS.  Illustrated  by  156  engravings.  608  pages,  8vo.  $6.00 
DAVIS. — The  Manufacture  of  Leather: 

Being  a  Description  of  all  the  Processes  for  the  Tanning  and  Tawing 
with  Bark,  Extracts,  Chrome  and  all  Modern  Tannages  in  General 
Use,  and  the  Currying,  Finishing  and  Dyeing  of  Every  Kind  of  Leather; 
Including  the  Various  Raw  Materials,  the  Tools,  Machines,  and.  all 
Details  of  Importance  Connected  with  an  Intelligent  and  Profitable 
Prosecution  of  the  Art,  with  Special  Reference  to  the  Best  American 
Practice.  To  which  are  added  Lists  of  American  Patents  (1884-1897) 
for  Materials,  Processes,  Tools  and  Machines  for  Tanning,  Currying, 
etc.  By  CHARLES  THOMAS  DAVIS.  Second  Edition,  Revised,  and 
in  great  part  Rewritten.  Illustrated  by  147  engravings  and  14  Sam- 
ples of  Quebracho  Tanned  and  Aniline  Dyed  Leathers.  8vo,  cloth, 

712  pages.     Price $12.50 

DAWIDOWSKY— BRANNT.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the 
Raw  Materials  and  Fabrication  of  Glue,  Gelatine,  Gelatine 
Veneers  and  Foils,  Isinglass,  Cements,  Pastes,  Mucilages, 
etc.: 

Eased  upon  Actual  Experience.  By  F.  DAWIDOWSKY,  Technical 
Chemist.  Translated  from  the  German,  with  extensive  additions, 
including  a  description  of  the  most  Recent  American  Processes,  by 
WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  2d  revised  edition,  350  pages.  (1905.) 

Price .       £3.00 

DE  GRAFF.— The  Geometrical  Stair-Builders'  Guides' 

Being  a  Plain  Practical  System  of  Hand-Railing,  embracing  all  its 
necessary  Details,  and  Geometrically  Illustrated  by  twenty-two  Stee 
Engravings ;  together  with  the  use  of  the  most  approved  pnnciplp 
of  Practical  Geometry  By  SIMON  DE  GRAFF,  Architect  (Scarce. . 


HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD  &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE.        n 

DE  KONINCK— DIETZ.— A  Practical  Manual  of  Chemical 

Analysis  and  Assaying : 

As  applied  to  the  Manufacture  of  Iron  from  its  Ores,  and  to  Cast  Troa, 
Wrought  Iron,  and  Steel,  as  found  in  Commerce.  By  L.  L.  Dl 
KONINCK,  Dr.  Sc.,  and  E.  DIETZ,  Engineer.  Edited  with  Notes,  by 
ROBERT  MALLET,  F.  R.  S.,  F.  S.  G.,  M.  I.  C.  E.,  etc.  America* 
Edition,  Edited  with  Notes  and  an  Appendix  on  Iron  Ores,  by  A.  A, 
FESQUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  iamo.  .  .  .  $1.50 

DUNCAN.— Practical  Surveyor's  Guide: 

Containing  the  necessary  information  to  make  any  person  of  com) 
mon  capacity,  a  finished  land  surveyor  without  the  aid  of  a  teachet 
By  ANDREW  DUNCAN.  Revised.  72  engravings,  2i4pp.  I2mo.  $1.50 

DUPLAIS. — A  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  and  Distillation 

of  Alcoholic  Liquors : 

Comprising  Accurate  and  Complete  Details  in  Regard  to  Alcohol 
from  Wine,  Molasses,  Beets,  Grain,  Rice,  Potatoes,  Sorghum,  Aspho- 
del, Fruits,  etc. ;  with  the  Distillation  and  Rectification  of  Brandy, 
Whiskey,  Rum,  Gin,  Swiss  Absinthe,  etc.,  the  Prepar?tion  of  Aro. 
niatic  Waters,  Volatile  Oils  or  Essences,  Sugars,  Syrups,  Aromati* 
Tinctures,  Liqueurs,  Cordial  Wines,  Effervescing  Wines,  etc.,  tfct 
Ageing  of  Brandy  and  the  improvement  of  Spirits,  with  CopioM 
Directions  and  Tables  for  Testing  and  Reducing  Spirituous  Liquors, 
etc.  etc.  Translated  and  Edited  from  the  French  of  MM.  DUPLAIS, 
By  M.  McKENNiE,  M.  D.  Illustrated.  743  pp.  8vo.  $15.00 

DYER  AND  COLOR-MAKER'S  COMPANION: 

Containing  upwards  of  two  hundred  Receipts  for  making  Colors,  on 
the  most  approved  principles,  for  all  the  various  styles  and  fabrics  now 
in  evistence ;  with  the  Scouring  Process,  and  plain  Directions  for 
Preparing,  Washing-off,  and  Finishing  the  Goods.  I2mo.  $i  oo 

EIDHER-R.— The  Techno-Chemical  Guide  to  Distillation: 
A  Hand-Book  for  the  Manufacture  of  Alcohol  and  Alcoholic  Liquors, 
including  the  Preparation  of  Malt  and  Compressed  Yeast.     Edited 
from  the  German  of  Ed.  Eidherr. 

EDWARDS.— A  Catechism  of  the  Marine  Steam-Engine, 
For  the  use  of    Engineers,  Firemen,  and   Mechanics.     A  Practical 
Work  for  Practical  Men.     By  EMORY  EDWARDS,  Mechanical   Engi- 
neer.    Illustrated  by  sixty-three  Engravings,  including  examples  of 
the  most  modern  Engines.     Third  edition,  thoroughly  revised,  with 

•     much  additional  matter.     12  mo.  414  pages        .         .         .         $2  OO 

EDWARDS.— Modern  American  Locomotive  Engines, 
Thc:r  Design,  Construction  and  Management.     By  EMORY  EDWARDS* 
Illustrated  I2mo *2O° 

EDWARDS.— The  American  Steam  Engineer: 
Theoretical  and  Practical,  with  examples  of  the  latent  and  most  ap- 
proved American  practice  in  the  design  and  construction  of  Steam 
Engines  and  Boilers.  For  the  use  of  engineers,  machinists,  boiler- 
uvakers,  and  engineering  students.  By  EMORY  EDWARDS.  Fully 
illustrated,  419  pages.  I2mo.  .... 


12          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S   CATALOGUE. 

EDWARDS.— Modern  American  Marine  Engines,  Boilers,  aiK 

Screw  Propellers, 

Their  Design  and  Construction.  Showing  the  Present  Practice  ot 
the  most  Eminent  Engineers  and  Marine  Engine  Builders  in  the 
United  States.  Illustrated  by  30  large  and  elaborate  plates.  4to.  $5.00 
EDWARDS.— The  Practical  Steam  Engineer's  Guide 
In  the  Design,  Construction,  and  Management  of  American  Stationary, 
Portable,  and  Steam  Fire-Engines,  Steam  Pumps,  Boilers,  Injectors, 
Governors,  Indicators,  Pistons  and  Rings,  Safety  Valves  and  Steam 
Gauges.  For  the  use  of  Engineers,  Firemen,  and  Steam  Users.  By 
EMORY  EDWARDS.  Illustrated  by  119  engravings.  A2O  pages. 

I2mo. $2  50 

EISSLER.— The  Metallurgy  of  Silver : 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Amalgamation,  Roasting,  and  Lixiviation 
of  Silver  Ores,  including  the  Assaying,  Melting,  and  Refining  of 
Silver  Bullion.  By  M.  EISSLER.  124  Illustrations.  336  pp. 

I2mo ,         .-".'.         .         $4.25 

ELDER. — Conversations  on  the  Principal  Subjects  of  Political 

Economy. 
By  DR.  WILLIAM  ELDER.     8vo.       ...  .        £2.50 

ELDER. — Questions  of  the  Day, 

Economic  and  Social.     By  DR.  WILLIAM  ELDER.     8vo.      .     33.00 
ERNI  AND  BROWN.— Mineralogy  Simplified. 

Easy  Methods  of  Identifying  Minerals,  including  Ores,  by  Means  of 
the  Blow-pipe,  by  Flame  Reactions,  by  Humid  Chemical  Analysis, 
and  by  Physical  Tests.      By  HENRI  ERNI,  A.  M.,  M.  D.     Third  Edi- 
tion, revised,  re-arranged  and  with  the  addition  of  entirely  new  matter, 
including  Tables  for  the  Determination  of  Minerals  by  Chemical  and 
Pyrognostic  Characters,  and  by  Physical  Characters.     By  AMOS  P. 
BROWN,  E.  M.,  Ph.  D.    350  pp.,  illustrated  by  96  engravings,  pocket- 
book  form,  full  flexible  morocco,  gilt  edges       .         .         .         $2.50 
FAIRBAIRN.-The  Principles  of  Mechanism  and  Machinery 

of  Transmission : 

Comprising    the    Principles    of  Mechanism,  Wheels,    and    Pulleys, 
Strength  and  Proportion  of  Shafts,  Coupling  of  Shafts,  and  Engag- 
ing and   Disengaging   Gear.     By    SIR  WILLIAM  FAIRBAIRN,  Bart. 
C.    E.       Beautifully   illustrated   by   over    150   wood-cuts.     In   one 
volume,  I2mo.        ........         #2.00 

FLEMING. — Narrow  Gauge  Railways  in  America  : 

A  Sketch  of  their  Rise,  Progress,  and  Success.  Valuable  Statistics 
as  to  Grades,  Curves,  Weight  of  Rail,  Locomotives,  Cars,  etc.  By 

HOWARD  FLEMING.     Illustrated,  8vo '    $1.00 

FORSYTH.— Book  of  Designs  for  Headstones,  Mural,  and 

other  Monuments  : 

Containing  78  Designs.     By  JAMES  FORSYTH,    With  an  Introduction 
by  CHARLES  BOUTELL,  M.  A.     410.,  cloth      .         .        .        $3.50 
FRIEDBERG.     Utilization  of  Bones  by  Chemical   Means; 
especially  the  Modes   of  Obtaining   Fat,  Glue,  Manures, 
Phosphorus  and  Phosphates. 
Illustrated.     8vo.     (In  preparation.) 


HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE. 


FRANKEI — HOTTER.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Mann- 

facture  of  Starch,  Glucose,  Starch-Sugar,  and  Dextrine: 
Based  on  the  German  of  LADISLAUS  VON  WAGNER,  Professor  in  the 
Royal  Technical  High  School,  Buda-Pest,  Hungary,  and  other 
authorities.  By  JULIUS  FRANKEL,  Graduate  of  the  Polytechnic 
School  of  Hanover.  Edited  by  ROBERT  HUTTER,  Chemist,  Practical 
Manufacturer  of  Starch-Sugar.  Illustrated  by  58  engravings,  cover- 
ing every  branch  of  the  subject,  including  examples  of  the  most 
Recent  and  Best  American  Machinery.  8vo.,  344  pp.  $6.00 

GARDNER. — The  Painter's  Encyclopaedia: 
Containing  Definitions  of  all  Important  Words  in  the  Art  of  Plain 
and  Artistic  Painting,  with  Details  of  Practice  in  Coach,  Carriage, 
Railway  Car,  House,  Sign,  and  Ornamental  Painting,  including 
Graining,  Marbling,  Staining,  Varnishing,  Polishing,  Lettering, 
Stenciling,  Gilding,  Bronzing,  etc.  By  FRANKLIN  B.  GARDNER. 
158  Illustrations.  lamo.  427  pp.  .....  $2.06 

GARDNER. — Everybody's  Paint  Book: 

A  Complete  Guide  to  the  Art  of  Outdoor  and  Indoor  Painting.  38 
illustrations.  I2mo,  183  pp $l.oo 

GEE.— The  Jeweller's   Assistant  in  the   Art  of  Working  in 

Gold: 
A  Practical  Treatise  foi  Masters  and  Workmen.     lamo.      .       fo.oo 

GEE. — The  Goldsmith's  Handbook : 

Containing  full  instructions  for  the  Alloying  and  Working  of  Gold, 
including  the  Art  of  Alloying,  Melting,  Reducing,  Coloring,  Col- 
lecting, and  Refining;  the  Processes  of  Manipulation,  Recovery  of 
Waste;  Chemical  and  Physical  Properties  of  Gold;  with  a  New 
System  of  Mixing  its  Alloys ;  Solders,  Enamels,  and  other  Useful 
Rules  and  Recipes.  By  GEORGE  E.  GEE.  I2mo.  .  .  $1.25 

GEE.— The  Silversmith's  Handbook  : 

Containing  full  instructions  for  the  Alloying  and  Working  of  Silver, 
including;  the  different  modes  of  Refining  and  Melting  the  Metal ;  its 
Solders ;  the  Preparation  of  Imitation  Alloys ;  Methods  of  Manipula- 
tion ;  Prevention  of  Waste  ;  Instructions  for  Improving  and  Finishing 
the  Surface  of  the  Work ;  together  with  other  Useful  Information  and 
Memoranda.  By  GEORGE  E.  GEE.  Illustrated.  I2mo.  $1.25 

GOTHIC  ALBUM  FOR  CABINET-MAKERS: 
.Designs  for  Gothic  Furniture.     Twenty-three  plates.     Oblong  $1-5° 

GRANT.  —A  Handbook  on  the  Teeth  of  Gears  : 
Their  Curves,  Properties,  and  Practical  Construction.     By  GEORGB 
B.  GRANT.     Illustrated.     Third  Edition,  enlarged.     8vo.          $iao 

GREENWOOD.— Steel  and  Iron: 

Comprising  the  Practice  and  Theory  of  the  Several  Methods  Pur- 
sued  in  their  Manufacture,  and  of  their  Treatment  in  the  Rolling. 
Mills,  the  Forge,  and  the  Foundry.  By  WILLIAM  HENRY  GREEN- 
WOOD, F.  C.  S.  With  97  Diagrams,  536  pages.  I2mo.  #1.75 


14       HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE 


GREGORY.— Mathematics  for  Practical  Men : 

Adapted  to  the  Pursuits  of  Surveyors,  Architects,  Mechanics,  and 
Civil  Engineers.  By  OLINTHUS  GREGORY.  8vo.,  plates  $3.00 

GRISWOLD.— Railroad  Engineer's  Pocket  Companion  for  tht 

Field : 

Comprising  Rules  for  Calculating  Deflection  Distances  and  Angles, 
Tangential  Distances  and  Angles,  and  all  Necessary  Tables  for  En 
gineers ;  also  the  Art  of  Levelling  from  Preliminary  Survey  to  ih« 
Construction  of  Railroads,  intended  Expressly  for  the  Young  En- 
gineer, together  with  Numerous  Valuable  Rules  and  Examples.  By 
W.  GRISWOLD.  i2mo.,  tucks $i-5o. 

GRUNER. — Studies  of  Blast  Furnace  Phenomena: 

By  M.  L.  GRUNER,  President  of  the  General  Council  of  Mines  o5 
France,  and  lately  Professor  of  Metallurgy  at  the  Ecole  des  Mines, 
Translated,  with  the  author's  sanction,  with  an  Appendix,  by  L.  D. 
B.  GORDON,  F.  R.  S.  E.,  F.  G.  S.  8vo.  ...  #2.50 

Hand-Book  of  Useful  Tables  for  the  Lumberman,  Farmer  and 

Mechanic : 

Containing  Accurate  Tables  of  Logs  Reduced  to  Inch  Board  Meas- 
ure,  Plank,  Scantling  and  Timber  Measure ;  Wages  and  Rent,  by 
Week  or  Month ;  Capacity  of  Granaries,  Bins  and  Cisterns ;  Land 
Measure,  Interest  Tables,  with  Directions  for  Finding  the  Interest  on 
any  sum  at  4,  5,  6,  7  and  8  per  cent.,  and  many  other  Useful  Tables. 
32  mo.,  boards.  186  pages .25 

HASERICK.— The  Secrets  of  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Wool,  Cotton. 

and  Linen, 

Including  Bleachir.g  and  Coloring  Wool  and  Cotton  Hosiery  and 
Random  Yarns.  A  Treatise  based  on  Economy  and  Practice.  By 
E.  C.  HASERICK.  Illustrated  by  323  Dyed  Patterns  of  the  Yarnt 
or  Fabrics,  8vo $5-00 

HATS  AND  FELTING  : 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  their  Manufacture.  By  a  Practical  Hatter, 
Illustrated  by  Drawings  of  Machinery,  etc.  8vo.  .  .  $1.00 

HERMANN. — Painting  oh  Glass  and  Porcelain,  and  Enamel 

Painting: 

A  Complete  Introduction  to  the  Preparation  of  all  the  Colors  and 
Fluxes  Used  for  Painting  on  Glass,  Porcelain,  Enamel,  Faience  and 
Stoneware,  the  Color  Pastes  and  Colored  Glasses,  together  with  a 
Minute  Description  ot  the  Firing  ot  Colors  and  Enamels,  on  th« 
Basis  of  Personal  Practical  Experience  of  the  Art  up  to  Date.  18 
illustrations.  Second  edition. $4.00 

HAUPT.— Street  Railway  Motors: 

With  Descriptions  and  Cost  of  Plants  and  Operation  of  the  Variou* 
Systems  now  in  Use.  I2r*<V  ,  $1-75 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.         15 

HAUPT.— A  Manual  of  Engineering  Specifications  and  Con- 
tracts. 
By    LEWIS   M.  HAUPT,  C.   E.     Illustrated   with   numerous   maps. 

328pp.     8vo $3  oo 

HAUPT.— The  Topographer,  His  Instruments  and  Methods. 
By  LEWIS  M.  HAUPT,  A.  M.,  C.  E.     Illustrated   with   numerous 
plates,  maps  and  engravings.     247  pp.    8vo.      .         .         .         $3.00 
HUGHES. — American  Miller  and  Millwright's  Assistant: 

By  WILLIAM  CARTER  HUGHES.    i2mo $1.50 

HULME. — Worked  Examination  Questions  in  Plane  Geomet- 
rical Drawing  : 

For  the  Use  of  Candidates  for  the  Royal  Military  Academy,  Wool- 
wich ;  the  Royal  Military  College,  Sandhurst ;  the  Indian  Civil  En- 
gineering College,  Cooper's  Hill;  Indian  Public  Works  and  Tele- 
graph Departments ;  Royal  Marine  Light  Infantry ;  the  Oxford  and 
Cambridge  Local  Examinations,  etc.    By  F.  EDWARD  HULME,  F.  L. 
S.,  F.  S.  A.,  Art-Master  Marlborough  College.     Illustrated  by  300 
examples.     Small  quarto  ......        $1.50 

JERVIS.— Railroad  Property: 

A  Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Management  of  Railways; 
designed  to  afford  useful  knowledge,  in  the  popular  style,  to  tho 
holders  of  this  class  of  property ;  as  well  as  Railway  Managers,  Offi- 
cers, and  Agents.  By  JOHN  B.  JERVIS,  late  Civil  Engineer  of  the 
Hudson  River  Railroad,  Croton  Aqueduct,  etc.  i2mo.,  cloth  $1.50 
KEENE.— A  Hand-Book  of  Practical  Gauging: 
For  the  Use  of  Beginners,  to  which  is  added  a  Chapter  on  Distilla- 
tion, describing  the  process  in  operation  at  the  Custom-House  fot 
ascertaining  the  Strength  of  Wines.  By  JAMES  B.  KEENE,  of  H.  M. 

Customs.     8vo $1.00 

KELLEY.— Speeches,  Addresses,  and  Letters  on  Industrial  and 

Financial  Questions : 

By  HON.  WTILLIAM  D.  KELLEY,  M.  C.     544  pages,  8vo.  .         $2.50 
KELLOGG. — A  New  Monetary  System  : 

The  only  means  of  Securing  the  respective  Rights  of  Labor  and 
Properly,  and  of  Protecting  the  Public  from  Financial  Revulsions. 
By  EDWARD  KELLOGG.  i2mo.  Paper  cover,  $1.00.  Bound  in 

,    cloth $1.2$ 

KEMLO.— Watch-Repairer's  Hand-Book : 
Being  a  Complete  Guide  to  the  Young  Beginner,  in  Taking  Apart, 
Putting  Together,  and  Thoroughly  Cleaning  the  English  Lever  and 
other  .Foreign  Watches,  and  all  American  Watches.     By  F.  KEMLO, 
Watchmaker.     With  Illustrations.     I2mo.  $1.25 


t6          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

KENTISH.— A  Treatise  on  a  Box  of  Instruments, 

And  the  Slide  Rule ;  with  the  Theory  of  Trigonometry  and  Log* 
rithms,  including  Practical  Geometry,  Surveying,  Measuring  of  Tim- 
ber,  Cask  and  Malt  Gauging,  Heights,  and  Distances.  By  THOMAJ 
KENTISH.  In  one  volume.  I2mo.  ....  $i.oc 

KERL.— The  Assayer's  Manual: 

An  Abridged  Treatise  on  the  Docimastic  Examination  of  Ores,  and 
Furnace  and  other  Artificial  Products.  By  BRUNO  KERL,  Professor 
in  the  Royal  School  of  Mines.  Translated  from  the  German  by 
WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Second  American  edition,  edited  with  Ex- 
tensive Additions  by  F.  LY.NWOOD  GARRISON,  Member  of  the 
American  Institute  of  Mining  Engineers,  etc.  Illustrated  by  87  en- 
gravings. 8vo.  (Third  Edition  in  preparation.  ) 

KICK.— Flour  Manufacture . 

A  Treatise  on  Milling  Science  and  Practice.  By  FREDERICK  KICK 
Imperial  Regierungsrath,  Professor  of  Mechanical  Technology  in  the 
Imperial  German  Polytechnic  Institute,  -Prague.  Translated  from 
the  second  enlarged  and  revised  edition  with  supplement  by  H.  H. 
P.  PoWLES,  Assoc.  Memb.  Institution  of  Civil  Engineers.  Illustrated 
with  28  Plates,  and  167  Wood-cuts.  367  pages.  8vo.  .  $10.00 

KINGZETT.— The   History,  Products,  and  Processes  of  the 

Alkali  Trade : 

including  the  most  Recent  Improvements.  By  CHARLES  THOMAS 
K  i ^-r-.7ETT.  Consulting  Chemist.  With  23  illustrations.  8vo.  $2.50 

KIRK. — The  Cupola  Furnace  : 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Management  of  Foundry 
Cupolas.  By  EDWARD  KlRK,  Practical  Moulder  and  Melter,  Con- 
sulting Expert  in  Melting.  Illustrated  by  78  engravings.  Second 
Edition,  revised  and  enlarged.  450  pages.  8vo.  1903.  $3.50 

LANDRIN.— A  Treatise  on  Steel: 

Comprising  its  Theory,  Metallurgy,  Properties,  Practical  Working, 
and  Use.  By  M.  H.  C.  LANDRIN,  JR.  From  the  French,  by  A.  A. 
FESQUET.  i2mo #2.50 

LANGBEIN.— A   Complete  Treatise  on  the  Electro-Deposu 

tion  of  Metals : 

Comprising  Electro-Plating  and  Galvanoplastic  Operations,  the  De- 
position of  Metals  by  the  Contact  and  Immersion  Processes,  the  Color- 
ing of  Metals,  the  Methods  of  Grinding  and  Polishing,  as  well  as 
Descriptions  of  the  Electric  Elements,  Dynamo-Electric  Machines, 
Thermo-Piles  and  of  the  Materials  and  Processes  used  in  Every  De- 
partment of  the  Art.  From  the  German  of  DR.  GEORGE  LANGBEIN. 
with  additions  by  WM.  T.  BRANNT.  Fifth  Edition,  thoroughly  revised 
and  much  enlarged.  1 70  Engravings.  694  pages  8vo.  1905.  $4.00 

GARDNER.— The  Steam-Engine : 

For  the  Use  of  Beginners.     Illustrated.     I2mo.    •         •         .       .60 

LEHNER.— The  Manufacture  of  Ink: 

! »  Comprising  the  Raw  Materials,  and  the  Preparation  ef  Writing, 
Copying  and  Hektograph  Inks,  Safety  Inks,  Ink  Extracts  and  Pow- 
ders, etc.  Translated  from  the  German  of  SIGMUND  LEHNER,  with 
»iV,'r:o"s  1-v  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated.  i?mo.  H-».T»O 


HENRY   CAREY    BAIRD   &  GO.'S   CATALOGUR        17 

LARKIN. — The  Practical  Brass  and  Iron  Founder's  Guide; 
A  Concise  Treatise  on  Brass  Founding,  Moulding,  the  Metals  and 
their  Alloys,  etc. ;  to  which  are  added  Recent  Improvements  in  the 
Manufacture  of  Iron,  Steel  by  the  Bessemer  Process,  etc.,  etc.  Bj 
TAMES  LARKIN,  late  Conductor  of  the  Brass  Foundry  Department  ii 
Reany,  Neafie  &  Co.'s  Penn  Works,  Philadelphia.  New  edition, 
revised,  with  extensive  additions.  414  pages.  I2mo.  .  £2.50 

LEROUX.— A    Practical     Treatise    on    the    Manufacture    of 

Worsteds  and  Carded  Yarns  : 

Comprising  Practical  Mechanics,  with  Rules  and  Calculations  applied 
to  Spinning ;  Sorting,  Cleaning,  and  Scouring  Wools ;  the  English 
and  French  Methods  of  Combing,  Drawing,  and  Spinning  Worsteds, 
and  Manufacturing  Carded  Yarns.  Translated  from  the  French  of 
CHARLES  LEROUX,  Mechanical  Engineer  and  Superintendent  of  a 
Spinning-Mill,  by  HORATIO  PAINE,  M.  D.,  and  A.  A.  FESQUET, 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  twelve  large  Plates.  To  which 
is  added  an  Appendix,  containing  Extracts  from  the  Reports  of  th« 
International  Jury,  and  of  the  Artisans  selected  by  the  Committee 
appointed  by  the  Council  of  the  Society  of  Arts,  London,  on  Woolei 
and  Worsted  Machinery  and  Fabrics,  as  exhibited  in  the  Paris  Uni- 
versal Exposition,  1867.  8vo.  $5-06 

LJEFFEL. — The  Construction  of  Mill-Dams  : 
Comprising  also  the  Building  of  Race  and  Reservoir  Embankment* 
And   Head-Gates,  the   Measurement  of  Streams,  Gauging  of  Water 
Supply,  etc.     By  JAMES  LEFFEL  &  Co.    Illustrated  by  58  engravings. 
8vo (Scarce.) 

LESLIE. — Complete  Cookery: 

Directions  for  Cookery  in  its  Various  Branches.  By  Miss  LESLIE. 
Sixtieth  thomsand.  Thoroughly  revised,  with  the  addition  of  New 
Receipts.  I2mo.  ....  .  $1.50 

LE  VAN. — The  Steam  Engine  and  the  Indicator : 

Their  Origin  and  Progressive  Development;  including  the  Most 
Recent  Examples  of  Steam  and  Gas  Motors,  together  with  the  Indi- 
cator, its  Principles,  its  Utility,  and  its  Application.  By  WILLIAM 
BARNET  LE  VAN.  Illustrated  by  205  .Engravings,  chiefly  of  Indi- 
cator-Cards. 469  pp.  8vo #2.00 

blEBER. — Assayer's  Guide  : 

Or,  Practical  Directions  to  Assayers,  Miners,  and  Smelters,  for  the 
Tests  and  Assays,  by  Heat  and  by  Wet  Processes,  for  the  Ores  of  all 
t^  principal  Metals,  of  Gold  and  Silver  Coins  a«d  Alloys,  and  of 
Coal,  etc.  By  OSCAR  M.  LIEBER.  Revised.  283  pp.  I2mo.  $1.50 

tockwood's  Dictionary  of  Terms : 

Used  in  the  Practice  of  Mechanical  Engineering,  embracing  those 
Current  in  the  Drawing  Office,  Pattern  Shop,  Foundry,  Fitting,  Turn- 
ing, Smith's  and  Boiler  Shops,  etc.,  etc.,  comprising  upwards  of  Six 
Thousand  Definitions.  Edited  by  a  Foreman  Pattern  Maker,  author 
vf  "  Pattern  Making."  417  pp.  I2mo.  .  .  . 


18         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE 

LUKIN.— The  Lathe  and  Its  Uses  : 

Or  Instructioa  in  the  Art  of  Turning  Wood  and  Metal.  Including 
a  Description  of  the  Most  Modern  Appliances  for  the  Ornamentation 
of  Plane  and  Curved  Surfaces,  an  Entirely  Novtl  Form  of  Lathe 
for  Eccentric  and  Rose-Engine  Turning;  A  Lathe  and  Planing 
Machine  Combined;  and  Other  Valuable  Matter  Relating  to  the 
Art.  Illustrated  by  462  engravings.  Seventh  edition.  315  pages. 

8vo #4.25 

MAIN  and  BROWN.— Questions  on  Subjects  Connected  with 

the  Marine  Steam-Engine : 

And    Examination    Papers-    with    Hints    for    their   Solution.     By 
THOMAS  J.  MAIN,  Professor  of  Mathematics,  Royal  "tfaval  College, 
and  THOMAS  BROWN,  Chief  Engineer,  R.  N.    I2mo.,  cloth  .       $1.00 
MAIN  and  BROWN. — The  Indicator  and  Dynamometer: 
With  their  Practical  Applications  to  the  Steam-Engine.     By  THOMAS 
J,   MAIN,   M.  A.  F.  R.,  Ass't   S.   Professor   Royal  Naval   College, 
Portsmouth,  and  THOMAS  BROWN,  Assoc.  Inst.  C.  E.,  Chief  Engineer 
R.  N.,  attached  to  the  R.  N.  College.     Illustrated.     8vo.  . 
MAIN  and  BROWN.— The  Marine  Steam-Engine. 
By  THOMAS  J.  MAIN,  F.  R.  Ass't  S.  Mathematical  Professor  at  the 
Royal   Naval    College,   Portsmouth,  and   THOMAS   BROWN,  Assoc. 
Inst.  C.  E.,  Chief  Engineer  R.  N.     Attached  to  the  Royal  Naval 
College.     With  numerous  illustrations.     8vo. 
MAKINS.— A  Manual  of  Metallurgy: 

By  GEORGE  HOGARTH  MAKINS.  roo  engravings.  Second  edition 
rewritten  and  much  enlarged.  I2mo..  592  pages 

MARTIN.— Screw-Cutting  Tables,  for  the  Use  of  Mechanic*) 

Engineers  : 

Showing  the  Proper  Arrangement  of  Wheels  for  Cutting  the  Threads 
of  Screws  of  any  Required  Pitch;  with  a  Table  for  Making  the  Uni- 
versal Gas-Pipe  Thread  and  Taps.  By  W.  A.  MARTIN,  Engineer. 
8vo .50 

MICHELL.— Mine  Drainage: 

Being  a  Complete  and  Practical  Treatise  on  Direct-Acting  Under 
ground  Steam  Pumping  Machinery.  With  a  Description  of  a  large 
number  of  the  best  known  Engines,  their  General  Utility  and  th« 
Special  Sphere  of  their  Action,  the  Mode  of  their  Application,  and 
their  Merits  compared  with  other  Pumping  Machinery.  By  STEPHEM 
MlCHELL.  Illustrated  by  247  engravings.  8vo.,  369  pages.  $1250 

MOLESWORTH.— Pocket-Book   of    Useful    Formulae   and 
Memoranda  for  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineers. 
By  GUILFORD  L.  MOLESWORTH,  Member  of  the  Institution  of  Civil 
Engineers,  Chief  Resident  Engineer  of  the  Ceylon  Railway.     Full- 
bound  in  Pocket-book  form       .         .         ,         .         .         .         f  I.oo 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE          '9 

MOORE— The  Universal  Assistant  and  the  Complete  Mi 
chanic: 

Containing  over  one  million  Industrial  Facts,  Calculations,  Receiptt, 
Processes,  Trades  Secrets,  Rules,  Business  Forms,  Legal  Items,  Etc* 
in  every  occupation,  from  the  Household  to  the  Manufactory.  By 
R.  MOORE.  Illustrated  by  500  Engravings.  I2mo.  .  $2.50 

MORRIS. — Easy  Rules  for  the  Measurement  of  Earthworks  : 
By  means  of  the  Prismoidal  Formula.  Illustrated  with  Numerous 
Wood-Cuts,  Problems,  and  Examples,  and  concluded  by  an  Exten- 
sive Table  for  finding  the  Solidity  in  cubic  yards  from  Mean  Areas, 
The  whole  being  adapted  for  convenient  use  by  Engineers,  Surveyor^ 
Contractors,  and  others  needing  Correct  Measurements  of  Earthwork. 
By  ELWOOD  MORRIS,  C.  E.  8vo $i-5« 

MAUCHLINE.— The  Mine  Foreman's  Hand-Book 

Of  Practical  and  Theoretical  Information  on  the  Opening,  Venti- 
lating,  and  Working  of  Collieries.  Questions  and  Answers  on  Prac. 
tical  and  Theoretical  Coal  Mining.  Designed  to  Assist  Students  and 
Others  in  Passing  Examinations  for  Mine  Foremanships.  By 
ROBERT  MAUCHLINE.  3d  Edition.  Thoroughly  Revised  and  En- 
larged by  F.  ERNEST  BRACKETT.  134  engraving's,  8vo.  378  pages. 
('90S) #3.75 

NAPIER. — A  System  of  Chemistry  Applied  to  Dyeing. 

By  JAMES  NAPIER,  F.  C.  S.  A  New  and  Thoroughly  Revised  Edi- 
tion. Completely  brought  up  to  the  present  state  of  the  Science, 
including  the  Chemistry  of  Coal  Tar 'Colors,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET. 
Chemist  and  Engineer.  With  an  Appendix  Oil  Dyeing  and  Ca«ico 
Printing,  as  shown  at  the  Universal  Exposition,  Paris,  1867.  Illus 
trated.  8vo.  422  pages $3.00 

NEVILLE. — Hydraulic  Tables,  Coefficients,  and  Formulae,  fbi 
finding  the  Discharge  of  Water  from  Orifices,  Notches, 
Weirs,  Pipes,  and  Rivers ; 

Third  Edition,  with  Additions,  consisting  of  New  Formulae  for  the 
>ischarge  from  Tidal  and  Flood  Sluices  and  Siphons ;  general  infor- 
nation  on  Rainfall,  Catchment-Basins,  Drainage,  Sewerage,  Watei 
Supply  for  Towns  and  Mill  Power.  Bv  JOHN  NEVILLE.  C.  E.  M  R 
I.  A. ;  Fellow  of  the  Royal  Geological  Society  of  Ireland.  Thid 

I2mo #5.50 

JEWBERY.— Gleanings     from     Ornamental     Art    of     everj 

style : 

Drawn  from  Examples  in  the  British,  South  Kensington,  Indian, 
Crystal  Palace,  and  other  Museums,  the  Exhibitions  of  1851  and 
1862,  and  the  best  English  and  Foreign  works.  In  a  series  of  ioa 
exquisitely  drawn  Plates,  containing  many  hundred  examples.  By 
ROBERT  NEWBERY.  410. (Scarce.^ 

NICHOLLS.-The  Theoretical  and  Practical  Boiler- Maker  and 

Engineer's  Reference  Book: 

Containing  a  variety  of  Useful  Information  for  Employers  of  Labot 
Foremen  a-vl  Working  Boiler-Makers.  Irou,  Copper,  and  Tinsmiths 


20        HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

Draughtsmen,  Engineers,  the  General  Steam-using  Public,  and  for  th* 
Use  of  Science  Schools  and  Classes.  By  SAMUEL  NlCHOLLS.  Illu* 
trated  by  sixteen  plates,  I2mo.  .....  $2.50 

NICHOLSON.— A  Manual  of  the  Art  of  Bookbinding : 
Containing  full  instructions  in  the  different  Branches  of  Forwarding, 

•  Gilding,  and  Finishing.     Also,  the  Art  of  Marbling  Book-edges  and 
Paper.     By  JAMES  B.  NICHOLSON.     Illustrated.  I2mo.,  cloth     $2.25, 

NICOLLS.— The  Railway  Builder: 

A  Hand-Book  for  Estimating  the  Probable  Cost  of  American  Rail- 
way Construction  and  Equipment.  By  WILLIAM  J.  NICOLLS,  Civil 
Engineer.  Illustrated,  full  bound,  pocket-book  form  .  $2.00 

NORMANDY.— The  Commercial  Handbook  of  Chemical  An. 

alysis: 

Or  Practical  Instructions  for  the  Determination  of  the  Intrinsic  01 
Commercial  Value  of  Substances  used  in  Manufactures,  in  Trades, 
and  in  the  Arts.  By  A.  NORMANDY.  New  Edition,  Enlarged,  and 
to  a  great  extent  rewritten.  By  HENRY  M.  NOAD,  Ph.D.,  F.R.S., 
thick  I2mo. Scarce 

NORRIS. — A  Handbook  fcr  Locomotive   Engineers  and  Ma- 
chinists : 

Comprising  the  Proportions  and  Calculations  for  Constructing  Loco- 
motives;  Manner  of  Setting  Valves;  Tables  cf  Squares,  Cubes,  Areas, 
etc.,  etc.  By  SEFHMUS  NORRIS,  M.  E.  New  edition.  Illustrated, 
lamo $1.50 

NYSTROM. — A  New  Treatise  on  Elements  of  Mechanics  : 
Establishing  Strict  Precision  in  the  Meaning  of  Dynamical  Terms  i 
accompanied  with  an  Appendix  on  Duodenal  Arithmetic  and  Me 
trology.     By  JOHN  W.  NYSTROM,  C.  E.     Illustrated.     8vo. 

NYSTROM^— On  Technological  Education  and  the  Construc- 
tion of  Ships  and  Screw  Propellers : 

For  Naval  and  Marine  Engineers.  By  JOHN  W.  NYSTROM,  Inu 
Acting  Chief  Engineer,  U.  S.  N.  Second  edition,  revised,  with  add* 
tional  matter.  Illustrated  by  seven  engravings.  I2mo.  .  $i. 

O'NEILL. — A  Dictionary  of  Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing:        < 
Containing  a  brief  account  of  ail  the  Substances  and   Processes!  C 
use  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Printing  Textile  Fabrics  ;  with  Practta 
Receipts  and  Scientific  Information.     By  CHARLES  O'NEILL,  Anal}" 
tical  Chemist.     To  which  is  added  an  Essay  on  Coal  Tar  Colors  and 
their  application  to  Dyeing  and  Calico  Printing.     By  A.  A.  FESQUET; 
Chemist  and  Engineer.     With  an   appendix  on  Dyeing  and  Calico 
Printing,  as  shown  at  the  Universal  Exposition,  Paris,   1867-     8vo., 
491  pages  .  $3.00 

ORTON. — Underground  Treasures'. 

How  and  Where  to  Find  Them.  A  Key  for  the  Ready  Determination 
of  all  the  Useful  Minerals  within  the  United  States.  By  JAMES 
ORTON,  A.M.,  Late  Professor  of  Natural  History  in  Vassar  College, 
N.  Y.;  author  of  the  "Andes  and  the  Amazon,"  etc.  A  New  Edi- 
tion, with  An  Appendix  on  Ore  Deposits  and  Testing  Minerals  (1901). 
Jllustvnted $i.t,o 


HENRY   CAREY    BAIRD   &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE.        21 


OSBORN.— The  Prospector's  Field  Book  and  Guide. 

In  the  Search  For  and  the  Easy  Determination  of  Ores  and  Other 
Useful  Minerals.  By  Prof.  H.  S.  OSBORN,  LL.  D.  Illustrated  by  66 
Engravings.  Seventh  Edition.  Revised  and  Enlarged.  379  pages, 

I2mo.     (March,  1907) $1.50 

DSBORN— A  Practical  Manual  of  Minerals,  Mines  and  Min- 
ing: 

Comprising  the  Physical  Properties,  Geologic  Positions,  Local  Occur- 
rence and  Associations  of  the  Useful  Minerals;  their  Methods  of 
Chemical  Analysis  and  Assay ;  together  with  Various  Systems  of  Ex- 
cavating and  Timbering,  Brick  and  Masonry  Work,  during  Driving, 
Lining,  Bracing  and  other  Operations,  etc.  By  Prof.  H.  S.  OSBORN, 
LL.  D.,  Author  of  "  The  Prospector's  Field- Book  and  Guide."  171 
engravings.  Second  Edition,  revised.  8vo.  .  .  .  £4.50 
OVERMAN.— Th«  Manufacture  of  Steel : 

Containing  the  Practice  and  Principles  of  Working  and  Making  Steel. 
A  Handbook  for  Blacksmiths  and  Workers  in  Steel  and  Iron,  Wagon 
Makers,  Die  Sinkers,  Cutlers,  and  Manufacturers  of  Files  and  Hard- 
ware, of  Steel  and  Iron,  and  for  Men  of  Science  and  Art.  By 
FREDERICK  OVERMAN,  Mining  Engineer,  Author  of  the  "  Manu- 
facture of  Iron,"  etc.  A  new,  enlarged,  and  revised  Edition.  By 
A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  Engineer.  I2mo.  .  .  $1.50 
OVERMAN.— The  Moulder's  and  Founder's  Pocket  Guide  : 
A  Treatise  on  Moulding  and  Founding  in  Green-sand,  Dry-sand,  Loam, 
and  Cement ;  the  Moulding  of  Machine  Frames,  Mill-gear,  Hollow- 
ware,  Ornaments,  Trinkets,  Bells,  and  Statues;  Description  of  Moulds 
for  Iron,  Bronze,  Brass,  and  other  Metals;  Plaster  of  Paris,  Sulphur, 
Wax,  etc. ;  the  Construction  of  Melting  Furnaces,  the  Melting  and 
Founding  of  Metals  ;  the  Composition  of  Alloys  and  their  Nature, 
etc.,  etc.  By  FREDERICK  OVERMAN,  M.  E.  A  new  Edition,  to 
which  is  added  a  Supplement  on  Statuary  and  Ornamental  Moulding, 
Ordnance,  Malleable  Iron  Castings,  etc.  By  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chen> 
ist  and  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  44  engravings.  12010.  .  $2.<X 
PAINTER,  GILDER,  AND  VARNISHER'S  COMPANION. 
Comprising  the  Manufacture  and  Test  of  Pigments,  the  Arts  of  Paint- 
ing,  Graining,  Marbling,  Staining,  Sign- writing,  Varnishing,  Glass- 
staining,  and  Gilding  on  Glass ;  together  with  Coach  Painting  and 
Varnishing,  and  the  Principles  of  the  Harmony  and  Contrast  of 
Colors.  Twenty-seventh  Edition.  'Revised,  Enlarged,  and  in  great 
•part  Rewritten.  By  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT,  Editor  of  "  Varnishes, 
Lacquers,  Printing  Inks  and  Sealing  Waxes."  Illustrated.  395  pp. 

/2mo.  , $l  .50 

PALLETT. — The  Miller's,  Millwright's,  and  Engineer's  Guide. 
By  HENRY  PALLETT.     Illustrated.     i2mo.       .        .        .        $2.00 


22         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

PERCY.— The  Manufacture  of  Russian  Sheet-Iron. 

By  JOHN  PERCY,  M.  D,,  F.  R.  S.     Paper.      .        .        .        25  cts. 

PERKINS. — Gas  and  Ventilation: 

Practical  Treatise  on  Gas  and  Ventilation.    Illustrated.    I2mo.    $1.25 

PERKINS  AND  STOWE.— A  New  Guide  to  the  Sheet-iron 

and  Boiler  Plate  Roller : 

Containing  a  Series  of  Tables  showing  the  Weight  of  Slabs  and  Pile* 
to  Produce  Boiler  .Plates,  and  of  the  Weight  of  Piles  and  the  Sizes  of 
Bars  to  produce  Sheet-iron ;  the  Thickness  of  the  Bar  Gaugo 
in  decimals ;  the  Weight  per  foot,  and  the  Thickness  on  the  Bar  or 
Wire  Gauge  of  the  fractional  parts  of  an  inch ;  the  Weight  per 
sheet,  and  the  Thickness  on  the  Wire  Gauge  of  Sheet-iron  of  various 
dimensions  to  weigh  112  Ibs.  per  bundle;  and  the  conversion  of 
Short  Weight  into  Long  Weight,  and  Long  Weight  into  Short. 

$i-5» 

POSSELT.— Recent  Improvements  in  Textile  Machinery  Re- 

lating  to  Weaving : 

Giving  the  Most  Modern  Points  on  the  Construction  of  all  Kinds 
of  Looms,  Warpers,  Beamers,  Slashers,  Winders,  Spoolers,  Reeds, 
Temples,  Shuttles,  Bobbins,  •  Meddles,  Heddle  Frames,  Pickers, 
Jacquards,  Card  Stampers,  etc.,  etc.  600  illus.  .  .  $3.00 

POSSELT. — Technology  of  Textile  Design: 

The  Most  Complete  Treatise  on  the  Construction  and  Application 
of  Weaves  for  all  Textile  Fabrics  and  the  Analysis  of  Cloth.  By  E. 
A.  Posselt.  1,500  illustrations.  410 $5-OO 

POSSELT.— Textile  Calculations: 

A  Guide  to  Calculations  Relating  to  the  Manufacture  of  all  Kinds 
of  Yarns  and  Fabrics,  the  Analysis  of  Cloth,  Speed,  Power  and  Belt 
Calculations.  By  E.  A.  POSSELT.  Illustrated.  4*0.  .  $2.00 

REGNAULT.— Elements  of  Chemistry: 

By  M.  V.  REGNAULT.  Translated  from  the  French  by  T.  FORREST 
BETTON,  M.  D.,  and  edited,  with  Notes,  by  JAMES  C.  BOOTH,  Melter 
and  Refiner  U.  S.  Mint,  and  WILLIAM  L.  FABER,  Metallurgist  and 
Mining  Engineer.  Illustrated  by  nearly  700  wood-engravings.  Com- 
prising nearly  1,500  pages.  In  two  volumes,  8vo.,  cloth  .  #6.00 
RICHARDS.— Aluminium  : 

Its  History,  Occurrence,  Properties,  Metallurgy  and  Applications, 
including  its  Alloys.  By  JOSEPH  W.  RICHARDS,  A.  C.,  Chemist  and 
Practical  Metallurgist,  Member  of  the  Deutsche  Chemische  Gesell- 
schaft.  Illusr.  Third  edition,  enlarged  and  revised  (1895)  .  $6.00 
felFFAULT,  VERGNAUD,  and  TOUSSAI.NT.— A  Practical 

Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Colors  for  Painting : 
Comprising  the  Origin,  Definition,  and  Classification  of  Colors;  the 
Treatment  of  the  Raw  Materials ;  the  best  Formulae  and  the  Newest 
Processes  for  the  Preparation  of  every  description  of  Pigment,  and 
the  Necessary  Apparatus  and  Directions  for  its  Use;  Dryers;  th» 
Testing.  Application,  and  Qualities  of  Paints,  etc.,  etc.  By  MM. 
RIFFAULT,  VERGNAUD,  and  TOUSSAINT.  Revised  and  Edited  by  M 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


F.  MALEPEYRE.   Tran*lated  from  the  French,  by  A.  A. 

Chemist  and  Engineer.     Illustrated  by  Eighty  engravings.     In  one 

vol.,  8vo.,  659  pages          .......        t$-°° 

ROPER.  —  Catechism  for  Steam  Engineers  and  Electricians: 
Including   the    Construction  and  Management   of   Steam    Engines, 
Steam  Boilers  and  Electric  Plants.     By  STEPHEN  ROPER.     Twenty- 
first  edition,  rewritten  and   greatly  enlarged  by  E.  R.  KELLER  and 
C.  W.  PIKE.     365  pages.     Illustrations.      i8mo.,  tucks,  gilt.     $2.00 

ROPER.  —  Engineer's  Handy  Book: 

Containing  Facts,  Formulae,  Tables  and  Questions  on  Power,  its 
Generation,  Transmission  and  Measurement;  Heat,  Fuel,  and  Steam; 
The  Steam  Boiler  and  Accessories  ;  Steam  Engines  and  their  Parts  ; 
Steam  Engine  Indicator;  Gas  and  Gasoline  Engines;  Materials; 
their  Properties  and  Strength  ;  Together  with  a  Discussion  of  the  Fun- 
damental Experiments  in  Electricity,  and  an  Explanation  of  Dynamos, 
Motors,  Batteries,  etc.,  and  Rules  for  Calculating  Sizes  of  Wires.  By 
STEPHEN  ROPER.  I5ih  edition.  Revised  and  enlarged  by  E.  R. 
KELLER,  M.  E.  and  C.  W;  PIKE,  B.  S.  (1899),  with  numerous  illus- 
trations. Pocket-book  form.  Leather  .....  $3.50 

ROPER.  —  Hand-Book  of  Land  and  Marine  Engines  : 
Including  the  Modelling,  Construction,   Running,  and  Management 
of  Lane5  and  Marine  Engines  and  Boilers.     With  ilJustrations.     By 
STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.     Sixth  edition.     i2mo.,U'cks,  gilt  edge. 

$3-5° 
ROPER.—  Hand-Book  of  the  Locomotive  : 

Including  the  Construction  of  Engines  and  Boilers,  and  the  Construc- 
tion, Management,  and  Running  of  Locomotives.  By  STEPHEN 
ROPER.  Eleventh  edition.  i8mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge  .  $2.50 

ROPER.  —  Hand-Book  of  Modern  Steam  Fire-Engines. 
With  illustrations.     By  STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.     Fourth  edition, 
I2mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge       .         .         .         .         .         .    •  $3-50 

ROPER.  —  Questions  and  Answers  for  Engineers. 
This  little  book  contains  all  the  Questions  that  Engineers  will  be 
asked  when  undergoing  an  Examination  for  the  purpose  of  procuring 
Licenses,  and  they  are  so  plain  that  any  Engineer  or  Fireman  of  or 
dinary  intelligence  may  commit  them  to  memory  in  a  short  time..  By 
STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.  Third  edition  .  .  .  $2.00 

ROPER.—  Use  and  Abuse  of  the  Steam  Boiler. 

By  STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.  Eighth  edition,  with  illustrations. 
l8mo.,  tucks,  gilt  edge  .......  $2.00 

ROSE.—  The  Complete  Practical  Machinist  : 

Embracing  Lathe  Work,  Vise  Work,  Drills  and  Drilling,  Taps  and 
Dies,  Hardening  and  Tempering,  the  Making  and  Use  of  Tools 
Tool  Grinding,  Marking  out  Work,  Machine  Tools,  etc.  By  JOSHUA 
ROSE.  395  Engravings.  Nineteenth  Edition,  greatly  Enlarged  with 
New  and  Valuable  Matter.  I2mo.,  504  pages.  .  .  $2.50 

ROSE.—  Mechanical  Drawing  Self-Taught  : 

Comprising  Instructions  in  the  Selection  and  Preparation  of  Drawing 
Tnstruments,  Elementary  Instruction  in  Practical  Mechanical  Draw- 


24         HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

ing,  together  with  Examples  in  Simple  Geometry  and  Elementary 
Mechanism,  including  Screw  Threads,  Gear  Wheels,  Mechanical 
Motions,  Engines  and  Boilers.  By  JOSHUA  ROSE,  M.  E.  Illustrated 
by  330  engravings.  8vo,  313  pages  ....  $4.00 

ROSE.— The  Slide- Valve  Practically  Explained: 

Embracing  simple  and  complete  Practical  Demonstrations  of  th, 
operation  of  each  element  in  a  Slide-valve  Movement,  and  illustrat- 
ing the  effects  of  Variations  in  their  Proportions  by  examples  care- 
fully  selected  from  the  most  recent  and  successful  practice.  By 
JOSHUA  ROSE,  M.  E.  Illustrated  by  35  engravings  .  $1.00 

ROSS. — The  Blowpipe  in  Chemistry,  Mineralogy  and  Geology: 
Containing  all  Known  Methods  of  Anhydrous  Analysis,  many  Work- 
ing Examples,  and  Instructions  for  Making  Apparatus.  By  LIEUT.- 
COLONEL  W.  A.  Ross,  R.  A.,  F.  G.  S.  With  120  Illustrations. 
I2mo $2.09 

SHAW.— Civil  Architecture : 

Being  a  Complete  Theoretical  and  Practical  System  of  Building,  con- 
taining  the  Fundamental  Principles  of  the  Art.  By  EDWARD  SHAW, 
Architect.  To  which  is  added  a  Treatise  on  Gothic  Architecture,  etc. 
By  THOMAS  W.  SILLOWAY  and  GEORGE  M.  HARDING,  Architects. 
The  whole  illustrated  by  102  quarto  plates  finely  engraved  on  coppen 
Eleventh  edition.  410 J6.oo 

SHUNK.— A  Practical  Treatise  on  Railway  Curves  and  Loca- 
tion, for  Young  Engineers. 
By  W.  F.  SHUNK,  C.  E.    I2mo.    Full  bound  pocket-book  form  $2.a» 

SLATER. — The  Manual  of  Colors  and  Dye  Wares. 
By  J.  W.  SLATER.     i2mo .        $3.00 

SLOAN.— American  Houses : 

A  variety  of  Original  Designs  for  Rural  Buildings.  Illustrated  by 
26  colored  engravings,  with  descriptive  references.  By  SAMUEL 
SLOAN,  Architect.  8vo. .75 

SLOAN. — Homestead  Architecture  : 

Containing  Forty  Designs  for  Villas,  Cottages,  and  Farm-houses,  witb 
Essays  on  Style,  Construction,  Landscape  Gardening,  Furniture,  etc., 
etc.  Illustrated  by  upwards  of  200  engravings.  By  SAMUEL  SLOAN, 
Architect.  8vo $2.50 

SLOANE. — Ho.^e  Experiments  m  Science. 

By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLC<NE,  E.  M.,  A.  M.,  Fh.  D.  Illustrated  by  91 
engravings.  I2mo.  .  .  .  -.  .  .  .  .  $l.oo 

SMEATON.— Builder's  Pockt^Companion : 

v  Containing  the  Elements  of  Building,  Surveying,  and  Architecture ; 
with  Practical  Rules  and  Instructions  corrected  with  the  subject. 

•    By  A.  C:  SMEATON,  Civil  Engineer,  etc.     I2mo. 

SMITH.— A  Manual  of  Political  Economy. 

By  E.  PESHINE  SMITH.  A  New  Edition,  to  which  is  added  a  fuU 
Index.  lamo.  .  $1  2t 


HENRY  CAREY  iiAlRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          23 

SMITH.— Parks  and  Pleasure-Grounds : 

Or  Practical  Notes  oir  Country  Residences,  Villas,  Public  Parks,  and 
Gardens.     By  CHARLES    H.  J.   SMITH,    Landscape    Gardener   and 
Garden  Architect,  etc.,  etc.      121110.  ....         $2.cx* 

SMITH.— The  Dyer's  Instructor: 

Comprising  Practical  Instructions  in  the  Art  of  Dyeing  Silk,  Cotton* 
Wool,   and    Worsted,  and   Woolen   Goods;    containing    nearly   Sort 
Receipts.     To  which  is  added  a  Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Padding;  an(| 
-  the  Printing  of  Silk  Warps,  Skeins,  and   Handkerchiefs,  and  thd 
various  Mordants  and  Colors  for  the  different  styles  of  such  workj 
By  DAVID  SMITH,  Pattern  Dyer.     I2mo.  .         .         .        $1.50! 

SMYTH. — A  Rudimentary  Treatise  on  Coal  and  Coal-Mining. 
By  WARRINGTON  W.  SMYTH.-M.  A.,  F.  R.  G.,  President  R.  G.  S.i 
of  Cornwall.     Fifth  edition,  revised  and  corrected.     With  numer- 
ous illustrations.     I2mo.  ......         $1.40 

SNIVELY.— Tables  for  Systematic  Qualitative  Chemical  Anal. 

ysis. 
By  JOHN  H.  SNIVELY,  Phr.  D.     8vo.         ....         $1.00 

SNIVELY.— The  Elements  of  Systematic  Qualitative  chemical 

Analysis : 

A  Hand-book  for  Beginners.    By  JOHN  H.  SNIVELY,  Phr.  D.    i6mo. 

$2.00 

STOKES.— The  Cabinet-Maker  and  Upholsterer's  Companion  : 
Comprising  the  Art  of  Drawing,  as  applicable  to  Cabinet  Work; 
Veneering,  Inlaying,  and  Buhl- Work;  the  Art  of  Dyeing  and  Stain- 
ing Wood,  Ivory,  Bone,  Tortoise-Shell,  etc.  Directions  for  Lacker- 
ing, Japanning,  and  Vanishing;  to  make  French  Polish,  Glues. 
Cements,  and  Compos-' .^  as;  with  numerous  Receipts,  useful  to  work 
men  generally.  Bv  STOKES.  Illustrated.  A  New  Edition,  with 
an  Appendix  upor  .  /ench  Polishing,  Staining,  Imitating,  Varnishing, 

etc.,  etc.    I2mo $i.2S 

STRENGTH  AND  OTHER  PROPERTIES  OF  METALS; 
Reports  of  Experiments  on  the  Strength  and  other  Properties  of 
Metals  for  Cannon.  With  a  Description  of  the  Machines  for  Testing 
Metals,  and  of  the  Classification  of  Cannon  in  service.  By  Officer? 
of  the  Ordnance  Department,  U.  S.  Army.  By  authority  of  the  Secre- 
tary  of  War.  Illustrated  by  25  large  steel  plates.  Quarto  .  $5.00 
SULLIVAN. — Protection  to  Native  Industry. 
By  Sir  EDWARD  SULLIVAN,  Baronet,  author  of  "  Ten  Chapters  on 

Social  Reforms."      8vo jtl.OO 

SHERRATT.— The  Elements  of  Hand-Railing: 

Simplified  and  Explained  in  Concise  Problems  that  are  Easily  Under- 
stood. The  whole  illustrated  with  Thirty-eight  Accurate  and  Origi- 
nal Plates,  Founded  on  Geometrical  Principles,  and  Showing  how  to 
Make  Rail  Without  Centre  Joints,  Making  Better  Rail  of  the  Same 
Material,  with  Half  the  Labor,  and  Showing  How  to  Lay  Out  Stairs 
of  all  Kinds.  By  R.  J.  SHERRATT.  Folio.  .  .  .  $2.50 


26        HENRY  CAREY  BAIRt?  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

BYME. — Outlines  of  an  Industrial  Science. 
By  DAVID  SYME.     i2mo.          .        .  ...        $2.09 

TABLES      SHOWING     THE     WEIGHT      OF     ROUND, 

SQUARE,  AND  FLAT  BAR  IRON,  STEEL,  ETC., 
By  Measurement.     Cloth  ......  63 

THALLNER.— Tool-Steel : 

A  Concise  Handbook  on  Tool-Steel  in  General.  Its  Treatment  in 
the  Operations  of  Forging,  Annealing,  Hardening,  Tempering,  etc., 
and  the  Appliances  Therefor.  By  OTTO  THALLNER,  Manager  in 
Chief  of  the  Tool-Steel  Works,  Bismarckhiitte,  Germany.  From  the 
German  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  69  engravings. 
194  pages.  8vo.  1902.  .  ...  .  .  $2.00 

TEMPLETON.— The  Practical  Examinator  on  Steam  and  thd 

Steam -Engine: 

With  Instructive  References  relative  thereto,  arranged  for  the  Use  of 
Engineers,  Students,  and  others.  By  WILLIAM  TEMPLETON,  En* 
gineer.  I2mo. |i.QO 

THAUSING.— The  Theory  and  Practice  of  the  Preparation  of 

Malt  and  the  Fabrication  of  Beer: 

With  especial  reference  to  the  Vienna  Process  of  Brewing.  Elab- 
orated from  personal  experience  by  JULIUS  E.  THAUSING,  Professor 
at  the  School  for  Brewers,  and  at  the  Agricultural  Institute,  Modling, 
near  Vienna.  Translated  from  the  German  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 
Thoroughly  and  elaborately  edited,  with  much  American  matter,  and 
according  to  the  latest  and  most  Scientific  Practice,  by  A.  SCHWARZ 
and  DR.  A.  H.  BAUER.  Illustrated  by  140  Engravings.  8vo.,  815 
pages  .  .  .J."...  .  .  .  .  $10.00 

THOMPSON.— Political  Economy.     With  Especial  Reference 

to  the  Industrial  History  of  Nations  : 

By  ROBERT  E.  THOMPSON,  M.  A.,  Professor  of  Social  Science  in  the 
University  of  Pennsylvania.  I2mo.  .  .  .  .  $1.50 

THOMSON.— Freight  Charges  Calculator: 

By  ANDREW  THOMSON,  Freight  Agent.     241110.        .        .        #1.25 

TURNER'S  (THE)  COMPANION: 

Containing  Instructions  in  Concentric,  Elliptic,  and  Eccentric  Turn, 
ing;  also  various  Plates  of  Chucks,  Tools,  and  Instruments;  and 
Directions  for  using  the  Eccentric  Cutter,  Drill,  Vertical  Cutter,  and 
Circular  Rest;  with  Patterns  and  Instructions  for  working  them. 
I2mo $I.oo 

TURNING  :   Specimens  of  Fancy  Turning   Executed  on  the 

Hand  or  Foot- Lathe  : 

With  Geometric,  Oval,  and  Eccentric  Chucks,  and  Elliptical  Cutting 
Frame.  By  an  Amateur.  Illustrated  by  30  exquisite  Phptographs. 
4*0 (Scarce.) 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE.          27 

TAILE.— Galvanized-Iron  Cornice-Worker's  Manual: 
Containing  Instructions   in    Laying  out  the   Different    Mitres,   and 
Making  Patterns  for  all  kinds  of  Plain  and  Circular  Work.     Also, 
Tables  of  Weights,  Areas  and  Circumferences  of  Circles,  and  other 
Matter  calculated  to  Benefit  the  Trade.     By  CHARLES  A.   VAILE. 

Illustrated  by  twenty-one  plates.    410 (Scarce.) 

ILLE.— On  Artificial  Manures  : 

Their  Chemical  Selection  and  Scientific  Application  to  Agriculture. 
A  series  of  Lectures  given  at  the  Experimental  Farm  at  Vincennes, 
during  1867  and  1874-75.  By  M.  GEORGES  VILLE.  Translated  and 
Edited  by  WILLIAM  CROOKES,  F.  R.  S.  Illustrated  by  thirty-one 
engravings.  8vo.,  450  pages  ......  $6.00 

VILLE. — The  School  of  Chemical  Manures  : 
Or,  Elementary  Principles  in  the  Use  of  Fertilizing  Agents.     From 
the  French  of  M.  GEO.  VILLE,  by  A.  A.  FESQUET,  Chemist  and  En- 
gineer.    With  Illustrations.     I2mo.  ....         $1.25 

VOGDES.— The  Architect's  and  Builder's  Pocket -Companion 

and  Price-Book  : 

Consisting  of  a  Shoit  but  Comprehensive  Epitome  of  Decimals,  Duo- 
decimals, Geometry  and  Mensuration ;  with  Tables  of  United  States 
Measures,  Sizes,  Weights,  Strengths,  etc.,  of  Iron,  Wood,  Stone, 
Brick,  Cement  and  Concretes,  Quantities  of  Materials  in  given  Sizes 
and  Dimensions  of  Wood,  Brick  and  Stone;  and  full  and  complete 
Bills  of  Prices  for  Carpenter's  Work  and  Painting ;  also,  Rules  for 
Computing  and  Valuing  Brick  and  Brick  Work,  Stone  Work,  Paint- 
Ing,  Plastering,  with  a  Vocabulary  of  Technical  Terms,  etc.  By 
FRANK  W.  VOGDES,  Architect,  Indianapolis,  Ind.  Enlarged,  revised, 
and  corrected.  In  one  volume,  368  pages,  full-bound,  pocket-book 

form,  gilt  edges #2.00 

Cloth         .  1.59 

VAN  CLEVE.— The  English  and  American  Mechanic: 
Comprising  a  Collection  of  Over  Three  Thousand  Receipts,  Rules, 
and  Tables,  designed  for  the  Use  of  every  Mechanic  and  Manufac- 
turer. By  B.  FRANK  VAN  CLEVE.  Illustrated.   500  pp.  I2mo.  $2.00 

VAN  DER  BURG.— School  of  Painting  for  the  Imitation  of 

Woods  and  Marbles: 

A  Complete,  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Art  and  Craft  of  Graining  and 
Marbling  with  the  Tools  and  Appliances.  36  plates.  Folio,  12  x  20 
inches $6.00 

WAHNSCHAFFE.— A  Guide  to  the  Scientific  Examination 

of  Soils: 

Comprising  Select  Methods  of  Mechanical  and  Chemical  A  lalysk 
and  Physical  Investigation.  Translated  from  the  German  of  Dr.  F. 
WAHNSCHAFFE.  With  additions  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illus- 
trated by  25  engravings.  I2mo.  177  pages  .  .  .  $1.30 

fVALTON.— Coal-Mining  Described  and  Illustrated: 
By  THOMAS  H.  WALTON,  Mining  Engineer.     Illustrated  by  24  Itgf 
and  elaborate  Plates,  after  Actual  Workings  and  Apparatus.     $5.00 


2s          HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 

WARE.— The  Sugar  Beet. 

Including  a  History  of  the  Beet  Sugar  Industry  in  Europe,  Varieties 
of  the  Sugar  Beet,  Examination,  Soils,  Tillage,  Seeds  and  Sowing, 
Yield  and  Cost  of  Cultivation,  Harvesting,  Transportation,  Conserva- 
tion, Feeding  Qualities  of  the  Beet  and  of  the  Pulp,  etc.  By  LEWIJ 
S.  WARE,  C.  E.,  M.  E.  Illustrated  by  ninety  engravings.  8vo. 

$4-<* 
WARN.— The  Sheet-Metal  Worker's  Instructor: 

For  Zinc,  Sheet-Iron,  Copper,  and  Tin- Plate  Workers,  etc.  Contain- 
ing  a  selection  of  Geometrical  Problems ;  also,  Practical  and  Simple 
Rules  for  Describing  the  various  Patterns  required  in  the  different 
branches  of  the  above  Trades.  By  REUBEN  H.  WARN,  Practical 
Tin-Plate  Worker.  To  which  is  added  an  Appendix,  containing 
Instructions  for  Boiler-Making,  Mensuration  of  Surfaces  and  Solids, 
Rules  for  Calculating  the  Weights  of  different  Figures  of  Iron  and 
Steel,  Tables  of  the  Weights  of  Iron,  Steel,  etc.  Illustrated  by  thirty- 
two  Plates  and  thirty-seven  Wood  Engravings.  8vo.  .  $2.50 

WARNER.— New  Theorems,  Tables,  and  Diagrams,  for  tht 

Computation  of  Earth-work : 

Designed  for  the  use  of  Engineers  in  Preliminary  and  Final  Estimates 
of  Students  in  Engineering,  and  of  Contractors  and  other  non-profes- 
sional Computers.  In  two  parts,  with  an  Appendix.  Part  I.  A  Prac- 
tical Treatise ;  Part  II.  A  Theoretical  Treatise,  and  the  Appendix. 
Containing  Notes  to  the  Rules  and  Examples  of  Part  I. ;  Explana 
tions  of  the  Construction  of  Scales,  Tables,  and  Diagrams,  and  > 
Treatise  upon  Equivalent  Square  Bases  and  Equivalent  Level  Heights 
By  JOHN  WARNER,  A.  M.,  Mining  and  Mechanical  Engineer.  Illus- 
r*ated  by  14  Plates.  8vo. $3.00 

WILSON.— Carpentry  and  Joinery  : 

By  JOHN  WILSON,  Lecturer  on. Building  Construction,  Carpentry  and 
Joinery,  etc.,  in  the  Manchester  Technical  School.  Third  Edition, 
with  65  full-page  plates,  in  flexible  cover,  oblong.  .  .  ( Scarce. ) 

WATSON— A  Manual  of  the  Hand-Lathe  : 

Comprising  Concise  Directions  for  Working  Metals  of  all  kinds, 
Ivory,  Bone,  and  Precious  Woods ;  Dyeing,  Coloring,  and  French 
Polishing  ;  Inlaying  by  Veneers,  and  various  methods  practised  to 
produce  Elaborate  work  with  Dispatch,  and  at  Small  Expense.  By 
EGBERT  P.  WATSON,  Author  of  "The  Modern  Practice  of  American 
Machinists  and  Engineers."  Illustrated  by  78  engravings.  $1.50- 

WATSON.— The  Modern    Practice  of  American   Machinists 
and  Engineers  : 

Including  the  Construction,  Application,  and  Use  of  Drills,  Lathe 
Tools,  Cutters  for  Boring  Cylinders,  and  Hollow-work  generally,  with 
the  most  Economical  Speed  for  the  same  ;  the  Results  verified  by 
Actual  Practice  at  the  Lathe,  the  Vise,  and  on  the  floor.  Togethet 


HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S   CATALOGUE.         29 


with  Workshop  Management,  Economy  of  Manufacture,  the  Steam 
Engine,  Boilers,  Gears,  Belting,  etc.,  etc.  By  EGBERT  P.  WATSON. 
Illustrated  by  eighty-six  engravings.  I2mo.  .  .  .  $2.50 

WATT.—  The  Art  of  Soap  Making  : 

A  Practical  Hand-Book  of  the  Manufacture  of  Hard  and  Soft  Soaps, 
Toilet  Soaps,  etc.  Fifth  Edition,  Revised,  to  which  is  added  an 
Appendix  on  Modem  Candle  Making.  By  ALEXANDER  WATT. 
111.  I2mo  ..........  $3.00 

WEATHERLY.—  Treatise  on  the  Art  of  Boiling  Sugar,  Crys- 

tallizing, Lozenge-making,  Comfits,  Gum  Goods, 
And  other  processes  for  Confectionery,  including  Methods  for  Manu- 
facturing every  Description  of  Raw  and  Refined  Sugar  Goods.     A 
New  and  Enlarged  Edition,  with  an  Appendix  on  Cocoa,  Chocolate, 
Chocolate  Confections,  etc.      196  pages,  I2mo.     (1903)      .      $1.50 

WILL.—  Tables  of  Qualitative  Chemical  Analysis  : 

With  an  Introductory  Chapter  on  the  Course  of  Analysis.  By  Pro- 
fessor HEINRICH  WILL,  of  Giessen,  Germany.  Third  American, 
from  the  eleventh  German  edition.  Edited  by  CHARLES  F.  HIMES, 
Ph.  D.,  Professor  of  Natural  Science,  Dickinson  College,  Carlisle, 
Pa.  8vo  ..........  $1.50 

WILLIAMS.—  On  Heat  and  Steam  : 

Embracing  New  Views  of  Vaporization,  Condensation  and  Explo- 
sion. By  CHARLES  WYE  WILLIAMS,  A.  I.  C.  E.  Illustrated.  8vo. 

$2.50 

WILSON.  —  First  Principles  of  Political  Economy: 

With  Reference  to  Statesmanship  and  the  Progress  of  Civilization. 
By  Professor  W.  D.  WILSON,  of  the  Cornell  University.  A  new  and 
revised  edition.  I2mo.  ,......'  $1.50 

WILSON.—  The  Practical  Tool-Maker  and  Designer: 

A  Treatise  upon  the  Designing  of  Tools  and  Fixtures  for  Machine 
Tools  and  Metal  Working  Machinery,  Comprising  Modern  Examples 
of  Machines  with  Fundamental  Designs  for  Tools  for  the  Actual  Pro- 
duction of  the  work;  Together  with  Special  Reference  to  a  Set  of 
Tools  for  Machining  the  Various  Parts  of  a  Bicycle.  Illustrated  by 
189  engravings.  1898.  ......  $2.50 


CONTENTS  :  Introductory.  Chapter  I.  Modern  Tool  Room  and  Equipment. 
I.  Files,  Their  Use  and  Abuse.  III.  Steel  and  Tempering.  IV.  Making  jigs. 
V.  Milling  Machine  Fixtures.  VI.  Tools  and  Fixtures  for  Screw  Machines.  VII. 


Broaching.     VIII.  Punches  and  Dies  for  Cutting  and  Drop  Press.     IX.Toolsfo 


Hollow-Ware.     X.  Embossing:    Metal,  Coin,  and  Stamped  Sheet-Metal  Orna- 
.    XII. 

Pickling,  a 
Cleaning,     XIV.  Tools  for  Draw  Bench.     XV.  Cutting  and  Assembling  Piec 


.         .  ,  , 

ts.     XI.  Drop  Forging.     XII.  Solid  Drawn  Shells  or  Ferrules;  Cupping  or 
Cutting,  and  Drawing  ;  Breaking  Down  Shells.     XIII.  Annealing,  Pickling,  and 


by  Means  of  Ratchet  Dial  Plates  at  One  Operation.     XVI.  The  Header.     XVII. 

Tools  for  Fox  Lathe.     XVIII.  Suggestions  for  a  Set  of  Tools  for  Machining  the 

Various  Parts  of  a  Bicycle.     XIX.  The  Plater's  Dynamo.     XX.  Conclusion— 

With  a  Few.  Random  Ideas.    Appendix.     Index. 
WOODS.  —  Compound  Locomotives: 

By  ARTHUR  TANNATT  WOODS.    Second  edition,  revised  and  enlarged 
by  DAVID  LEONARD  BARNES,  A.  M.,  C.  E.     8vo.     330  pp.     $3.00 


HENRY   CAREY   BAIRD   &   CO.'S  CATALOGUE. 


WOHLER.— A  Hand-Bookof  Mineral  Analysis  : 

By  F.  WOHLER,  Professor  of  Chemistry  in  the  University  of  Gottin- 
gen.  Edited  by  HENRY  B.  NASON,  Professor  of  Chemistry  in  the 
Renssalaer  Polytechnic  Institute,  Troy,  New  York.  Illustrated, 
lamo.  .  $2.50 

WORSSAM.— On  Mechanical  Saws  : 

From  the  Transactions  of  the  Society  of  Engineers,  1869.  By  S.  W. 
WORSSAM,  JR.  Illustrated  by  eighteen  large  plates.  8vo.  $1.50 


RECENT   ADDITIONS. 

BRANNT. — Varnishes,  Lacquers,  Printing  Inks  and  Sealing- 

Waxes : 

Their  Raw  Materials  and  their  Manufacture,  to  which  is  added  the 
Art  of  Varnishing  and  Lacquering,  including  the  Preparation  of  Put- 
ties and  of  Stains  for  Wood,  Ivory,  Bone,  Horn,  and  Leather.  By 
WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  39  Engravings,  338  pages. 
I2mo $3.00 

BRANNT — The  Practical  Scourer  and  Garment  Dyer: 

Comprising  Dry  or  Chemical  Cleaning;  the  Art  of  Removing  Stains^ 
Fine  Washing ;  Bleaching  and  Dyeing  of  Straw  Hats,  Gloves,  and 
Feathers  of  all  kinds;  Dyeing  of  Worn  Clothes  of  all  fabrics,  in- 
cluding Mixed  Goods,  by  One  Dip ;  and  the  Manufacture  of  Soaps 
and  Fluids  for  Cleansing  Purposes.  Edited  by  WILLIAM  T.  BRANNT, 
Editor  of  "The  Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book."  Illustrated. 
203  pages.  12010. $2.00 

BRANNT.— Petroleum . 

its  History,  Origin,  Occurrence,  Production,  Physical  and  Chemical 
Constitution,  Technology,  Examination  and  Uses;  Together  with 
the  Occurrence  and  Uses  of  Natural  Gas.  Edited  chiefly  from  the 
German  of  Prof.  Hans  Hoefer  and  Dr.  Alexander  Veith,  by  \VM. 
T.  BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  3  Plates  and  284  Engravings.  743  pp. 
8vo.  #8.50 

BRANNT. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Vine- 
gar and  Acetates,  Cider,  and  Fruit- Wines  : 
Preservation  of  Fruits  and  Vegetables  by  Canning  and  Evaporation ; 
Preparation  of  Fruit-Butters,  Jellies,  Marmalades,  Catchups,  Pickles, 
Mustards,  etc.  Edited  from  various  sources.  By  WILLIAM  T. 
BRANNT.  Illustrated  by  79  Engravings.  479  pp.  8vo.  $5.00 

BRANNT.— The  Metal  Worker's    Handy-Book   of  Receipts 

and  Processes : 

Being  a  Collection  of  Chemical  Formulas  and  Practical  Manipula- 
tions for  the  working  of  all  Metals ;  including  the  Decoration  and 
Beautifying  of  Articles  Manufactured  therefrom,  as  well  as  their 
Preservation.  Edited  from  various  sources.  By  WiLLIAM  T. 
BRANNT.  Illustrated.  lamo.  $2.50 


HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  CO.'S  CATA^atttfE.         31 

DEITE. — A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Manufacture  of  Per- 
fumery : 

Comprising  directions  for  making  all  Kinds  of  Perfumes,  Sachet 
Powders,  Fumigating  Materials,  Dentifrices,  Cosmetics,  etc.,  with  a 
full  account  of  the  Volatile  Oils,  Balsams,  Resins,  and  other  Natural 
and  Artificial  Perfume-substances,  including  the  Manufacture  of 
Fruit  Ethers,  and  tests  of  their  purity.  By  Dr.  C.  DEITE.  assisted 
by  L.  BORCHERT,  F.  EICHBAUM,  E.  KUGLER,  H.  TOEFFNER,  and 
other  experts.  From  the  German,  by  WM.  T.  BRANNT.  28  Eng'rav. 
ings.  358  pages.  8vo. $3.00 

EDWARDS. — American   Marine  Engineer,    Theoretical   anu 

Practical : 

With  Examples  of  the  latest  and  most  approved  American  Practice. 
By  EMORY  EDWARDS.  85  illustrations.  lamo.  .  .  $2.50 

EDWARDS. — 900    Examination   Questions  and   Answers: 

For  Engineers  and  Firemen  (Land  and  Marine)  who  desire  to  ob- 
tain a  United  States  Government  or  State  License.  Pocket-book 
form,  gilt  edge #l-5<> 

FLEMMING.— Practical  Tanning: 

A  Handbook  of  Modern  Processes,  Receipts,  and  Suggestions  for  the 
Treatment  of  Hides,  Skins,  and  Pelts  of  Every  Description.  By 
Lewis  A.  Flamming.  American  Tanner.  472pp.  8vo.  (1903)  $4.00. 

POSSELT. — The  Jacquard  Machine  Analysed  and  Explained: 
With  an  Appendix  on  the  Preparation  of  Jacquard  Cards,  and 
Practical  Hints  to  Learners  of  Jacquard  Designing.  By  E.  A. 
POSSELT.  With  230  illustrations  and  numerous  diagrams.  127  pp. 
4to #3.00 

POSSELT. — Recent   Improvements    in   Textile    Machinery, 

Part  III : 

Processes  .Required  for  Converting  Wool,  Cotton,  Silk,  from  Fibre 
to  Finished  Fabric,  Covering  both  Woven  and  Knit  Goods  ;  Con- 
struction of  the  most  Modern  Improvements  in  Preparatory  Machin- 
ery, Carding,  Combing,  Drawing,  and  Spinning  Machinery,  Winding, 
Warping,  Slashing  Machinery  Looms,  Machinery  for  Knit  Goods, 
Dye  Stuffs,  Chemicals,  Soaps,  Latest  Improved  Accessories  Relat- 
ing to  Construction  and  Equipment  of  Modern  Textile  Manufactur- 
ing Plants.  By  E.  A.  POSSELT.  Completel-  Illustrated.  4to. 

#7-5° 

RICH.— Artistic  Horse-Shoeing: 

A  Practical  and  Scientific  Treatise,  giving  Improved  Methods  of 
Shoeing,  with  Special  Directions  for  Shaping  Shoes  to  Cure  Different 
Diseases  of  the  Foot,  and  for  the  Correction  of  Faulty  Action  in 
Trotters.  By  GEOK.GK  E.  RICH.  62  Illustration*.  153  pages- 


32       HENRY  CAREY  BAIRD  &  OCX'S  CATALOGUE. 

RICHARDSON. -Practical  Blacksmithing : 
A  Collection  of  Articles  Contributed  at  Different  Times  by  Skilled 
Workmen  to  the  columns  of  "  The  Blacksmith  and  Wheelwright," 
and  Covering  nearly  the  Whole  Range  of  Blacksmithing,  from  the 
Simplest  Job  of  Work  to  some  of  the  Most  Complex  Forgings. 
Compiled  and  Edited  by  M.  T.  RICHARDSON. 

Vol.1.  210  Illustrations.  224  pages.  I2mo.  .  .  $1.00 
Vol.  II.  230  Illustrations.  262  pages.  I2mo.  .  .  jfi.oo 
Vol.  III.  390  Illustrations.  307  pages.  I2mo.  .  .  $1.00 
Vol.  IV.  226  Illustrations.  276  pages.  I2mo.  .  .  |i.oo 

RICHARDSON.'— The  Practical  Horseshoer: 
Being  a  Collection  of  Articles  on  Horseshoeing  in  all  its  Branches 
which  have  appeared  from  time  to  time  in  the  columns  of  '•  1  tie 
Blacksmith  and  Wheelwright,"  etc.     Compiled  and  edited  by  M.  T. 
RICHARDSON.     1 74  illustrations.      .        .        .        .        .        jfi.oo 

ROPER. — Instructions    and   Suggestions    for   Engineers   and 

Firemen : 
By  STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.     i8mo.     Morocco        .        $2.00 

ROPER.— The  Steam  Boiler:  Its  Care  and  Management: 
By  STEPHEN  ROPER,  Engineer.     I2mo.,  tuck,  gilt  edges.        $2.00 

ROPER. — The  Young  Engineer's  Own  Book: 

Containing  an  Explanation  of  the  Principle  and  Theories  on  which 
the  Steam  Engine  as  a  Prime  Mover  is  Based.  By  STEPHEN  ROPER. 
Engineer.  1 60  illustrations,  363  pages.  i8mo.,  tuck  .  $2.50 

ROSE. — Modern  Steam- Engines: 

An  Elementary  Treatise  upon  the  Steam-Engine,  written  in  Plain 
language ;  for  Use  in  the  Workshop  as  well  as  in  the  Drawing  Office. 
Giving  Full  Explanation  j  of  the  Construction  of  Modern  Steam. 
Engines :  Including  Diagrams  showing  their  Actual  operation.  To- 
gether  with  Complete  but  Simple  Explanations  of  the  operations  of 
Various  Kinds  of  Valves,  Valve  Motions,  and  Link  Motions,  etc., 
thereby  Enabling  the  Ordinary  Engineer  to  clearly  Understand  the 
Principles  Involved  in  their  Construction  and  Use,  and  to  Plot  out 
their  Movements  upon  the  Drawing  Board.  By  JOSHUA  ROSE.  M.  E. 
Illustrated  by  422  engravings.  Revised.  358  pp.  .  56.00 

ROSE.— Steam  Boilers: 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  Boiler  Construction  and  Examination,  for  the 
Use  of  Practical  Boiler  Makers,  Boiler  Users,  and  Inspectors;  and 
embracing  in  plain  figures  all  the  calculations  necessary  in  Designing 
or  Classifying  Steam  Boilers.  By  JOSHUA  ROSE,  M.  E.  Illustrated 
by  73  engravings.  250  pages.  8vo $2.^0 

6CHRIBER. — The  Complete  Carriage  and  Wagon  Painter: 
A  Concise  Compendium  of  the  Art  of  Painting  Carriages,  Wagers, 
and  Sleighs,  embracing  Full  Directions  in  all  the  Various  Branches, 
including  Lettering,  Scrolling,  Ornamenting,  Striping,  Varnishing, 
and  Coloring,  with  numerous  Recipes  for  Mixing  Colon.  73  Illus- 
trations. 177  pp.  I2mo 


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